This collaborative space allows users to contribute additional information, tips, and insights to enhance the original deal post. Feel free to share your knowledge and help fellow shoppers make informed decisions.
The spec summaries on Amazon are usually just scraped from the product description; often very poorly/inaccurately. (The top line specs list this as a 0.1pA @ 1V plug!) It's always a good idea to read through the product details or just go to the mfg page to get accurate info.
This is an OLD plug design, circa 2015, and uses a proprietary app/ecosystem. They're physically larger than most newer plugs, and don't have the backing of a larger app ecosystem like TP Link, Tuya, etc, but they are 15A rated, and are based around the ESP8266 MCU, so you should be able to reflash to Tasmota or ESPHome[blakadder.com], if that's your thing.
Unless you're going to reflash, or don't care at all about integrating into the rest of your smarthome ecosystem, I'd look for something else. If you are going to reflash, this will work fine, but is a bit bulky by modern standards (and will most likely block both receptacles unless you use a short extension cord like this[amazon.com]).
Last edited by Horace February 4, 2023 at 09:58 PM.
It's a shitty design, both physically (blocks second port on the power outlet) and in their app "experience" but it's rock stable in comparison to other cheap plugs like Feit. If used in a bedroom then the LEDs are annoyingly bright, too.
If it's 15 amps, then it's 1875 watts, so why the 1000 watt limit? Am I missing something?
My point exactly. 15A rating should have higher wattage. Perhaps the 15A rating in the max load for only a few seconds rather than a sustained load. I have had 1000W/1200W switches work erratically and dying out on kettles (my lack of knowledge earlier on the wattage of kettle I was using -- I just assumed it was 1000W instead what turned out to be the case in reality -- it was 1500W). I replaced the low-power rated kettle switch (great for having hot water ready in the morning when you wake up) with a 1800W, 15A rating switch and it has been working flawlessly.
1
Like
Helpful
Funny
Not helpful
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
If it's 15 amps, then it's 1875 watts, so why the 1000 watt limit? Am I missing something?
Quote
from Dhinchak
:
My point exactly. 15A rating should have higher wattage. Perhaps the 15A rating in the max load for only a few seconds rather than a sustained load. I have had 1000W/1200W switches work erratically and dying out on kettles (my lack of knowledge earlier on the wattage of kettle I was using -- I just assumed it was 1000W instead what turned out to be the case in reality -- it was 1500W). I replaced the low-power rated kettle switch (great for having hot water ready in the morning when you wake up) with a 1800W, 15A rating switch and it has been working flawlessly.
Read the actual product ratings buried within the product description, not the incorrect Amazon bullet points. I mean, in various sections of the page, they list an operating current and voltage of "1 Picoamps" and "1 Volts", the upper and lower temperature ratings BOTH at "1 Kelvin", and the Wattage as "1000".
15A resistive. That's a full 15A rating, using a 15A relay.
Tungsten/incandescent bulbs have a positive temperature coefficient and a high inrush current; hence the 1000W derating that only applies to those applications. Most IoT mfgs aren't going to go through the trouble of breaking down application specific limitations, and just provide the amperage rating from the relay and PCB.
Last edited by Horace February 6, 2023 at 03:44 PM.
Like
Helpful
Funny
Not helpful
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!
15 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
My comment should read, "The reviewer who said it stopped working with iOS 16 edited the review to say it is now working with iOS 16."
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
The spec summaries on Amazon are usually just scraped from the product description; often very poorly/inaccurately. (The top line specs list this as a 0.1pA @ 1V plug!) It's always a good idea to read through the product details or just go to the mfg page to get accurate info.
This is an OLD plug design, circa 2015, and uses a proprietary app/ecosystem. They're physically larger than most newer plugs, and don't have the backing of a larger app ecosystem like TP Link, Tuya, etc, but they are 15A rated, and are based around the ESP8266 MCU, so you should be able to reflash to Tasmota or ESPHome [blakadder.com], if that's your thing.
Unless you're going to reflash, or don't care at all about integrating into the rest of your smarthome ecosystem, I'd look for something else. If you are going to reflash, this will work fine, but is a bit bulky by modern standards (and will most likely block both receptacles unless you use a short extension cord like this [amazon.com]).
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
The actual ratings for this device are:
Tungsten/incandescent bulbs have a positive temperature coefficient and a high inrush current; hence the 1000W derating that only applies to those applications. Most IoT mfgs aren't going to go through the trouble of breaking down application specific limitations, and just provide the amperage rating from the relay and PCB.
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!