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Monolith by Monoprice M7100X 7x 90W/ch Home Theater Power Amplifier
$325
$650
50% off
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Monoprice has Monolith by Monoprice M7100X 7x90 Watts Per Channel Multi-Channel Home Theater Power Amplifier with RCA & XLR Inputs (43866) on sale for $649.99 - 50% with promo code SHOP50 in cart = $324.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member vid1900 for sharing this deal.
Details:
Thanks to Community Member vid1900 for sharing this deal.
Details:
- 7-channel Class AB power amplifier
- 90W per channel into 8 ohms, all channels driven
- THD < 0.02% with SNR > -100 dB
- Unbalanced RCA and XLR inputs
- 3RU height
Editor's Notes
Written by SaltyOne | Staff- Rated 4.9 out of 5 stars from customer reviews.
- At the time of this posting, our research indicates that this is $195 lower than the next best comparable online prices starting from $519.99.
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Monoprice has Monolith by Monoprice M7100X 7x90 Watts Per Channel Multi-Channel Home Theater Power Amplifier with RCA & XLR Inputs (43866) on sale for $649.99 - 50% with promo code SHOP50 in cart = $324.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member vid1900 for sharing this deal.
Details:
Thanks to Community Member vid1900 for sharing this deal.
Details:
- 7-channel Class AB power amplifier
- 90W per channel into 8 ohms, all channels driven
- THD < 0.02% with SNR > -100 dB
- Unbalanced RCA and XLR inputs
- 3RU height
Editor's Notes
Written by SaltyOne | Staff- Rated 4.9 out of 5 stars from customer reviews.
- At the time of this posting, our research indicates that this is $195 lower than the next best comparable online prices starting from $519.99.
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Top Comments
If you want to see how a bunch of the new receivers only put out ~30 watts when they go into a secret 'limp mode' with no indication that you are not getting the 135wpc you paid for......
Even if you forget and leave the internal amps on, the heatsink fans will never come on because they are not actually under load.
https://www.audioscienc
The 30wpc that you are currently getting from the receiver seems loud, but you are missing out on the dynamic peaks that can be 100w, even on moderate volume movie watching.
Community Reviews
The Monolith 7 channel amp is mainly a headroom and expansion piece for home theater setups, especially when an AVR is hitting low power limits or needs extra channels. It can run cool, add dynamics, and help with future Atmos or 7.2.4 upgrades, while some setups barely change because the receiver already has enough power. The main cautions are reported hum on some units, a two prong power cord, and occasional compatibility quirks. It fits best when the system truly needs external amplification.
Home theater owners adding channels for Atmos, because it can power extra speakers and free the AVR to run cooler.
Listeners with low-impedance speakers that dip hard, because the amp is described as stable enough to handle difficult loads and preserve dynamics.
Movie watchers who want more headroom at moderate-to-loud levels, because it can restore dynamic peaks that a receiver may compress.
Owners of older receivers that enter low-power protection, because this external amp is presented as a way around the 30-watt limitation.
Owners of receivers already driving their speakers comfortably, because several setups reported little audible change from adding it.
People expecting a silent rack, because the amp can produce a faint hum that may persist even after replacement.
Two-channel stereo listeners, because this seven-channel amp is overkill when only two channels are needed.
Buyers wanting a simple plug-and-play receiver replacement, because it is only an amplifier and still needs a preamp for volume and inputs.
Common Questions (5)
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
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188 Comments
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I'm wondering if this issue is present on every unit or if it's a QC issue. Two units back to back, plus the Audioholics assessment definitely lends to defective design being the culprit.
How severe is the hum and were you able to reduce it? Do you consider the amp to be enjoyable even with the hum?
Reviews on this amp are very mixed and sparse, so I'm wondering if it has QC issues. Audioholics declined to publish testing results for the M7100x (beta revision) back in 2024. Negative reviews I've found all seem to be from 2024 as well. Wondering if Monoprice fixed the design since 2024.
Runs pretty cool.
It replaced a 5 channel Outlaw that would sometimes shutdown.
His new wife loved having all the wires fished through the walls, rather than hanging down, or laying behind the couch
Take the amp out of the rack, put it on a wooden cutting board. Make sure no other wires are connected other than the power cord. Make sure no metal shelving is touching it
Attach a single speaker to channel 1
Connect some battery powered audio device to channel 1. A phone with a headphone output or an iPod is perfect.
Bring up the volume. If it's not humming, then you know there's a ground loop in your system.
I'm afraid of the amount of people that bought one of these for their system that absolutely do not need it. Many people don't go over 30wpc and if you tripped your receiver into protection because you were pulling too much you would sure as crap know it is in "limp mode". I wish instead of using FUD (fear uncertainty and doubt) people would instead teach others how to calculate their power draw and what they actually need.
most people don't listen at reference volumes. most speakers people buy can't even handle reference volumes. People should get their speaker sensitivity (if it's klipsch subtract 6db) then go to a place like this and calculate what they need. https://mehlau.net/audio/spl/
The problem is knowing what they need. If you ran auto calibration on your receiver then you can use the volume readout on your receiver to figure this out. 85dB is reference so if you listen at -15 then you want 70db. You want 20dB of headroom for full peak but there's been research that your brain can "fill in" clipping of up to 6dB. So if you listen at 70dB you can actually be ok with levels that only go to 84dB.
So 30w with a 87dB speaker at 10' away will play to 95dB. Most people are JUUUUST fine with this.
People that like having big numbers on boxes and don't follow the math will tell you this isn't true but its just the plain reality.
Good deal though.
I'm afraid of the amount of people that bought one of these for their system that absolutely do not need it. Many people don't go over 30wpc and if you tripped your receiver into protection because you were pulling too much you would sure as crap know it is in "limp mode". I wish instead of using FUD (fear uncertainty and doubt) people would instead teach others how to calculate their power draw and what they actually need.
most people don't listen at reference volumes. most speakers people buy can't even handle reference volumes. People should get their speaker sensitivity (if it's klipsch subtract 6db) then go to a place like this and calculate what they need. https://mehlau.net/audio/spl/
The problem is knowing what they need. If you ran auto calibration on your receiver then you can use the volume readout on your receiver to figure this out. 85dB is reference so if you listen at -15 then you want 70db. You want 20dB of headroom for full peak but there's been research that your brain can "fill in" clipping of up to 6dB. So if you listen at 70dB you can actually be ok with levels that only go to 84dB.
So 30w with a 87dB speaker at 10' away will play to 95dB. Most people are JUUUUST fine with this.
People that like having big numbers on boxes and don't follow the math will tell you this isn't true but its just the plain reality.
Good deal though.
Does anyone here believe that 20wpc is enough juice to power my 25 year old b&w 800 fronts ?
How about my six surround b&w 601 that are even older ?
It takes some real power to give you the dynamics and headroom that movies require.
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Take your 505 & some bare speaker wire.
Connect the 800s & 601s to the appropriate channels.
Take a listen, did it sound satisfactory, did you hear the limp mode issue?
This will give you the true answer to your questions imo.
Science project:
Take your 505 & some bare speaker wire.
Connect the 800s & 601s to the appropriate channels.
Take a listen, did it sound satisfactory, did you hear the limp mode issue?
This will give you the true answer to your questions imo.
For reasons unknown to man, the 505 doesn't take standard banana jack pairs.
I'm not going to pull a 600+ pound rack out and re-terminate wires just to entertain some kids on the internet.
Then why ask & why would you think anyone can actually answer that for you?
Then why ask & why would you think anyone can actually answer that for you?
I had no problem measuring the Pioneer 505s 43w power draw during Blu-ray playback; because it required no effort from me, lol
Does anyone here believe that 20wpc is enough juice to power my 25 year old b&w 800 fronts ?
How about my six surround b&w 601 that are even older ?
It takes some real power to give you the dynamics and headroom that movies require.
Not sure which B&W 800s you have but lets go with these https://www.stereophile
91dB sensitivy rated but 92.5dB measured.
20 watts of power, 10' away gives you 94.5-96dB. That's loud enough to play a movie at -10 from reference without ever clipping.
How loud do you listen? Are you actually tripping your receivers and sending them into limp mode? You find yourself turning it up and it not getting louder?
Bigger speakers don't require more power, its actually usually the opposite. A lot of people used to love driving the types of speakers you have with tube amps which would max out at 30 watts.
Do you also use cable risers to keep your speaker wire off the ground?
Not sure which B&W 800s you have but lets go with these https://www.stereophile
91dB sensitivy rated but 92.5dB measured.
20 watts of power, 10' away gives you 94.5-96dB. That's loud enough to play a movie at -10 from reference without ever clipping.
4kw to the speakers (four hca-3500) and 3kw to the sub (rmx5050).
I'm not sure I've ever turned it up past 40%, but my GF probably has.
There is SO much reserve power, seems effortless.
Nothing has ever tripped, except when the amp on the old sub died. At least it didn't take the drivers along with it.
Back in the day when the b&w 800s were popular, I remember most people were driving them with a killowatt of power.
I'm into minimalist clean.
All my wiring runs through the floors and walls, completey hidden.
I know you mean well, but I think you might just be following formulas, without having any actual experience with the speakers we are discussing.
My great room is 24x35 and then flows into a kitchen at the rear, so we have a plenty of volume to fill.
4kw to the speakers (four hca-3500) and 3kw to the sub (rmx5050).
I'm not sure I've ever turned it up past 40%, but my GF probably has.
There is SO much reserve power, seems effortless.
Nothing has ever tripped, except when the amp on the old sub died. At least it didn't take the drivers along with it.
I've never heard of anyone doing that.
Back in the day when the b&w 800s were popular, I remember most people were driving them with a killowatt of power.
I'm into minimalist clean.
All my wiring runs through the floors and walls, completey hidden.
The speaker doesn't give a crap about how much power is in reserve, it never sees it. It cares about how much power it gets. It sounds like you are never using more than like 10w.
7kw of power total???? How many breakers do you have feeding the system? To properly feed a system that pulls that much you'd need four 20 amp breakers.
You have laughably too much power feeding your system. I mean, not too much I guess. Its the same as someone buying a Dodge Hellcat and never flooring it. Looks cool, but never used.
My guess is over the years you've bought more expensive and powerful amps and you confirmation biased your way into thinking they sounded better. Classic audiophile.
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