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12-lbs Scotts Turf Builder Thick'r Lawn Grass Seed, Fertilizer, & Soil Improver Expired

$17
$28.99
+39 Deal Score
51,053 Views
Amazon has 12-lbs Scotts Turf Builder Thick'r Lawn Grass Seed, Fertilizer, & Soil Improver (1,200 sq. ft.) on sale for $16.97. Shipping is free w/ Prime or on $35+ orders.

Thanks to community member Gamerdude369 for finding this deal.

Note, product must be sold/shipped by Amazon. Subscribe & Save option is available as an alternative shipping method.

Features:
  • Covers 1,200 sq. ft.
  • Get up to a 50% thicker lawn with just one application (subject to proper care; results may vary based on current condition of lawn)
  • Contains grass seed to fill gaps in current lawn, fertilizer for thicker, greener turf, and soil improver to encourage root development
Good Deal?

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Edited April 9, 2024 at 09:59 PM by
About this item
Scotts Turf Builder THICK'R LAWN Sun & Shade is a 3-in-1 solution uniquely formulated to help turn your thin lawn into a thicker, greener lawn with stronger roots
Get up to a 50% thicker lawn with just one application (subject to proper care; results may vary based on current condition of lawn)
Lawn improvement product contains grass seed to fill gaps in current lawn, fertilizer for thicker, greener turf, and soil improver to encourage root development
This 3-in-1 is a great addition to your lawn care program with one application in the spring and one application in the late summer or early fall
One 12 lb. bag of Scotts Turf Builder THICK'R LAWN Sun & Shade covers 1,200 sq. ft.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotts-301...B077SXJDJP
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Deal
Score
+39
51,053 Views
$17
$28.99

Price Intelligence

Model: Scotts Turf Builder Thick'R Lawn All-Purpose Lawn Fertilizer For Sun/Shade Mix 1200 sq ft

Deal History 

Sort: Most Recent
Post Date Sold By Sale Price Activity
04/16/24Amazon$16.97
1
09/04/23Amazon$6.97 popular
16

Current Prices

Sort: Lowest to Highest | Last Updated 6/3/2024, 10:33 AM
Sold By Sale Price
Amazon$21.99
Ace Hardware$29.99
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Featured Comments

For Northern Lawns only just FYI
There are you tube video suggest buying just grass seed and fertilizer separately is cheaper. This bag does not have that much grass seed as it is filled with soil and fertilizer. Just saying
40lbs is cheaper if you need more than 2 👍 bags

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monkeybiz
04-11-2024 at 11:40 AM.
04-11-2024 at 11:40 AM.
Quote from nohomers1 :
So long as they are all similar turfgrasses. Note that some grow via rhizomes and others are bunch grasses, so you might be wasting seed if one variety has a growth pattern that dominates others.

In general, you want a mix of several similar varieties and several species of the same variety to provide characteristics from each and ensure stress and disease doesn't wipe out your lawn.
good to know... I've been "doing" lawns for years but haven't been very professional about it. We can't all be experts in every field.

I wouldn't even mind a dirt mix but this contains none of that. I'm trying to fill in big bare spots. And removing a lot of moss, like the second Amazon feedback from WA. "3. I used the Sun Joe Dethatcher. I dethatched vertically and then scarified horizontally this is two different attachments (Dethatcher has the tines and the scarifier has blades and digs deeper). This improves the seed to soil contact by removing the dead matter in the lawn. It also creates these little trenches in the soil and the seeds land in them. It ripped out most of the moss that was preventing the grass from filling in."
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gallant_suri
04-11-2024 at 12:41 PM.
04-11-2024 at 12:41 PM.
Even Walmart and HomeDepot selling for same price...
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nohomers1
04-11-2024 at 02:26 PM.

Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank nohomers1

04-11-2024 at 02:26 PM.
Quote from monkeybiz :
good to know... I've been "doing" lawns for years but haven't been very professional about it. We can't all be experts in every field.

I wouldn't even mind a dirt mix but this contains none of that. I'm trying to fill in big bare spots. And removing a lot of moss, like the second Amazon feedback from WA. "3. I used the Sun Joe Dethatcher. I dethatched vertically and then scarified horizontally this is two different attachments (Dethatcher has the tines and the scarifier has blades and digs deeper). This improves the seed to soil contact by removing the dead matter in the lawn. It also creates these little trenches in the soil and the seeds land in them. It ripped out most of the moss that was preventing the grass from filling in."
Here in the northeast/mid-atlantic, if there's moss it's probably a shady area. If so, you'll want a creeping fescue as they do best in shade (unless you're in the south, in which case I have no idea about Bermudagrass, St Augustine, etc). Would be good if you can test the soil as well, as it may be too acidic (this is common in areas around pine/evergreen trees).

This stuff is designed to be an all-in-one patch to fill in bare spots so you don't need to buy a seed mix and fertilizer...really nothing wrong with that other than it's a smaller coverage area.

Do you know what turfgrass species are there now? If it's old, many of the newer varieties are GMO'd to be darker green, so that's an interesting quirk if you are spot repairing, as the new grass may be darker than the existing grass, in which case it's useful to overseed the whole lawn (or at least that section) to blend in the new grass so it matches better.
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monkeybiz
04-11-2024 at 03:18 PM.
04-11-2024 at 03:18 PM.
Quote from nohomers1 :
Here in the northeast/mid-atlantic, if there's moss it's probably a shady area. If so, you'll want a creeping fescue as they do best in shade (unless you're in the south, in which case I have no idea about Bermudagrass, St Augustine, etc). Would be good if you can test the soil as well, as it may be too acidic (this is common in areas around pine/evergreen trees).

This stuff is designed to be an all-in-one patch to fill in bare spots so you don't need to buy a seed mix and fertilizer...really nothing wrong with that other than it's a smaller coverage area.

Do you know what turfgrass species are there now? If it's old, many of the newer varieties are GMO'd to be darker green, so that's an interesting quirk if you are spot repairing, as the new grass may be darker than the existing grass, in which case it's useful to overseed the whole lawn (or at least that section) to blend in the new grass so it matches better.
thanks, I sort of did the whole lawn so it might blend in. Experimenting on someone else's lawn and hoping for the best. I have no idea what grass type, hope I get lucky and they water seed enough. Funny the crows showed up as soon as I brought the thatcher out.. they were onto me.
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Clk1986
04-14-2024 at 04:27 PM.
04-14-2024 at 04:27 PM.
Quote from PaperOrPlastic :
Even at this price?

I just bought a 25lb bag from Costco for $55 after it's been discounted, originally $65. This deal here would make it $34 for 2 bags (24lbs).
You mean the 48lb bag from Costco? Bought the same one. I think the 40lb Bag from amazon is slightly cheaper and a good option if you don't have a Costco membership.

Lotta people have negative opinions on this product, but It's just easier to buy one bag and be good to go, vs running to several stores and figuring out where to buy what where. All I know is my lawn looks better from a year ago after the first application a few weeks back and I've got enough left over for a full application in the fall.
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Clk1986
04-14-2024 at 04:37 PM.
04-14-2024 at 04:37 PM.
Quote from monkeybiz :
thanks, I sort of did the whole lawn so it might blend in. Experimenting on someone else's lawn and hoping for the best. I have no idea what grass type, hope I get lucky and they water seed enough. Funny the crows showed up as soon as I brought the thatcher out.. they were onto me.
I'd just have thrown some straw or even some relatively "clean" grass clippings over any bare areas with seed. Helps a ton. I was able to grow a 2x4 foot section of grass back in 2021 during a heat-dome. (was 100+ degrees for like a week and hit temps between 115-120 for 3 of those days, up in the Pacific Northwest, was nuts).

From years of working 4-10s and having to rely on other people to keep up on watering newly seeded areas for just 3 days a week (and ideally 9 days MAX in a month, since the seed should have germinated and started providing itself some shade and had a better chance of surviving), I learned to just assume they'll either not water it at all, or overwater it and washed the seed out because they missed one, or two, times of day where they should have watered. lol
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monkeybiz
04-14-2024 at 04:54 PM.
04-14-2024 at 04:54 PM.
Quote from Clk1986 :
I'd just have thrown some straw or even some relatively "clean" grass clippings over any bare areas with seed. Helps a ton. I was able to grow a 2x4 foot section of grass back in 2021 during a heat-dome. (was 100+ degrees for like a week and hit temps between 115-120 for 3 of those days, up in the Pacific Northwest, was nuts).

From years of working 4-10s and having to rely on other people to keep up on watering newly seeded areas for just 3 days a week (and ideally 9 days MAX in a month, since the seed should have germinated and started providing itself some shade and had a better chance of surviving), I learned to just assume they'll either not water it at all, or overwater it and washed the seed out because they missed one, or two, times of day where they should have watered. lol
my buddy is an old war vet on a walker so I'll set him up with a hose, sprinkler and cheap $9 hose timer off amazon, works like egg timer so wife can run it. Walmart sent me the wrong EZ seed so this came just in time. Goes quite far actually, half a bag left.

The other lawn was much worse, truckload of moss and thatch so they got the full treatment.
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yatnuert
04-15-2024 at 10:39 AM.
04-15-2024 at 10:39 AM.
Quote from damannoa :
Yup this is a waste of money. Just buy the seed and everything else separately and you will save a lot. These mixed bags are a rip off.
any recommended seed buying source? and what seed for PNW
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Clk1986
04-15-2024 at 11:30 AM.
04-15-2024 at 11:30 AM.
Quote from yatnuert :
any recommended seed buying source? and what seed for PNW
Depends on where your grass is.

I'm in the PNW as well. IIRC Fescue/Ryegrasses is generally what is used around here. Not entirely sure which type of each exactly, but a seed supplier would be able to set you up. They also tend to only sell grass seed that is appropriate for the area.

But, if you are wanting to seed, I'd wait until fall. I've seeded enough times in the PNW to know that the rain will stop and the sun will come out right when you put that seed out, even in the spring. If you can keep up on making sure the soil is moist, then this is actually great--will germinate quickly. Just have to time your weed management carefully. I think 6 weeks before and after seeding, no weed killers, and about right now is when you'd want to get the weed killer down since those weeds are loving the bump in temp and light.

I seeded a large lawn back in 2016 or 2017, first week of April. Didn't rain for a month and it was sunny and abnormally hot for that time of year. Complete failure. I core aerated, put down some soil and overseeded my lawn last May. Didn't rain for 2 weeks and was in the 80s most of the time. I even checked the weather forecast and there was 100% chance of rain for 3 of the 5 days and expected clouds and rain onward. Just never know in the PNW what is really going to happen with the weather. haha

Edit: As others and I have mentioned, if you seed, a bit of straw will help a lot to hold the seed in place and keep it moist. I've also used some dried, leftover grass clippings from my mostly weed-free lawn.
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Last edited by Clk1986 April 15, 2024 at 11:33 AM.
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Clk1986
04-15-2024 at 11:45 AM.
04-15-2024 at 11:45 AM.
Quote from nohomers1 :
Here in the northeast/mid-atlantic, if there's moss it's probably a shady area. If so, you'll want a creeping fescue as they do best in shade (unless you're in the south, in which case I have no idea about Bermudagrass, St Augustine, etc). Would be good if you can test the soil as well, as it may be too acidic (this is common in areas around pine/evergreen trees).

This stuff is designed to be an all-in-one patch to fill in bare spots so you don't need to buy a seed mix and fertilizer...really nothing wrong with that other than it's a smaller coverage area.

Do you know what turfgrass species are there now? If it's old, many of the newer varieties are GMO'd to be darker green, so that's an interesting quirk if you are spot repairing, as the new grass may be darker than the existing grass, in which case it's useful to overseed the whole lawn (or at least that section) to blend in the new grass so it matches better.
My understanding of moss is that it thrives where grass does not.SO basically you want to fix the soil. Be it through core aeration or improving drainage. Then picking appropriate grasses for the area. Moss won't kill your lawn, it pops up when your lawn is not doing so hot.

There is some debate whether acidic soil really plays a big role in moss taking over a lawn. All I know is I threw down multiple applications of lime in the past 16 months and still brought up quite a bit of moss with the dethatcher. I think the real solution is probably burning the whole lawn to carbon (ok, that part might be overkill), bringing in 5 inches of quality compost, then rototilling it all in and starting fresh.
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SiennaMeal9859
04-15-2024 at 02:39 PM.
04-15-2024 at 02:39 PM.
Quote from whiter0se :
I just added weed and feed to my lawn yesterday. Adding this would burn the lawn no?
No, The weed and feed would kill the grass seed not burn the lawn. You should wait 6 weeks after using weed and feed to use grass seed.
Don't forget to water everyday after putting down lawn products.
Super green lawn man
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jdsmn21
04-16-2024 at 04:36 PM.
04-16-2024 at 04:36 PM.
Quote from StankNasty411 :
66% rye?! 😂🤣 good grief that's awful. I roll with local landscaping store. Seeds are much higher quality, higher purity, zero weed seed, certified, and with a mixed variety of fescue/bluegrass which is what you want and ratios are determined by sun/shade area of lawn.

Ryegrass is hot garbage and shouldn't exceed 10-15% of a fescue blend. Real seed blends should have 0% ryegrass to begin with.

Seed costs are negligible to the total maintenance costs of a lawn. Don't skimp on seed. Spend the extra $10 to get the real stuff vs. this mass produced low quality rye garbage. You'll have to buy better seed later anyway to replace this stuff.

Theoretically, rye is the quickest to germinate and is there as a "starter" variety for the fescue/Kentucky blue to fill in and takeover. Reality is it's unnecessary as prepping and laying down straw will hold the bare soil fine and provide coverage/moisture retention for fescue to germinate.
It's PERENNIAL rye, not annual rye (which last's one year and dies). Perennial ryegrass is commonplace on outdoor sports turf, cause it's wear resistant and quick to patch. Here's an example of one of the cultivars included in the bag: https://www.atlasturf.com/turfgra...-ryegrass/

You should also know - there is bluegrass seed in the bag also. Bluegrass seed is very small, so when you see those percentages of seed cultivars on the back label - those are BY WEIGHT. If you actually counted seeds, you'd find the ratio closer to 50/50.

I haven't used this particular product, but I have used Scotts before. I know folks complain about the "seed vs other material" in Scotts products, or "all you are paying for is coating"....but I've had nothing but great luck with Scotts. It's pricey, and makes me question the value - but it grows where I want it to.
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damannoa
04-17-2024 at 07:25 AM.
04-17-2024 at 07:25 AM.
Quote from yatnuert :
any recommended seed buying source? and what seed for PNW
In all honesty I just buy from Home depot or Lowes, usually whatever is on sale. I'm in the NE so Kentucky blue grass is popular here. Get a 15 lb bag of seed, a 40 lb back of top soil, a bag of peat moss and mix them up. You will get a whole lot bang for your buck
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