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SRAM PG 1070 10-speed Bike Cassette (11-36 T) Expired

$21.95

$88.00

+ Free Store Pickup

+25 Deal Score

11,145 Views 55 Comments

REI has SRAM PG 1070 10-speed Bike Cassette (11-36 T) on sale for $21.93. Shipping is free for REI members, otherwise choose free store pickup where stock permits.

Thanks to Staff Member CE_Carebear for finding this deal.

Note: Availability for free store pick up may vary by location.

Product Details:

PowerGlide II technology optimizes performance through tooth profile and shift ramp design for quick and positive index shifting
Forged 7000-series alloy lock ring and heat-treated steel sprocket provide exceptional durability
Semi-spidered design is light, strong and efficient
Weighs 210 grams

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Original Post

Written by Edited April 8, 2023 at 01:41 PM by

Mid-Top Teer Sram Cassette in price unseen before! If you need a 10 speed, mid range cassette for your bike, this is it.

https://www.rei.com/product/75103...d-cassette

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55 Comments

$21.95

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Good price, but 11-36 (i.e., typical mtb gearing) only. Also, I'm only sharing my own experience here, but SRAM cassettes and chains just don't shift as smoothly as Shimano and KMC respectively.

Some other deals:
Shimano 105 5700 11-25 10 speed cassette $25 [rei.com]

KMC X10SL Silver 10 speed chain $24 [rei.com]

KMC X10SL Gold 10 speed chain $27 [rei.com]

Cough cough, it is "gravel" gearing in the 2020s, thank you 😉

My gravel bike is 11-42T btw, and my MTBs are 10-51T...although I punish myself on my SS "stuck" at 21 or 23T.

Falqon

Joined Jun 2004

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Falqon

04-09-2023 at 11:15 AM.

Quote from LaughinGass

I can tell a big difference between 80 psi and 100. One pedal stroke and I will coast farther at higher pressure. I'm not sure who "they" is, but no way would I run 25 psi on a street tire. I can't help but feel like you're either trolling, or weigh 50 lbs.

That's a great opinion, with no science to back it up.

https://www.roadbikerider.com/the...-heine-d1/

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Selman

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Selman

04-09-2023 at 11:47 AM.

Quote from LaughinGass

Does the derailleur matter at all? If the cassette is the same width, wouldn't it have the same end-to-end travel, and the only thing you need to change is the shifter itself?

It may or may not. On a nine speed the largest cog usually goes up from a 32T on lower speeds to a 34T. On a 10 speed, it usually goes up to a 36T. To verify compatibility, you have to look at the specs of your current derailleur to see the largest supported cog size.

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LaughinGass

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LaughinGass

04-09-2023 at 11:55 AM.

Quote from Falqon

That's a great opinion, with no science to back it up.

https://www.roadbikerider.com/the...-heine-d1/

It seems people don't understand the scientific method. A url to an article that has exactly one contradictory graph, and a bunch of generalizations without any actual data or a description of test methodology isn't exactly scientific.

Scientific method requires that results can be reproduced independently. I have tested how far I can coast on the same bike with different pressures, and higher pressures win hands down. Sorry, those are the facts for this non pro who isn't trying to sell you anything. I don't run tubeless, and I don't have an ultralight cf bike.

I also don't run the pressure over about 100 psi because it results in more flats and ripped sidewalls.

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LaughinGass

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LaughinGass

04-09-2023 at 11:57 AM.

Quote from Selman

That's what I figured. The max and min cog size, possibly...number of cogs...not a factor.

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Selman

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Selman

04-09-2023 at 01:35 PM.

Quote from LaughinGass

That's what I figured. The max and min cog size, possibly...number of cogs...not a factor.

Correct. The only other thing I've noticed is that the higher end components made of alloy or carbon fiber sometimes have stiffer springs. They give a little better shift feel since they rip the derailleur around a little more firmly.

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Selman

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Selman

04-09-2023 at 01:37 PM.

Quote from LaughinGass

More inflated tires do have less rolling resistance, so you are right, but it's not worth your time, man. Smoke a fatty and spray a hose on the kids in the yard.

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Dimitris

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Dimitris

04-09-2023 at 03:38 PM.

You can often mix-match Rear Deraileurs (RDs) "of lesser speeds" with Shifters, given that the two components have the same pulling ratio, i.e. one index click on the 11s Shifter needs to correlate to the "Step" between the cogs in a 11s cassette. This can only happen if the pull ration between the shifter and the RD is the same, otherwise you "lose" a % of the step on every sprocket, with some becoming unusable. Most modern mechanical RDs are all "dumb & linear", and it is indeed the shifter that does most of the work. This is why I am often perplexed that people upgrade their RDs to fancier ones, but neglect the shifter. At least with MTBs that is, where a trigger shifter is like $35-50. Hydraulic "Briefters" (brake/shifter combos) on drop-bar bikes are a completely different story $-wise. But cassettes themselves are standardized, at least spacing-wise, much like most chains are, i.e. you can run this 10 speed Sram Cassette with a Microshift Advent X RD + Shifter, but don't try to mix advent X RD or shifter with Shimano or Sram RD & Shifter (there are Microshift shifters with Shimano pull ratios, but go for those to use with a Shimano RD).
Gravel bikes are similar to endurance/touring bikes in geo, i.e. more upright, less twitchy than road race bikes. The lines are "blurred" as modern gravel bikes try to be more aero, and modern endurance bikes ontop of being aero, start getting wide tire compatible frames. (i.e. first "UCI gravel world-cup" races are won on "road bikes" with 35mm tires (w/e maxed the frame), not "gravel bikes", which tells you that #1 real good riders can stretch what a bike can do lots with their "superhuman" skills, and #2, UCI gravel course was too easy, because same riders fail to do as well on more rugged bikes on these hellish 100-200mi races in the Midwest US. Long story short, unless you want the sporty & twitchy feel all the time, a gravel or touring bike is probably a more comfortable commuter than a road race bike, and a good bit faster than a MTB.
Tires have to balance multiple things: mainly rolling resistance, traction & comfort.
It is "middleschool" physics to understand that typically rolling resistance & traction compete each other, i.e. traction is resistance/friction and low rolling resistance is...the oposite.
Aiming for the absolute lowest rolling resistance is stupid if it compromises your traction @ corners, or when the course gets rougher and looser. Wanna keep riding @ 100 PSI or think that since 23mm tires have lesser rolling resistance have to be the way to go? Cool. Let the "amateurs" win road races with tubeless 28-30mm tires @ 60psi. Tubeless? too much trouble? Sure, not for you, you do you Beau...others said the same about latex tubes that lose pressure overnight or "silly" aero bikes and aero body suits etc.

Fun to right about 100 PSI the day Paris Roubaix 2023 is raced

Guess everyone is optimizing their rides for velodromes and don't care for what the peasants run in the fields and cobble roads. You eat cake and do you Beau.

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Last edited by Dimitris April 9, 2023 at 03:48 PM.

reactionary

Joined Jul 2007

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reactionary

04-09-2023 at 05:41 PM.

Quote from LaughinGass

Like I said, besides the shifter...why would one need to change the derailleur?

Pull ratio differs at the shifter and the derailleur.

Quote from LaughinGass

"They" = Bikeradar, Schwalbe, to name a couple.
18 and 23 mm tires are going away in favor of 25 mm.
Underinflating a tire isn't the same as running a wider tire at its proper inflation pressure.
I'm a 225 lb climber, so I'm fully aware of what underinflation does to rolling resistance.

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LaughinGass

Joined Oct 2016

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LaughinGass

04-09-2023 at 05:45 PM.

Quote from reactionary

Pull ratio differs at the shifter and the derailleur.

"They" = Bikeradar, Schwalbe, to name a couple.
18 and 23 mm tires are going away in favor of 25 mm.
Underinflating a tire isn't the same as running a wider tire at its proper inflation pressure.
I'm a 225 lb climber, so I'm fully aware of what underinflation does to rolling resistance.

Why wouldn't you buy a shifter that's compatible with your derailleur?

And are you telling me you run 25 psi on 25mm tires on the road, at 225lbs + bike + gear....? Your posts don't add up.

Like the other guy said, I'm gonna go spray a hose on the kids in the yard...have fun replacing your derailleur for no reason at all.

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Last edited by LaughinGass April 9, 2023 at 05:49 PM.

reactionary

Joined Jul 2007

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reactionary

04-09-2023 at 05:54 PM.

Quote from Dimitris

You can often mix-match Rear Deraileurs (RDs) "of lesser speeds" with Shifters, given that the two components have the same pulling ratio, i.e. one index click on the 11s Shifter needs to correlate to the "Step" between the cogs in a 11s cassette. This can only happen if the pull ration between the shifter and the RD is the same, otherwise you "lose" a % of the step on every sprocket, with some becoming unusable. Most modern mechanical RDs are all "dumb & linear", and it is indeed the shifter that does most of the work. This is why I am often perplexed that people upgrade their RDs to fancier ones, but neglect the shifter. At least with MTBs that is, where a trigger shifter is like $35-50. Hydraulic "Briefters" (brake/shifter combos) on drop-bar bikes are a completely different story $-wise. But cassettes themselves are standardized, at least spacing-wise, much like most chains are, i.e. you can run this 10 speed Sram Cassette with a Microshift Advent X RD + Shifter, but don't try to mix advent X RD or shifter with Shimano or Sram RD & Shifter (there are Microshift shifters with Shimano pull ratios, but go for those to use with a Shimano RD).
Gravel bikes are similar to endurance/touring bikes in geo, i.e. more upright, less twitchy than road race bikes. The lines are "blurred" as modern gravel bikes try to be more aero, and modern endurance bikes ontop of being aero, start getting wide tire compatible frames. (i.e. first "UCI gravel world-cup" races are won on "road bikes" with 35mm tires (w/e maxed the frame), not "gravel bikes", which tells you that #1 real good riders can stretch what a bike can do lots with their "superhuman" skills, and #2, UCI gravel course was too easy, because same riders fail to do as well on more rugged bikes on these hellish 100-200mi races in the Midwest US. Long story short, unless you want the sporty & twitchy feel all the time, a gravel or touring bike is probably a more comfortable commuter than a road race bike, and a good bit faster than a MTB.
Tires have to balance multiple things: mainly rolling resistance, traction & comfort.
It is "middleschool" physics to understand that typically rolling resistance & traction compete each other, i.e. traction is resistance/friction and low rolling resistance is...the oposite.
Aiming for the absolute lowest rolling resistance is stupid if it compromises your traction @ corners, or when the course gets rougher and looser. Wanna keep riding @ 100 PSI or think that since 23mm tires have lesser rolling resistance have to be the way to go? Cool. Let the "amateurs" win road races with tubeless 28-30mm tires @ 60psi. Tubeless? too much trouble? Sure, not for you, you do you Beau...others said the same about latex tubes that lose pressure overnight or "silly" aero bikes and aero body suits etc.

Fun to right about 100 PSI the day Paris Roubaix 2023 is raced https://static.slickdealscdn.com/ima...2/applause.gif

Guess everyone is optimizing their rides for velodromes and don't care for what the peasants run in the fields and cobble roads. You eat cake and do you Beau.

Good post.

One of the "Shimano secrets" is the 11s MTB derailleurs having the same pull ratio as the 10s. Because the cage pivot point is moved, it opens up for bigger gears, without having to play b-screw games. 10s used to stop at 36, but went to 46 with the "new" 10s derailleurs. (which are the same as 11s, some even marked as for both) 1x10 with 34 front and 42 rear is more than enough for me right now. Maybe I'll look at 28 and 12s 52 when I turn 60.