eco-worthy-us via eBay has
12-Volt 280AH Eco-Worthy LiFePo4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery w/ 6000 Cycles on sale for $474.99 - 20% off when you apply promo code
SHOPGIFTSEARLY at checkout =
$379.99.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to Deal Hunter
Meowssi for sharing this deal.
Specs:
- Battery capacity: 280Ah
- Battery power: 3584Wh
- Battery Voltage: 12.8V
- Max Charge Current: 160A
- Max Discharge Current: 200A
- Peak Point Current: 850A
- Max Charge Voltage: 14.6V
- Discharge cut-off VoltagE: 10V
- Battery Size (LxWxH): 17.8 x 9.37 x 8.7"
- Battery Weight: 61.7 lbs
- Number of Series and Parallel Connection: 4P4S
Features:
- LiFePO4 battery is lighter than Lead-Acid battery with the same capacity
- More convenient carrying, many mount directions, no leakage risk, safer usage
- Takes 14 hours to charge with 12V 20A LiFePO4 battery charger, about 6 hours to charge with 600w solar panel, and 14 hours to charge with 20A DC generator
- Has 3584Wh of energy, which can be expanded to 57.3kwh with 4 in series and 4 in parallel, perfect for RV, solar off-Grid system, boat, camper, marine, travel trailer, motor homes, etc
- Built-in 200A BMS, protect it from overcharge, over-discharge, charge over-current, discharge over-current, short-circuit, cell voltage self balance, high-temp discharge cut off
- Can be charged and discharged in 6000+ deep cycles, which is 3 times longer than lead-acid battery
Leave a Comment
Top Comments
https://www.ebay.com/itm/126036129048?
It is $399 (+ tax) with the coupon code.
I'm getting 4 more, and doing a full hybrid inverter battery backup.
Ran these off a 1000w inverter for 16hrs during Milton before the inverter took a crap. Paralleled two batteries, ran two full size refrigerators, and it was still over 3/4 capacity per the inverter.
If you don't need the bluetooth BMS (which I don't, really), these are a smokin' deal.
Just trying to find an external BMS that I can use to monitor all 8.......
71 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Just looked the Ecoflow XTi connector is 300V, 14 ga, 80c.
Here is an example of an inline: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-H...B000LEQVRQ.
(assuming you are looking at one 12V external LFP)
Just be aware you will need to charge the LFP separately from the ecoflow if that is not evident.
Battery to inverter fuse/breaker
The battery-inverter connection handles significant current, especially when the inverter is powering large loads, making it critical to safeguard against short circuits or power surges. A fuse or breaker ensures that in the event of an overcurrent situation, the flow of electricity is cut off, preventing overheating, equipment damage, or even fire hazards.
The size of the fuse or breaker should be carefully selected based on the inverter's power rating and the battery voltage. Typically, the fuse is rated 1.25 to 1.5 times the maximum current draw of the inverter. For instance, if the inverter draws 100 amps, a fuse rated for 125 to 150 amps would be appropriate to handle surges without unnecessary tripping. The fuse or breaker should be installed as close to the battery as possible to minimize the risk of damage to the wiring between the battery and the inverter.
Breaker would you use for a 48v lithium battery?
4 of these batteries wired in series=48v
2 banks of the batteries (2x4 wired in series). Then the two banks will be wired in parallel- 48v 560ah=26.8kw.
EG4 6000XP hybrid inverter will be used. Powered by a 60a breaker on the main. Feeding a subpanel of critical circuits such as refrigerators, bedrooms for lights and fans, computers, etc. EG4 is cool because it's 120/240v split phase and expandable. So I can add more capacity later on with battery storage and/or solar. Plus generator can plug into it to recharge batteries or add wattage capacity during a grid outage.
The 1100w inverter that took a crap on me was an amazon unit around $110 or so.
It's not that the inverter is going to draw all 60amps at once. It's that i'm going to be essentially moving 6-7 breakers out of the main to go under that 60.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Breaker would you use for a 48v lithium battery?
A 48V battery is going to take 1/4 the amperage to put the same wattage in as a 12V battery so this is why people start going to 48V systems because the cabling gauge can be much smaller (1/4) (and cheaper).
You normally want to have the fuse 1.25x to 1.3x the peak amperage you expect to run through the (+) cable and have the fuse as close to the positive terminal as possible. Then size the wiring at 1.25x to 1.3x the fuse rating. Also make sure the fuse is rated to say 58V or higher. So if you are looking for say 2000W peak that is approximately 42A so you want a 50-60A fuse and wiring that can handle 75ish A.
Typical solar/RV will use ANL fuses, here is an example:
https://www.renogy.com/20a-30a-40...et-w-fuse/
HTH, please upvote.
The goal of all this is to minimize the chances of a fire, so a few extra bucks up front can provide a much safer system.
https://www.amazon.com/PlusRoc-Wa...B09DGDQ48H
https://www.amazon.com/Lead-Acid-...B09ZLD6RJ5
You can get cheaper chargers. This is a 20A model which is the suggested maximum charging rate. If you don't need it to charge fast, you can save money with ones with a lower amperage output and less capability, i.e. all battery types.
https://www.amazon.com/PlusRoc-Wa...B09DGDQ48H
https://www.amazon.com/Lead-Acid-...B09ZLD6RJ5
You can get cheaper chargers. This is a 20A model which is the suggested maximum charging rate. If you don't need it to charge fast, you can save money with ones with a lower amperage output and less capability, i.e. all battery types.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Leave a Comment