Costway has Costway SEERXtreme Series 12000 BTU 24 Ser2 Mini Split WiFi Air Conditioner & Heater on sale for $759.99 - Extra $190 Off w/ coupon code XQFP10895 (apply in cart) = $569.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Staff Red_Liz for finding this deal
Note, must apply the listed coupon code in cart for discount to apply
At the time of research, this product is $190 lower (25% savings); normally listed for $948.99 w/ a reduced sale price of $759.99
About the Deal
This mini split WiFi AC/heater covers up to 750 sq. ft. area w/ 12000 BTU cooling capacity & 12300 BTU heating capacity + 7 built-in modes for all-season use (works w/ Alexa to control unit remotely)
Includes a comprehensive installation kit w/ removable/washable filters
Offer valid while coupon savings/supplies last
Additional Details
Product typically delivers within 2-5 business days
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Costway has Costway SEERXtreme Series 12000 BTU 24 Ser2 Mini Split WiFi Air Conditioner & Heater on sale for $759.99 - Extra $190 Off w/ coupon code XQFP10895 (apply in cart) = $569.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Staff Red_Liz for finding this deal
Note, must apply the listed coupon code in cart for discount to apply
At the time of research, this product is $190 lower (25% savings); normally listed for $948.99 w/ a reduced sale price of $759.99
About the Deal
This mini split WiFi AC/heater covers up to 750 sq. ft. area w/ 12000 BTU cooling capacity & 12300 BTU heating capacity + 7 built-in modes for all-season use (works w/ Alexa to control unit remotely)
Includes a comprehensive installation kit w/ removable/washable filters
Offer valid while coupon savings/supplies last
Additional Details
Product typically delivers within 2-5 business days
I have this unit. I live in Phoenix and it's been working great to keep my 2 car garage cool. Uses about 1100 watts max and I have it plugged into a Pecron F3000 power bank with about 1300w solar input so it is able to run for about 9 hours for free. Was pretty easy to install - line set is a few feet shorter than other units but worked perfect for my setup. You'll need a vacuum pump with the correct attachments. The WiFi and app suck. I had to use my travel router to even get it to connect. Seems to be very picky with routers. The app is pretty bad but it at least lets me set a schedule which is all I really needed it for. You really can't go wrong with the price though.
Definitely on the right track but we're still talking on paper, in real world humidity removal the SEER2 22 will generally outperform a lower SEER rating unit like the popular SEER2 17 of the same brand.
Higher SEER2 systems do often get efficiency by using larger coils, lower compressor lift, higher evaporator temperatures, more optimized airflow, inverter/variable-speed operation, and better overall metering. Those things can improve efficiency but yes its a valid worry that those changes may reduce latent removal per hour in lab test conditions because the coil may not be as cold.
But real-world humidity control depends more on runtime, airflow, staging, coil temperature, dehumidification mode, and whether the system is oversized. For Florida where I live and work, the big issue is that a lower-efficiency SEER2 17 system can remove more moisture while it is running, especially if it has a colder coil. But if it satisfies temperature quickly and shuts off which most would, it may not remove as much total moisture over the day. A SEER2 22 variable-speed or communicating system may show lower moisture removal on paper, but in real life it can often do better because it runs longer at low capacity, keeps air moving across a cold coil longer, and some even have a dehumidification setting that slows the blower down to increase the effect.
I believe this is because Humidity removal requires a lower temperature at the evaporator side. Think of it like you could pull like 2X air that is 1X cold from the cold piece of the unit or you could pull 1X air that is 2X colder from the unit, for a given amount of cooling. Anyway, the colder the unit the bigger the difference between hot and cold. The bigger the difference between hot and cold, the lower the efficiency.
This is the theoretical driver for the issue. There could be other practical manufacturing reasons too.
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52 Comments
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Dathiene
I have this unit. I live in Phoenix and it's been working great to keep my 2 car garage cool. Uses about 1100 watts max and I have it plugged into a Pecron F3000 power bank with about 1300w solar input so it is able to run for about 9 hours for free. Was pretty easy to install - line set is a few feet shorter than other units but worked perfect for my setup. You'll need a vacuum pump with the correct attachments. The WiFi and app suck. I had to use my travel router to even get it to connect. Seems to be very picky with routers. The app is pretty bad but it at least lets me set a schedule which is all I really needed it for. You really can't go wrong with the price though.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank UN0335
Quote
from Dathiene
:
I have this unit. I live in Phoenix and it's been working great to keep my 2 car garage cool. Uses about 1100 watts max and I have it plugged into a Pecron F3000 power bank with about 1300w solar input so it is able to run for about 9 hours for free. Was pretty easy to install - line set is a few feet shorter than other units but worked perfect for my setup. You'll need a vacuum pump with the correct attachments. The WiFi and app suck. I had to use my travel router to even get it to connect. Seems to be very picky with routers. The app is pretty bad but it at least lets me set a schedule which is all I really needed it for. You really can't go wrong with the price though.
Thanks for your feedback. This seems like a great deal on a 24 SEER unit!
I was wondering if anyone can offer any information on why this unit seems to be on the low-end of moisture removal though? It seems like the highest efficiency units also seem to be the least capable at moisture removal. Looking at the specs in the picture, the models most capable of moisture removal (pints per day) seem to be the lower efficiency ones. This unit is as low as they go at 51 pints per day. The lower efficiency ones go as high as 81 pints, a big difference.
I'm in S. Florida, and the humidity is pretty brutal! I'd love to run the most efficient unit, but not if it can't also do a good job in lowering the humidity. The humidity is a huge factor in indoor air quality in places like FL.
Screenshot 2026-05-26 at 23-31-25 SEERXtreme Series ENERGY STAR Certified 12000 BTU 24 SEER2 115.png - 548959
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Tomek_The_Tomek
Quote
from UN0335
:
Thanks for your feedback. This seems like a great deal on a 24 SEER unit!
I was wondering if anyone can offer any information on why this unit seems to be on the low-end of moisture removal though? It seems like the highest efficiency units also seem to be the least capable at moisture removal. Looking at the specs in the picture, the models most capable of moisture removal (pints per day) seem to be the lower efficiency ones. This unit is as low as they go at 51 pints per day. The lower efficiency ones go as high as 81 pints, a big difference.
I'm in S. Florida, and the humidity is pretty brutal! I'd love to run the most efficient unit, but not if it can't also do a good job in lowering the humidity. The humidity is a huge factor in indoor air quality in places like FL.
I believe this is because Humidity removal requires a lower temperature at the evaporator side. Think of it like you could pull like 2X air that is 1X cold from the cold piece of the unit or you could pull 1X air that is 2X colder from the unit, for a given amount of cooling. Anyway, the colder the unit the bigger the difference between hot and cold. The bigger the difference between hot and cold, the lower the efficiency.
This is the theoretical driver for the issue. There could be other practical manufacturing reasons too.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank frozenthorn
Quote
from Tomek_The_Tomek
:
I believe this is because Humidity removal requires a lower temperature at the evaporator side. Think of it like you could pull like 2X air that is 1X cold from the cold piece of the unit or you could pull 1X air that is 2X colder from the unit, for a given amount of cooling. Anyway, the colder the unit the bigger the difference between hot and cold. The bigger the difference between hot and cold, the lower the efficiency.
This is the theoretical driver for the issue. There could be other practical manufacturing reasons too.
Definitely on the right track but we're still talking on paper, in real world humidity removal the SEER2 22 will generally outperform a lower SEER rating unit like the popular SEER2 17 of the same brand.
Higher SEER2 systems do often get efficiency by using larger coils, lower compressor lift, higher evaporator temperatures, more optimized airflow, inverter/variable-speed operation, and better overall metering. Those things can improve efficiency but yes its a valid worry that those changes may reduce latent removal per hour in lab test conditions because the coil may not be as cold.
But real-world humidity control depends more on runtime, airflow, staging, coil temperature, dehumidification mode, and whether the system is oversized. For Florida where I live and work, the big issue is that a lower-efficiency SEER2 17 system can remove more moisture while it is running, especially if it has a colder coil. But if it satisfies temperature quickly and shuts off which most would, it may not remove as much total moisture over the day. A SEER2 22 variable-speed or communicating system may show lower moisture removal on paper, but in real life it can often do better because it runs longer at low capacity, keeps air moving across a cold coil longer, and some even have a dehumidification setting that slows the blower down to increase the effect.
I have this unit. I live in Phoenix and it's been working great to keep my 2 car garage cool. Uses about 1100 watts max and I have it plugged into a Pecron F3000 power bank with about 1300w solar input so it is able to run for about 9 hours for free. Was pretty easy to install - line set is a few feet shorter than other units but worked perfect for my setup. You'll need a vacuum pump with the correct attachments. The WiFi and app suck. I had to use my travel router to even get it to connect. Seems to be very picky with routers. The app is pretty bad but it at least lets me set a schedule which is all I really needed it for. You really can't go wrong with the price though.
I cannot install this on my own, any pointers in Phoenix area who is reliable and can install this for me?
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I have this unit. I live in Phoenix and it's been working great to keep my 2 car garage cool. Uses about 1100 watts max and I have it plugged into a Pecron F3000 power bank with about 1300w solar input so it is able to run for about 9 hours for free. Was pretty easy to install - line set is a few feet shorter than other units but worked perfect for my setup. You'll need a vacuum pump with the correct attachments. The WiFi and app suck. I had to use my travel router to even get it to connect. Seems to be very picky with routers. The app is pretty bad but it at least lets me set a schedule which is all I really needed it for. You really can't go wrong with the price though.
How are you interfacing this with your power bank?
I installed this a few weeks ago. It's quieter than my McCool. the flare fittings didn't want to seal so I got a high end tool to flare them again and same issue. I conceded the spec on the copper tube was with a softer tube and wrenching down an extra bit solved my probably. Vacuumed down and left to sit for hours and came back to no changes. Let the charge in and left it alone.
Thanks for your feedback. This seems like a great deal on a 24 SEER unit!
I was wondering if anyone can offer any information on why this unit seems to be on the low-end of moisture removal though? It seems like the highest efficiency units also seem to be the least capable at moisture removal. Looking at the specs in the picture, the models most capable of moisture removal (pints per day) seem to be the lower efficiency ones. This unit is as low as they go at 51 pints per day. The lower efficiency ones go as high as 81 pints, a big difference.
I'm in S. Florida, and the humidity is pretty brutal! I'd love to run the most efficient unit, but not if it can't also do a good job in lowering the humidity. The humidity is a huge factor in indoor air quality in places like FL.
Quote
from Tomek_The_Tomek
:
I believe this is because Humidity removal requires a lower temperature at the evaporator side. Think of it like you could pull like 2X air that is 1X cold from the cold piece of the unit or you could pull 1X air that is 2X colder from the unit, for a given amount of cooling. Anyway, the colder the unit the bigger the difference between hot and cold. The bigger the difference between hot and cold, the lower the efficiency.
This is the theoretical driver for the issue. There could be other practical manufacturing reasons too.
Quote
from frozenthorn
:
Definitely on the right track but we're still talking on paper, in real world humidity removal the SEER2 22 will generally outperform a lower SEER rating unit like the popular SEER2 17 of the same brand.
Higher SEER2 systems do often get efficiency by using larger coils, lower compressor lift, higher evaporator temperatures, more optimized airflow, inverter/variable-speed operation, and better overall metering. Those things can improve efficiency but yes its a valid worry that those changes may reduce latent removal per hour in lab test conditions because the coil may not be as cold.
But real-world humidity control depends more on runtime, airflow, staging, coil temperature, dehumidification mode, and whether the system is oversized. For Florida where I live and work, the big issue is that a lower-efficiency SEER2 17 system can remove more moisture while it is running, especially if it has a colder coil. But if it satisfies temperature quickly and shuts off which most would, it may not remove as much total moisture over the day. A SEER2 22 variable-speed or communicating system may show lower moisture removal on paper, but in real life it can often do better because it runs longer at low capacity, keeps air moving across a cold coil longer, and some even have a dehumidification setting that slows the blower down to increase the effect.
Thanks to both of you for your responses!
I understand that the evaporator coil needs to cold enough for the humidity to condense on contact with the coil. What I don't understand is the "Dehumidifying Capacity: 51 Pints/Day" spec. As frozenthorn points out, there are a lot of variables involved. But it seems that you could modify the the dehumidification performance by how you run the unit.
Variables like run time, temperature setting, using "Dry" mode etc., all these factors could be used to increase how much water is pulled from the air. So what does that maximum pints/day actually mean/represent? It seems counterintuitive that a more efficient unit should have a lower spec?
Like I said, I need strong performance on the dehumidification part of the equation. I guess I'll see what AI can tell me about this.
I'm in S. Florida, and the humidity is pretty brutal! I'd love to run the most efficient unit, but not if it can't also do a good job in lowering the humidity. The humidity is a huge factor in indoor air quality in places like FL.
Not in FL, but I am in the South. I have 4 ACs and I still run two dedicated 35 Pt dehumidifiers. They still get plenty of work.
I think i remember mine saying -15yep its right there in the post Operating Ambient Temperature: -15℉-126℉
Thanks. Yeah - I see that in the item description. I was just curious if it realistically generates heat when it's that cold out. I'm in VA - so it doesn't get super cold. But we seem to now get cold blasts down into the single digits, and I'm trying to find a solution for my failing central hvac heat pump. My city doesn't offer gas, so I'm pretty much stuck with resistive heat coils ("emergency heat") when it gets that cold....consuming about 15kw
Thanks. Yeah - I see that in the item description. I was just curious if it realistically generates heat when it's that cold out. I'm in VA - so it doesn't get super cold. But we seem to now get cold blasts down into the single digits, and I'm trying to find a solution for my failing central hvac heat pump. My city doesn't offer gas, so I'm pretty much stuck with resistive heat coils ("emergency heat") when it gets that cold....consuming about 15kw
yeah I cant help you there I am in florida so doesnt really get that cold.
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Not in FL, but I am in the South. I have 4 ACs and I still run two dedicated 35 Pt dehumidifiers. They still get plenty of work.
Thanks for the feedback. This is exactly the sort of thing I am trying to avoid by making an informed choice in the beginning. Dedicated dehumidifiers use a lot more energy than a properly chosen mini split. And dehumidifiers also add to the heat load, which is not great either. Of course, everyone's situation is going to be a little (or maybe a lot!), different. I'm not trying to create a desert in my space, just keep it comfortable, close to 50% or so.
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Top Comments
Higher SEER2 systems do often get efficiency by using larger coils, lower compressor lift, higher evaporator temperatures, more optimized airflow, inverter/variable-speed operation, and better overall metering. Those things can improve efficiency but yes its a valid worry that those changes may reduce latent removal per hour in lab test conditions because the coil may not be as cold.
But real-world humidity control depends more on runtime, airflow, staging, coil temperature, dehumidification mode, and whether the system is oversized. For Florida where I live and work, the big issue is that a lower-efficiency SEER2 17 system can remove more moisture while it is running, especially if it has a colder coil. But if it satisfies temperature quickly and shuts off which most would, it may not remove as much total moisture over the day. A SEER2 22 variable-speed or communicating system may show lower moisture removal on paper, but in real life it can often do better because it runs longer at low capacity, keeps air moving across a cold coil longer, and some even have a dehumidification setting that slows the blower down to increase the effect.
This is the theoretical driver for the issue. There could be other practical manufacturing reasons too.
Join The Conversation
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!
52 Comments
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Dathiene
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank UN0335
I was wondering if anyone can offer any information on why this unit seems to be on the low-end of moisture removal though? It seems like the highest efficiency units also seem to be the least capable at moisture removal. Looking at the specs in the picture, the models most capable of moisture removal (pints per day) seem to be the lower efficiency ones. This unit is as low as they go at 51 pints per day. The lower efficiency ones go as high as 81 pints, a big difference.
I'm in S. Florida, and the humidity is pretty brutal! I'd love to run the most efficient unit, but not if it can't also do a good job in lowering the humidity. The humidity is a huge factor in indoor air quality in places like FL.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank Tomek_The_Tomek
Thanks for your feedback. This seems like a great deal on a 24 SEER unit!
I was wondering if anyone can offer any information on why this unit seems to be on the low-end of moisture removal though? It seems like the highest efficiency units also seem to be the least capable at moisture removal. Looking at the specs in the picture, the models most capable of moisture removal (pints per day) seem to be the lower efficiency ones. This unit is as low as they go at 51 pints per day. The lower efficiency ones go as high as 81 pints, a big difference.
I'm in S. Florida, and the humidity is pretty brutal! I'd love to run the most efficient unit, but not if it can't also do a good job in lowering the humidity. The humidity is a huge factor in indoor air quality in places like FL.
This is the theoretical driver for the issue. There could be other practical manufacturing reasons too.
https://static.xtremeow
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank frozenthorn
This is the theoretical driver for the issue. There could be other practical manufacturing reasons too.
Higher SEER2 systems do often get efficiency by using larger coils, lower compressor lift, higher evaporator temperatures, more optimized airflow, inverter/variable-speed operation, and better overall metering. Those things can improve efficiency but yes its a valid worry that those changes may reduce latent removal per hour in lab test conditions because the coil may not be as cold.
But real-world humidity control depends more on runtime, airflow, staging, coil temperature, dehumidification mode, and whether the system is oversized. For Florida where I live and work, the big issue is that a lower-efficiency SEER2 17 system can remove more moisture while it is running, especially if it has a colder coil. But if it satisfies temperature quickly and shuts off which most would, it may not remove as much total moisture over the day. A SEER2 22 variable-speed or communicating system may show lower moisture removal on paper, but in real life it can often do better because it runs longer at low capacity, keeps air moving across a cold coil longer, and some even have a dehumidification setting that slows the blower down to increase the effect.
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I installed this a few weeks ago. It's quieter than my McCool. the flare fittings didn't want to seal so I got a high end tool to flare them again and same issue. I conceded the spec on the copper tube was with a softer tube and wrenching down an extra bit solved my probably. Vacuumed down and left to sit for hours and came back to no changes. Let the charge in and left it alone.
I was wondering if anyone can offer any information on why this unit seems to be on the low-end of moisture removal though? It seems like the highest efficiency units also seem to be the least capable at moisture removal. Looking at the specs in the picture, the models most capable of moisture removal (pints per day) seem to be the lower efficiency ones. This unit is as low as they go at 51 pints per day. The lower efficiency ones go as high as 81 pints, a big difference.
I'm in S. Florida, and the humidity is pretty brutal! I'd love to run the most efficient unit, but not if it can't also do a good job in lowering the humidity. The humidity is a huge factor in indoor air quality in places like FL.
This is the theoretical driver for the issue. There could be other practical manufacturing reasons too.
Higher SEER2 systems do often get efficiency by using larger coils, lower compressor lift, higher evaporator temperatures, more optimized airflow, inverter/variable-speed operation, and better overall metering. Those things can improve efficiency but yes its a valid worry that those changes may reduce latent removal per hour in lab test conditions because the coil may not be as cold.
But real-world humidity control depends more on runtime, airflow, staging, coil temperature, dehumidification mode, and whether the system is oversized. For Florida where I live and work, the big issue is that a lower-efficiency SEER2 17 system can remove more moisture while it is running, especially if it has a colder coil. But if it satisfies temperature quickly and shuts off which most would, it may not remove as much total moisture over the day. A SEER2 22 variable-speed or communicating system may show lower moisture removal on paper, but in real life it can often do better because it runs longer at low capacity, keeps air moving across a cold coil longer, and some even have a dehumidification setting that slows the blower down to increase the effect.
Thanks to both of you for your responses!
I understand that the evaporator coil needs to cold enough for the humidity to condense on contact with the coil. What I don't understand is the "Dehumidifying Capacity: 51 Pints/Day" spec. As frozenthorn points out, there are a lot of variables involved. But it seems that you could modify the the dehumidification performance by how you run the unit.
Variables like run time, temperature setting, using "Dry" mode etc., all these factors could be used to increase how much water is pulled from the air. So what does that maximum pints/day actually mean/represent? It seems counterintuitive that a more efficient unit should have a lower spec?
Like I said, I need strong performance on the dehumidification part of the equation. I guess I'll see what AI can tell me about this.
I'm in S. Florida, and the humidity is pretty brutal! I'd love to run the most efficient unit, but not if it can't also do a good job in lowering the humidity. The humidity is a huge factor in indoor air quality in places like FL.
Not in FL, but I am in the South. I have 4 ACs and I still run two dedicated 35 Pt dehumidifiers. They still get plenty of work.
yep its right there in the post Operating Ambient Temperature: -15℉-126℉
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