eco-worthy-us via eBay has ECO-WORTHY 1170W Watt Solar Panel Kit Complete System on sale for $1,999.99 - $300 with coupon code SOLAR300 at checkout = $1,699.99. Shipping is free.
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eco-worthy-us via eBay has ECO-WORTHY 1170W Watt Solar Panel Kit Complete System on sale for $1,999.99 - $300 with coupon code SOLAR300 at checkout = $1,699.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Staff Member Red_Liz for sharing this deal.
With a 12v rv ac unit, i think you can run indefinitely with 1200W of solar
You would need a 24v or 48v unit for this package, depending if you parallel or series these two batteries. It looks like the controller handles both configurations.
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This is a 24V system, which is fairly good for 1500-2500W. So this is basically for a small RV a 24VDC air conditioner. Those draw about 20-40 amps and you can wire them directly to the battery bank and only use the inverter for some cooking or light AC usage. I wouldn't push more than 1800W through the inverter but that's enough to run any kitchen appliance by itself.
If you you need to draw more than 2500W, you should consider a 48V system. You'll save a lot on wiring and it'll be easier to replace parts or upgrade.
If you run 12VDC appliances, like a 12VDC fridge, lighting, USB charging panels, or most things designed for autos, you'll need to get a DC-DC converter.
This is a 24V system, which is fairly good for 1500-2500W. So this is basically for a small RV a 24VDC air conditioner. Those draw about 20-40 amps and you can wire them directly to the battery bank and only use the inverter for some cooking or light AC usage. I wouldn't push more than 1800W through the inverter but that's enough to run any kitchen appliance by itself.If you you need to draw more than 2500W, you should consider a 48V system. You'll save a lot on wiring and it'll be easier to replace parts or upgrade.If you run 12VDC appliances, like a 12VDC fridge, lighting, USB charging panels, or most things designed for autos, you'll need to get a DC-DC converter.
If I wanted to take advantage of the reduced rates at night by charging and using the battery during the day, what would be a good choice?
Please excuse my ignorance I've only run 12v system and inverter.
So if I trade and go to a 24v system is the 24v inverter to 120ac good for normal appliances? I run my ac unit off of it. Along with tv when not in summer months. Do I need anything else or does the inverter do all the changes from 24v to 12v?
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Quote
from steveragno
:
If I wanted to take advantage of the reduced rates at night by charging and using the battery during the day, what would be a good choice?
It mostly depends on what the rate difference is between day and night. Batteries have come down in price a lot, but they still run at least ~$150 per kwh. 10kwh will run $1500 for just the batteries. You still need panels, a charge controller and an inverter.
Let's say $3k for a 10kwh system, 2500W of mounted panels, 5000-Watt 48V inverter/charge controller. If you could generate and use 10kwh per day and you pay $0.10/kwh, it would take you ~9 years to break even.
Of course, you'd have a nice system that could power your house during an extended outage.
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Please excuse my ignorance I've only run 12v system and inverter.
So if I trade and go to a 24v system is the 24v inverter to 120ac good for normal appliances? I run my ac unit off of it. Along with tv when not in summer months. Do I need anything else or does the inverter do all the changes from 24v to 12v?
The 12V or 24V is just the voltage of your battery bank. If you need to run a 120V window unit AC, those generally need 1500W to run (actually quite a bit more during start up). So with 12V, you wire that could carry at least 125 amps. It's not really practical at 12V. At 24V, you'd need wire for 70 amps. Better, but that's still a lot of current.
I don't think many 12V inverters can handle the surge required to run a window AC, especially an AC that has a high start up load. You'd really want to find an inverter that could handle at least 3000W, which is most likely a 24V or 48V one.
The 12V or 24V is just the voltage of your battery bank. If you need to run a 120V window unit AC, those generally need 1500W to run (actually quite a bit more during start up). So with 12V, you wire that could carry at least 125 amps. It's not really practical at 12V. At 24V, you'd need wire for 70 amps. Better, but that's still a lot of current.
I don't think many 12V inverters can handle the surge required to run a window AC, especially an AC that has a high start up load. You'd really want to find an inverter that could handle at least 3000W, which is most likely a 24V or 48V one.
So for me I currently run 2x 100ah batts on a 3k inverter. My ac runs at 1kw-1.1kw continuous. Startup is 3k-5k for a second.
I run it for about 5hrs per day.
But yes I use 1/0 cable for the 2 batteries and to the inverter.
So for me I currently run 2x 100ah batts on a 3k inverter. My ac runs at 1kw-1.1kw continuous. Startup is 3k-5k for a second.
I run it for about 5hrs per day.
But yes I use 1/0 cable for the 2 batteries and to the inverter.
It's great to hear that you can run an AC on a 12V inverter. Is your AC pretty new and designed for a soft start?
I don't think upgrading to a 24V system is going to make a huge difference if your goal is just to run the AC better. You'll have slightly better efficiency from a 24V inverter and your losses in the wires will be slightly less (they are proportional to the current squared time the resistance in the wire).
With two 24V 100ah batteries, you'll probably have a bit more than twice the runtime vs your existing two 12v 100ah setup.
It's great to hear that you can run an AC on a 12V inverter. Is your AC pretty new and designed for a soft start?
I don't think upgrading to a 24V system is going to make a huge difference if your goal is just to run the AC better. You'll have slightly better efficiency from a 24V inverter and your losses in the wires will be slightly less (they are proportional to the current squared time the resistance in the wire).
With two 24V 100ah batteries, you'll probably have a bit more than twice the runtime vs your existing two 12v 100ah setup.
I bought the ac a like 2023 I think. It's a portable 1 on wheels.
Idi if it's soft start or not but I would assume yes because sometimes it starts and goes to like 100 then to 3-400 then to run at 783 for a bit and slowly go up and never surge. But it's like 50/50 if it'll surge or not.
I would like to go to 24v if I can for the solar input. My charger controller stops at 860 but I have 3 375w panels but it maxes out.
If I go to 24v I can use my 4 375w panels to 1500w max.
Meaning I could run my ac even longer maybe 10/11am-7/9pm?
My thing i I thought you would need to buy a 24v inverter and then buy a modulator thing to go down to 12v but if 12v-120ac is the same as 24v-120ac then I should be good right? With just buying a new inverter and good to go like a normal plug? My charge controller is 12/24 so that's good.
I bought the ac a like 2023 I think. It's a portable 1 on wheels.
Idi if it's soft start or not but I would assume yes because sometimes it starts and goes to like 100 then to 3-400 then to run at 783 for a bit and slowly go up and never surge. But it's like 50/50 if it'll surge or not.
I would like to go to 24v if I can for the solar input. My charger controller stops at 860 but I have 3 375w panels but it maxes out.
If I go to 24v I can use my 4 375w panels to 1500w max.
Meaning I could run my ac even longer maybe 10/11am-7/9pm?
My thing i I thought you would need to buy a 24v inverter and then buy a modulator thing to go down to 12v but if 12v-120ac is the same as 24v-120ac then I should be good right? With just buying a new inverter and good to go like a normal plug? My charge controller is 12/24 so that's good.
Going from a battery voltage of 24V to 120AC is done by the inverter. 24V will be better more efficient and require smaller wiring than 12V. 48V would be ideal.
Charging the battery is done by the Solar charge controller (SCC). All SCCs have an amp limit. For instance, A 50 amp one @ 12V will only allow 600W max from the panels under ideal conditions. The same SCC at 24V can charge at 1200W.
For about the same price, you can build an all-in-one 48V system with a 5kwh battery. You will reuse your panels (or add more).
FWIW, those portable ACs with hoses that vent out the window aren't the most efficient for cooling because a lot of the heat isn't blow out of the window. There are some pretty good window/wall units that have the hot side on the outside, so it's easier for them to get rid of the heat.
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank wailer
If you you need to draw more than 2500W, you should consider a 48V system. You'll save a lot on wiring and it'll be easier to replace parts or upgrade.
If you run 12VDC appliances, like a 12VDC fridge, lighting, USB charging panels, or most things designed for autos, you'll need to get a DC-DC converter.
So if I trade and go to a 24v system is the 24v inverter to 120ac good for normal appliances? I run my ac unit off of it. Along with tv when not in summer months. Do I need anything else or does the inverter do all the changes from 24v to 12v?
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Let's say $3k for a 10kwh system, 2500W of mounted panels, 5000-Watt 48V inverter/charge controller. If you could generate and use 10kwh per day and you pay $0.10/kwh, it would take you ~9 years to break even.
Of course, you'd have a nice system that could power your house during an extended outage.
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So if I trade and go to a 24v system is the 24v inverter to 120ac good for normal appliances? I run my ac unit off of it. Along with tv when not in summer months. Do I need anything else or does the inverter do all the changes from 24v to 12v?
I don't think many 12V inverters can handle the surge required to run a window AC, especially an AC that has a high start up load. You'd really want to find an inverter that could handle at least 3000W, which is most likely a 24V or 48V one.
I don't think many 12V inverters can handle the surge required to run a window AC, especially an AC that has a high start up load. You'd really want to find an inverter that could handle at least 3000W, which is most likely a 24V or 48V one.
I run it for about 5hrs per day.
But yes I use 1/0 cable for the 2 batteries and to the inverter.
I run it for about 5hrs per day.
But yes I use 1/0 cable for the 2 batteries and to the inverter.
I don't think upgrading to a 24V system is going to make a huge difference if your goal is just to run the AC better. You'll have slightly better efficiency from a 24V inverter and your losses in the wires will be slightly less (they are proportional to the current squared time the resistance in the wire).
With two 24V 100ah batteries, you'll probably have a bit more than twice the runtime vs your existing two 12v 100ah setup.
I don't think upgrading to a 24V system is going to make a huge difference if your goal is just to run the AC better. You'll have slightly better efficiency from a 24V inverter and your losses in the wires will be slightly less (they are proportional to the current squared time the resistance in the wire).
With two 24V 100ah batteries, you'll probably have a bit more than twice the runtime vs your existing two 12v 100ah setup.
Idi if it's soft start or not but I would assume yes because sometimes it starts and goes to like 100 then to 3-400 then to run at 783 for a bit and slowly go up and never surge. But it's like 50/50 if it'll surge or not.
I would like to go to 24v if I can for the solar input. My charger controller stops at 860 but I have 3 375w panels but it maxes out.
If I go to 24v I can use my 4 375w panels to 1500w max.
Meaning I could run my ac even longer maybe 10/11am-7/9pm?
My thing i I thought you would need to buy a 24v inverter and then buy a modulator thing to go down to 12v but if 12v-120ac is the same as 24v-120ac then I should be good right? With just buying a new inverter and good to go like a normal plug? My charge controller is 12/24 so that's good.
Idi if it's soft start or not but I would assume yes because sometimes it starts and goes to like 100 then to 3-400 then to run at 783 for a bit and slowly go up and never surge. But it's like 50/50 if it'll surge or not.
I would like to go to 24v if I can for the solar input. My charger controller stops at 860 but I have 3 375w panels but it maxes out.
If I go to 24v I can use my 4 375w panels to 1500w max.
Meaning I could run my ac even longer maybe 10/11am-7/9pm?
My thing i I thought you would need to buy a 24v inverter and then buy a modulator thing to go down to 12v but if 12v-120ac is the same as 24v-120ac then I should be good right? With just buying a new inverter and good to go like a normal plug? My charge controller is 12/24 so that's good.
Charging the battery is done by the Solar charge controller (SCC). All SCCs have an amp limit. For instance, A 50 amp one @ 12V will only allow 600W max from the panels under ideal conditions. The same SCC at 24V can charge at 1200W.
For about the same price, you can build an all-in-one 48V system with a 5kwh battery. You will reuse your panels (or add more).
A Will Prowse beginner build [youtube.com].
$1600 Eco-worthy 48V 5kwh all-in-one [eco-worthy.com]
FWIW, those portable ACs with hoses that vent out the window aren't the most efficient for cooling because a lot of the heat isn't blow out of the window. There are some pretty good window/wall units that have the hot side on the outside, so it's easier for them to get rid of the heat.
Good luck.
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