frontpage Posted by Rokket | Staff • May 17, 2024
May 17, 2024 3:07 PM
Item 1 of 2
Item 1 of 2
frontpage Posted by Rokket | Staff • May 17, 2024
May 17, 2024 3:07 PM
REI Co-op Cycles Bikes: ADV 1.1 $1019 ADV 3.1 $1019, ADV 2.3
+ Free Store Pickup$1,499
$2,499
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I mainly refer to the 2.x models that are the more "real gravel" of the 3. The 3.1 is more of a drop-bar MTB, and if that's what you are after, also pretty sensible build.
I have 2 gripes:
1) The tire clearance seems to be "tight". It comes with 700x40 tires but the way I see it, even a 45c might be tight if you want to go wider. Maybe will be OK if you never ride in mud, but...if you would like to consider wider tires for singletrack and/or comfort all-around, maybe not the ideal bike
2) The cheaper of the 3, comes with a road crankset with 50/34T chainrings. As the people most likely to go for the cheaper built are often beginner cyclists or returning from a long hiatus, be warned that off-roading often requires lower gearing because of steeper gradients. and the 50T is also very long...If you can push a 50/11T gear @ flat, you are wasting yourself if you are not racing...this is more of an issue with Shimano Claris not having more sensible gears, but still...the 3.1 has much lower gearing, but as I said, it is because it is using MTB drivetrain & brakes.
That is an MTB "Deore" pull ration RD, so they could not use any of Shimano's drop-bar controllers that have a different pull ratio, and they could not get a GRX or 105 or w/e crankset that would do less than 30 (?) teeth because 110BCD and whatnot.
And 26/42T as the lowest gearing is like 30/5x, so super MTB low, especially on 650B wheels. This is a bike sold for touring/bikepacking, and guessing off-roading when loaded etc...it is not a race bike where you try to shave milliseconds on your shifts, rather a work-mule that wants you to get over steep hills, with a loaded bike that might be 100lbs, not 20, and giving you a chance to do it for like 8+ hr a day w/o you tapping out. You won't go fast doing that, and 26/42T rolls slower than walking.
Bar-ends work fine and are far more forgiving with less than perfect indexing.
Maaaybe they could do it with a Microshift XLE11 (?) briefters that do have MTB pull ratio on a drop-bar config, BUT, are mechanical brake only, this would complicate caliper options...maybe you can do it respectably with TRP hydro/mech brakes or Klampers and whatnot, but not at the MSRP.
As I said, this is made by ppl who have researched their sh!t, probably more than the average joe on SD or Reddit and whatnot. Maybe it is not a bike for you or me, and makes sense, it is a very niche bike. But it is not a bottom of the barrel BS build as you claim.
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I mainly refer to the 2.x models that are the more "real gravel" of the 3. The 3.1 is more of a drop-bar MTB, and if that's what you are after, also pretty sensible build.
I have 2 gripes:
1) The tire clearance seems to be "tight". It comes with 700x40 tires but the way I see it, even a 45c might be tight if you want to go wider. Maybe will be OK if you never ride in mud, but...if you would like to consider wider tires for singletrack and/or comfort all-around, maybe not the ideal bike
2) The cheaper of the 3, comes with a road crankset with 50/34T chainrings. As the people most likely to go for the cheaper built are often beginner cyclists or returning from a long hiatus, be warned that off-roading often requires lower gearing because of steeper gradients. and the 50T is also very long...If you can push a 50/11T gear @ flat, you are wasting yourself if you are not racing...this is more of an issue with Shimano Claris not having more sensible gears, but still...the 3.1 has much lower gearing, but as I said, it is because it is using MTB drivetrain & brakes.
Plus, I wouldn't expect any brand to exceed Shimano recommendations for a mass produced bicycle; that's just inviting problems. Calling Shimano specs "ultra" conservative is also pushing it a bit. Yes, they are conservative but they are not arbitrary numbers. Numbers are based on working within the range stipulated in the Shimano specs that they give to frame manufacturers. On some frames which are on one side of that range, you may very well be able to go up to a 46t without a single tradeoff while on another frame that is on the other side of that range, even going up one tooth may be problematic.
You've got to look at all the variables (chainstay length, bottom bracket height, etc.) and in some cases the number isn't all that conservative at all. Sometimes one of the specs is limiting while the other is based on the rest of the group (but not a hard limit). Would have to experiment to see if the chainwrap capacity is more limiting here, or if it's the B screw adjustment, or both. Don't have this RD so ::shrugs::
I've met people who swear that their build is "perfect" and yet I can't help but notice the rubbing that they ignore if I'm riding alongside them.
In any case, I'm just saying it's sensible for REI to stick to the manufacturer recommendations. But I'd certainly encourage people to experiment if they understand everything I wrote above in which case they are more than competent enough to know if going out of spec will be problem free.
You find me another new gravel bike with GRX 800 level components for $1500. Otherwise, don't make blanket statements.
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I mainly refer to the 2.x models that are the more "real gravel" of the 3. The 3.1 is more of a drop-bar MTB, and if that's what you are after, also pretty sensible build.
I have 2 gripes:
1) The tire clearance seems to be "tight". It comes with 700x40 tires but the way I see it, even a 45c might be tight if you want to go wider. Maybe will be OK if you never ride in mud, but...if you would like to consider wider tires for singletrack and/or comfort all-around, maybe not the ideal bike
2) The cheaper of the 3, comes with a road crankset with 50/34T chainrings. As the people most likely to go for the cheaper built are often beginner cyclists or returning from a long hiatus, be warned that off-roading often requires lower gearing because of steeper gradients. and the 50T is also very long...If you can push a 50/11T gear @ flat, you are wasting yourself if you are not racing...this is more of an issue with Shimano Claris not having more sensible gears, but still...the 3.1 has much lower gearing, but as I said, it is because it is using MTB drivetrain & brakes.
The gearing is MTB for both the 3.1 and 1.1.. different cable pull that is not compatible with drop bar shifters. If you want the low gearing and drop bars, bar ends are the solution. There are other solutions but they are a bit kludgy, either using adapters made by Jtek Shiftmate or using modified drop bar brake levers (Gevenalle).
You find me another new gravel bike with GRX 800 level components for $1500. Otherwise, don't make blanket statements.
That is an MTB "Deore" pull ration RD, so they could not use any of Shimano's drop-bar controllers that have a different pull ratio, and they could not get a GRX or 105 or w/e crankset that would do less than 30 (?) teeth because 110BCD and whatnot.
And 26/42T as the lowest gearing is like 30/5x, so super MTB low, especially on 650B wheels. This is a bike sold for touring/bikepacking, and guessing off-roading when loaded etc...it is not a race bike where you try to shave milliseconds on your shifts, rather a work-mule that wants you to get over steep hills, with a loaded bike that might be 100lbs, not 20, and giving you a chance to do it for like 8+ hr a day w/o you tapping out. You won't go fast doing that, and 26/42T rolls slower than walking.
Bar-ends work fine and are far more forgiving with less than perfect indexing.
Maaaybe they could do it with a Microshift XLE11 (?) briefters that do have MTB pull ratio on a drop-bar config, BUT, are mechanical brake only, this would complicate caliper options...maybe you can do it respectably with TRP hydro/mech brakes or Klampers and whatnot, but not at the MSRP.
As I said, this is made by ppl who have researched their sh!t, probably more than the average joe on SD or Reddit and whatnot. Maybe it is not a bike for you or me, and makes sense, it is a very niche bike. But it is not a bottom of the barrel BS build as you claim.
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