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popularRed_Liz | Staff posted Jul 21, 2025 02:30 PM
popularRed_Liz | Staff posted Jul 21, 2025 02:30 PM

ECO-WORTHY 1170W Solar Kit (6 Panels, 3000W Inverter, 2 x 24V 100Ah LP Battery) $1700 + Free Shipping

$1,700

$2,000

15% off
eBay
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eco-worthy-us via eBay [ebay.com] has ECO-WORTHY 1170W Solar Kit (6 Panels, 3000W Inverter, 2 x 24V 100Ah LP Battery) on sale for $1999.99 - $300 w/ code SOLAR300 at checkout = $1699.99. Shipping is free.

Includes:
  • 6 x 195W Bifacial Solar Panels
  • 2 x 25.6V 100Ah LiFePO4 Batteries
  • 1 x 60A MPPT Solar Charge Controller + Bluetooth
  • 1 x 3000W 24V-120V Inverter
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Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
eco-worthy-us via eBay [ebay.com] has ECO-WORTHY 1170W Solar Kit (6 Panels, 3000W Inverter, 2 x 24V 100Ah LP Battery) on sale for $1999.99 - $300 w/ code SOLAR300 at checkout = $1699.99. Shipping is free.

Includes:
  • 6 x 195W Bifacial Solar Panels
  • 2 x 25.6V 100Ah LiFePO4 Batteries
  • 1 x 60A MPPT Solar Charge Controller + Bluetooth
  • 1 x 3000W 24V-120V Inverter

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11 Comments

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Pro
Jul 21, 2025 07:24 PM
39 Posts
Joined Jun 2011
Jul 21, 2025 07:24 PM
ficky23
Pro
Jul 21, 2025 07:24 PM
39 Posts
Seems like a nice RV project for boon docker's. Wonder if it can sufficiently run AC indefinitely depending on circumstances?
Jul 21, 2025 09:07 PM
10 Posts
Joined Nov 2007
Jul 21, 2025 09:07 PM
Superx10Jul 21, 2025 09:07 PM
10 Posts
With a 12v rv ac unit, i think you can run indefinitely with 1200W of solar
Yesterday 01:43 AM
67 Posts
Joined Oct 2015
Yesterday 01:43 AM
slackerjjYesterday 01:43 AM
67 Posts
Quote from Superx10 :
With a 12v rv ac unit, i think you can run indefinitely with 1200W of solar
You would need a 24v or 48v unit for this package, depending if you parallel or series these two batteries. It looks like the controller handles both configurations.
Yesterday 01:52 PM
79 Posts
Joined Dec 2010
Yesterday 01:52 PM
wailerYesterday 01:52 PM
79 Posts
This is a 24V system, which is fairly good for 1500-2500W. So this is basically for a small RV a 24VDC air conditioner. Those draw about 20-40 amps and you can wire them directly to the battery bank and only use the inverter for some cooking or light AC usage. I wouldn't push more than 1800W through the inverter but that's enough to run any kitchen appliance by itself.

If you you need to draw more than 2500W, you should consider a 48V system. You'll save a lot on wiring and it'll be easier to replace parts or upgrade.

If you run 12VDC appliances, like a 12VDC fridge, lighting, USB charging panels, or most things designed for autos, you'll need to get a DC-DC converter.
Yesterday 07:28 PM
2 Posts
Joined Sep 2010
Yesterday 07:28 PM
steveragnoYesterday 07:28 PM
2 Posts
Quote from wailer :
This is a 24V system, which is fairly good for 1500-2500W. So this is basically for a small RV a 24VDC air conditioner. Those draw about 20-40 amps and you can wire them directly to the battery bank and only use the inverter for some cooking or light AC usage. I wouldn't push more than 1800W through the inverter but that's enough to run any kitchen appliance by itself.If you you need to draw more than 2500W, you should consider a 48V system. You'll save a lot on wiring and it'll be easier to replace parts or upgrade.If you run 12VDC appliances, like a 12VDC fridge, lighting, USB charging panels, or most things designed for autos, you'll need to get a DC-DC converter.
If I wanted to take advantage of the reduced rates at night by charging and using the battery during the day, what would be a good choice?
Yesterday 08:02 PM
279 Posts
Joined Jul 2015
Yesterday 08:02 PM
vincent.zues1Yesterday 08:02 PM
279 Posts
Please excuse my ignorance I've only run 12v system and inverter.
So if I trade and go to a 24v system is the 24v inverter to 120ac good for normal appliances? I run my ac unit off of it. Along with tv when not in summer months. Do I need anything else or does the inverter do all the changes from 24v to 12v?
Today 12:03 AM
79 Posts
Joined Dec 2010
Today 12:03 AM
wailerToday 12:03 AM
79 Posts
Quote from steveragno :
If I wanted to take advantage of the reduced rates at night by charging and using the battery during the day, what would be a good choice?
It mostly depends on what the rate difference is between day and night. Batteries have come down in price a lot, but they still run at least ~$150 per kwh. 10kwh will run $1500 for just the batteries. You still need panels, a charge controller and an inverter.

Let's say $3k for a 10kwh system, 2500W of mounted panels, 5000-Watt 48V inverter/charge controller. If you could generate and use 10kwh per day and you pay $0.10/kwh, it would take you ~9 years to break even.

Of course, you'd have a nice system that could power your house during an extended outage.

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Today 12:09 AM
79 Posts
Joined Dec 2010
Today 12:09 AM
wailerToday 12:09 AM
79 Posts
Quote from vincent.zues1 :
Please excuse my ignorance I've only run 12v system and inverter.
So if I trade and go to a 24v system is the 24v inverter to 120ac good for normal appliances? I run my ac unit off of it. Along with tv when not in summer months. Do I need anything else or does the inverter do all the changes from 24v to 12v?
The 12V or 24V is just the voltage of your battery bank. If you need to run a 120V window unit AC, those generally need 1500W to run (actually quite a bit more during start up). So with 12V, you wire that could carry at least 125 amps. It's not really practical at 12V. At 24V, you'd need wire for 70 amps. Better, but that's still a lot of current.

I don't think many 12V inverters can handle the surge required to run a window AC, especially an AC that has a high start up load. You'd really want to find an inverter that could handle at least 3000W, which is most likely a 24V or 48V one.
Today 12:18 AM
279 Posts
Joined Jul 2015
Today 12:18 AM
vincent.zues1Today 12:18 AM
279 Posts
Quote from wailer :
The 12V or 24V is just the voltage of your battery bank. If you need to run a 120V window unit AC, those generally need 1500W to run (actually quite a bit more during start up). So with 12V, you wire that could carry at least 125 amps. It's not really practical at 12V. At 24V, you'd need wire for 70 amps. Better, but that's still a lot of current.

I don't think many 12V inverters can handle the surge required to run a window AC, especially an AC that has a high start up load. You'd really want to find an inverter that could handle at least 3000W, which is most likely a 24V or 48V one.

So for me I currently run 2x 100ah batts on a 3k inverter. My ac runs at 1kw-1.1kw continuous. Startup is 3k-5k for a second.
I run it for about 5hrs per day.
But yes I use 1/0 cable for the 2 batteries and to the inverter.
Today 01:05 AM
79 Posts
Joined Dec 2010
Today 01:05 AM
wailerToday 01:05 AM
79 Posts
Quote from vincent.zues1 :
So for me I currently run 2x 100ah batts on a 3k inverter. My ac runs at 1kw-1.1kw continuous. Startup is 3k-5k for a second.
I run it for about 5hrs per day.
But yes I use 1/0 cable for the 2 batteries and to the inverter.
It's great to hear that you can run an AC on a 12V inverter. Is your AC pretty new and designed for a soft start?

I don't think upgrading to a 24V system is going to make a huge difference if your goal is just to run the AC better. You'll have slightly better efficiency from a 24V inverter and your losses in the wires will be slightly less (they are proportional to the current squared time the resistance in the wire).

With two 24V 100ah batteries, you'll probably have a bit more than twice the runtime vs your existing two 12v 100ah setup.
Today 01:19 AM
279 Posts
Joined Jul 2015
Today 01:19 AM
vincent.zues1Today 01:19 AM
279 Posts
Quote from wailer :
It's great to hear that you can run an AC on a 12V inverter. Is your AC pretty new and designed for a soft start?

I don't think upgrading to a 24V system is going to make a huge difference if your goal is just to run the AC better. You'll have slightly better efficiency from a 24V inverter and your losses in the wires will be slightly less (they are proportional to the current squared time the resistance in the wire).

With two 24V 100ah batteries, you'll probably have a bit more than twice the runtime vs your existing two 12v 100ah setup.

I bought the ac a like 2023 I think. It's a portable 1 on wheels.
Idi if it's soft start or not but I would assume yes because sometimes it starts and goes to like 100 then to 3-400 then to run at 783 for a bit and slowly go up and never surge. But it's like 50/50 if it'll surge or not.
I would like to go to 24v if I can for the solar input. My charger controller stops at 860 but I have 3 375w panels but it maxes out.
If I go to 24v I can use my 4 375w panels to 1500w max.
Meaning I could run my ac even longer maybe 10/11am-7/9pm?
My thing i I thought you would need to buy a 24v inverter and then buy a modulator thing to go down to 12v but if 12v-120ac is the same as 24v-120ac then I should be good right? With just buying a new inverter and good to go like a normal plug? My charge controller is 12/24 so that's good.

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