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E4300 12.4K Views
Apr 9, 2026 4:13 PM

Select Advance Auto Parts Stores: 1-Qt Idemitsu ATF Transmission Fluid (Various)

$1.95

$16

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Select Advance Auto Parts Stores have 1-Quart Idemitsu ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid (Various) on sale as listed below for $1.95. Select free store pickup where stock permits.

Thanks to Community Member E4300 for sharing this deal.

Note: Availability may vary by location and stock may be limited.

Available:
  • Type H Plus (DW-1 and Z-1, 30040090-75000C)
  • Type H (ATF Z-1, 10116-042)
  • Type TLS (ATF T-IV, 30040093-75000C)
  • CVTF Type N (JATCO CVTs NS-2, 30040091-75000C)
  • Type S (Nissan/Infiniti Automatic Transmissions with Matic-S/J/D, 30040101-75000C)
  • Type HP (SUBARU ATF HP, 30040099-75000C)
  • Type TLS-LV (Toyota WS, 30040096-75000C)
  • Type J (Nissan and Infiniti Matic J ATF (including Matic D and Matic K) & Select Hyundai, Kia, Jaguar and Mitsubishi, 30040095-75000C)

Editor's Notes

Written by Nate650 | Staff
  • Please see the original post for additional details & give the wiki and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion.

Original Post

Written by E4300
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Select Advance Auto Parts Stores have 1-Quart Idemitsu ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid (Various) on sale as listed below for $1.95. Select free store pickup where stock permits.

Thanks to Community Member E4300 for sharing this deal.

Note: Availability may vary by location and stock may be limited.

Available:
  • Type H Plus (DW-1 and Z-1, 30040090-75000C)
  • Type H (ATF Z-1, 10116-042)
  • Type TLS (ATF T-IV, 30040093-75000C)
  • CVTF Type N (JATCO CVTs NS-2, 30040091-75000C)
  • Type S (Nissan/Infiniti Automatic Transmissions with Matic-S/J/D, 30040101-75000C)
  • Type HP (SUBARU ATF HP, 30040099-75000C)
  • Type TLS-LV (Toyota WS, 30040096-75000C)
  • Type J (Nissan and Infiniti Matic J ATF (including Matic D and Matic K) & Select Hyundai, Kia, Jaguar and Mitsubishi, 30040095-75000C)

Editor's Notes

Written by Nate650 | Staff
  • Please see the original post for additional details & give the wiki and additional forum comments a read for helpful discussion.

Original Post

Written by E4300

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Top Comments

Community Reviews

Idemitsu ATF is being discussed as a close match for Toyota WS and other Japanese automatic transmission fluids, with the main appeal being inexpensive drain and refill maintenance rather than a full flush. The strongest guidance favors changing fluid often, replacing only part of the capacity each time, and keeping the transmission clean and cool. The main caution is that very old fluid or worn clutch packs can make a fresh change feel slippery, so gradual drain and refill steps are preferred over flushing. It is a practical low cost maintenance fluid for careful service intervals.

  • Idemitsu ATF can be a closer match to Toyota factory fill when used for WS-compatible applications.

  • Drain-and-refill service can replace only part of the ATF capacity while avoiding flushing operations.

  • Toyota WS has reportedly been used for T-IV drain-and-refill service for long mileages without reported issues.

  • Using an incremental drain-and-fill approach can help restore friction properties gradually for very old ATF.

  • Fresh ATF may cause slippage in some transmissions, so incremental replacement and a test-drive check may be needed.

  • WS may not be a direct backward-compatible substitute for T-IV because viscosity and additive chemistries can differ.

  • Flushing operations can dislodge particles and potentially migrate into valve body passages or oil passages.

  • Some Honda applications may not accept certain non-OEM formulations, and Idemitsu Type H-Plus use has reportedly led to abnormal shifting and faster darkening.

Common Questions (6)

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50 Comments

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Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 3:13 AM
3.3K Comments
Joined Sep 2011
E4300
Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 3:13 AM
3.3K Comments
Quote from Babylicious_TouchMe View quoted comment :
A worn clutch pack is exactly what it is...worn. Tough to blame it on new fluid when the torque converter is the main thing that operates on friction. This subject is however circumstantial & based on models, but has been a dogged over time by theoretical propaganda. Lets sat you change it late in the game with the gears still intact- you still benifit significantly from detergents cleaning the clutch packs, heat modifiers, and better grip overall. When fluid is so worn out that its "slipping", the Trans is in hospice & towards the end of its life anyway. For good reason, "Pro shops" don't want the liability...My pro shop added a filter for a vehicle purchased over 150k miles with no fluid change, and added a filter FIRST before the change, just to make to get reassurance. After that, 3 flush & filles later, trans grips & runs close to new.
Explain to the readers why some old automatic transmissions slip after a drain and refill with new ATF? Flushing is another scam to make $. I'm not aware of any auto manufacturer that endorses automatic transmission flushing. Most cars use a metal screen strainer to capture dislodged RTV during engine assembly. No other filter except for a magnet on the drain plug.

Check out YT engine tear downs. All have some sort of metal filter mesh (non-degradable) at the intake tube, No other filter element found in the case.
Last edited by E4300 April 9, 2026 at 08:29 PM.
Apr 10, 2026 3:23 AM
444 Comments
Joined Nov 2009
Late_Night_LotionApr 10, 2026 3:23 AM
444 Comments
Quote from E4300 View quoted comment :
Explain to the readers why some old automatic transmissions slip after a drain and refill with new ATF? Flushing is another scam to make $. I'm not aware of any auto manufacturer that endorses automatic transmission flushing. Most cars use a metal screen strainer to capture dislodged RTV during engine assembly. No other filter except for a magnet on the drain plug.Check out YT engine tear downs. All have some sort of metal filter mesh (non-degradable) at the intake tube, No other filter element found in the crankcase.
Aftermarket Magnefine filters & the like are all I use. There are many models that also still use a common trans filter like Hondas synthetic filters that are similar. I also never condoned flushing. If the trans is hanging by a metal thread of shavings and on its way out, its just on its way out and a great reason why shops would rather not take the blame for poor maintenance. Usually owners DO know when the trans is in hospice...if its not there yet, I would rather reach for the possibility of longer life than wait and do nothing.
Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 4:14 AM
3.3K Comments
Joined Sep 2011
E4300
Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 4:14 AM
3.3K Comments
Quote from Babylicious_TouchMe View quoted comment :
Aftermarket Magnefine filters & the like are all I use. There are many models that also still use a common trans filter like Hondas synthetic filters that are similar. I also never condoned flushing. If the trans is hanging by a metal thread of shavings and on its way out, its just on its way out and a great reason why shops would rather not take the blame for poor maintenance. Usually owners DO know when the trans is in hospice...if its not there yet, I would rather reach for the possibility of longer life than wait and do nothing.
An old transmission probably has particles stuck somewhere waiting for a flush operation to dislodge them. You cannot control where these particles will migrate. These particles could lock up a valve body or plug an oil passage. The goal of any good fluid change is not to dramatically alter the friction property of the ATF over a short period of time. An incremental drain/fill/test drive accomplishes this goal if you have very old ATF.

Real story of an individual who flushed a high mileage transmission. His band-aid fix is to restore the friction property of the ATF. Physics works when properly executed!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOB3BLx-9IQ
Apr 10, 2026 4:56 AM
6.3K Comments
Joined Apr 2008
stasisApr 10, 2026 4:56 AM
6.3K Comments
These must be old stock hence on clearance. I heard shelf life of sealed oil/fluid is 2 yrs from the date of manufacture printed on the container
Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 12:21 PM
3.3K Comments
Joined Sep 2011
E4300
Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 12:21 PM
3.3K Comments
Quote from stasis View quoted comment :
These must be old stock hence on clearance. I heard shelf life of sealed oil/fluid is 2 yrs from the date of manufacture printed on the container
I used +20 yrs old API SE motor oil in 2021. No problem. Shake vigorously before use.
Apr 10, 2026 1:50 PM
121 Comments
Joined Apr 2016
fenix-silverApr 10, 2026 1:50 PM
121 Comments
Great find. Was able to find some of the TLS-LV in stock locally. Decided to try doing a drain/fill on my Toyota. Seems to be a bit of a process due to the lack of a dipstick (how dumb), but seems straightforward.
Apr 10, 2026 2:19 PM
4.6K Comments
Joined Jun 2009
backforwardbackApr 10, 2026 2:19 PM
4.6K Comments
only use Honda brand ATF in Honda. Period.

Regarding fresh fluid. Best to replace 1/3. Then drive. Replace 1/3.

I change about 2 quarts every 4000K . Works fine that way.

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Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 2:47 PM
3.3K Comments
Joined Sep 2011
E4300
Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 2:47 PM
3.3K Comments
Quote from fenix-silver View quoted comment :
Great find. Was able to find some of the TLS-LV in stock locally. Decided to try doing a drain/fill on my Toyota. Seems to be a bit of a process due to the lack of a dipstick (how dumb), but seems straightforward.
Use IR temperature gun or thermometer to check the temperature at the bottom of the ATF drain pan. 105-110F is the target temperature to drain the excess fluid. Make sure the car is level.
Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 2:52 PM
3.3K Comments
Joined Sep 2011
E4300
Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 2:52 PM
3.3K Comments
Quote from backforwardback View quoted comment :
only use Honda brand ATF in Honda. Period.

Regarding fresh fluid. Best to replace 1/3. Then drive. Replace 1/3.

I change about 2 quarts every 4000K . Works fine that way.
I've refilled Honda autos with Valvoline Maxlife ATF since 2003. No issue/anomaly.
Apr 10, 2026 4:57 PM
20 Comments
Joined Jan 2010
wsudu111Apr 10, 2026 4:57 PM
20 Comments
This is a steal! Get it if you can but online was OOS for me.
Apr 10, 2026 11:11 PM
226 Comments
Joined Jan 2016
PotatoesAreGoodApr 10, 2026 11:11 PM
226 Comments
Quote from E4300 View quoted comment :
Use IR temperature gun or thermometer to check the temperature at the bottom of the ATF drain pan. 105-110F is the target temperature to drain the excess fluid. Make sure the car is level.
Extremely inaccurate and just wrong, there is a process jumping pins in the OBDII connector and watching light on dash to alert when to drain if you don't have a scan tool to do it the nice way. IR thermometer on pan is ghetto and stupid when there is a legitimate manual process utilizing the onboard sensors, look it up
Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 11:30 PM
3.3K Comments
Joined Sep 2011
E4300
Original Poster
Apr 10, 2026 11:30 PM
3.3K Comments
Quote from PotatoesAreGood View quoted comment :
Extremely inaccurate and just wrong, there is a process jumping pins in the OBDII connector and watching light on dash to alert when to drain if you don't have a scan tool to do it the nice way. IR thermometer on pan is ghetto and stupid when there is a legitimate manual process utilizing the onboard sensors, look it up
The average person doesn't have the skill to jumper two pins on the OBD II port. Worst case, short out the port! Metal has excellent thermal conductivity. The thermal gradient between the ATF and the metal case is less than 1.5 degree F...essentially isothermal! I trust a mercury thermometer MORE than the temperature reported by the onboard computer.
Apr 11, 2026 1:24 AM
4.6K Comments
Joined Jun 2009
backforwardbackApr 11, 2026 1:24 AM
4.6K Comments
Quote from E4300 View quoted comment :
I've refilled Honda autos with Valvoline Maxlife ATF since 2003. No issue/anomaly.
That is true you can do that. It is a different formulation. Note some newer Hondas cannot accept this formula.

It is often recommended for high mileage Hondas for Valvoline.

The DW1 is semi synthetic versus the fully synthetic Valvoline. Fully synthetic would be advantage in cold winter states.

I would never do a full replacement but do the 1/3 change regardless which brand you use.

I find that making more changes works better than keeping the same fluid in longer.


This is what AI Co-Pilot says...............

My honest, balanced recommendation for your Accord V6
If you want zero doubt
→ Use Honda DW‑1
This is the safest, most predictable option.
If you want a Honda‑specific aftermarket fluid
→ Idemitsu Type H‑Plus
Closest to DW‑1, but not identical.
If you want a budget full‑synthetic option
→ Valvoline MaxLife
Works well in many older Hondas, but not Honda‑specific.



Some people report different experiences with this fluid.

Don't be fooled This is not OEM DW1 In a different bottle.
This isn't terrible fluid but it's definitely not the same formula in the Honda bottles. Sure idemitsu may make the OEM Honda DW1 but this type h fluid is different. Smells different and this fluid is red where as OEM DW1 is a purple ish. If you research this fluid compare to the others you see this is lacking some things. The numbers don't match. When I used this product I noticed the trans was acting funny. Shifts felt wired and was getting a harder downshift. Also turns darker quickly. For 14 dollars a bottle no thanks. Better off going to the dealer paying 10 a qt for the OEM stuff like I recently did, happy to say my trans performance is back to normal after doing 3X drain and fill of the DW1. Honda trans are picky, better off using the OEM. I'd use this in a emergency only if I HAD TO
Last edited by backforwardback April 10, 2026 at 06:35 PM.
Original Poster
Apr 11, 2026 1:54 AM
3.3K Comments
Joined Sep 2011
E4300
Original Poster
Apr 11, 2026 1:54 AM
3.3K Comments
Quote from backforwardback View quoted comment :
That is true you can do that. It is a different formulation. Note some newer Hondas cannot accept this formula.

It is often recommended for high mileage Hondas for Valvoline.

The DW1 is semi synthetic versus the fully synthetic Valvoline. Fully synthetic would be advantage in cold winter states.

I would never do a full replacement but do the 1/3 change regardless which brand you use.

I find that making more changes works better than keeping the same fluid in longer.


This is what AI Co-Pilot says...............

My honest, balanced recommendation for your Accord V6
If you want zero doubt
→ Use Honda DW‑1
This is the safest, most predictable option.
If you want a Honda‑specific aftermarket fluid
→ Idemitsu Type H‑Plus
Closest to DW‑1, but not identical.
If you want a budget full‑synthetic option
→ Valvoline MaxLife
Works well in many older Hondas, but not Honda‑specific.



Some people report different experiences with this fluid.

Don't be fooled This is not OEM DW1 In a different bottle.
This isn't terrible fluid but it's definitely not the same formula in the Honda bottles. Sure idemitsu may make the OEM Honda DW1 but this type h fluid is different. Smells different and this fluid is red where as OEM DW1 is a purple ish. If you research this fluid compare to the others you see this is lacking some things. The numbers don't match. When I used this product I noticed the trans was acting funny. Shifts felt wired and was getting a harder downshift. Also turns darker quickly. For 14 dollars a bottle no thanks. Better off going to the dealer paying 10 a qt for the OEM stuff like I recently did, happy to say my trans performance is back to normal after doing 3X drain and fill of the DW1. Honda trans are picky, better off using the OEM. I'd use this in a emergency only if I HAD TO
Noobs = AI. They gripe about smell, color, and unspecified numbers. Darker fluid is an indication of overheating or contaminants suspended in the ATF.

I have never encountered dark Maxlife AFT with 25K-30K OCI in any Honda! Shift quality will suffer with overheated ATF. This person's experience does not mirror those of other Honda owners.

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Apr 11, 2026 3:11 AM
226 Comments
Joined Jan 2016
PotatoesAreGoodApr 11, 2026 3:11 AM
226 Comments
Quote from E4300 View quoted comment :
The average person doesn't have the skill to jumper two pins on the OBD II port. Worst case, short out the port! Metal has excellent thermal conductivity. The thermal gradient between the ATF and the metal case is less than 1.5 degree F...essentially isothermal! I trust a mercury thermometer MORE than the temperature reported by the onboard computer.
So for 1. sticking a paperclip or other small ga wire into two specified pins is "advanced"? Silly
2. You mentioned IR, no mercury there, and most of the cheap harbor freight/big box store crap that your "average person" has are WILDLY inaccurate, you can buy 4 different ones and get readings of 5-10° variance between them on the same thing. Also, even with a standard mercury thermometer, you have variance from outside air temperature that the internal temp does not have.
3. Most importantly, the transmission valves open/close at the temperature the internal sensors decide the temp is, not what the temperature your guesstimate from outside the pan is. Even if the sensor was off by +10° in reality and your method was 100% accurate true fluid temp(it isn't), the thing that matters in the process is that you drain when the valves actuate properly, so the sensor readings "that you don't trust" are the actual mechanism that decides the timing for draining, so your rebuttal makes absolutely zero sense. The light on the dash that goes on/off after you jump the pins coincides with the actual functional internal flows that are absolutely, definitively, the exact moments you can/cannot drain and expect the internal fluid volume to be correct when you are done. Use the temp sensor/ECU not backwoods guess. plus, not every "average person" has an IR thermometer, everyone can scrounge up a paperclip or small piece of wire to do it properly.
Last edited by PotatoesAreGood April 10, 2026 at 08:19 PM.

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