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Select Advance Auto Parts Stores: 1-Qt Idemitsu ATF Transmission Fluid (Various)
$1.95
$16
87% off
+ Free Pickupat Advance Auto Parts
+ Free Pickupat Advance Auto PartsDeal Details
Select Advance Auto Parts Stores have 1-Quart Idemitsu ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid (Various) on sale as listed below for $1.95. Select free store pickup where stock permits.
Thanks to Community Member E4300 for sharing this deal.
Note: Availability may vary by location and stock may be limited.
Available:
Thanks to Community Member E4300 for sharing this deal.
Note: Availability may vary by location and stock may be limited.
Available:
- Type H Plus (DW-1 and Z-1, 30040090-75000C)
- Type H (ATF Z-1, 10116-042)
- Type TLS (ATF T-IV, 30040093-75000C)
- CVTF Type N (JATCO CVTs NS-2, 30040091-75000C)
- Type S (Nissan/Infiniti Automatic Transmissions with Matic-S/J/D, 30040101-75000C)
- Type HP (SUBARU ATF HP, 30040099-75000C)
- Type TLS-LV (Toyota WS, 30040096-75000C)
- Type J (Nissan and Infiniti Matic J ATF (including Matic D and Matic K) & Select Hyundai, Kia, Jaguar and Mitsubishi, 30040095-75000C)
Editor's Notes
Written by Nate650 | Staff- Please see the original post for additional details & give the wiki and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion.
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Select Advance Auto Parts Stores have 1-Quart Idemitsu ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid (Various) on sale as listed below for $1.95. Select free store pickup where stock permits.
Thanks to Community Member E4300 for sharing this deal.
Note: Availability may vary by location and stock may be limited.
Available:
Thanks to Community Member E4300 for sharing this deal.
Note: Availability may vary by location and stock may be limited.
Available:
- Type H Plus (DW-1 and Z-1, 30040090-75000C)
- Type H (ATF Z-1, 10116-042)
- Type TLS (ATF T-IV, 30040093-75000C)
- CVTF Type N (JATCO CVTs NS-2, 30040091-75000C)
- Type S (Nissan/Infiniti Automatic Transmissions with Matic-S/J/D, 30040101-75000C)
- Type HP (SUBARU ATF HP, 30040099-75000C)
- Type TLS-LV (Toyota WS, 30040096-75000C)
- Type J (Nissan and Infiniti Matic J ATF (including Matic D and Matic K) & Select Hyundai, Kia, Jaguar and Mitsubishi, 30040095-75000C)
Editor's Notes
Written by Nate650 | Staff- Please see the original post for additional details & give the wiki and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion.
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Top Comments
The transmission is essentially a sealed system (minus the vent valve). Therefore, controlling fluid temperature and cleanliness will dramatically improve transmission life. CHANGE ATF OFTEN. Drain and refill. Avoid flushing operation. Drain/refill will usually replace 25% to 30% of total fluid capacity.
Idemitsu is, and has been for decades, an official O.E. supplier of engine oils and transmission fluids to leading Japanese vehicle manufacturers such as Toyota, Subaru, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Lexus, Infiniti, Honda and Acura.
https://www.idemitsulub
Community Reviews
Idemitsu ATF is being discussed as a close match for Toyota WS and other Japanese automatic transmission fluids, with the main appeal being inexpensive drain and refill maintenance rather than a full flush. The strongest guidance favors changing fluid often, replacing only part of the capacity each time, and keeping the transmission clean and cool. The main caution is that very old fluid or worn clutch packs can make a fresh change feel slippery, so gradual drain and refill steps are preferred over flushing. It is a practical low cost maintenance fluid for careful service intervals.
Common Questions (6)
WS is commonly used as a drain-and-fill replacement for T-IV and can work without issues in many Toyota transmissions. It is thinner than T-IV and not officially treated as a direct backward-compatible substitute, so a cautious partial drain-and-fill is the safer approach if you choose to use it.
Drain-and-fill is the preferred method here; flushing is repeatedly discouraged because it can dislodge debris and abruptly change ATF friction properties. A drain-and-fill typically replaces only about 25% to 30% of the fluid, so repeated partial changes are used to refresh the fluid more gradually.
A frequent schedule of about every 25,000 to 30,000 miles is recommended, with some owners doing 1 quart at a time until the fluid looks clean. The idea is to keep the ATF clean and stable rather than waiting for very old fluid to accumulate heat and contaminants.
Fresh ATF can sometimes reveal or worsen slipping in a worn clutch pack because old fluid has more friction. For very old fluid, a gradual 1/2 to 1 quart drain-and-refill with a short drive between changes is suggested to reduce the chance of a sudden friction change.
Idemitsu Type H-Plus is described as close to Honda DW-1, but not identical, and some newer Hondas may not accept it well. For the least risk, OEM DW-1 is the safer choice; Idemitsu is more of an emergency or budget alternative.
Use an IR thermometer or temperature gun and target about 105-110°F at the bottom of the ATF pan, with the car level. That temperature window is used to set the fluid level accurately during the drain-and-fill process.
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
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50 Comments
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Check out YT engine tear downs. All have some sort of metal filter mesh (non-degradable) at the intake tube, No other filter element found in the case.
Real story of an individual who flushed a high mileage transmission. His band-aid fix is to restore the friction property of the ATF. Physics works when properly executed!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOB3BLx-9IQ
Regarding fresh fluid. Best to replace 1/3. Then drive. Replace 1/3.
I change about 2 quarts every 4000K . Works fine that way.
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Regarding fresh fluid. Best to replace 1/3. Then drive. Replace 1/3.
I change about 2 quarts every 4000K . Works fine that way.
It is often recommended for high mileage Hondas for Valvoline.
The DW1 is semi synthetic versus the fully synthetic Valvoline. Fully synthetic would be advantage in cold winter states.
I would never do a full replacement but do the 1/3 change regardless which brand you use.
I find that making more changes works better than keeping the same fluid in longer.
This is what AI Co-Pilot says...............
My honest, balanced recommendation for your Accord V6
If you want zero doubt
→ Use Honda DW‑1
This is the safest, most predictable option.
If you want a Honda‑specific aftermarket fluid
→ Idemitsu Type H‑Plus
Closest to DW‑1, but not identical.
If you want a budget full‑synthetic option
→ Valvoline MaxLife
Works well in many older Hondas, but not Honda‑specific.
Some people report different experiences with this fluid.
Don't be fooled This is not OEM DW1 In a different bottle.
This isn't terrible fluid but it's definitely not the same formula in the Honda bottles. Sure idemitsu may make the OEM Honda DW1 but this type h fluid is different. Smells different and this fluid is red where as OEM DW1 is a purple ish. If you research this fluid compare to the others you see this is lacking some things. The numbers don't match. When I used this product I noticed the trans was acting funny. Shifts felt wired and was getting a harder downshift. Also turns darker quickly. For 14 dollars a bottle no thanks. Better off going to the dealer paying 10 a qt for the OEM stuff like I recently did, happy to say my trans performance is back to normal after doing 3X drain and fill of the DW1. Honda trans are picky, better off using the OEM. I'd use this in a emergency only if I HAD TO
It is often recommended for high mileage Hondas for Valvoline.
The DW1 is semi synthetic versus the fully synthetic Valvoline. Fully synthetic would be advantage in cold winter states.
I would never do a full replacement but do the 1/3 change regardless which brand you use.
I find that making more changes works better than keeping the same fluid in longer.
This is what AI Co-Pilot says...............
My honest, balanced recommendation for your Accord V6
If you want zero doubt
→ Use Honda DW‑1
This is the safest, most predictable option.
If you want a Honda‑specific aftermarket fluid
→ Idemitsu Type H‑Plus
Closest to DW‑1, but not identical.
If you want a budget full‑synthetic option
→ Valvoline MaxLife
Works well in many older Hondas, but not Honda‑specific.
Some people report different experiences with this fluid.
Don't be fooled This is not OEM DW1 In a different bottle.
This isn't terrible fluid but it's definitely not the same formula in the Honda bottles. Sure idemitsu may make the OEM Honda DW1 but this type h fluid is different. Smells different and this fluid is red where as OEM DW1 is a purple ish. If you research this fluid compare to the others you see this is lacking some things. The numbers don't match. When I used this product I noticed the trans was acting funny. Shifts felt wired and was getting a harder downshift. Also turns darker quickly. For 14 dollars a bottle no thanks. Better off going to the dealer paying 10 a qt for the OEM stuff like I recently did, happy to say my trans performance is back to normal after doing 3X drain and fill of the DW1. Honda trans are picky, better off using the OEM. I'd use this in a emergency only if I HAD TO
I have never encountered dark Maxlife AFT with 25K-30K OCI in any Honda! Shift quality will suffer with overheated ATF. This person's experience does not mirror those of other Honda owners.
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2. You mentioned IR, no mercury there, and most of the cheap harbor freight/big box store crap that your "average person" has are WILDLY inaccurate, you can buy 4 different ones and get readings of 5-10° variance between them on the same thing. Also, even with a standard mercury thermometer, you have variance from outside air temperature that the internal temp does not have.
3. Most importantly, the transmission valves open/close at the temperature the internal sensors decide the temp is, not what the temperature your guesstimate from outside the pan is. Even if the sensor was off by +10° in reality and your method was 100% accurate true fluid temp(it isn't), the thing that matters in the process is that you drain when the valves actuate properly, so the sensor readings "that you don't trust" are the actual mechanism that decides the timing for draining, so your rebuttal makes absolutely zero sense. The light on the dash that goes on/off after you jump the pins coincides with the actual functional internal flows that are absolutely, definitively, the exact moments you can/cannot drain and expect the internal fluid volume to be correct when you are done. Use the temp sensor/ECU not backwoods guess. plus, not every "average person" has an IR thermometer, everyone can scrounge up a paperclip or small piece of wire to do it properly.
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