https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KVKMC4R/
NEMA 14-50r flush mounting kitchen electric range dryer shop receptacle. 125/250V 50 Amp 3 pole 4 wire. Terminals accept 10, 8, 6, and 4 gauge Copper Wires (AWG), UL approved.
Edit: As originally posted this is not recommended for EV charging. DIY: To be code compliant a 14-50r should only be installed on 4 wire grounding circuits which the NEC began requiring in 1999. Use only the 10-50r or another compliant receptacle on a 3 wire system.
Tip: for EV and outdoor locations choose a receptacle made for that purpose however this
can serve as an emergency temporary spare.
EDIT: The advice above that this receptacle is NOT for EV charging or outdoor use was included to save members the trouble of repeating it. Cook tops and dryers are typically on 30 amp circuits in older homes. 30 amps is 40% less than the U.L. approved 50 amp rating of this receptacle meaning that there is plenty of safety overhead for the typical range. It's a disservice to the less technical members of our community to advise them to spend $75 -$150 for a continuous duty receptacle on circuits which are protected by 30 amp breakers.
If you wish to be helpful then edit your comment to give the correct information. People who use welders already know what they need. For $4 this is nice to have as an emergency spare for temporary use because even heavy duty EV rated outlets fail without warning.
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Advising people to waste money on a continuous duty rated outlet for a 30 amp cook top is not slick. This is not going to melt when used to connect a cook top. That's 40% less amperage and it is only intermittent duty.
Cook tops and standard ranges are typically on 30 or 40 amp circuits especially in older homes. Secondly, unlike EV charging, there is no constant plugging and unplugging to cause rapid wear to the receptacle.
People often ask if it is O.K. to install a 50 amp outlet on a 30 amp range circuit. Yes the circuit is still protected by the breaker however you would want to ensure that the location has four wires going back to the panel with a dedicated ground to meet code when installing a NEMA 14-50r. Older homes may only have 2 hot wires and a neutral and no ground at the range location. You don't want to install a 4 wire grounding receptacle which has nothing attached to the grounding lug even if your three wire cook top will work fine with the installation.
People, read the posts before you comment. For the use intended, cook tops, standard ranges and intermittent duty this U.L. approved receptacle is perfectly fine. Edit your posts to give the correct information if you wish to be of service to the community.
Hello friend. Allow me to suggest that you read the post which states that this is not for EV or outdoor use. This was included to save members like yourself the trouble of repeating it.
Advising people to waste money on a continuous duty rated outlet for a 30 amp cook top is not slick. This is not going to melt when used to connect a cook top. That's 40% less amperage and it is only intermittent duty.
Cook tops and standard ranges are typically on 30 or 40 amp circuits especially in older homes. Secondly, unlike EV charging, there is no constant plugging and unplugging to cause rapid wear to the receptacle.
People often ask if it is O.K. to install a 50 amp outlet on a 30 amp range circuit. Yes the circuit is still protected by the breaker however you would want to ensure that the location has four wires going back to the panel with a dedicated ground to meet code when installing a NEMA 14-50r. Older homes may only have 2 hot wires and a neutral and no ground at the range location. You don't want to install a 4 wire grounding receptacle which has nothing attached to the grounding lug even if your three wire cook top will work fine with the installation.
Nobody - and I mean NOBODY - should be installing this. Anyone who knows enough to install this circuit themselves wouldn't, and anyone paying someone to have this installed will have spent hundreds (if not thousands) to have the job done right, it makes zero sense to cheap out on the one piece of kit that's going to be installed for the duration.
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Nobody - and I mean NOBODY - should be installing this. Anyone who knows enough to install this circuit themselves wouldn't, and anyone paying someone to have this installed will have spent hundreds (if not thousands) to have the job done right, it makes zero sense to cheap out on the one piece of kit that's going to be installed for the duration.
Edit: This thread is not about home owners or landlords upgrading 30 amp kitchen range circuits to 50 amp wiring. In that use case you install a higher grade outlet. This is posted as a replacement kitchen or dryer outlet for use in older homes with 30 amp kitchen and dryer circuits and 4 wire systems. That's 7,200 watts which is, on average, the most any professional chef uses combined at one time. Very few people use 12 kilowatts at their range to cook meals. For $4 it's also great for many shop tools.
A range circuit protected by a 30 amp breaker is extremely common in older homes and it can't deliver more than 30 amps. In our home the range, the wall oven, the electric dryer and the 40 gallon electric water heater are ALL on their own dedicated 30 amp circuits.
A modern home may have a 40 or 50 amp kitchen circuit however the vast majority of U.S. homes are not so equipped. The advice you should be giving owners who are replacing kitchen range outlets is to check their breaker panel and the appliance rating tag.
"thousands" charged by an electrician to replace kitchen receptacle? LOL!
Wrong. You are doing a disservice to the less technical members of the community by posting disinformation. A 30 amp cook top can't draw more than 30 amps which is 40% less than the U.L. approved rating for this receptacle.
Edit: This thread is not about home owners or landlords upgrading 30 amp kitchen range circuits to 50 amp wiring. In that use case you install a higher grade outlet. This is posted as a replacement kitchen or dryer outlet for use in older homes with 30 amp kitchen and dryer circuits and 4 wire systems. That's 7,200 watts which is, on average, the most any professional chef uses combined at one time. Very few people use 12 kilowatts at their range to cook meals. For $4 it's also great for many shop tools.
A range circuit protected by a 30 amp breaker is extremely common in older homes and it can't deliver more than 30 amps. In our home the range, the wall oven, the electric dryer and the 40 gallon electric water heater are ALL on their own dedicated 30 amp circuits.
A modern home may have a 40 or 50 amp kitchen circuit however the vast majority of U.S. homes are not so equipped. The advice you should be giving owners who are replacing kitchen range outlets is to check their breaker panel and the appliance rating tag.
"thousands" charged by an electrician to replace kitchen receptacle? LOL!
Someone who has new 240V service run to a kitchen that was previously not electric or not induction (thus requiring an upgrade) would easily incur costs into the thousands. Same for someone who ran service for a welding station which previously didn't exist.
I highly doubt this $4 piece of junk is legitimately UL listed. Anyone who buys it instead of one from a reputable manufacturer needs their head examined, especially if they're trusting Amazon to vet the authenticity of UL listings of their products.
One of the principal reasons Underwriters Laboratories was formed in 1894 was to avoid the need for people to engage in long, acrimonious arguments based on hearsay and anecdote.
One of the principal reasons Underwriters Laboratories was formed in 1894 was to avoid the need for people to engage in long, acrimonious arguments based on hearsay and anecdote.
One of the principal reasons Underwriters Laboratories was formed in 1894 was to avoid the need for people to engage in long, acrimonious arguments based on hearsay and anecdote.
Code does not require an appliance rated connector for charging and shop use so you also have the option of using alternate connectors like 6-50 which is 250v only and does not use neutral or the CS6369 if you need both 120 and 240. This is great news and I'm sure "crazy" is in his kitchen as I type ripping out his receptacle and hard-wiring his range to keep his house from burning down.
Five different 14-50r receptacles were sent to me from 5 different sellers on Amazon, all under $13. They appear to be identical each weighing 154-155 g. They seem to originate from two different Chinese factories. You're getting the same thing here with a $9 savings. The Chinese made Leviton isn't any better quality.
The device with superior conductor retention lasts longer due to less resistance and less heat build up. For $150 more you get hex head screws which can be torqued properly using U-groove clamping and more mass to dissipate heat. This provides resistance to the screw loosening up over many heating-cooling expansion cycles. The one style to avoid is where the screw mashes down directly on the wire instead of clamping between two plates.
Thousands of pp are using $13 outlets as replacements for range outlets without issue. Landlords use them. Contractors use them in new construction in the apartment complexes going up here. It's easy enough to check the plug on your range for excessive heat. It's your money. Spend it as you like. No one knows better than you how many burners you run at one time or for how long.
If had a 14-50r EV charging set up and regularly draw over 40 amps then I would buy this for use as a temporary emergency spare because all 14-50r receptacles will fail sooner or later typically without warning.
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