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iconian | Staff 13.1K Views
Feb 27, 2026 9:19 PM

10" Jamo S 810 Subwoofer (Black or Walnut)

$99

$379

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Adorama has 10" Jamo S 810 Subwoofer for $379 - $280 when you apply coupon code JHCE2491 at checkout (apply under the Payment section) = $99. Shipping is free.

Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for sharing this deal.

Available in:Features:
  • 10" polyfiber woofer
  • 150W bottom mounted class D amplifier
  • Ultra slim cabinet
  • Bass reflex via slot port

Editor's Notes

Written by citan359 | Staff
  • This offer matches a recent Frontpage Deal.
  • Rated 4.5 out of 5 stars based on 54 customer reviews.
  • Please see the original post for additional details & give the forum comments a read for helpful discussion.

Original Post

Written by iconian | Staff
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Adorama has 10" Jamo S 810 Subwoofer for $379 - $280 when you apply coupon code JHCE2491 at checkout (apply under the Payment section) = $99. Shipping is free.

Thanks to Deal Editor iconian for sharing this deal.

Available in:Features:
  • 10" polyfiber woofer
  • 150W bottom mounted class D amplifier
  • Ultra slim cabinet
  • Bass reflex via slot port

Editor's Notes

Written by citan359 | Staff
  • This offer matches a recent Frontpage Deal.
  • Rated 4.5 out of 5 stars based on 54 customer reviews.
  • Please see the original post for additional details & give the forum comments a read for helpful discussion.

Original Post

Written by iconian | Staff

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Top Comments

WoodSlayR
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No. Its not rated to only go down to 36hz max. Thatsnot how that number works. The volume doesn't just disappear at frequencies below 36hz. 36hz is the 3db down point. It's where the frequency starts to roll off but not just stop playing completely. Depending on severity of the slope or rolloff, like if it continued at 3db per octave, it would be just another minus 3db at 1 octave below 36hz which is 18hz, (ie: if it was playing 118db at 36hz, it would play 115db at 18hz, this is how a 3db per octave slope works) so it could still easily extend below 36hz, just not as loud. I'm not sure how much useful volume you could realistically expect out of a budget 75-watt RMS 10" sub at or below 36hz, especially in an open room, where you get no cabin gain like you would in a car but anyways, the point of what I'm saying is the 36hz cutoff point is where the level starts to roll off, (-3db to be exact) not where it completely stops.
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aintaboutdislife
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In before the audio elitists come here and say their $300+ subwoofer performs much better than this. Well obviously.

However at $100 new this is still a fair value and good enough for something like pairing it with cheapo around $100 bookshelf speakers or a soundbar with sub out for use on a computer desk or a tiny bedroom and you aren't going to playing any audio at high volumes. Having a subwoofer is still better than no subwoofer at all, especially with speakers that have tiny 5" or smaller drivers.

Just be aware this sub is only rated to go as low as 36 hz max. Perhaps it is due to the slim form factor since I've seen even budget 8" subs be able to hit around 30hz and other budget 10" subs hit 25hz.
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Zorba1446
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The large majority of music doesn't go below 40Hz, so 36Hz would be ok. Movies are where you'd want something that can extend to 20-30Hz, or even lower if you want the "felt" sort of bass effects.
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Community Reviews

The Jamo S 810 is a slim 10-inch subwoofer that fits well under a desk or in a tight room, and it adds solid low end for small bookshelf speakers, soundbars with sub out, and computer setups. At around $100, it is described as a fair value for music and casual movie use, with enough bass for games and everyday listening. The main limitation is its 36 Hz roll-off, which keeps it from delivering the deepest movie effects or wall-rattling output. The coupon also appears to be expired, so the deal may no longer work.

Common Questions (5)

  • Yes. It is a good fit for a computer desk, tiny bedroom, or office because the slim cabinet fits in tight spaces and adds useful low end without needing high volume. It pairs well with small bookshelf speakers and powered speakers like the Micca PB42X or Dayton M4.

    aintaboutdislifedarettDC_HokieOld-Parr

  • 36 Hz is the -3 dB roll-off point, not a hard cutoff, so it can still play below that frequency at lower output. It is generally fine for music, while movies benefit more from deeper 20-30 Hz extension for the strongest "felt" bass effects.

    WoodSlayRZorba1446pcrh

  • No, it is not a wall-rattling sub like higher-end models. It is better suited to modest bass reinforcement for music, desks, and small rooms than to the deepest movie effects or very loud playback.

    darettZorba1446aintaboutdislife

  • At about $100 new, it is considered a fair value for adding bass to small speakers or a soundbar with sub out. It is especially attractive if you want a compact sub for low-volume listening rather than maximum output.

    aintaboutdislifescythexAlexK6706

  • No. The coupon code appears to be expired, with checkout showing "This promotion has expired," and the deal was reported dead afterward.

    jmb1023kevinca

AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago

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Feb 28, 2026 6:21 PM
367 Comments
Joined Jul 2016
pcrhFeb 28, 2026 6:21 PM
367 Comments
Quote from WoodSlayR View quoted comment :
No. Its not rated to only go down to 36hz max. Thatsnot how that number works. The volume doesn't just disappear at frequencies below 36hz. 36hz is the 3db down point. It's where the frequency starts to roll off but not just stop playing completely. Depending on severity of the slope or rolloff, like if it continued at 3db per octave, it would be just another minus 3db at 1 octave below 36hz which is 18hz, (ie: if it was playing 118db at 36hz, it would play 115db at 18hz, this is how a 3db per octave slope works) so it could still easily extend below 36hz, just not as loud. I'm not sure how much useful volume you could realistically expect out of a budget 75-watt RMS 10" sub at or below 36hz, especially in an open room, where you get no cabin gain like you would in a car anyways. But the point of what I'm saying is the 36hz cutoff point is where the level starts to roll off, (-3db to be exact) not where its nonexistent.
agree with your science. Also correct in practise - I have this jamo sub and it defiantly goes below 36 Hz, the opening scene of "Oppenheimer" is a fantastic test.
Thanks OP. I just bought a second one, because, why not: my receiver supports 2x sub outputs and plenty more room behind my couch for the 2nd.
Feb 28, 2026 6:25 PM
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lil_dixonFeb 28, 2026 6:25 PM
9 Comments
Good deal
Feb 28, 2026 6:28 PM
367 Comments
Joined Jul 2016
pcrhFeb 28, 2026 6:28 PM
367 Comments
Quote from sillyxone View quoted comment :
Agreed. Been pairing the S810 with the KEF Q1 Meta as the Q1 does its best at the mid and high (using the port bung and let the Jamo handles the low for even better clarity). The slim form factor allows easy position under the desk. Not hitting below 36Hz makes the Jamo fast and precise for music as it doesn't have to linger for the rumbling sub-30Hz.

When in doubt if your music ever goes below 36Hz, just load the file into Audacity and open its Spectrum Analyzer.
I have the Jamo S810 pared with KEF Q550 fronts, CI80QR in wall rears, Q250 center. The S810 placed behind the couch is great for movies. For music I switch to direct 2ch out the fronts only as they have bass drivers and matched cross over.
I agree for bookshelf fronts like the Q1 , to not overwork them, a sub on all the time is a very useful addition.
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Feb 28, 2026 8:00 PM
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WoodSlayR
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Feb 28, 2026 8:00 PM
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank

Quote from pcrh View quoted comment :
agree with your science. Also correct in practise - I have this jamo sub and it defiantly goes below 36 Hz, the opening scene of "Oppenheimer" is a fantastic test.
Thanks OP. I just bought a second one, because, why not: my receiver supports 2x sub outputs and plenty more room behind my couch for the 2nd.
Why not? I like your reasoning. More subs is always better then fewer subs. Some people might think to themselves, all I need is 1 but the thing is, no sub no matter how great a sub is, it wont play perfectly all the way down to the lowest of lowest notes and as loud as you'd like. (the typical human ear can perceive sound all the way down to 20hz) All subs lose volume the lower into the frequency spectrum you go. So how can we compensate? The easiest way is to simply add more subwoofers. If your subs are only dipping down to 30hz but you want it louder at 30hz. Adding another identical sub will increase your overall volume at 30hz by 3db. easy peasy. Another thing about speakers.. Going from 1 to 2 is about as efficient of a volume increase as you can get. Why? because doubling your cone area with identical power will give you a 3db increase in volume. (ei: 1 sub to 2 subs yield a 3 dB gain). To climb even higher and get another 3db gain, you'd have to double cone area again, & go from 2 subs to 4 subs to yield the same 3db gain difference as you did the first increase. You want another 3db? 4 subs to 8 subs and so on. To gain 3db of volume you essentially need to do 1 of 2 things. You can either double the amplifier power to the speakers you have,or double your surface/cone area with equal power. This is why it's so difficult to build competition level car for db spl competition. Once these cars are getting into multiple subs, like 30 subs for example and 30kw of power, getting a 3db increase from a setup like this becomes nearly impossible. I've been a car audio aficionado since the 80s, when I first became MECP certified. An example of how far things have come. Waaay way back in 1993, Mark Fukuda set the USAC world record for the loudest vehicle in the world. He registered a 156.7db. He accomplished this feat at Spring Break Nationals in Daytona beach FL in 1993. I was there. At the time he was running 8k watts & 16 15" RF subs in his famous bright yellow chevy s-10 blazer, not the full size one. Back then we thought 160db was an impossible feat because it took so much to crack the 150's. Nowadays, cars are hitting 180db which I would have told you back then is impossible. Advancements in subwoofer, amplifier, and battery technology has come a long ways. Nowadays, cars are routinely hitting 150db+ with a pair of 12's which is absolutely insane, especially when you understand how hard 150+ was to get in the 90's. Long story short, the best bang for your buck you can get is to go with 2 speakers/subs. 2 speakers of any kind is the sweet spot. Beyond that, you'll have to pay increasingly more & more for the same 3db gain.

I come from an era where paying 1 dollar per watt was typical. 1000watt amp? thats going to be a thousand bucks, or more. Even crazier is when you adjust for inflation, $1000 in 1990 is worth $2,503 in 2025 money. So that would be like paying $2.50 per watt today & compare that to today when you can typically get 1000 watts for about a hundred bucks, or just 1 penny per watt. Kids today have no idea how hard we had to work to get decent bass in our rides. The struggle was real.
Last edited by WoodSlayR February 28, 2026 at 04:20 PM.
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Mar 1, 2026 2:11 AM
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Zorba1446
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Mar 1, 2026 2:11 AM
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Quote from etiel View quoted comment :
Any recommendation for bookshelf speakers that have a sub out to pair these with?
I don't know of any active bookshelves that have BASS MANAGEMENT (a.k.a. "high pass filter") with their subwoofer outputs. So you'd simply end up with "double bass" which imo defeats the main benefit of having a sub to begin with: to take a massive load off the amp/receiver AND the speakers by doing most of the low frequencies itself.

If you are 100% set on active speakers, the only way I know of to get around that is to get a pre-amp that has bass management. Two examples:
https://a.co/d/03lizdJr
and
https://a.co/d/04ZzROZV
But it'd be cheaper to buy a pair of passive speakers with a mini-amp that has HPF. Example: https://a.co/d/03AN6RPM
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Mar 1, 2026 4:21 AM
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WoodSlayR
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Mar 1, 2026 4:21 AM
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Quote from Zorba1446 View quoted comment :
I don't know of any active bookshelves that have BASS MANAGEMENT (a.k.a. "high pass filter") with their subwoofer outputs. So you'd simply end up with "double bass" which imo defeats the main benefit of having a sub to begin with: to take a massive load off the amp/receiver AND the speakers by doing most of the low frequencies itself.

If you are 100% set on active speakers, the only way I know of to get around that is to get a pre-amp that has bass management. Two examples:
https://a.co/d/03lizdJr
and
https://a.co/d/04ZzROZV
But it'd be cheaper to buy a pair of passive speakers with a mini-amp that has HPF. Example: https://a.co/d/03AN6RPM
Wait, what huh? Active bookshelves that have bass management, aka A high-pass filter? huh? All a high-pass filter does is exactly what the name implies: it lets high frequencies pass through, while blocking low frequencies. Thats all it does. What are you even talking about? Unless it's a subsonic high-pass filter set to around 20-25ish Hz or lower, it is literally the exact opposite of what you want on subwoofer outputs.
Last edited by WoodSlayR March 1, 2026 at 12:45 AM.
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Mar 1, 2026 4:39 PM
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Zorba1446
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Mar 1, 2026 4:39 PM
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Quote from WoodSlayR View quoted comment :
Wait, what huh? Active bookshelves that have bass management, aka A high-pass filter? huh? All a high-pass filter does is exactly what the name implies: it lets high frequencies pass through, while blocking low frequencies. Thats all it does. What are you even talking about? Unless it's a subsonic high-pass filter set to around 20-25ish Hz or lower, it is literally the exact opposite of what you want on subwoofer outputs.
HPF = it filters out the low frequencies (usually a 12-24db slope) so that only the subwoofer does the bass, leaving the speakers to do the mids and highs which they invariably do much much better especially when freed from the burden of doing the bass.

Most active speakers simply send the same full frequency signal to the sub, leaving the sub's LOW pass filter to cut out the higher frequencies that the sub can't/shouldn't reproduce.

Clear enough?
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Mar 1, 2026 5:14 PM
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AlexK6706Mar 1, 2026 5:14 PM
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Thanks OP. Got one for my office room. My Dayton Audio M4 have sub out which is a pleasant surprise. This will help me fully appreciate the bass of my boss on that zoom meeting.
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Mar 1, 2026 8:29 PM
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WoodSlayR
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Mar 1, 2026 8:29 PM
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Quote from Zorba1446 View quoted comment :
HPF = it filters out the low frequencies (usually a 12-24db slope) so that only the subwoofer does the bass, leaving the speakers to do the mids and highs which they invariably do much much better especially when freed from the burden of doing the bass.

Most active speakers simply send the same full frequency signal to the sub, leaving the sub's LOW pass filter to cut out the higher frequencies that the sub can't/shouldn't reproduce.

Clear enough?
Just about everyone knows what a high-pass filter is. You understand how it works, you just need to work on your wording on how to explain it correctly. You said HPF = it filters out the low frequencies (usually a 12-24db slope) so that only the subwoofer does the bass is confusing. Problem with this wording is a HPF is used directly with midrange and higher speakers. A HPF has no direct correlation or effect on a subwoofer. You use a LPF with subwoofers. Wording details like this is important. You dont want anything that filters out low frequencies on your sub unless its an ultrasonic HPF set to like 20-30ish hz or so. .
Last edited by WoodSlayR March 1, 2026 at 02:33 PM.
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Mar 1, 2026 9:31 PM
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Zorba1446
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Quote from WoodSlayR View quoted comment :
Just about everyone knows what a high-pass filter is. You understand how it works, you just need to work on your wording on how to explain it correctly. You said HPF = it filters out the low frequencies (usually a 12-24db slope) so that only the subwoofer does the bass is confusing. Problem with this wording is a HPF is used directly with midrange and higher speakers. It has no direct correlation to subwoofers. You use a LPF with subwoofers. Wording details like this is important. You dont want anything that filters out low frequencies on your sub unless its an ultrasonic HPF set to like 20-30ish hz or so. .
šŸ˜† Seriously? Pedantic much?

My point stands: for @etiel it's a better idea to either get a pre-amp that has its own HPF like the Fosi ZP3 I linked to, or simply use passive speakers with a mini-amp that has an HPF of its own.

If you have some disagreement with that, let's hear it shall we?
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Mar 1, 2026 9:35 PM
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WoodSlayR
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Mar 1, 2026 9:35 PM
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Quote from Zorba1446 View quoted comment :
šŸ˜† Seriously? Pedantic much?

My point stands: for @etiel it's a better idea to either get a pre-amp that has its own HPF like the Fosi ZP3 I linked to, or simply use passive speakers with a mini-amp that has an HPF of its own.

If you have some disagreement with that, let's hear it shall we?
Knowing what your talking about and verbally explaining it so others understand are 2 different thing my man. 2 completely different skillsets. You could be the most knowledgeable person in the world when it comes to a subject, but that doesn't mean you know how to explain it to somebody that doesn't have the same basic foundation as you. What you said is just confusing.
Last edited by WoodSlayR March 2, 2026 at 10:23 AM.
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Mar 1, 2026 9:37 PM
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AlexK6706Mar 1, 2026 9:37 PM
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People pretending to be audio scientists in $100 sub thread are hilarious.
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Mar 1, 2026 9:37 PM
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Zorba1446
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Quote from WoodSlayR View quoted comment :
Knowing what your talking about and verbally explaining it so others understand are 2 different thing my man. 2 completely different skillsets. You could be the most knowledgeable person in the world when it comes to a subject, but that doesn't mean you know how to explain it to somebody that doesn't have the same basic foundation as you. What you said is just confusing to most people.
Oh so now YOU have just appointed yourself the Slick Deals comment moderator and linguistic expert who can judge whose postings are adequately clear while claiming to have understood it anyway? Congrats on the new position. You get full medical and retirement benefits? LOL
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WoodSlayR
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Quote from Zorba1446 View quoted comment :
Oh so now YOU have just appointed yourself the Slick Deals comment moderator and linguistic expert who can judge whose postings are adequately clear while claiming to have understood it anyway? Congrats on the new position. You get full medical and retirement benefits? LOL
Look dude. You saying "HPF = it filters out the low frequencies so that only the subwoofer does the bass" Is just flat out wrong. A high pass filter removes low frequencies so that a midrange/tweeter doesn't have to play low frequencies. It has zero correlation to a subwoofer. A hpf doesn't make it so a subwoofer only has to play bass, that's ridiculous. A LPF makes it so a subwoofer only has to play bass. Work on your wording. It's super confusing. I'm lucky because I already have a good understanding of how it works but if I didn't and listened to you, My head would be spinning.
Last edited by WoodSlayR March 1, 2026 at 03:04 PM.

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Mar 1, 2026 10:03 PM
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Zorba1446
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Quote from WoodSlayR View quoted comment :
You saying "HPF = it filters out the low frequencies so that only the subwoofer does the bass" Is just flat out wrong.
A high pass filter removes low frequencies so that a midrange/tweeter doesn't have to play low frequencies
So your getting your panties in a wad because of my using "filters out low frequencies" as opposed ot your "removes low frequencies" --- ROTFL, this is getting stupider and stupider by the minute.

And btw, you can use a HPF even when there is no sub, just to spare your speakers and amp the burden of reproducing the low frequencies. That's exactly what I have always done in all of my cars even when I don't have a sub, because the OEM speakers sound much better that way. That's what I would do in my home theater as well if I didn't have a sub but didn't want to risk damaging my speakers during high-LFE scenes if listening at high SPLs.
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