Daiwa Fuego LT Spinning Reel (2500D, 2500DXH, or 3000D) Expired

Unfortunately, there's about 1000 rods on the market for every type reel... so there's no obvious answer that said, here's some thoughts that might help you:

Rod Length: How far are you casting? If you're fishing from a bridge you probably aren't casting that far as the fish will probably be hanging near the bridge. If you're using live bait you probably don't want to sling them 200 yards. If you have a boat and "bait and wait" it's the same thing... all these you're probably looking at a 6' or 6.5' rod. -- But the more modern way of fishing is to 'cover water.' Use an artificial lure and fan cast in every direction as far as possible. You want to literally cover as much water as possible. Now you're talking 7' or better 7.5' (warning 7.5' foot rods have ceiling fan and car door magnets built into them.) Surf casting? Get that 10 footer out.

Rod Action / Weight: You'll see on every rod, "Medium weight, Fast Action" etc. Ignore it. One company's medium is another company's heavy. Instead look at the lure weight and then the line rating. Example: a 2500 reel is best with 10-12lb braid. (which again, today breaks at 20+ lbs) If the pole says 30-40lb line you're waaaaay off.

So take what you're throwing... In my part of the world, that's usually a 1/4oz to 1/2 jig head. Find a rod that's rated for that size lure. Now look at line rating. Match it to your line.

A 'fast' rod bends more at the tip, a slow rod bends lower down. A Heavy rod is going to be harder to bend. If you're fishing from a boat near docks, you want a stiffer rod to pull the fish away from the structure quickly so he can't cut you off... . If you're in the marsh you want to lighten up so you can feel every hit. If they run a bit, that's ok.

*In general* if you've done the above you have a well matched rod, reel, line and lure. You're miles ahead of most folks.

But what's the difference between a $20 rod and a $200 rod?
Largely the blank material and the guides. Fuji makes $10 guide sets and they make $1000 guide sets. They are all good. If you see Fuji guides you're probably ok.

The rod blank itself is more complicated. From fiberglass to high modulus graphite and everywhere in between. In general the higher the cost the better can feel the bite. HOWEVER high dollar blanks are more fragile. That's an engineering tradeoff. So if you spend $200+ on a rod, baby that puppy.

OK all that said, I'd suggest a TFO Pro S 7 or 7.5' medium or medium light, fast action rod. It's probably $100ish but money well spent.