expired
Monolith by Monoprice M7100X 7x 90W/ch Home Theater Power Amplifier
$325
$650
50% off
+ Free S&Hat Monoprice
Black Friday is days away. Pick your offers now.Black Friday is days away. Pick your offers now.
Start Sifting Missed This Deal? Get alerts when similar deals are posted.
+ Free S&Hat MonopriceDeal Details
Monoprice has Monolith by Monoprice M7100X 7x90 Watts Per Channel Multi-Channel Home Theater Power Amplifier with RCA & XLR Inputs (43866) on sale for $649.99 - 50% with promo code SHOP50 in cart = $324.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member vid1900 for sharing this deal.
Details:
Thanks to Community Member vid1900 for sharing this deal.
Details:
- 7-channel Class AB power amplifier
- 90W per channel into 8 ohms, all channels driven
- THD < 0.02% with SNR > -100 dB
- Unbalanced RCA and XLR inputs
- 3RU height
Editor's Notes
Written by SaltyOne | Staff- Rated 4.9 out of 5 stars from customer reviews.
- At the time of this posting, our research indicates that this is $195 lower than the next best comparable online prices starting from $519.99.
Community Notes
About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Monoprice has Monolith by Monoprice M7100X 7x90 Watts Per Channel Multi-Channel Home Theater Power Amplifier with RCA & XLR Inputs (43866) on sale for $649.99 - 50% with promo code SHOP50 in cart = $324.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Community Member vid1900 for sharing this deal.
Details:
Thanks to Community Member vid1900 for sharing this deal.
Details:
- 7-channel Class AB power amplifier
- 90W per channel into 8 ohms, all channels driven
- THD < 0.02% with SNR > -100 dB
- Unbalanced RCA and XLR inputs
- 3RU height
Editor's Notes
Written by SaltyOne | Staff- Rated 4.9 out of 5 stars from customer reviews.
- At the time of this posting, our research indicates that this is $195 lower than the next best comparable online prices starting from $519.99.
Community Voting
Deal
Score
+76
Good Deal
Bad Deal
Top Comments
If you want to see how a bunch of the new receivers only put out ~30 watts when they go into a secret 'limp mode' with no indication that you are not getting the 135wpc you paid for......
Even if you forget and leave the internal amps on, the heatsink fans will never come on because they are not actually under load.
https://www.audioscienc
The 30wpc that you are currently getting from the receiver seems loud, but you are missing out on the dynamic peaks that can be 100w, even on moderate volume movie watching.
Community Reviews
This Monolith 7-channel amp is mainly pitched as a clean-power upgrade for home theater setups that need extra channels or more headroom, especially with receivers that can process more than they can amplify. It is described as running cool, helping the AVR work less, and making a noticeable difference in dynamics or low-volume clarity in some systems. The main cautions are a reported faint hum on some units, a two-prong power cord with no ground, and the possibility that many normal listening setups will not sound much different from a decent receiver. It is a practical fit when you need external amplification more than raw loudness.
Common Questions (6)
Some units reportedly have a faint hum that does not go away, while others are silent even with high-sensitivity speakers. Power draw reports also vary: one measurement showed about 38W in standby and about 43W during Blu-ray playback with no speakers connected, so a power strip may be the safest way to fully cut power.
Yes, the Denon 4300 can feed it through pre-outs and amp assign, but it does not have a dedicated preamp mode, so its internal amps still draw power. The Denon 3800 does have dedicated independent preamp mode, which makes it a better match if you want to offload channels and reduce heat or power use.
For many normal-use setups, the difference can be small or hard to hear, especially if the AVR already drives the speakers comfortably. The main gains are more headroom, better dynamics at higher levels, and less strain on the receiver rather than a guaranteed night-and-day sound change.
For typical movie listening at comfortably loud levels, 90WPC is usually enough, especially with reasonably sensitive speakers and a normal-sized room. Several comments note that 30WPC is already quite loud in real-world use, and that the bigger benefit of an external amp is extra headroom for dynamic peaks rather than a dramatic loudness increase.
Yes, if you need external amplification for extra processed channels or want room to grow beyond a 9-channel AVR, it can be a practical buy. It is also useful when you want to move some channels off the AVR to reduce heat and preserve headroom for future expansion.
It can lock into limp mode if it is asked to deliver more than 30WPC into 4 ohms, and there is no clear indicator on the unit when that happens. With 8-ohm speakers it may never trigger, and the easiest check is to compare sound at normal volume before and after switching the AVR to 4-ohm mode or measure output with a watt meter.
AI-generated summary based on comments from the community. Updated ago
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!
188 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I'll contact Monoprice to see if they'll swap it. Anyone else having the same issue, please post.
I wonder why the 1200W rating. 90*7 = 630 W. Rated at nearly double. 🤔
It's quite normal for an idling amp to be a little warm.
That's why amps have that 12v trigger to turn it on ONLY when the receiver is on. (or in your case, only when Zone 2 is on)
Or just manually turn the amp or power strip off.
I agree, to power extra processing channels for Atmos doesn't need to be costly.
You definitely don't need this 7 channel, 90 wpc amp to do it, as you found out.
As a matter of fact there are many that use Fosi amps to do it with good success & cost way less.
Might be of interest.
My other point, going from 7.1 to Atmos "properly" would start with 7.1.4.
One thing I do believe on that.
The quality of your speakers, their implementation/calibration and environment have a MUCH bigger influence on that "difference" you mentioned than any amp.
Speak of calibration don't know if A1Evo would work on your AVR but it is designed for Audyssey users, might be something of interest.
I'll let you guys debate/discuss the importance of "measurements".
Good luck.
It's quite normal for an idling amp to be a little warm.
That's why amps have that 12v trigger to turn it on ONLY when the receiver is on. (or in your case, only when Zone 2 is on)
Or just manually turn the amp or power strip off.
But draws 38 watts while turned off in Standby Mode.
Kids, better to kill power completely on the powerstrip, than be burning 38 watts 24/7
ASR accepts no ads, no sponsorships, or paywalls....even their Youtube channel is ad and sponsorship free.
So if ASR shows repeatable evidence that a receiver locks into Limp Mode once a speaker's impedance dips below 4 ohms, then everyone here is free to examine the posted test results.
If you have evidence that his testing is flawed, you should post your evidence and your testing methodology.
You keep avoiding measuring your amps or commenting on that. Have you done it?
But draws 38 watts while turned off in Standby Mode.
Kids, better to kill power completely on the powerstrip, than be burning 38 watts 24/7
Energy Star
https://www.energystar.
VSX-LX505
https://pioneerglobalsu
https://www.audioscienc
You keep avoiding measuring your amps or commenting on that. Have you done it?
The amps I'm using are 2 decade old Parasound 3500s that are rated for 500wpc into 4ohm load. If I remember correctly, John Atkindson from Stereophile benched them at over 800wpc into a 4ohm load.
So I'm not giving my speakers (B&W 800s) anywhere near the kilowatt that many owners did at the time they were popular, but in my room, they are kicking.
Since some of the kids here are very into "sounding", I don't hear any compression at theater reference levels, and there is plenty of headroom above that. How much headroom? I'd have to get a RTA and some serious ear muffs.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
They'll learn, reading/measuring is where it's all at!!!
Whoa wait you can "hear" compression without needing to measure!!!???
So you "listen" at reference levels.
I don't know about anyone else but I would wear ear muffs "listening" at those levels!!!
I don't normally "listen" anywhere near those levels!!!
Why should we be concerned about "listening" levels we don't "listen" at!
There sure seems to be a lot of "listening" involved here, maybe those kids are very onto to something!
Whoa sorry those kids almost got me, back to reading & measuring!
The amps I'm using are 2 decade old Parasound 3500s that are rated for 500wpc into 4ohm load. If I remember correctly, John Atkindson from Stereophile benched them at over 800wpc into a 4ohm load.
So I'm not giving my speakers (B&W 800s) anywhere near the kilowatt that many owners did at the time they were popular, but in my room, they are kicking.
Since some of the kids here are very into "sounding", I don't hear any compression at theater reference levels, and there is plenty of headroom above that. How much headroom? I'd have to get a RTA and some serious ear muffs.
I was saying just hook up your wattage meter to the power cord and monitor what they draw while on. That Parasound amp isn't exactly efficient being an a/ab class. So on heavy loads, lets be generous, and cut whatever its pulling from the wall in half (probably more like 40%). That'll roughly be an approximate of how much you are actually giving your speakers. Although if that number is low then it's even less efficient with lower draw so it may be like 20-30% that's actually making it to the speakers.
https://www.stereophile
When looking at distortion limitations its 351 into 4ohms with 2ch driven. 800 into 2 ohms. The 854w into 4ohms is a 1khz tone burst. So not continuous. It would be impossible for that amp to put out that much power for any stretch of time.
I was saying just hook up your wattage meter to the power cord and monitor what they draw while on. That Parasound amp isn't exactly efficient being an a/ab class. So on heavy loads, lets be generous, and cut whatever its pulling from the wall in half (probably more like 40%). That'll roughly be an approximate of how much you are actually giving your speakers. Although if that number is low then it's even less efficient with lower draw so it may be like 20-30% that's actually making it to the speakers.
https://www.stereophile
When looking at distortion limitations its 351 into 4ohms with 2ch driven. 800 into 2 ohms. The 854w into 4ohms is a 1khz tone burst. So not continuous. It would be impossible for that amp to put out that much power for any stretch of time.
The 100,000uf banks of caps on each channel can hold a lot of energy for short bursts, but I've got no way to document them for you.
Looks like that review you linked to can give you more details than I ever could - and it's from a trusted source
The 100,000uf banks of caps on each channel can hold a lot of energy for short bursts, but I've got no way to document them for you.
Looks like that review you linked to can give you more details than I ever could - and it's from a trusted source
The whole point of all of this is that a bench test can look scary when the tester forces a heavy load and the amp trips. But, that doesn't mean that situation will happen in real life for most users. I like Amir's data but he often falls victim to numbers over reality. His rankings on SINAD results are a perfect example of this. He (and that community) way over value them (go do some research on what is actually audible there). Your speakers are very sensitive and don't require a lot of power to fill a room. It's just the plain math. But for decades people have thought, and still think, the more power (aka "headroom") you have the better. You need what the speaker pulls, not the number on the box.
I find it unlikely that you consistently listen at 85dB in your home. It's smaller than a theater and the sound waves will bounce around more creating a higher perceived volume. If you are listening that loud then maybe you have hearing loss. It's really quite loud in a home environment. Even if you are, your B&Ws aren't likely using as much as you think they are.
you can see the ATSC recommended levels based on room size here on page 36: https://www.atsc.org/wp-content/u...udness.pdf
I find it funny in this hobby that so many people go out and buy giant speakers, or commercial cinema speakers because they want to listen loud and then think they need gobs of power for them. It's literally the opposite. The bigger speakers and commercial speakers almost always have higher sensitivity and need lower power. The reason to buy a new amp is because they are so sensitive that the amp needs a low noise floor otherwise you can hear it. Its the people with compact speakers that need more power, but then those tend to distort when getting a lot so yeah.
I'll gladly give my opinion on what somebody's best bang for the buck will be.
But since it's not my money, I can't worry what someone ultimately purchases.
Home Theater / Audiophile is the greatest of hobbies. Wives like it because it keeps their husband out from under foot, and husbands like it because there is no way their wife is going to sit through King Gizzard's Digital Black again. Win/win.
Maybe try to live it, not just say it by not calling someone a kid,having audio Stockholm syndrome,etc when they don't agree with your "opinion"!!!
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
lol yes you shouldn't, it's only your "opinion" after all!
Maybe try to live it, not just say it by not calling someone a kid,having audio Stockholm syndrome,etc when they don't agree with your "opinion"!!!
English is my 3rd language, so things that I say in jest apparently are taken to heart.
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!