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iBUYPOWER Element Gaming PC Desktop - AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D - NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 12GB - 32GB RAM - 2TB SSD $1499.00
$1,499
$1,899
21% off
Costco Wholesale
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Costco WholesaleDeal Details
While I would typically advocate for building your own PCs for fun and to save money these days, RAM and SSD prices are out of control. Getting these parts yourself would cost around $2,050 currently. I think once Costco sells these out It will either get more expensive or iBuyPower power will put cheaper parts for the same price.
Model EBA7N5701
AMD® Ryzen™ 7 9800X3D (Processor)
ROG Strix B650E-F (Motherboard)
PNY NVIDIA® GeForce™ RTX 5070 12GB (Graphics Card)
2TB NVMe SSD (Storage)
32GB 5200MHz RGB RAM (Memory)
¡BUYPOWER AW4 Black 360mm AIO Liquid Cooler iBUYPOWER Element 9 Black 750 Watt Power Supply (PSU)
https://www.costco.com/p/-/ibuypo...ue&nf=
Model EBA7N5701
AMD® Ryzen™ 7 9800X3D (Processor)
ROG Strix B650E-F (Motherboard)
PNY NVIDIA® GeForce™ RTX 5070 12GB (Graphics Card)
2TB NVMe SSD (Storage)
32GB 5200MHz RGB RAM (Memory)
¡BUYPOWER AW4 Black 360mm AIO Liquid Cooler iBUYPOWER Element 9 Black 750 Watt Power Supply (PSU)
https://www.costco.com/p/-/ibuypo...ue&nf=
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
While I would typically advocate for building your own PCs for fun and to save money these days, RAM and SSD prices are out of control. Getting these parts yourself would cost around $2,050 currently. I think once Costco sells these out It will either get more expensive or iBuyPower power will put cheaper parts for the same price.
Model EBA7N5701
AMD® Ryzen™ 7 9800X3D (Processor)
ROG Strix B650E-F (Motherboard)
PNY NVIDIA® GeForce™ RTX 5070 12GB (Graphics Card)
2TB NVMe SSD (Storage)
32GB 5200MHz RGB RAM (Memory)
¡BUYPOWER AW4 Black 360mm AIO Liquid Cooler iBUYPOWER Element 9 Black 750 Watt Power Supply (PSU)
https://www.costco.com/p/-/ibuypo...ue&nf=
Model EBA7N5701
AMD® Ryzen™ 7 9800X3D (Processor)
ROG Strix B650E-F (Motherboard)
PNY NVIDIA® GeForce™ RTX 5070 12GB (Graphics Card)
2TB NVMe SSD (Storage)
32GB 5200MHz RGB RAM (Memory)
¡BUYPOWER AW4 Black 360mm AIO Liquid Cooler iBUYPOWER Element 9 Black 750 Watt Power Supply (PSU)
https://www.costco.com/p/-/ibuypo...ue&nf=
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Community Reviews
This prebuilt stands out for the Ryzen 7 9800X3D and RTX 5070 combo, especially for MMO gaming at around 1440p, where the CPU headroom helps keep performance balanced. The price is also viewed as strong for a 32GB, 2TB gaming tower in a market where memory costs are climbing. Noise and setup are the main concerns, since the case fans are often wired to the CPU sensor and can run very loud until the BIOS is adjusted. Component swaps also appear possible, with motherboards and graphics cards varying from box to box, and the case leaves limited room for upgrades.
Common Questions (4)
No. The internal parts can vary by unit, with reports of MSI, ASUS, and ASRock motherboards, plus ASUS, Zotac, and other GPUs. That lottery matters because some boards are described as very basic with little or no VRM cooling.
It can run loud because the bottom case fans are sometimes tied to the CPU sensor in BIOS, which makes them ramp hard under load. Setting those fans to the motherboard sensor and using silent/standard profiles can make the system much quieter; some units also report normal temps once configured correctly.
Upgrade headroom looks limited because the PSU is 750W and the case is compact. There are two 2.5-inch SSD slots behind the rear panel, but users did not see obvious space for additional 3.5-inch HDDs or much extra expansion.
Yes, especially around 1440p. The 9800X3D provides extra CPU headroom, so this build is described as a strong match for MMOs where you are less likely to hit a GPU bottleneck.
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
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my friends came with a shitty msi board with no vrm cooling at all, and an ASUS 5070
my friends came with a shitty msi board with no vrm cooling at all, and an ASUS 5070
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When the DDR5 compatible CPUs first came out a few years ago, manufactures were swamped with returns, because of the long memory training during first boot. People thought components were defective and weren't giving the bios time to train the RAM before rebooting and trying again.
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I have always built my own gaming PCs, but I have been kind of out of the picture for the last 10 years. RGB and ubiquitous smart fans are new to me. But I love how they routed all of the wires around the case so they are invisible. I have always been faced with a birds nest of wires and it really got on my nerves. This has opened my eyes.
Initial benchmarks looked good, but as people have said noise is high when you really exercise it.
I spent some time (ok a lot of time - I'm retired
Originally, they had the AOI on a header that was throttled. That is a no-no. You shouldn't deliver lower voltage to a pump the way you might a fan. The AOI pump should be full power at all times (it's not loud). So I fixed that.
Then I found that they had all of the other fans going to the same motherboard header - the CPU FAN header. This is bad for 2 reasons. One, you are pulling 7 fans worth of current through a single header that (for my ASUS MB) is designed for 1 amp max. And two, every fan in the case is linked to the CPU temperature.
So when you run a game or benchmark or whatever, the CPU heats up, and all 7 fans instantly go to max. That's not what you want. You want the liquid cooler fans to go faster to pull the heat off, but if the other fans can bleed that heat off based on the actual temperature in the case, they don't really need to go to max.
So I pulled all of the case fans off of the CPU FAN header and put them on their own headers (there are 4 headers total on my ASUS MB).
Then I could set the case fans to ramp up based on the Motherboard temp, not the CPU temp. That change made the PC absolutely silent at idle, and a low hum when running Cinebench. In summer, everything could be a bit warmer and therefore louder, but will still be much less than the way they originally configured the PC.
Next step is to work on undervolting and overclocking this beast!
I have always built my own gaming PCs, but I have been kind of out of the picture for the last 10 years. RGB and ubiquitous smart fans are new to me. But I love how they routed all of the wires around the case so they are invisible. I have always been faced with a birds nest of wires and it really got on my nerves. This has opened my eyes.
Initial benchmarks looked good, but as people have said noise is high when you really exercise it.
I spent some time (ok a lot of time - I'm retired
Originally, they had the AOI on a header that was throttled. That is a no-no. You shouldn't deliver lower voltage to a pump the way you might a fan. The AOI pump should be full power at all times (it's not loud). So I fixed that.
Then I found that they had all of the other fans going to the same motherboard header - the CPU FAN header. This is bad for 2 reasons. One, you are pulling 7 fans worth of current through a single header that (for my ASUS MB) is designed for 1 amp max. And two, every fan in the case is linked to the CPU temperature.
So when you run a game or benchmark or whatever, the CPU heats up, and all 7 fans instantly go to max. That's not what you want. You want the liquid cooler fans to go faster to pull the heat off, but if the other fans can bleed that heat off based on the actual temperature in the case, they don't really need to go to max.
So I pulled all of the case fans off of the CPU FAN header and put them on their own headers (there are 4 headers total on my ASUS MB).
Then I could set the case fans to ramp up based on the Motherboard temp, not the CPU temp. That change made the PC absolutely silent at idle, and a low hum when running Cinebench. In summer, everything could be a bit warmer and therefore louder, but will still be much less than the way they originally configured the PC.
Next step is to work on undervolting and overclocking this beast!
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First, find the AIO Pump. It's a cupcake sized doohickey that sits over the CPU. It has a small power cable. Make sure that it goes to the "AOI_Pump" header on the motherboard (MB). If not, move it there.
Next, if your motherboard is like mine, all of the case fans are daisy chained together and are eventually connected to the "CPU_FAN" header on the MB.
First, find the connector for the rear case fan at the top/back of the case. This fan will actually have 2 connectors: a four wire cable for power/speed, and a three wire cable for LED lights.
Unplug the four-wire cable from whatever it's connected to, and plug it into the Chassis Fan 1 MB header (or whatever header is nearest). On my PC, the rear case fan was connected via a bunch of cable extenders to the Chassis Fan 4 header. Since we moved that to chassis fan 1, I was able to unplug that connector from the Chassis Fan 4 header.
Leave the LED lighting header (3-wires) where it is. Those are totally unimportant.
Then, you want to remove the bottom case fans from their daisy-chain power connections, and put them onto the motherboard chassis fan headers 2, 3, and 4.
So, trace each cable from the bottom case fans. They should all go to headers that eventually lead to the "CPU-FAN" header. Each time you find one, unplug it, and then plug it into one of the chassis fan headers on the MB (CHA_FAN2, 3, or 4). Again, you only need to unplug and move the 4-wire power/speed connectors. The 3-wire LED connectors can be left alone.
Next, go into the bios (press del or F2 while booting), and go into fan control.
Set AIO_PUMP speed to "FULL POWER" if it's not already there.
Set Chassis fan 1, 2, 3, and 4 to the "Motherboard" temp source. And speed should be "Standard".
The CPU_Fan header should already be set to CPU temp source. Speed should also be "Standard".
Once you do this, verify that all of the fans are still spinning. And when you run a benchmark, the CPU liquid cooler fans should speed up a lot; the others should only speed up if the room/motherboard are pretty warm.
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