creality_refurbished via eBay has
Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer 250mm/s Print Speed & Auto Leveling (Good - Refurbished) on sale for $108 - 20% when you apply coupon code
SMARTWINS at checkout =
$86.40.
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Thanks to Community Member
FrugalForever for finding this deal.
Product Details:
- Includes 1 year Allstate limited warranty
- Printing Technology : Fused Deposition Modeling
- Build Volume :220*220*250mm
- Typical Printing Speed :180mm/s
- Max. Printing Speed :250mm/s (Data from printing test with CR-PLA.)
- Layer Height :0.1-0.35mm
- Printing Accuracy :+0.1mm
- Leveling Mode :Auto Leveling
- Nozzle Temperature : <260°C
- Heatbed Temperature :<100°C
- Mainboard Type :32-bit Silent Mainboard
- Display Screen :3.2" Color Knob Screen
- Supported Filaments PLA/PETG/TPU
Top Comments
Community Reviews
The Ender 3 V3 SE is a budget entry printer that can make solid basic PLA prints and teach the ropes of slicing, calibration, and troubleshooting. Auto bed leveling and auto Z offset help first layers, and the fixed bed removes manual leveling wheels. It is still an open frame bedslinger, so it is slower than newer printers and lacks built in network control unless you add USB based OctoPrint or Klipper. Refurb units can be a gamble if parts arrive bent or damaged, making it a better fit for tinkerers or a first machine than for plug and play use.
Auto Z offset and bed mesh mapping can improve first-layer reliability versus older manual leveling approaches.
The printer can work as a capable entry machine when calibration and tuning are performed.
Adding Klipper with a Raspberry Pi can enable network control and improve the overall user experience.
A USB port can allow OctoPrint on an existing laptop or Raspberry Pi for added connectivity.
File loading can be limited to SD cards, which removes USB and network convenience.
Bed leveling and bed screw handling can require shimming or other fixes rather than simple factory adjustments.
Refurbished units can arrive with bent or damaged parts, which can prevent reliable printing.
Getting reliable performance can require weeks of firmware and software upgrades and troubleshooting.
Common Questions (5)
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
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45 Comments
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If you just want to print, sure you can get something better suited to that, if you want to learn the ins and outs of 3D printing, then something like this is great.
Oh and one tip, never crank the fans and try to do a PID bed tuning, that won't end well. 😂
I started on an Anet A8, and have 2 enders , one new, one i picked up on marketplace for $50 ea that puts in work with not much setup and intervention, they made good prints out of the box. There is a slight learning curve but its no where as steep as what it used to be, and no worse than $150k printers from back in the day. Even the newer stuff will run into problems that you will need to know how to fix from time to time.
At $80 i'd still recommend this as a beginner printer.
I see so many comments about how you have to "dial it in" and other nonsense here. The v3 has auto leveling and bed mesh...the only "dialing it in" that you'd have to do otherwise would be adjustments to temperature and flow rate for filaments not correctly profiled in the slicer, but that holds true for every printer. It's also less of a failure to print issue (even generic profiles will generally get a print out), but more of a print quality issue. If it's QC issues or "someone gave me a beat to sheetrock printer and I had to fix it" it doesn't really apply since you just return that. That's the point of refurb. You save money with the chance you just lose time having to return it.
All that said, I picked up a V3ke refurb from this seller on a deal a while ago. I actually have been printing for about 10 years, having started on a wanhao duplicator i3. It had reached the point where I was sick of the bed leveling, and if you want to know what slow is...THAT was slow. I got the ke and I just plugged it in, sliced a print in cura (since switched to orca and it's supported fine), and it just prints.
The actual downside to this printer is that it's still a bedslinger. That means prints could take about twice the time (though usually slightly less than twice), you'll get more noticeable artifacts around corners and details of the print (especially at highest speed), printing ABS means you'll have to put it in a big ass tent, the footprint it'll require will just be bigger in general, and the factory set-up for the spool holder can cause issues if you try printing on an unstable surface (the weight at the top of the gantry can affect print quality or even ride the spool up on the side of the holder and bind).
All that said, I still run one. I'm actually trying to talk myself out of a k1 max, but that has a lot more to do with wanting to print things that are a bit bigger and not wanting to deal with the giant tent when I print ABS-GF.
As long as you get a working one, anything in PLA is just slice and print with these printers. The rest is just fud at this point.
https://youtu.be/-h5UwDoz8h4
I have a resin printer and may soon be printing something that pushes the build volume (about 6" in the largest direction). Layed it out in Fusion and took a bit to make it fit. I also want to print large things like cosplay helmets and piece together statues. So I'm trying to convince myself I don't need to drop $150 on a 2nd 3D printer. Having a hard time. Reviews for the V3 Plus on Amazon are mixed.
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I have a resin printer and may soon be printing something that pushes the build volume (about 6" in the largest direction). Layed it out in Fusion and took a bit to make it fit. I also want to print large things like cosplay helmets and piece together statues. So I'm trying to convince myself I don't need to drop $150 on a 2nd 3D printer. Having a hard time. Reviews for the V3 Plus on Amazon are mixed.
I agree it's slow compared to the faster printers. The problem with the Bambu suggestion is price. The A1 mini is at least twice as much. The A1 is $300. Not exactly the same price range.
Also, above someone said the printer was 3-4x slower. Auros Tech does a test print that took 5h44m on the V3SE. On the Flashforge 5M pro it took 3h26m. Given the FF is one of the fastest printers she's run through that test we are talking about 1.7x longer.
I think many of the concerns are directionally correct but not correct in magnitude. BTW, I also agree with the "refurb" concerns though I've been twice lucky here.
I owned the v2 and v3, and by "print farm" I mean, I owned about 10 of them not for production use, but just personal use. Because I would spread my prints across multiple printers and they're always finicky. Once I got the P1S, I was just so done with tinkering. I've recommended the Ender to multiple friends and family and almost everyone's quit using 3D printers because of the experience. If I can save some people the downfall of quiting before learning to enjoy them, I would just point them to a bambu at this point. Sure, if you're a handy person and enjoy tinkering, I think the Ender is a great bargain.
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https://youtu.be/EL8ehEYPTCk?si=
Out of the box it printed just fine. It was slow, but you aren't required to stare at it while it is printing, you can do other things.
That being said, I came across a video of one printing crazy fast and decided to do some mods to speed mine up. I changed the hotend, added additional cooling and got some better results, but again it was doing just fine before.
This week I installed klipper on a raspberry pi 4b I had sitting around (though you can run it on an old laptop, or an orange pi or dedicated boards made for this which seems to be the cheapest option). It's a software change that is night and day difference. It is now on the network and a lot easier to control. That upgrade was the best until I ordered an accelerometer (10$) for it so it could auto tune the input shaper setting and holy shit it is a completely different printer. Prints way faster and so far the print quality has been great. I'm mostly using it to print gridfinity stuff for kitchen organization and garage organization as well.
Bottom line is this. If you are somebody who is okay with taking things apart and doing a bit of command line (or willing to learn, chat gpt will literally give you everything you need to copy/pase for this) go for it. If you aren't i probably wouldn't get into any 3d printing yet. It isn't the newest Gen but you could literally buy 5-10 of these for the price of one that is the newest gen. I'm glad I bought it and definitely would again, it is a great entry level printer, and I bought mine thinking if I actually used it I would upgrade. I definitely have been using it, but I don't think I need to upgrade now, I'll probably wait quite a while.
Tl;dr: I'd buy it again, install klipper, buy this to tune autoshaper https://a.co/d/0576xpXs. And skip the other upgrades I did. Have Claude look over all of your settings to turn up the speed and you're good to go.
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