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There is great discussion about heat pumps and DIY installation in the FAQ of the r/heatpumps community on reddit[reddit.com].
In most states, you do not need to be a licensed HVAC contractor to install one of these systems and can still do it "on the books" by pulling an Owner-Builder permit. For example in California: https://www.cslb.ca.gov/consumers...rview.aspx
R-410A is being phased out and R-32 is the primary replacement, so this system being on R-32 is not necessarily a bad thing. That said, most HVAC systems being sold in the US today are still R-410A so you might have some more challenges locating refrigerant and technicians willing to work with you. Generally, you need to have a dedicated set of tools for each refrigerant type.
All heat pump systems have a factory charge that corresponds to a certain line length. You only need to add more refrigerant if you have longer lines than what the factory charge is good for. I reviewed the documentation and was not able to find this information, but it should be printed on the label on the side of the unit.
This system is listed on neither the NEEP Air Source Heat Pump[neep.org] or AHRI Certification[ahridirectory.org] directory, meaning that its performance has not been validated by a third party source. This could mean that the efficiency is very poor, but it might be fine. However, Costway's website says that the unit has AHRI certification, so either they are lying or there is certification under whatever brand they are buying these units from and white labeling and they didn't bother resubmitting the certification under their own brand.
Here's the instruction manual if you don't have a Costway account yet: https://cdn1.costway.com/PDF/inst...-12WHA.pdf
If you live in a cold climate (below ~5F in the winter), you are going to want something that uses vapor injection technology[youtube.com]. Typically these systems are branded as "hyper heat" or "extreme heat" and work quite well in low temperatures.
Feel free to DM me if you have any heat pump questions, happy to help out!
Been running this one for almost exactly one year now. Did the install myself, just bought the cheap vaccum pump and gauge set on amazon and everything went well enough. Did not cut back lineset or re-flare, and did not use sealant on the connection (I would now, but didn't know about it at the time) and it has remained functional. I am at the point now where after getting near continuous use, that I feel ive at least gotten my monies worth out of it, and hopefully work even a while longer.
A lot of nay sayers nearly had me convinced that it would fail after 2 months and that it was a waste of time and money, but I think if you are reasonably intelligent when installing it and treat it as a semi-disposable unit, you can also be happy with it.
Only complaint operating it is that the auto function is basically useless. It will remain cooling 100% of the time and I manually stop it when I realize the room is more than 10 degrees cooler than the setpoint. I think I expected it to cycle on and off to hold a temp like a central AC, but it just runs the fan at a slower speed... which happens to be enough to still over-cool the room.
Most AC companies do not want to install a mini split unit that you did not purchase from them. That was my experience at least. I reached out to 6-8 companies and only two responded. One straight up declined to do the job and the other wanted to charge me $90 just to come look at it. They did tell me over the phone that it would cost about $1000 to $1500. I would either install it yourself or find a company that's willing to do it before you purchase this AC unit. Just my two cents.
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In most states, you do not need to be a licensed HVAC contractor to install one of these systems and can still do it "on the books" by pulling an Owner-Builder permit. For example in California: https://www.cslb.ca.gov/consumers...rview.aspx
R-410A is being phased out and R-32 is the primary replacement, so this system being on R-32 is not necessarily a bad thing. That said, most HVAC systems being sold in the US today are still R-410A so you might have some more challenges locating refrigerant and technicians willing to work with you. Generally, you need to have a dedicated set of tools for each refrigerant type.
All heat pump systems have a factory charge that corresponds to a certain line length. You only need to add more refrigerant if you have longer lines than what the factory charge is good for. I reviewed the documentation and was not able to find this information, but it should be printed on the label on the side of the unit.
This system is listed on neither the NEEP Air Source Heat Pump[neep.org] or AHRI Certification[ahridirectory.org] directory, meaning that its performance has not been validated by a third party source. This could mean that the efficiency is very poor, but it might be fine. However, Costway's website says that the unit has AHRI certification, so either they are lying or there is certification under whatever brand they are buying these units from and white labeling and they didn't bother resubmitting the certification under their own brand.
If you live in a cold climate (below ~5F in the winter), you are going to want something that uses vapor injection technology[youtube.com]. Typically these systems are branded as "hyper heat" or "extreme heat" and work quite well in low temperatures.
Feel free to DM me if you have any heat pump questions, happy to help out!
Question about these type units (not specifically this model): Is it possible to run two of the indoor parts off one of the outdoor parts, and how close must the indoor and outdoor parts be to each other? Is fifteen feet along a wall and then five feet buried feasible?
Question about these type units (not specifically this model): Is it possible to run two of the indoor parts off one of the outdoor parts, and how close must the indoor and outdoor parts be to each other? Is fifteen feet along a wall and then five feet buried feasible?
Also have the same question. How many cassettes can I run off one condenser? Can I just tap my central air condenser. I only have 25% of house w central air. I personally think the unit is oversized. Would like to tap 2 small ceiling cassettes into central air condenser
it needs to be vacuumed. have installed the 18k model.
Thank you. Since you did this already can i add a plug pigtail to the 12K or 18K and plug it into a dedicated 15A or 20 A outdoor outlet with in use cover?
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Thank you. Since you did this already can i add a plug pigtail to the 12K or 18K and plug it into a dedicated 15A or 20 A outdoor outlet with in use cover?
As long as the voltage is correct the unit won't care if it's hard wired or plugged into an outlet.
Question about these type units (not specifically this model): Is it possible to run two of the indoor parts off one of the outdoor parts, and how close must the indoor and outdoor parts be to each other? Is fifteen feet along a wall and then five feet buried feasible?
Multiple head units on one condenser is possible for units designed for that. They do make them, I think ive seen up to 5 inside units for one outdoor.
You wouldn't want to bury the lineset. The compressors on these are pre charged for the included line set, which on this unit is 13 feet. If you need a longer run, you would need a longer line set and likely also additional refrigerant for this specific model. I've seen some with longer linesets. If you're trying to keep it DIY and need longer than 15ish feet. Mr.Cool has their pre charged line sets in varying lengths up to 50 feet. Not to plug them but they're the only brand I am aware of that does this.
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I bought the 18k last time it was on sale. And I have installed the pioneer ones from home depot in the past. I would say quality is somewhat lower than the pioneer. The insulation feels cheaper, did not come with vibration feet pads, lineset only 13ft vs 15, and does not have a cover for the refrigerant ports. The remote also had less features. However those pioneer units are over $1000 even when on sale now so for the price I think I would buy this again unless the pioneer goes back to the 800 ish price I paid for it.
oh and no cradle for the remote. that was really annoying...
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Been running this one for almost exactly one year now. Did the install myself, just bought the cheap vaccum pump and gauge set on amazon and everything went well enough. Did not cut back lineset or re-flare, and did not use sealant on the connection (I would now, but didn't know about it at the time) and it has remained functional. I am at the point now where after getting near continuous use, that I feel ive at least gotten my monies worth out of it, and hopefully work even a while longer.
A lot of nay sayers nearly had me convinced that it would fail after 2 months and that it was a waste of time and money, but I think if you are reasonably intelligent when installing it and treat it as a semi-disposable unit, you can also be happy with it.
Only complaint operating it is that the auto function is basically useless. It will remain cooling 100% of the time and I manually stop it when I realize the room is more than 10 degrees cooler than the setpoint. I think I expected it to cycle on and off to hold a temp like a central AC, but it just runs the fan at a slower speed... which happens to be enough to still over-cool the room.
I ran a 1400W heater to load test the outlet I had in mind and it didn't trip after 30 min. Just a 15A. It runs 2 other lights on it. I think this split is only 1000W when it heats up
Last edited by kekeke May 29, 2023 at 01:17 PM.
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There is great discussion about heat pumps and DIY installation in the FAQ of the r/heatpumps community on reddit [reddit.com].
In most states, you do not need to be a licensed HVAC contractor to install one of these systems and can still do it "on the books" by pulling an Owner-Builder permit. For example in California: https://www.cslb.ca.gov/consumers...rvi
R-410A is being phased out and R-32 is the primary replacement, so this system being on R-32 is not necessarily a bad thing. That said, most HVAC systems being sold in the US today are still R-410A so you might have some more challenges locating refrigerant and technicians willing to work with you. Generally, you need to have a dedicated set of tools for each refrigerant type.
All heat pump systems have a factory charge that corresponds to a certain line length. You only need to add more refrigerant if you have longer lines than what the factory charge is good for. I reviewed the documentation and was not able to find this information, but it should be printed on the label on the side of the unit.
This system is listed on neither the NEEP Air Source Heat Pump [neep.org] or AHRI Certification [ahridirectory.org] directory, meaning that its performance has not been validated by a third party source. This could mean that the efficiency is very poor, but it might be fine. However, Costway's website says that the unit has AHRI certification, so either they are lying or there is certification under whatever brand they are buying these units from and white labeling and they didn't bother resubmitting the certification under their own brand.
Here's the instruction manual if you don't have a Costway account yet: https://cdn1.costway.co
If you live in a cold climate (below ~5F in the winter), you are going to want something that uses vapor injection technology [youtube.com]. Typically these systems are branded as "hyper heat" or "extreme heat" and work quite well in low temperatures.
Feel free to DM me if you have any heat pump questions, happy to help out!
A lot of nay sayers nearly had me convinced that it would fail after 2 months and that it was a waste of time and money, but I think if you are reasonably intelligent when installing it and treat it as a semi-disposable unit, you can also be happy with it.
Only complaint operating it is that the auto function is basically useless. It will remain cooling 100% of the time and I manually stop it when I realize the room is more than 10 degrees cooler than the setpoint. I think I expected it to cycle on and off to hold a temp like a central AC, but it just runs the fan at a slower speed... which happens to be enough to still over-cool the room.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank helios-shreyas
Feel free to DM me if you have any heat pump questions, happy to help out!
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You wouldn't want to bury the lineset. The compressors on these are pre charged for the included line set, which on this unit is 13 feet. If you need a longer run, you would need a longer line set and likely also additional refrigerant for this specific model. I've seen some with longer linesets. If you're trying to keep it DIY and need longer than 15ish feet. Mr.Cool has their pre charged line sets in varying lengths up to 50 feet. Not to plug them but they're the only brand I am aware of that does this.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank koidy
oh and no cradle for the remote. that was really annoying...
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank AlecK5151
A lot of nay sayers nearly had me convinced that it would fail after 2 months and that it was a waste of time and money, but I think if you are reasonably intelligent when installing it and treat it as a semi-disposable unit, you can also be happy with it.
Only complaint operating it is that the auto function is basically useless. It will remain cooling 100% of the time and I manually stop it when I realize the room is more than 10 degrees cooler than the setpoint. I think I expected it to cycle on and off to hold a temp like a central AC, but it just runs the fan at a slower speed... which happens to be enough to still over-cool the room.
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Join The Conversation
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