Costco Members: MrCool E Star DIY 12K BTU Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump System
$1250
$1,399.99
& More + Free S/H
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Costco Wholesale has for their Costco Members:MrCool E Star DIY Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump Complete Systems for the prices listed. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member panini for finding this deal.
Note, must login to your Costco account w/ an active membership to view sale/pricing. If you don't have a Costco Warehouse Membership, you can sign-up here.
As someone who just installed a "non" DIY mini split at their house, I want to encourage people to give them a try. I was very nervous about the install, but ultimately it is not that hard as long as you know the procedure (which I understand is the hardest part). In short, you can buy a non-DIY mini split, vacuum pump, and gauges all for less than a single Mr. Cool DIY setup. The video that helped out with the vacuuming part was from "DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse" on YouTube. You hook everything up and then connect the low-pressure blue side of the gauge to the port on the outdoor unit and the yellow hose to the vacuum. Run the vacuum for 15 minutes and let it sit for over an hour to confirm via the gauge there are no leaks. Assuming no leaks, you release a bit of the freon from the unit into the lines and then disconnect the gauge. Once disconnected you open everything up and you're good to go!
I nearly bought the DIY unit so I wouldn't have to mess with a vacuum, but now I'm glad I went that route to save money and learn along the way. You got this!
I bought the 24k a few years ago and I absolutely LOVE IT. It runs quiet and can chill things out in a hurry. I put mine in the living room as it's a centralized location and use my heat thermostat fan to circulate the cool air through the house (single story home).
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
Costco has an awesome price adjustment policy. No need to return or even speak to anyone. Just go to costco(dot)com(slash)PriceAdjustmentView and submit the price it is now vs. what you paid for. They will reimburse you.
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I could use a deal on a multi-zone MrCool unit...I've watched so many videos on MRcool install...seems straight forward. Just needs the electric done by a pro
Around here (Boston area) HVAC contractors will bill about $7K + equipement cost for an install. Absurd for a 1 day job for an experienced hvac person.
I'm reaching out to some people on Thumbtack to see if they can do better
I bought the 24k a few years ago and I absolutely LOVE IT. It runs quiet and can chill things out in a hurry. I put mine in the living room as it's a centralized location and use my heat thermostat fan to circulate the cool air through the house (single story home).
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
What is this "heat thermostat fan" you speak of?
I have the 24k unit cooling my lower floor and my only regret was not having done it before.
I have the 24k unit cooling my lower floor and my only regret was not having done it before.
My house has a gas forced air furnace for heat, but it's possible to run the system fan only without heat via a thermostat in the hallway. Far easier than running multiple mini-split head units to several bedrooms. It's certainly not the most efficient but there is definitely a noticeable difference throughout the house.
Edit: This works for me because my furnace return air vent is outside my living room where the mini split is, so cool air enters there and is distributed through the house.
I've installed these and never an issue so far in 3 years. Just some quick tips for em.
Lay the excess coil horizontal on the ground. Don't leave it vertical as it can cause refrigeration and oil pooling and hard on compressor over time.
Try best to get a non fused disconnect. If for some reason you can only get a fused disconnect - DO NOT fuse the neutral. Pigtail the neutral (likely out of code for your local) or get a dummy fuse. A real dummy fuse and not a chunk of copper lol.
I had an undersized mini split installed in my home a few years ago (Mitsubishi unit). There's no chance I can reuse the same hose set I currently have and install new MRCOOL stuff on both ends, right?
If the fittings are the same size, you can reuse (usually 1/4" and 3/8") But you have to make sure to vacuum out the lines before you release the refrigerant from the new unit.
It s really hard to compare heat pump vs gas. Heat pump efficiency changes with along with tempatures, the colder, the lower efficiency. Gas price also is different from places to places.
In my case, I live in North Texas, which only have minimal winter, but very low gas price. Gas is still considered to be a bit more cost effective here.
That XLS allows you to enter your actual cost of various forms of heating and efficiencies and it will tell you which is cheapest to operate. Again the problem with heat pumps is that their efficiency varies with temperature, so you really need to have a good idea of how the COP varies with temperature to make an educated decision.
That can't be true. Even if it were, you could easily cut the connections and replace end points--it's copper, after all.
Anyway, the mrcool stuff is basically the opposite of "pro" installs because the charge is stored in the line sets. To use only mrcool condenser and air handlers, you'd need to evacuate the charge from your mitsubishi, then replace all the mitsubishi eqpt with mrcool, then recharge the system. Kind of a major job for diy.
Last, if you have mitsubishi it was almost certainly installed by a licensed pro and has a ton of warranty service left on it, since you get no warranty from mitsubishi unless you're one of their certified installers, so nobody in their right mind would self-install their equipment. It's a big step to dump their equipment after you've paid for their warranty. Maybe there's something else about your setup that could be improved rather than junking the whole system?
the charge is not stored in the linesets, Its stored in the outside unit. Once you get everything connected you release it.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank hydrocynus
04-03-2024 at 07:13 AM.
I have two units a 18k and 24k. For the money, they are great but the quality is not. It still is cheaper than getting a Daikin and get the warranty (must be installed by a pro). My two units are currently down. Booths have leaks with the condenser. It was a long process to get both shipped (so, warranty works well and they do take claims, you have to pay shipping). Now, I need to recover the refrigerant, pressure test the line with N2, vaccuum the lines and make sure the micron vacuum is holding and weigh the right amount of refrigerant. One issue with one unit also is that the valve to isolate the line is leaking so I could not get a good vacuum. The refrigerant from the compressor slowly leaked in the lines. So, first, recover the refrigerant, then open the valves, vacuum, pressure test, vacuum, pressure test, vacuum, charge with the right amount of refrigerant. No wonder no professional wants to touch them. This said, spending 1800 every three years still is cheaper than buying a Daikin with installation costing about 14000. Bad for the environment though..no doubt about that.
I bought the 24k a few years ago and I absolutely LOVE IT. It runs quiet and can chill things out in a hurry. I put mine in the living room as it's a centralized location and use my heat thermostat fan to circulate the cool air through the house (single story home).
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
Got pioneer 12K with 23 seer for $860. Trying to understand whether it is worth spending another $500 for Mr. cool or should I just stick to pioneer. Thanks
For those wondering why I ran parallel conduits out of the junction box, I ran an extra two circuits for a future EV charger or welder in the lower pipe. I don't like doing things twice, and future-proofing is sometimes a good move.
Bought one last year and the package came with dents and holes from horrible handling during shipping. One of the wall adapter piece was cracked because of that. Did a replacement with Costco and the second package had a huge hole in the corner and parts were missing. Had to tape it all back up in order for Costco to do return pickup. Costco customer service was top notch but wasted so much of my time and I couldn't understand how the company cared so little about the shipping services they utilize.
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I nearly bought the DIY unit so I wouldn't have to mess with a vacuum, but now I'm glad I went that route to save money and learn along the way. You got this!
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
What is this "heat thermostat fan" you speak of?
I have the 24k unit cooling my lower floor and my only regret was not having done it before.
I have the 24k unit cooling my lower floor and my only regret was not having done it before.
My house has a gas forced air furnace for heat, but it's possible to run the system fan only without heat via a thermostat in the hallway. Far easier than running multiple mini-split head units to several bedrooms. It's certainly not the most efficient but there is definitely a noticeable difference throughout the house.
Edit: This works for me because my furnace return air vent is outside my living room where the mini split is, so cool air enters there and is distributed through the house.
Lay the excess coil horizontal on the ground. Don't leave it vertical as it can cause refrigeration and oil pooling and hard on compressor over time.
Try best to get a non fused disconnect. If for some reason you can only get a fused disconnect - DO NOT fuse the neutral. Pigtail the neutral (likely out of code for your local) or get a dummy fuse. A real dummy fuse and not a chunk of copper lol.
I'm pretty sure a lot of these small mini splits are all generics that get rebranded.
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In my case, I live in North Texas, which only have minimal winter, but very low gas price. Gas is still considered to be a bit more cost effective here.
What I was getting at:
https://www.maine.gov/energy/site...ulator.x
That XLS allows you to enter your actual cost of various forms of heating and efficiencies and it will tell you which is cheapest to operate. Again the problem with heat pumps is that their efficiency varies with temperature, so you really need to have a good idea of how the COP varies with temperature to make an educated decision.
Anyway, the mrcool stuff is basically the opposite of "pro" installs because the charge is stored in the line sets. To use only mrcool condenser and air handlers, you'd need to evacuate the charge from your mitsubishi, then replace all the mitsubishi eqpt with mrcool, then recharge the system. Kind of a major job for diy.
Last, if you have mitsubishi it was almost certainly installed by a licensed pro and has a ton of warranty service left on it, since you get no warranty from mitsubishi unless you're one of their certified installers, so nobody in their right mind would self-install their equipment. It's a big step to dump their equipment after you've paid for their warranty. Maybe there's something else about your setup that could be improved rather than junking the whole system?
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank hydrocynus
The install for this can be very involved but it will really depend on your situation layout and skill level. If you get a 120v/15' hose unit that you can plug in to a standard recepticle, mount the head on the wall, drill a hole and shove the lines outside, then mount the unit on the siding or a concrete pad outside the wall, this install will likely be pretty easy.
It also be a pain as well though once you get into the 240v units if you aren't set up for it. I'm an electrician by trade and it took me 50 hours to install mine. That involved quite a few steps:
-Coring a 3" hole through brick, running lines up and through my garage and out the side wall.
-Setting up a chain-fall to hoist the condenser into the air, plus buying wall brackets and placing backing board in the walls with lag bolts to make damn sure it was solid.
-I bought the line gutter kit to give it a really clean install, highly recommend it.
-Run 1/2" conduit from my panel to a junction box outside the house, through the garage, to a disconnect under the unit.
-Installed 30 amp breaker and pulled 2 circuits a neutral and a ground, 10awg. The condenser doesn't need the neutral but you need a service gfci recepticle within a reasonable distance of the condenser unit. Plus it's been great having a plug out there now.
Sorry for the long ass post but take a few minutes with a pen and paper and a measuring tape before starting a project like this. What length of lines are you getting, how are you going to hide them? (coiling them up neatly behind the condenser is fine) What kind of walls are you drilling through, where is the condenser mounting, what voltage system will you need?
A 3" masonry core bit, wall brackets, gutters, EMT conduit, disconnect, hose and conduit supports, wire, chainfall; that's all things I hadn't anticipated but were made possible by my sponsors Amazon next day shipping and repeated trips to Home Depot heh.
Wish I knew how to host pics because it turned out great though. Good luck and safe installs everyone 👍
Got pioneer 12K with 23 seer for $860. Trying to understand whether it is worth spending another $500 for Mr. cool or should I just stick to pioneer. Thanks
You got it bud, I'll try my best. I'm not too techy anymore, I just build stuff. Hopefully it works 👍
Edit: First image host looked awful, I'm trying a different one. I hope it is better quality.
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For those wondering why I ran parallel conduits out of the junction box, I ran an extra two circuits for a future EV charger or welder in the lower pipe. I don't like doing things twice, and future-proofing is sometimes a good move.
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