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The 5600X I bought is part of a PC build meant to be an Xmas gift for my nephews that I wanted to put together ahead of time while it was still in stock at a decent price. Don't feel bad a/b pay $100 more for your 5600X. Imagine buying a 5800X for $325 in 2021 on discount from a promotion only for it to sell today in 2023 at $180-$190 while on sale: welcome to my life, lol. I don't lose sleep over it; as technology gets older, it eventually gets replaced by something newer and better and the point of diminishing returns occurs, forcing it to be sold at a "bargain" which sucks for early adopters, but is a boon for "slickdealers". It's the nature of the beast which I've learned to accept.
This is actually a pretty good deal. I recently bought a 5600X for $130 during Prime Day and an AsRock mini-ITX motherboard for around $90 if that means anything, and you shouldn't have any issues w/ the quality of Asus AM4 motherboards.
The flashback BIOS feature allows you to update/flash the BIOS w/o accessing the BIOS or OS. You simply copy the BIOS file to the root of a USB flash drive and connect it to the designated flashback port on the motherboard and press the flashback button and you're off to the races.
1. Is it recommended even if you are using it as a side PC to be used less frequently. PC not to be used for high end games.
2. Is this CPU only good if you overlock or it;'s a good value even when not overclocking?
1. Yeah, it will go from 0 to hot as hell in no time. I thought I just put on the thermal paste wrong with the stock cooler, I reapplied 3 times and still bad temps. $20 for a new cooler and you are set.
2.Mine is stock, it performs well. You can oc and it will work great, but it does a very good job using it as is. At $130 you probably wont find a better cpu. Not a bad idea to put some decent ram in your pc as well if you haven't already.
This has been my experience with a stock clocked 5600X in an average gaming style case. Were temperatures fine? It never throttled so I guess so. Was it loud? Only because I was told that it was, so I listened for it while gaming and with the game audio turned off.
1. Yeah, it will go from 0 to hot as hell in no time. I thought I just put on the thermal paste wrong with the stock cooler, I reapplied 3 times and still bad temps. $20 for a new cooler and you are set.
2.Mine is stock, it performs well. You can oc and it will work great, but it does a very good job using it as is. At $130 you probably wont find a better cpu. Not a bad idea to put some decent ram in your pc as well if you haven't already.
Ryzen will always "go from 0 to hot as hell in no time" unless you're providing more cooling than it needs. It dynamically scales the clock speed to suit the environment it lives in, and pushing the clock speed up means increasing the power draw, which means more power gets converted to heat. If it isn't sitting near the thermal limit, it has either reached the peak clock speed or the voltage limit.
I seriously doubt your new cooler made a difference in the performance that you would notice without benchmarks.
Keeping a chip under its thermal limits may increase the longevity, but frankly this thing is going to be obsolete before that's a concern, anyway.
If you're below the thermal limits and haven't already, you should enable PBO to squeeze out a little more performance. Unless keeping the fan speed down for noise is your primary concern.
1. Yeah, it will go from 0 to hot as hell in no time. I thought I just put on the thermal paste wrong with the stock cooler, I reapplied 3 times and still bad temps. $20 for a new cooler and you are set.
2.Mine is stock, it performs well. You can oc and it will work great, but it does a very good job using it as is. At $130 you probably wont find a better cpu. Not a bad idea to put some decent ram in your pc as well if you haven't already.
Quote
from CummingsSM
:
1. The included cooler is fine.
2. Manually overclocking Ryzen is a waste of time for almost everyone.
Ryzen CPUs are designed to "overclock" themselves within reason . .
This is a great value as-is. No need to buy an expensive cooler for it.
Look up "PBO" if you want to push the CPU harder. Or else just install it and forget about because you probably wouldn't notice the difference anyway.
Thanks, will just install the way it is and see. I see the fan comes with thermal paste installed as well so no need to buy extra.
I will be installing B550 UD AC motherboard as well to go with it.
Will add some 32gb ram (3200, 16gb x 2) for around $50.
i won't be doing any games or heavy realtime work. Some image/video editing work occasionally as this is an emergency/backup system for me.
Thanks, will just install the way it is and see. I see the fan comes with thermal paste installed as well so no need to buy extra.
I will be installing B550 UD AC motherboard as well to go with it.
Will add some 32gb ram (3200, 16gb x 2) for around $50.
i won't be doing any games or heavy realtime work. Some image/video editing work occasionally as this is an emergency/backup system for me.
The other poster is wrong, the 5600x is notorious for replicating hell like temps with the stock cooler. You will know really quick if you need a new cooler. You may be ok with higher temps, I feel uncomfortable playing any random game and hitting 90-93, For an extra $20, issued solved. Hopefully it runs cooler for you out of the box.
Good call on the ram, I have the same setup. My mobo is pretty shit, thankfully 32 gigs at 3200mhz is the sweet spot for the 5600x. Its quick as hell all things considered.
If you do decide to game, its pretty solid granted you have a 8gig + gpu. I can runalmost anything natively at 1440p80+ with a 7600..
Ryzen will always "go from 0 to hot as hell in no time" unless you're providing more cooling than it needs. It dynamically scales the clock speed to suit the environment it lives in, and pushing the clock speed up means increasing the power draw, which means more power gets converted to heat. If it isn't sitting near the thermal limit, it has either reached the peak clock speed or the voltage limit.
I seriously doubt your new cooler made a difference in the performance that you would notice without benchmarks.
Keeping a chip under its thermal limits may increase the longevity, but frankly this thing is going to be obsolete before that's a concern, anyway.
If you're below the thermal limits and haven't already, you should enable PBO to squeeze out a little more performance. Unless keeping the fan speed down for noise is your primary concern.
I am not talking about oc'ing the card or running 8 games at 1 time, under normal circumstances it will get far too hot with the stock cooler. AMD cheaped out on wraith stealth cooler. Its garbage. Donor it to somebody still using a 2600 or something, it is not suitable for the card.
I am not talking about oc'ing the card or running 8 games at 1 time, under normal circumstances it will get far too hot with the stock cooler. AMD cheaped out on wraith stealth cooler. Its garbage. Donor it to somebody still using a 2600 or something, it is not suitable for the card.
You don't know what you're taking about. That's literally the way the chip is designed.
Vermeer's thermal limit is 95C, so why do you think it sat at 90-93C? Because it intentionally seeks that limit. The fact that this makes you "uncomfortable" is not meaningful in any way. And yes, technically that means the cooling is the bottleneck preventing it from boosting higher, but it's unlikely to make a noticeable difference in your performance.
You didn't "solve" any "issue", you just gave it a little more thermal headroom, and since you didn't even bother to dispute it, I'll go ahead and assume I was correct and it made no actual noticeable difference in the performance of the chip.
Stock cooler is fine, especially for the use case being described here.
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I've had no issues using USB 3 drives on AM4/5 boards for the last few years, either for flash updates or for OS installation. (Well, except for those damn Samsung drives that are only the size of the USB connector ... those overheat and will literally fall apart because they melt the glue holding themselves together. Had to remove the remnants of one with needle nose pliers.)
The likelihood that this board won't already have a Vermeer-compatible BIOS and that you'd need to flash it before it will recognize the CPU is so close to zero its not even worth talking about. Just slap the CPU in and you'll be fine. I promise.
The thermal paste can in fact rip your CPU out of the socket, but a) there's very little danger in this (it won't harm the CPU pins as long as you don't do something else to them) and b) it means you're doing it wrong. Twist the cooler to "break" the tension before pulling it away from the motherboard. I've ripped a few AM4 CPUs out of the socket this way, and they're all fine. And for the record, I don't think the thermal paste is really the culprit as most of them were installed with Artic MX5, not the AMD-supplied paste. I just twist the coolers off now to avoid this, because it's a pain in the ass to get the CPU unglued from the cooler if it comes out this way.
Obsessing about the effectiveness of thermal paste, to the point of worrying about "cloth residue" left behind from cleaning it is utterly useless. Unless you're trying to break world records with LN2, just use some paper towels and leave worrying about thermal paste impurities to the neckbeards.
Not gonna touch the RGB stuff, cause I don't care and just turn it all off. SSD preference is mostly just that. Any decent PCIe4 drive is going to be pretty competitive and their failure rates are a tiny fraction of old mechanical drives. For my money, I'd go with the bigger drives (2TB minimum as far as I'm concerned these days).
Magnetic screwdrivers are completely fine as long as you're not using magnetic storage (i.e., old spindle hard drives). There's no problem using magnetic stuff around your motherboard.
thanks for your reply .. and apologies yes I'm known for my long wall of text posts if that's what you meant by "that's quite a post "
I'll be the first one to admit that I'm just repeating what I've been told on forums by those wiser/more experienced than me as far as PC building and my own internet research so obviously I'm going to defer to someone who has more hands on experience than me that goes without saying ...
I will say that back when I knew even less about PC's than I do now , I did try the warm up the CPU then twist it technique based on youtube videos I've seen online... huge mistake I bent the pins and wrecked the CPU completely it really sucked .. so don't be like me way back several years ago and twist the heck out of the CPU cooler .. I've heard that you can use floss to help separate the CPU cooler from the CPU to be on the safe side.
I don't think I explained myself properly as far as the arctic thermal paste vs the pre-applied paste that comes on the amd ryzen coolers ... I think you mentioned in your post most of them were installed with arctic MX5 not the AMD supplied paste as far as you being able to remove the CPU fan without any difficulties? I was trying to say something like that except I've been told the arctic MX4 thermal paste is fine too - you might have a different experience and feel that the MX5 is the way to go?
I bought almost this exact deals last year for about the same price. Tho I think it was the non x version of the 5600
I kept the CPU, sold the Mobo on eBay for $75 or $85 bucks (a lot less after fees) , and bought an x570 steel legend off Amazon warehouse for just under $100. I also sold my old Mobo afterwards (z270-a-pro gaming), which made the upgrade costs minimal.
Went from a. I7-7700 (I actually sold that as well and I think the upgrade paid for itself or gained me money) to upgrade to newer architecture and couldn't be happier with my 5600 for budget gaming. It pairs great with my very meta rtx 3060. (No CPU bottlenecks)
The chip runs fine as far as temps. I'm using thermal grizzly's kryonaut and a vetroo v5 CPU cooler, and all is fine. Tho I am using an atx Mobo, but I think even an matx build should user a tower cooler especially amd
Last edited by AquaBelieve4659 September 25, 2023 at 01:37 PM.
AM4 boards, even B450, aren't cheap at the moment, so this is a very solid deal. This is $10 cheaper than Micro Center's current 5600X + B450M DS3H Wifi which is an even more stripped-down board but does have WiFi. This along with anything from a 6600 XT to a 6800 XT would make for a great entry-to-upper-midrange build. With the lower-end GPUs you could get by with a 3600 or 5500, but here you have the CPU headroom to upgrade those and also a bit of a CPU upgrade path (to a 5800X3D) as well.
My son wants to build his first PC (12 yrs old) and we are looking at this setup. Just to confirm this MOBO doesn't come with wifi? What should I buy to have wifi or do most gaming setups use ethernet for internet connection?
My son wants to build his first PC (12 yrs old) and we are looking at this setup. Just to confirm this MOBO doesn't come with wifi? What should I buy to have wifi or do most gaming setups use ethernet for internet connection?
Yes, you will want to buy a PCIE wifi/bluetooth card to add that capability. Unless the PC is situated near your router or a data port where you can plug it in with a cable.
Yes, you will want to buy a PCIE wifi/bluetooth card to add that capability. Unless the PC is situated near your router or a data port where you can plug it in with a cable.
thank you! any recommendations?
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This is a great cheap pci e wifi card with good capability.
Also has Bluetooth for gamepad / ear buds pairing.
The install is super easy, just plug it in, (including Bluetooth cable to USB header on Mobo) and then install the network drivers. I think windows update can find generic drivers, or refer to product page for some kind of link to compatible drivers.
Last edited by AquaBelieve4659 September 25, 2023 at 01:45 PM.
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2. Is this CPU only good if you overlock or it;'s a good value even when not overclocking?
2.Mine is stock, it performs well. You can oc and it will work great, but it does a very good job using it as is. At $130 you probably wont find a better cpu. Not a bad idea to put some decent ram in your pc as well if you haven't already.
2.Mine is stock, it performs well. You can oc and it will work great, but it does a very good job using it as is. At $130 you probably wont find a better cpu. Not a bad idea to put some decent ram in your pc as well if you haven't already.
I seriously doubt your new cooler made a difference in the performance that you would notice without benchmarks.
Keeping a chip under its thermal limits may increase the longevity, but frankly this thing is going to be obsolete before that's a concern, anyway.
If you're below the thermal limits and haven't already, you should enable PBO to squeeze out a little more performance. Unless keeping the fan speed down for noise is your primary concern.
2.Mine is stock, it performs well. You can oc and it will work great, but it does a very good job using it as is. At $130 you probably wont find a better cpu. Not a bad idea to put some decent ram in your pc as well if you haven't already.
2. Manually overclocking Ryzen is a waste of time for almost everyone.
Ryzen CPUs are designed to "overclock" themselves within reason . .
This is a great value as-is. No need to buy an expensive cooler for it.
Look up "PBO" if you want to push the CPU harder. Or else just install it and forget about because you probably wouldn't notice the difference anyway.
I will be installing B550 UD AC motherboard as well to go with it.
Will add some 32gb ram (3200, 16gb x 2) for around $50.
i won't be doing any games or heavy realtime work. Some image/video editing work occasionally as this is an emergency/backup system for me.
I will be installing B550 UD AC motherboard as well to go with it.
Will add some 32gb ram (3200, 16gb x 2) for around $50.
i won't be doing any games or heavy realtime work. Some image/video editing work occasionally as this is an emergency/backup system for me.
Good call on the ram, I have the same setup. My mobo is pretty shit, thankfully 32 gigs at 3200mhz is the sweet spot for the 5600x. Its quick as hell all things considered.
If you do decide to game, its pretty solid granted you have a 8gig + gpu. I can runalmost anything natively at 1440p80+ with a 7600..
I seriously doubt your new cooler made a difference in the performance that you would notice without benchmarks.
Keeping a chip under its thermal limits may increase the longevity, but frankly this thing is going to be obsolete before that's a concern, anyway.
If you're below the thermal limits and haven't already, you should enable PBO to squeeze out a little more performance. Unless keeping the fan speed down for noise is your primary concern.
Vermeer's thermal limit is 95C, so why do you think it sat at 90-93C? Because it intentionally seeks that limit. The fact that this makes you "uncomfortable" is not meaningful in any way. And yes, technically that means the cooling is the bottleneck preventing it from boosting higher, but it's unlikely to make a noticeable difference in your performance.
You didn't "solve" any "issue", you just gave it a little more thermal headroom, and since you didn't even bother to dispute it, I'll go ahead and assume I was correct and it made no actual noticeable difference in the performance of the chip.
Stock cooler is fine, especially for the use case being described here.
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I've had no issues using USB 3 drives on AM4/5 boards for the last few years, either for flash updates or for OS installation. (Well, except for those damn Samsung drives that are only the size of the USB connector ... those overheat and will literally fall apart because they melt the glue holding themselves together. Had to remove the remnants of one with needle nose pliers.)
The likelihood that this board won't already have a Vermeer-compatible BIOS and that you'd need to flash it before it will recognize the CPU is so close to zero its not even worth talking about. Just slap the CPU in and you'll be fine. I promise.
The thermal paste can in fact rip your CPU out of the socket, but a) there's very little danger in this (it won't harm the CPU pins as long as you don't do something else to them) and b) it means you're doing it wrong. Twist the cooler to "break" the tension before pulling it away from the motherboard. I've ripped a few AM4 CPUs out of the socket this way, and they're all fine. And for the record, I don't think the thermal paste is really the culprit as most of them were installed with Artic MX5, not the AMD-supplied paste. I just twist the coolers off now to avoid this, because it's a pain in the ass to get the CPU unglued from the cooler if it comes out this way.
Obsessing about the effectiveness of thermal paste, to the point of worrying about "cloth residue" left behind from cleaning it is utterly useless. Unless you're trying to break world records with LN2, just use some paper towels and leave worrying about thermal paste impurities to the neckbeards.
Not gonna touch the RGB stuff, cause I don't care and just turn it all off. SSD preference is mostly just that. Any decent PCIe4 drive is going to be pretty competitive and their failure rates are a tiny fraction of old mechanical drives. For my money, I'd go with the bigger drives (2TB minimum as far as I'm concerned these days).
Magnetic screwdrivers are completely fine as long as you're not using magnetic storage (i.e., old spindle hard drives). There's no problem using magnetic stuff around your motherboard.
I'll be the first one to admit that I'm just repeating what I've been told on forums by those wiser/more experienced than me as far as PC building and my own internet research so obviously I'm going to defer to someone who has more hands on experience than me that goes without saying
I will say that back when I knew even less about PC's than I do now
I don't think I explained myself properly as far as the arctic thermal paste vs the pre-applied paste that comes on the amd ryzen coolers ... I think you mentioned in your post most of them were installed with arctic MX5 not the AMD supplied paste as far as you being able to remove the CPU fan without any difficulties? I was trying to say something like that except I've been told the arctic MX4 thermal paste is fine too - you might have a different experience and feel that the MX5 is the way to go?
I kept the CPU, sold the Mobo on eBay for $75 or $85 bucks (a lot less after fees) , and bought an x570 steel legend off Amazon warehouse for just under $100. I also sold my old Mobo afterwards (z270-a-pro gaming), which made the upgrade costs minimal.
Went from a. I7-7700 (I actually sold that as well and I think the upgrade paid for itself or gained me money) to upgrade to newer architecture and couldn't be happier with my 5600 for budget gaming. It pairs great with my very meta rtx 3060. (No CPU bottlenecks)
The chip runs fine as far as temps. I'm using thermal grizzly's kryonaut and a vetroo v5 CPU cooler, and all is fine. Tho I am using an atx Mobo, but I think even an matx build should user a tower cooler especially amd
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This is a great cheap pci e wifi card with good capability.
Also has Bluetooth for gamepad / ear buds pairing.
The install is super easy, just plug it in, (including Bluetooth cable to USB header on Mobo) and then install the network drivers. I think windows update can find generic drivers, or refer to product page for some kind of link to compatible drivers.
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