Update: This popular deal is still available.
Costway has
Costway Energy Star Certified 12000 BTU 24 SEER2 115V Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner and Heater WiFi Enabled for $759 – $180 when you apply coupon code
XQFP10895 in cart =
$579.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to staff member
Izzy138 for finding this deal.
Note: Shipping protection charge can be removed at checkout
Product Details:
- Color: White
- Material: Metal, Aluminum, Plastic
- Indoor Unit Size: 32.5" x 12" x 8"
- Outdoor Unit Size: 28" x 11" x 21"
- Max Control Distance: 26 ft
- Cooling Capacity: 12000 BTU
- Heating Capacity: 12300 BTU
- Cooling Power: 960W
- Heating Power: 850W
- Voltage: 115V~60Hz
- Heat Pump: 1 ton
- Coverage Area: 750 sq.ft
- Dehumidifying Capacity: 51 Pints/Day
- Air Flow Rate: 412 CFM
- Temperature Setting Range: 60℉~90℉
- Refrigeration: R32
- HSPF: 210
- SEER: 224
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Top Comments
Could you terminate to a plug? Yes. Should you? Probably not. Feels like that would not meet code, but I can't confirm that. Just sounds suspect.
That said, I have a Costway 18K BTU mini split in my 1,000 sqft shop with very little insulation. It works well, but it isn't but enough for the shop. I knew that putting it in. I paid $589 about a year ago, but no WiFi on mine. 220 volt
I installed it, and consider myself slightly above novice. I know enough to be dangerous. Plenty of online videos. Only odd tool you need is an HVAC vacuum. Otherwise all the tools you need you probably already have.
Instructions are detailed good. The only issue I had was really around the electrical wiring . The wire colors on the unit did not match the instructions, so it took me a bit to figure it out.
--
Power = Current x Voltage
110v x 10 amps = 1100 watts.
220v x 5 amps = 1100 watts.
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i don't even trust the torque wrench myself on the 1/4 line. I snug it, then snug it a bit more just by feel (not a pro btw). I confirm with a micron gauge and bubble leak stuff.
here's the deal on this DIY as with these i buy em cheap and if it dies it dies. If i screw up the install i'm out a few hundred.
You're spending sub or 500 dollars on these. You DIY it, let's say you don't do pressure test. You screw up the flare loose your charge,etc what are you gonna too? call in a tech for > 1/2 cost of the unit? go out and buy couple hundred bucks of 410a(? not sure what these use didn't look). No i'm gonna buy another unit and chalk it up and hope i don't make the same mistake.
.... Let's say you do the full 9's , micron, pressure test,etc all is well. We're still talking high psi refrigerant in a cheap unit, it is what it is. May not leak now will it eventually? maybe who knows it's the green refrigerant pressures that are the pita part.
...let's say you get the flared right (fairly easy), micron, pressure test all good and due to pressures something breaks in 9 months are you gonna hassle with the company for months and diagnose leak detectors dye,etc whatever where the leak could be? no you're gonna toss it.
So that's your risk. You see alot of talk on the nitrogen, when i did my first one i over tightened the 1/4 line, micron test good, cracked open high pressure line boom blew off line at the flare. Why? Because by over tightening you're cutting the flare at the base with the nut.
did it again blew off the other end! That's when i said ok my torque wrench sucks, it's a weeny line doesn't take much so i just did it by feel. Micron again, release and immediately check with bubble stuff. it's really hard to over tighten the 1/2 inch or whatever flare you gotta really be going nuts on it.
Now that first unit it was 26 foot lineset so did loose some refridgerant,oil but i had shortened the lineset to like 4 feet so unit still works fine. Personally at price of these cheaper units, learn to flare with simple tool, understand NOT to over tighten just hand tighten snug with wrench, then 1/4 turn. Micron test. *crack* open high line, and quickly bubble test. All good let it rip.
Anyways buy em cheap, let em rip. Be willing to loose a few bucks. If you're only going to do 1, hire a pro just not worth it. Want to do many of em? diy it, a few short deaths or one screw up is still massive savings.
Commercial have demand meters, completely different way that they work…We have a family business that has operated for over 80 years as a electrical contractor. I've been around it my whole life.
In residential the meter monitors both phases correct but whichever one is the highest is what your getting charged for. Hence why some people with unbalanced loads in there 2 phase panels have high bills.
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What's "high" current? It's able to run on a 14/2 on a 15a breaker with about 8amps of draw max. If you are a considerable distance from your panel you should upgrade to a 12/2 to help with possible voltage drop.
Look at the flares from the factory they are not always great. You can get a concentric flare tool that will made very good flares. You can also use nylok blue on your flare fittings to have a better seal. I have always re-flared everyone that I have put in mostly because I adjust the line set to fit the install.
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That's 17 SEER2 vs. 24 for this one. Very different.
Yes. Electrician is here. Just make sure you have a ground in the receptacle.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank magixx
Searching fp10302us-wh takes me to a different model at costwav with a seer2 rating of 20.
The only reason I am considering ordering this for my travel trailer is for the Seer2 rating of 24, as that would run on 600 watts as opposed to 800 watts on the seer2 20 model. 600 watts would be pretty easy to run on 2 solar panels and still charge batteries at the same time, where 800 watts would probably need 3 panels
Now I don't know if it is worth it to sell my uninstalled pioneer 12k 19Seer2 model and buy this one or not
The brochure on their site shows models FP10293US, FP10302US, FP10318US, FP10324US which a 17 to 20 SEER2 and not 24 as claimed on the site.
I found the same items on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/COSTWAY-Co...2W3TD?th=1 and one of the customer reviews shows the box with a model number of FP10788US (which is sold under different brands) but even that model shows a max of 22SEER.
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