Woot! has
Bulk Packaging: OtterBox 60W Dual Port USB-C Charger Value Pack Bundle (Black) on sale listed below.
Shipping is free for Amazon Prime Members (
must login with your Amazon account and select a shipping address in order for Woot to apply free shipping) or is otherwise $6 per order.
Thanks to community member
wileysmiley for finding this deal
Note, product will be sold by Woot! and fulfilled by Amazon. Use the drop down menu to make your quantity selection
Product will be in new/bulk packaging
Available Option(s)
- Bulk Packaging: OtterBox 60W Dual Port USB-C Charger Value Packs (Black)
- 1 Unit for $15.99
- 2 Units for $23.99
- 3 Units for $29.99
About the Product- 60W Charger
- USB-C Power Delivery (PD)
- Compact GaN Design
- Programmable Power Supply (PPS)
- Travel-Ready Folding Prongs
- USB-IF Certified
Warranty
- Includes 90-day Woot limited warranty w/ purchase [Details]
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One Port in Use - PD:5V/9V/12V/15V20V
One Port in Use - PPS: 3.3-21V 3A (60W Max)
Two Ports in Use - PD: 5V/9V 3A, 12V 2.5A, 15V 2A, 20V 1.5A
Two Ports in Use - PPS: 3.3-11V 3A, 3.3-16V 2A (30W Max)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08288SLYR
A simple fix would be to go to Lowes/Home Depot/ACE Hardware and replace the outlet itself. It's a relatively easy DIY job, IF you are comfortable working with electrical, have access to your circuit breaker/fuse box and know how to turn off that electrical outlet to work safely.
Here is an example of the newest COMMERCIAL Grade electric outlets on the market. These hold the wires more securely than the older stick in or even screw on wiring. Even if you go with something else, ALWAYS spend the extra money and get the COMMERCIAL Grade of outlet - most cheap builders/flippers just use the cheaper residential version of an outlet to save money but that ends up with a looser outlet and eventual replacement if sticking something into it everyday over and over. Save the residential model for a lamp in a living room that never gets unplugged!
Plenty of YouTube Video's that will explain how to change an outlet...
https://www.homedepot.c
Oh, and Install your grounding hole in the DOWNWARD side to offer better leverage to your devices with three prongs. National Electric Code (NEC) does not require the grounding hole to be in any particular orientation and is legal everywhere.
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got this last time and it tends to fall off from the outlet
More than likely a combination of the weight of these things and likely due to the fact that your outlet is well used and does not have the grip it once had - I'll not add any analogies here but I think you get the point. Those holes have been used often and are no longer "tight".
A simple fix would be to go to Lowes/Home Depot/ACE Hardware and replace the outlet itself. It's a relatively easy DIY job, IF you are comfortable working with electrical, have access to your circuit breaker/fuse box and know how to turn off that electrical outlet to work safely.
Here is an example of the newest COMMERCIAL Grade electric outlets on the market. These hold the wires more securely than the older stick in or even screw on wiring. Even if you go with something else, ALWAYS spend the extra money and get the COMMERCIAL Grade of outlet - most cheap builders/flippers just use the cheaper residential version of an outlet to save money but that ends up with a looser outlet and eventual replacement if sticking something into it everyday over and over. Save the residential model for a lamp in a living room that never gets unplugged!
Plenty of YouTube Video's that will explain how to change an outlet...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Levit.../331467977
Oh, and Install your grounding hole in the DOWNWARD side to offer better leverage to your devices with three prongs. National Electric Code (NEC) does not require the grounding hole to be in any particular orientation and is legal everywhere.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Gigashadowwolf
I will critique your comment though, this isn't exactly a fix to the issue. I mean you could spend a decent amount of time and money changing your outlets to commercial grade, but that still doesn't help you when you're plugging in to a power strip, or an outlet that's not in your own home. This is a folding charger block. The folding aspect is both contributing to the problem (although you can mitigate that added contribution by simply plugging the block in upside down) and it denotes that the intended use of this block is for travel. Otherwise why would the prongs fold in if not to save space when packing? You can't very well just change every outlet in every airport, coffee shop, hotel, etc into a commercial grade outlet.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank az060693
Keep in mind that if two things are plugged in, PPS is unavailable, despite the specs listing otherwise. My Fold 6 won't do 25w PPS charging if anything else is plugged in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08288SLYR
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https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/kopp...-00086428/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08288SLYR
Having worked with several electricians over the years, recommending installation of the ground under the prongs is bad advice. If your grounded plug gets exposed there is nothing to prevent a dead short which could cause fire. With the ground prong on top, if anything hits it, there is no harm harm. If you want to be a DIY electrician think about safety over convenience.[/QUOTE]Stop armchair electrician please. Either works.While the "metal object falls on it from above" scenario might be safer with the prong up, the more likely failure mode (he said) is for the plug to be pulled partly out and start to lever out under its own weight. In this scenario prong up leads to the safety connection breaking first while the hot connection remains connected. With prong down leads to the hot connection breaking before the safety connection, which is what you want.
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