REI has
SRAM PG 1070 10-speed Bike Cassette (11-36 T) on sale for
$21.93.
Shipping is free for REI members, otherwise choose free store pickup where stock permits.
Thanks to Staff Member
CE_Carebear for finding this deal.
Note: Availability for free store pick up may vary by location.
Product Details:
- PowerGlide II technology optimizes performance through tooth profile and shift ramp design for quick and positive index shifting
- Forged 7000-series alloy lock ring and heat-treated steel sprocket provide exceptional durability
- Semi-spidered design is light, strong and efficient
- Weighs 210 grams
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Some other deals:
Shimano 105 5700 11-25 10 speed cassette $25 [rei.com]
KMC X10SL Silver 10 speed chain $24 [rei.com]
KMC X10SL Gold 10 speed chain $27 [rei.com]
My gravel bike is 11-42T btw, and my MTBs are 10-51T...although I punish myself on my SS "stuck" at 21 or 23T.
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I am just a recreational rider and I can't justify getting both a gravel and road bike. I would guess that I would do 80-90% on road for non-mountain biking and use my XC bike on anything resembling mountain biking or probably gravel roads as well. Maybe I just answered my own question.
I know gravel bikes are relatively new to the bike industry, but are they basically designed primarily for gravel roads?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Important note on the gearing though - depending on your typical speed and elevation profile, you may need a larger chainring up front to avoid spinning out. Some gravel frames will limit you on chainring clearance, so keep an eye out for that.
The days of 100+ psi are behind us, unless your weight requires it. https://silca.cc/pages/sppc-form
Recommend searching Google - this question gets asked and answered quite a bit by reputable sources.
Also, I've got a medium build for my frame, and your calculator puts me at 108 PSI on 25mm tires.
For those on the fence l, I hear SDRAM Vinyl is making a combeack
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With the spare wheels, as long as the cassette has the same # of gears, you shouldn't need to do any derailleur adjustments, and you can put smaller gears for the road wheel/tire set (usually you can go faster on roads).
I have never owned a dedicated road bike, I have a mid 2000's Gary Fisher hardtail with V-brakes that I wore the original rims out on (popping spokes left and right) that I upgraded with some sunlite wheels with XTR hubs a few years ago, still rides like new despite probably 4 or 5k+ miles (only a small portion of that gritty off-road/mud) on it (original cassettes, chain, etc.).
With the spare wheels, as long as the cassette has the same # of gears, you shouldn't need to do any derailleur adjustments, and you can put smaller gears for the road wheel/tire set (usually you can go faster on roads).
I have never owned a dedicated road bike, I have a mid 2000's Gary Fisher hardtail with V-brakes that I wore the original rims out on (popping spokes left and right) that I upgraded with some sunlite wheels with XTR hubs a few years ago, still rides like new despite probably 4 or 5k+ miles (only a small portion of that gritty off-road/mud) on it (original cassettes, chain, etc.).
Important note on the gearing though - depending on your typical speed and elevation profile, you may need a larger chainring up front to avoid spinning out. Some gravel frames will limit you on chainring clearance, so keep an eye out for that.
The days of 100+ psi are behind us, unless your weight requires it. https://silca.cc/pages/sppc-form
Recommend searching Google - this question gets asked and answered quite a bit by reputable sources.
https://www.costco.com/.product.4...ea
Thanks!
Unless you have a friction shifter, each up or down on the shifter translates to a specific distance the derailleur moves. If they don't match, you'll miss and/or be between gears. You can set it up to hit top and bottom, maybe also next to one of them, but in between will be a nightmare.
Also, I've got a medium build for my frame, and your calculator puts me at 108 PSI on 25mm tires.
I had as low as 18 on my 650c and 23 on my other roads, but 25 hits about right.
Unless you have a friction shifter, each up or down on the shifter translates to a specific distance the derailleur moves. If they don't match, you'll miss and/or be between gears. You can set it up to hit top and bottom, maybe also next to one of them, but in between will be a nightmare.
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I had as low as 18 on my 650c and 23 on my other roads, but 25 hits about right.