Select Advance Auto Parts Stores have
1-Quart Idemitsu ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid (Various) on sale as listed below for
$1.95. Select free store pickup where stock permits.
Thanks to Community Member
E4300 for sharing this deal.
Note: Availability may vary by location and stock may be limited.
Available:
- Type H Plus (DW-1 and Z-1, 30040090-75000C)
- Type H (ATF Z-1, 10116-042)
- Type TLS (ATF T-IV, 30040093-75000C)
- CVTF Type N (JATCO CVTs NS-2, 30040091-75000C)
- Type S (Nissan/Infiniti Automatic Transmissions with Matic-S/J/D, 30040101-75000C)
- Type HP (SUBARU ATF HP, 30040099-75000C)
- Type TLS-LV (Toyota WS, 30040096-75000C)
- Type J (Nissan and Infiniti Matic J ATF (including Matic D and Matic K) & Select Hyundai, Kia, Jaguar and Mitsubishi, 30040095-75000C)
Top Comments
The transmission is essentially a sealed system (minus the vent valve). Therefore, controlling fluid temperature and cleanliness will dramatically improve transmission life. CHANGE ATF OFTEN. Drain and refill. Avoid flushing operation. Drain/refill will usually replace 25% to 30% of total fluid capacity.
Idemitsu is, and has been for decades, an official O.E. supplier of engine oils and transmission fluids to leading Japanese vehicle manufacturers such as Toyota, Subaru, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Lexus, Infiniti, Honda and Acura.
https://www.idemitsulub
Community Reviews
Idemitsu ATF is being discussed as a close match for Toyota WS and other Japanese automatic transmission fluids, with the main appeal being inexpensive drain and refill maintenance rather than a full flush. The strongest guidance favors changing fluid often, replacing only part of the capacity each time, and keeping the transmission clean and cool. The main caution is that very old fluid or worn clutch packs can make a fresh change feel slippery, so gradual drain and refill steps are preferred over flushing. It is a practical low cost maintenance fluid for careful service intervals.
Common Questions (6)
WS is commonly used as a drain-and-fill replacement for T-IV and can work without issues in many Toyota transmissions. It is thinner than T-IV and not officially treated as a direct backward-compatible substitute, so a cautious partial drain-and-fill is the safer approach if you choose to use it.
Drain-and-fill is the preferred method here; flushing is repeatedly discouraged because it can dislodge debris and abruptly change ATF friction properties. A drain-and-fill typically replaces only about 25% to 30% of the fluid, so repeated partial changes are used to refresh the fluid more gradually.
A frequent schedule of about every 25,000 to 30,000 miles is recommended, with some owners doing 1 quart at a time until the fluid looks clean. The idea is to keep the ATF clean and stable rather than waiting for very old fluid to accumulate heat and contaminants.
Fresh ATF can sometimes reveal or worsen slipping in a worn clutch pack because old fluid has more friction. For very old fluid, a gradual 1/2 to 1 quart drain-and-refill with a short drive between changes is suggested to reduce the chance of a sudden friction change.
Idemitsu Type H-Plus is described as close to Honda DW-1, but not identical, and some newer Hondas may not accept it well. For the least risk, OEM DW-1 is the safer choice; Idemitsu is more of an emergency or budget alternative.
Use an IR thermometer or temperature gun and target about 105-110°F at the bottom of the ATF pan, with the car level. That temperature window is used to set the fluid level accurately during the drain-and-fill process.
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
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50 Comments
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2. You mentioned IR, no mercury there, and most of the cheap harbor freight/big box store crap that your "average person" has are WILDLY inaccurate, you can buy 4 different ones and get readings of 5-10° variance between them on the same thing. Also, even with a standard mercury thermometer, you have variance from outside air temperature that the internal temp does not have.
3. Most importantly, the transmission valves open/close at the temperature the internal sensors decide the temp is, not what the temperature your guesstimate from outside the pan is. Even if the sensor was off by +10° in reality and your method was 100% accurate true fluid temp(it isn't), the thing that matters in the process is that you drain when the valves actuate properly, so the sensor readings "that you don't trust" are the actual mechanism that decides the timing for draining, so your rebuttal makes absolutely zero sense. The light on the dash that goes on/off after you jump the pins coincides with the actual functional internal flows that are absolutely, definitively, the exact moments you can/cannot drain and expect the internal fluid volume to be correct when you are done. Use the temp sensor/ECU not backwoods guess. plus, not every "average person" has an IR thermometer, everyone can scrounge up a paperclip or small piece of wire to do it properly.
2. $10 NJTY IR gun is accurate to +/-1 F, even at the default emissivity setting! I compare the IR reading of the metal ATF pan with the fluid coming out of the drain plug using a calibrated mercury thermometer. 1.5 degree F delta between the two readings.
3. Morons trust flashing light. I measure the fluid temperature coming out of the drain plug with a calibrated thermometer. The IR gun adds 1.5 F delta, well within the recommended test windows.
ATF fluid continues to expand during warm up. Warm up the ATF with drain plug removed. Insert drain plug when the fluid coming out of the plug hits 105 F. My Denso Techstream ODB II software does not support your ridiculous claim about ATF temperature, ATF is constantly flowing throughout the warm up period. Therefore, the most stable fluid reading is the one located at the drain pan. Remember, the mfr specifies a temperature range, not a specific temperature reading.
The condition of the ATF will affect the operation of a worn automatic transmission clutch pack. This is one reason why many pro shops don't change ATF if the fluid has more than 120K miles. Risk of slippage is higher with very old ATF.
WS is backward compatible with T-IV.
I drain/refill T-IV truck with WS. No problem after +125K miles. WS is the replacement fluid for T-IV.
My Corolla comes with T-IV. Drain/fill with WS since 2009. No issue after 210K miles on odometer.
No, Toyota WS (World Standard) is not considered a direct, backward-compatible replacement for T-IV (Type 4) fluid. While some users report success, Toyota officially indicates they are not compatible due to different viscosities and additive chemistries.
WS is much thinner than T-IV, so I would not.
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