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We've pulled LOTS of boxes of this stuff for client jobs, it's top grade stuff and an absolute joy to work with compared to most of the other junk cable on the market. Tens of thousands of feet later we've never had a single problem. We verify every run with a $12k Fluke Versiv analyzer and even the longest runs that pass near known RFI sources like light ballasts still pass full spec testing with flying colors. You're either destroying the cable while pulling over sharp bends or your terminations are bad, whatever it is that's happening it isn't this cable.
The only caution I have is that the higher quality jacket and core insert make this cable quite thick and that can be a problem when replacing older thinner cable in existing undersized conduit.
Agreed ... typically if it was installed as part of new construction, it would have been stapled to ensure it doesn't get in the way of the drywall being hung.
If it was added after-the-fact, I'd be extremely shocked if it were stapled in the walls, but it is always possible it's being secured somewhere in the attic with those staples. If it's going into an actual electrical box (and not just an open frame low-voltage box), it'll likely have some form of restraint on it as well, even if it's just the tabs on the box ... builders are strange and if they have an excess supply of one material, they'll just keep using it for any situation it'll work in even if it's not the cheapest (space on the trucks are worth $ too and being able to minimize different stock has a value on its own as well).
Also lifeatragedy -- If your existing wiring was cat5 being used for phone lines, there is also a strong possibility that they're all daisy-chained together unless the house was intended to have multiple phone lines from the start (it was the intention to just be able to pick up any phone in the house and have access to the phone line afterall). Even if they weren't tied together, there is still the possibility that they were run together and feed in and out of boxes, which may cause you problems if you're COMPLETELY trying to avoid going in the attic.
If you just want to minimize the hard work by using the old as a pull string though and do it in chunks while you're in the attic, it would likely make your job significantly easier.
On that note: also run a pull string with this new cable to make it easier to add an extra cable later ... nothing worse than wanting to punch your past self for saving $5 in material that's going to cost current you hours of time!
Not a good idea. All ethernet cable has a specification for bend radius not to be exceeded, usually 4x diameter or about the size of a quarter and there's no way you can control that while pulling blindly trying to avoid getting in the attic. We typically go above and beyond that and try not to exceed the bend radius of a baseball if at all possible.
My suggestion would be to attach some stronger pull string (Home Depot, Lowes, etc) to the existing cable and pull up. Then attach new cable to string and pull back down. Tie a good knot around the existing cable, then cover with electrical tape so there is a smooth gradual sloping transition over the bulge that will be passing through any holes. You can also get cable lube/slime gel to help.
When you're done pulling make sure you discard the first foot or so from the ends as the internal insulator and copper can get damaged from pulling stresses and corner bends. Like electrical cable, don't cut the jacket to where you need to terminate as that can nick wires - instead cut a little to get a grip on the string inside the jacket and use the string to open it up 3-4" inches.
The "trick" for the best terminations on higher spec CAT6+ cable is to terminate as close to end of the factory twists and core insulator as possible. Even a .5" of excess untwisted wiring coming out of the jacket can ruin performance testing at higher speeds. If you're terminating to RJ45 plug/jack, make sure you're using ones rated for the cable type. Don't try to use older CAT5 plugs you have leftover from years past, that kind of corner cutting will de-rate your entire assembly.
Also leave a reasonable service loop of 1-2' or so up tied neatly up top in case you ever need to move it over or re-terminate. I've never been angry at the last guy for leaving too much in a service loop, however I've been angry many times at them (or myself) for not leaving enough.
If you need to tie or staple the cable, make sure not to compress it too tightly, similar to bending too tightly you can ruin the performance at higher speeds because the cable pairs need to be kept at a consistent twist and separation to stay with spec.
Other helpful tools for getting line up and down walls and through attics are a metal "fish tape" and fiberglass pulling rod kit. Harbor Freight sells cheap but decent versions of both.
Seal any gaps in the framing with fire stop while you're there to help stop insects, rodents and control the spread of smoke/fire if the worst happens. It's code in most areas at this point. We (have to) use red intumescent putty on commercial jobs, but it's pretty expensive and can be hard to find. The consumer-oriented canned foam fire stop stuff is cheaper but also works with the typical drawbacks of canned foam products.
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Can CMR be used anywhere in a typical new construction home? Even between basement ceiling and main floor? Are true plenum spaces more applicable to commercial construction?
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Monoprice cables aren't good. I've had numerous failures. I recommend: infinitecables.com
Been using monoprice and cable matters ethernet cable for years and never had an issue. Monoproce USB C cables are a different story. Never heard of infinite cables, but those are good prices.
This CAT6 can't do 2.5 Gbps? Let's say your network is capable of 2.5
Per Wikipedia: "The spectral bandwidth of the signal is reduced accordingly, lowering the requirements on the cabling, so that 2.5GBASE-T and 5GBASE-T can be deployed at a cable length of up to 100 m on Cat 5e or better cables."
Been using monoprice and cable matters ethernet cable for years and never had an issue. Monoproce USB C cables are a different story. Never heard of infinite cables, but those are good prices.
I've had issues, specifically with their ethernet and HDMI cables. Overall I find their cables to be on par with the cheapest cables from China. The ethernet cable is very stiff and flimsy. I don't recommend monoprice. They put themselves in the position of being the go-to cable company, but must have since sold out and gone cheap. Idk why companies feel compelled to do this. It's a vicious cycle.
Could I tie old Cat5 and new Cat6 cables to pull them through outlets without going into the attic? Looking for a strategy to utilize existing wiring for an easier replacement. Worried about hitting a snag somewhere behind walls and it disconnecting from each other. Wondering if anyone here has done this and what tools/method works.
Monoprice cables aren't good. I've had numerous failures. I recommend: infinitecables.com
As a counterpoint, I've run literally miles of Monoprice CAT5e/6 without a single issue. Now dealing with people who can't terminate a connection correctly, that's a different story.
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The only caution I have is that the higher quality jacket and core insert make this cable quite thick and that can be a problem when replacing older thinner cable in existing undersized conduit.
If it was added after-the-fact, I'd be extremely shocked if it were stapled in the walls, but it is always possible it's being secured somewhere in the attic with those staples. If it's going into an actual electrical box (and not just an open frame low-voltage box), it'll likely have some form of restraint on it as well, even if it's just the tabs on the box ... builders are strange and if they have an excess supply of one material, they'll just keep using it for any situation it'll work in even if it's not the cheapest (space on the trucks are worth $ too and being able to minimize different stock has a value on its own as well).
Also lifeatragedy -- If your existing wiring was cat5 being used for phone lines, there is also a strong possibility that they're all daisy-chained together unless the house was intended to have multiple phone lines from the start (it was the intention to just be able to pick up any phone in the house and have access to the phone line afterall). Even if they weren't tied together, there is still the possibility that they were run together and feed in and out of boxes, which may cause you problems if you're COMPLETELY trying to avoid going in the attic.
If you just want to minimize the hard work by using the old as a pull string though and do it in chunks while you're in the attic, it would likely make your job significantly easier.
On that note: also run a pull string with this new cable to make it easier to add an extra cable later ... nothing worse than wanting to punch your past self for saving $5 in material that's going to cost current you hours of time!
My suggestion would be to attach some stronger pull string (Home Depot, Lowes, etc) to the existing cable and pull up. Then attach new cable to string and pull back down. Tie a good knot around the existing cable, then cover with electrical tape so there is a smooth gradual sloping transition over the bulge that will be passing through any holes. You can also get cable lube/slime gel to help.
When you're done pulling make sure you discard the first foot or so from the ends as the internal insulator and copper can get damaged from pulling stresses and corner bends. Like electrical cable, don't cut the jacket to where you need to terminate as that can nick wires - instead cut a little to get a grip on the string inside the jacket and use the string to open it up 3-4" inches.
The "trick" for the best terminations on higher spec CAT6+ cable is to terminate as close to end of the factory twists and core insulator as possible. Even a .5" of excess untwisted wiring coming out of the jacket can ruin performance testing at higher speeds. If you're terminating to RJ45 plug/jack, make sure you're using ones rated for the cable type. Don't try to use older CAT5 plugs you have leftover from years past, that kind of corner cutting will de-rate your entire assembly.
Also leave a reasonable service loop of 1-2' or so up tied neatly up top in case you ever need to move it over or re-terminate. I've never been angry at the last guy for leaving too much in a service loop, however I've been angry many times at them (or myself) for not leaving enough.
If you need to tie or staple the cable, make sure not to compress it too tightly, similar to bending too tightly you can ruin the performance at higher speeds because the cable pairs need to be kept at a consistent twist and separation to stay with spec.
Other helpful tools for getting line up and down walls and through attics are a metal "fish tape" and fiberglass pulling rod kit. Harbor Freight sells cheap but decent versions of both.
Seal any gaps in the framing with fire stop while you're there to help stop insects, rodents and control the spread of smoke/fire if the worst happens. It's code in most areas at this point. We (have to) use red intumescent putty on commercial jobs, but it's pretty expensive and can be hard to find. The consumer-oriented canned foam fire stop stuff is cheaper but also works with the typical drawbacks of canned foam products.
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You can also get it directly from Monoprice for $44.99, apply code NY25 for 25% off $59.99.
https://www.monoprice.c
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