creality_refurbished via eBay has
Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer 250mm/s Print Speed & Auto Leveling (Good - Refurbished) on sale for $108 - 20% when you apply coupon code
SMARTWINS at checkout =
$86.40.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member
FrugalForever for finding this deal.
Product Details:
- Includes 1 year Allstate limited warranty
- Printing Technology : Fused Deposition Modeling
- Build Volume :220*220*250mm
- Typical Printing Speed :180mm/s
- Max. Printing Speed :250mm/s (Data from printing test with CR-PLA.)
- Layer Height :0.1-0.35mm
- Printing Accuracy :+0.1mm
- Leveling Mode :Auto Leveling
- Nozzle Temperature : <260°C
- Heatbed Temperature :<100°C
- Mainboard Type :32-bit Silent Mainboard
- Display Screen :3.2" Color Knob Screen
- Supported Filaments PLA/PETG/TPU
Top Comments
Community Reviews
The Ender 3 V3 SE is a budget entry printer that can make solid basic PLA prints and teach the ropes of slicing, calibration, and troubleshooting. Auto bed leveling and auto Z offset help first layers, and the fixed bed removes manual leveling wheels. It is still an open frame bedslinger, so it is slower than newer printers and lacks built in network control unless you add USB based OctoPrint or Klipper. Refurb units can be a gamble if parts arrive bent or damaged, making it a better fit for tinkerers or a first machine than for plug and play use.
Common Questions (5)
If you want plug-and-print and less tinkering, a Bambu or a faster Creality like the 5M, V3 Plus, or Hi is the better fit. The V3 SE is mainly attractive for tight budgets or for learning, but refurb units can arrive damaged and may require returns or extra setup.
Yes, if you want a low-cost starter and are okay with a slower bedslinger that may need some setup or troubleshooting. It can print basic parts reliably and is often described as a good way to learn slicing and printer basics before upgrading.
It is slower than newer-gen printers and can take about 1.7x as long as a Flashforge 5M Pro on a comparable test print, with some users describing it as roughly 3-4x slower than the fastest current machines. As a bedslinger, it also tends to show more corner and detail artifacts at higher speeds.
No. The bed is fixed with no adjustment wheels, and the printer uses auto Z offset plus a probe-based bed mesh to map the surface for first-layer compensation.
Not by itself. It is offline unless you add an external controller such as OctoPrint or Klipper on a Raspberry Pi or old laptop; the printer can then be managed over the network.
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
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45 Comments
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Yes, if you load files directly onto an offline printer, via SD card, the printer manufacturer will not necessarily know what you're printing.
Also consider the slicer software and any number of other points along the way.
Does this printer offer wifi connectivity? If so, the capability is there, regardless of whether the manufacturer claims to get involved in censoring/reporting your prints or not.
Yes, if you load files directly onto an offline printer, via SD card, the printer manufacturer will not necessarily know what you're printing.
Also consider the slicer software and any number of other points along the way.
Does this printer offer wifi connectivity? If so, the capability is there, regardless of whether the manufacturer claims to get involved in censoring/reporting your prints or not.
You never have to connect this to the Internet if you don't want to. If you switch it to klipper you can use wifi to upload prints on your network, and klipper is an open source 3rd party solution so they aren't sending anything back to the manufacturer.
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I see so many comments about how you have to "dial it in" and other nonsense here. The v3 has auto leveling and bed mesh...the only "dialing it in" that you'd have to do otherwise would be adjustments to temperature and flow rate for filaments not correctly profiled in the slicer, but that holds true for every printer. It's also less of a failure to print issue (even generic profiles will generally get a print out), but more of a print quality issue. If it's QC issues or "someone gave me a beat to sheetrock printer and I had to fix it" it doesn't really apply since you just return that. That's the point of refurb. You save money with the chance you just lose time having to return it.
All that said, I picked up a V3ke refurb from this seller on a deal a while ago. I actually have been printing for about 10 years, having started on a wanhao duplicator i3. It had reached the point where I was sick of the bed leveling, and if you want to know what slow is...THAT was slow. I got the ke and I just plugged it in, sliced a print in cura (since switched to orca and it's supported fine), and it just prints.
The actual downside to this printer is that it's still a bedslinger. That means prints could take about twice the time (though usually slightly less than twice), you'll get more noticeable artifacts around corners and details of the print (especially at highest speed), printing ABS means you'll have to put it in a big ass tent, the footprint it'll require will just be bigger in general, and the factory set-up for the spool holder can cause issues if you try printing on an unstable surface (the weight at the top of the gantry can affect print quality or even ride the spool up on the side of the holder and bind).
All that said, I still run one. I'm actually trying to talk myself out of a k1 max, but that has a lot more to do with wanting to print things that are a bit bigger and not wanting to deal with the giant tent when I print ABS-GF.
As long as you get a working one, anything in PLA is just slice and print with these printers. The rest is just fud at this point.
As for Creality, I had their latest large volume printer (at the time it was the K2 Plus) and the bed was a mess, you could attempt to dial it in by tightening some of the bed screws, but the better upgrade was probably the graphite bed. I didn't learn about that bed before returning it, but that was the only thing I hated about it.
Oh and some even upgraded the supports under the bed for more stability, or they would shim the bed, so yes they still dial these in. Now if you're finished talking out of yer sphincter, you can apologize at any time.
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