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Bambu Lab 3D Printer/Accessories Black Friday Sale: A1 $279, A1 Mini $199, P1S
$399
$699
42% off
& More + Free S/Hat Bambu Lab
Top Comments
5-inch touchscreen - I honestly could care less, the amount I use the screen is near 0, everything is controlled via wifi and the slicer.
Improved Lighting - I did end up adding better lighting to both mine but honestly this was strictly because I wanted to be able to spin around in my chair and see my prints from across the room, at no point was this a "need".
Improved Camera - again neat but I never used the camera other than to occasionally check in on my print when I was away from the house and the 2fps I was getting with the p1s was plenty to do that with.
Cooling - again awesome but I never had any problems with cooling and I printed PLA all the time with the lid on, in fact I never take the lid off and I have had 0 problems.
Guide Rods - I like the steel guide rods but the 2 seconds it took to clean the carbon rods every 100 or so hours wasnt a big deal.
Filament Handling - I printed a side mounted holder for my p1s, it is way better, 10/10 for understanding the rear spool was a terrible idea.
AI Failure detection system - I mean I'm sure its cool and all but the amount of "failures" i have had with my p1s is near 0 and most of the time it was my fault because I forgot to change what plate I was using in the settings or some other goofy thing.
New extruder - Folks this is where the money shot is, they took all the bells and whistles of the A1 series and slapped it on the refresh, the auto flow calibration on my A1 mini is chefs freaking kiss for getting insanely nice prints the clog/grinding detection is nice but honest to god I 've never had either on any of my bambu machines.
All in all you can upgrade your p1s to do damn near everything the p2s does for near nothing but I have to say unless you can get a sexy deal (like this slick deal) on a current p1s I would grab a p2s soley for the auto flow calibration, I love it on my A1 mini.
Ask me literally anything if you have any questions about the p1s or A1 mini for that matter I have literally thousands of hours on my machines.
You will have VOCs (volatile organic compounds, or "bad fumes") with every printer just from the nature of heated, broken down materials to print with. In general PLA and PETG are safe enough for you to be in the same room as the printer. The fumes I smell are little to none from my P1S, although mine is enclosed and I have HEPA filters on the vent fan in the back. I also have the Bento Box mod if I'm printing other materials besides PLA, PETG, or TPU.
The "S" in ABS and ASA is styrene. If you have ever thrown a styrofoam cup into a camp fire, you know how terrible those fumes are. You should definitely not print ABS or ASA in an occupied room without some serious air treatment. People who print stuff like this have a whole another vented enclosure around the printer to contain the VOCs. It's going to be much safer to do this in a shed or a vented garage. Same with resin. You should do this in a shed or vented garage, as well as using nitrile gloves and masks to handle it after the print.
Should you protect yourself even with PLA and PETG? Sure, but microplastics have permeated every aspects of our lives, and you have to do the calculus to determine what is an acceptable risk to you. I've accepted to have my PLA and PETG prints going in the same room as me. The carbon filled nylon prints I've done used the Bento Box mod and I didn't smell any fumes. I will not print ABS or ASA unless my printer is in a garage or shed.
Community Reviews
Bambu Lab's sale stands out as a strong entry point for easy, reliable printing, especially the P1S at $399 and the A1 or A1 Mini for beginners. The ecosystem, app printing, and MakerWorld integration make setup and model access feel simple, and the printers are praised for skipping bed leveling and tuning while delivering consistent first layers. The P1S gets extra credit for enclosure support and dependable long runs, while the A1 series is favored for easier nozzle changes and flow calibration. Main caveats are AMS pricing and packaging, since the combo often includes the first generation unit, some accessories ship separately, and multicolor printing adds waste and time.
Common Questions (5)
The AMS 2 Pro adds filament drying, which is useful if you want dry spools ready to print or already planned to buy a separate dryer. The regular AMS still handles multi-color printing and can be kept dry with desiccant, so the upgrade is most compelling if drying convenience matters to you.
Yes. It is described as a very easy, turnkey printer that removes bed leveling and tuning, and it is especially appealing if you want a reliable machine for PLA, PETG, and TPU without much tinkering. The enclosure also makes it the better pick if you may later print hotter materials like ABS.
Get the A1 if you can afford the extra cost and space, because the larger build plate lets you print more parts and avoids running into size limits later. The A1 Mini is still praised as an easy, fun starter printer, but several comments note regretting not buying the larger A1.
Yes. The A-series can now use the regular AMS with Bambu's newer connection update, and the P1S can also run AMS setups normally. For the A1, the needed adapter/dongle is mentioned as a small extra purchase.
The P1S Combo includes the first-generation AMS, not the newer AMS 2 Pro. If you want the AMS 2 Pro, you need the separate P1S AMS 2 Pro bundle or to buy the upgrade path.
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
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374 Comments
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What about filaments?
Filaments just grab PLA - PLA+ they are so easy to print almost any brand works, Matte colors although a little weaker over all show detail and hide layer lines much better so if its your first printer I promise you are going to print out so much goofy trinket stuff it isn't funny, get some matte filament, I like matte greys they really show detail nice.
brands that I personally use and can talk about (well over 50+ rolls of each)
LANDU (ELEGO and DEEPLEE) - its good, but I have a hard time with it in my AMS because they are rolled so tight when it gets to the "corner" of a spool sometimes it will pinch and cause a jam, honestly if you arnt using an AMS 0 complaints on it.
OVERTURE - 10/10 on color choices but usually a bit more expensive.
3DHOJOR - this stuff used to be budget king and their matte filaments printed soooo good but Filament prices have really came down over the last year and you can get better (see any of the other choices) for the same price
eSun- This is my filament of choice, prints great, is great, the PLA+ I literally make pew pew parts out of (eSUN pla+ is actually the preferred choice for the print your 2a community) cannot speak highly enough of this stuff
Sunlu - Brother I hate this stuff and I am in the minority I never have luck with it you will find hundreds if not thousands of people ready to get out pitch forks on how good Sunlu is but I just always have bad luck with there stuff and the quality is never as good as the others.
Kingroon - I have personally used it but I have a buddy who only buys and uses and he prints near as much as I do, so we are talking hundreds of rolls of this stuff and he hasn't said a bad thing about it, so even know I've never used it, I trust him enough to put my personal word on it.
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I love my P1S's and I would prolly get them again it just because of the form factor and that plays a huge part for me. Because the A1 has a moving bed you have to have room for that motion so it takes up more space.
If the space isn't a problem I honestly think I would get the A1 if you do not need the ability heat the chamber (printing very hot filaments like ABS and the likes) A1 would be the way to go I 100% think you will get amazing prints with both but I think the quick change nozzles and flow calibration is just too good on the A series, so good it was dead clear they were going to put that in their next generation of printers (and here we are)
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