expired Posted by BeigeCemetery6723 • Oct 2, 2024
Oct 2, 2024 12:04 PM
Item 1 of 3
Item 1 of 3
expired Posted by BeigeCemetery6723 • Oct 2, 2024
Oct 2, 2024 12:04 PM
Pittsburgh Pro Click Torque Wrench (1/2", 1/4" or 3/8" Drive Wrench)
+ $7 Flat-Rate S/H$12
$20
40% offHarbor Freight
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These are good for the average DIY user. YMMV based on understanding how to use a torque wrench. Again, these suck if you are an idiot. If someone over torques bolt. They never set the torque setting at all or incorrectly to begin with.
(*or fail to click, as has been the experience of many of us)
What I did was flip it from tighten, to loosen, turned it a click, and I felt something shift internally. Put it back to tighten, and it's been working fine since. I guess something just got a tiny bit stuck.
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Other issues people need to be aware of when using these style of torque wrenches:
-You have to apply force at the knurl part of the handle, if not, you throw everything off. That means no extension bar and no choking up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-...SSM&t=245s
-You cannot use anti-seize, lubricant, or thread locker with torque wrenches. Torque = Friction coefficient * bolt diameter * desired tensile load. Torque is an indirect measurement of tensile load which is the property that actually matters. Torque specs thus assume a certain friction coefficient to reach the desired tensile load. Anything that alters the friction between threads will alter the tensile load that is reached when torquing to a certain spec. If any of those liquids are needed to be used, you need to first torque clean bolts and nuts, mark the position, back out the nut, then apply the friction adjustment liquid, and wrench it to the marked position. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-...SSM&t=999s
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they work great for me. if i recall they did torque wrench comparisons on YT and HF had always performed adequately so for someone who doesn't use their torque wrench for rebuilding engines or block that require lower specs and exact precision, these have done the job for me and i'm alive.
granted i absolutely want a digital adapter torque wrench but just wanted to share bc im reading these comments and they seem overwhelming critical on this when i think they are perfectly fine for a home DIYer, especially the 1/2 for lugs and keeping one in the trunk for $12 is a value you can't deny
and while the 3/8 clicks a bit more subtle than the audible and loud 1/2 click, it isn't an issue for someone who is actually using it and being mindful….
(*or fail to click, as has been the experience of many of us)
If someone doesn't know how to set a torque wrench. They would be using a torque wrench without any set limit like any other socket wrench. I suspect that is what a lot of inexperienced or non mechanically inclined users are doing.
If someone doesn't know how to set a torque wrench. They would be using a torque wrench without any set limit like any other socket wrench. I suspect that is what a lot of inexperienced or non mechanically inclined users are doing.
In these wrenches, that widget often gets gummed up or dislodged, not allowing it to work properly.
I mean, they are called "Click Torque Wrenches" or "Clickers" for a reason.
Whenever I buy a used car the plugs are on the checklist to inspect and the last Toyota I bought had plugs that were backed out a few full turns. That could have been catastrophic.
My mechanic says make it hand tight and don't yank on it. He's been doing it that way for 30yrs and never had an issue. That's a much larger sample size than any at home mechanic...
In the case of spark plugs, you can screw them in until they bottom out, and then turn a bit more to compress the washer. Usually that means another 15-180 degrees. You can usually feel when the washer has been compressed the expected amount,
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