creality_refurbished via eBay has
Creality Ender 3 V3 SE 3D Printer 250mm/s Print Speed & Auto Leveling (Good - Refurbished) on sale for $108 - 20% when you apply coupon code
SMARTWINS at checkout =
$86.40.
Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member
FrugalForever for finding this deal.
Product Details:
- Includes 1 year Allstate limited warranty
- Printing Technology : Fused Deposition Modeling
- Build Volume :220*220*250mm
- Typical Printing Speed :180mm/s
- Max. Printing Speed :250mm/s (Data from printing test with CR-PLA.)
- Layer Height :0.1-0.35mm
- Printing Accuracy :+0.1mm
- Leveling Mode :Auto Leveling
- Nozzle Temperature : <260°C
- Heatbed Temperature :<100°C
- Mainboard Type :32-bit Silent Mainboard
- Display Screen :3.2" Color Knob Screen
- Supported Filaments PLA/PETG/TPU
Top Comments
Community Reviews
The Ender 3 V3 SE is a budget entry printer that can make solid basic PLA prints and teach the ropes of slicing, calibration, and troubleshooting. Auto bed leveling and auto Z offset help first layers, and the fixed bed removes manual leveling wheels. It is still an open frame bedslinger, so it is slower than newer printers and lacks built in network control unless you add USB based OctoPrint or Klipper. Refurb units can be a gamble if parts arrive bent or damaged, making it a better fit for tinkerers or a first machine than for plug and play use.
Auto Z offset and bed mesh mapping can improve first-layer reliability versus older manual leveling approaches.
The printer can work as a capable entry machine when calibration and tuning are performed.
Adding Klipper with a Raspberry Pi can enable network control and improve the overall user experience.
A USB port can allow OctoPrint on an existing laptop or Raspberry Pi for added connectivity.
File loading can be limited to SD cards, which removes USB and network convenience.
Bed leveling and bed screw handling can require shimming or other fixes rather than simple factory adjustments.
Refurbished units can arrive with bent or damaged parts, which can prevent reliable printing.
Getting reliable performance can require weeks of firmware and software upgrades and troubleshooting.
Common Questions (5)
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
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45 Comments
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Yes, if you load files directly onto an offline printer, via SD card, the printer manufacturer will not necessarily know what you're printing.
Also consider the slicer software and any number of other points along the way.
Does this printer offer wifi connectivity? If so, the capability is there, regardless of whether the manufacturer claims to get involved in censoring/reporting your prints or not.
Yes, if you load files directly onto an offline printer, via SD card, the printer manufacturer will not necessarily know what you're printing.
Also consider the slicer software and any number of other points along the way.
Does this printer offer wifi connectivity? If so, the capability is there, regardless of whether the manufacturer claims to get involved in censoring/reporting your prints or not.
You never have to connect this to the Internet if you don't want to. If you switch it to klipper you can use wifi to upload prints on your network, and klipper is an open source 3rd party solution so they aren't sending anything back to the manufacturer.
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I see so many comments about how you have to "dial it in" and other nonsense here. The v3 has auto leveling and bed mesh...the only "dialing it in" that you'd have to do otherwise would be adjustments to temperature and flow rate for filaments not correctly profiled in the slicer, but that holds true for every printer. It's also less of a failure to print issue (even generic profiles will generally get a print out), but more of a print quality issue. If it's QC issues or "someone gave me a beat to sheetrock printer and I had to fix it" it doesn't really apply since you just return that. That's the point of refurb. You save money with the chance you just lose time having to return it.
All that said, I picked up a V3ke refurb from this seller on a deal a while ago. I actually have been printing for about 10 years, having started on a wanhao duplicator i3. It had reached the point where I was sick of the bed leveling, and if you want to know what slow is...THAT was slow. I got the ke and I just plugged it in, sliced a print in cura (since switched to orca and it's supported fine), and it just prints.
The actual downside to this printer is that it's still a bedslinger. That means prints could take about twice the time (though usually slightly less than twice), you'll get more noticeable artifacts around corners and details of the print (especially at highest speed), printing ABS means you'll have to put it in a big ass tent, the footprint it'll require will just be bigger in general, and the factory set-up for the spool holder can cause issues if you try printing on an unstable surface (the weight at the top of the gantry can affect print quality or even ride the spool up on the side of the holder and bind).
All that said, I still run one. I'm actually trying to talk myself out of a k1 max, but that has a lot more to do with wanting to print things that are a bit bigger and not wanting to deal with the giant tent when I print ABS-GF.
As long as you get a working one, anything in PLA is just slice and print with these printers. The rest is just fud at this point.
As for Creality, I had their latest large volume printer (at the time it was the K2 Plus) and the bed was a mess, you could attempt to dial it in by tightening some of the bed screws, but the better upgrade was probably the graphite bed. I didn't learn about that bed before returning it, but that was the only thing I hated about it.
Oh and some even upgraded the supports under the bed for more stability, or they would shim the bed, so yes they still dial these in. Now if you're finished talking out of yer sphincter, you can apologize at any time.
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