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Model: Mobil 1 FS European Car Formula Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-40, 5 Quart (Pack of 3)
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It shows $84 for me. From what I found before, the Euro was mostly ensuring longer oil changes miles. There are letters to make sure oils meet the minimum specs for your car. The numbers are how thick the oil is cold and hot. Many newer cars use variable lifters and so it does matter if you put in say x-w30 or x-w40 in a motor that has 16 or 20 as it's top number. It might throw a check engine light on your dash because it can't go into eco mode like it wants. Turbo cars and GDI cars need oils that don't cause knocking or sludge problems as much. It's not as easy as the 80's where any ol' oil was good to go.
It shows $84 for me. From what I found before, the Euro was mostly ensuring longer oil changes miles. There are letters to make sure oils meet the minimum specs for your car. The numbers are how thick the oil is cold and hot. Many newer cars use variable lifters and so it does matter if you put in say x-w30 or x-w40 in a motor that has 16 or 20 as it's top number. It might throw a check engine light on your dash because it can't go into eco mode like it wants. Turbo cars and GDI cars need oils that don't cause knocking or sludge problems as much. It's not as easy as the 80's where any ol' oil was good to go.
Cold viscosity can almost never be low enough. Warm viscosity is more important, but if you look at how engine oil pumps actually work, you almost can't go too low there either since the goal is ensure you never exceed the oil pump pressure bypass level. You go too high (and end up bypassing the oil pump), but that is going to cause a lack of oil to the top of the engine during higher revolutions moreso than having an impact on variable lifters (see below).
Where you CAN go seriously wrong is by getting the wrong additive package. Different engines have different materials in the block, sleeve, rings, etc, and those different materials require different additives. For example, the old 4.0L Jeep engines needed a high zinc content with most recommending a diesel oil (I use Rotella T6), while my BMW uses 0W-40 Mobil 1 that is wholly inappropriate for my Lincoln which has different internals and needs different additives.
Side note, that BMW is dual variable timing - factory recommended 10W-60 originally then switched to 5W-30. Both activate the cam timing and other hydraulics just fine...
0w40 and 5w40 are interchangeable on most vehicles owned by people who don't recognize the other differences in the oil such as additive packages
I should have said as long as they have the same specs. Both Mobile 1 5w40 and 0w40 have the same exact certificates and specs for my vw. To me that sounds like they have the same additives and the difference is that the 0 has lower viscosity. My VWs manual actually says to normally use 5w40 but to use 0w40 in cold climates. Now if you compare a euro mobile1 0w40 to a shell 0w40 of course they will have different additives if they have different specs. Let's not complicate oil.
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Shell Rotella has a rebate right now though and should end up less expensive than this deal.
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Where you CAN go seriously wrong is by getting the wrong additive package. Different engines have different materials in the block, sleeve, rings, etc, and those different materials require different additives. For example, the old 4.0L Jeep engines needed a high zinc content with most recommending a diesel oil (I use Rotella T6), while my BMW uses 0W-40 Mobil 1 that is wholly inappropriate for my Lincoln which has different internals and needs different additives.
Side note, that BMW is dual variable timing - factory recommended 10W-60 originally then switched to 5W-30. Both activate the cam timing and other hydraulics just fine...
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