http://www.costco.com/BIGHORN-Saf...25662.html
Compare at $966.62
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bighor.../204732447
19.1 cu ft Bighorn Safe
- Securam ECSL-601 electronic lock
- 24 Long Guns
- 30 Minute Fire Raiting
- 445lbs
Product Specs
Exterior Dimensions: 59" H x 28" W x 20" D
Interior Dimensions: 57.5" H x 26.75" W x 14.75" D
Weight: 435 lbs.
Door Thickness: 1.5" thick formed front, 4.75" overall thickness
Exterior space: 19.12 cubic feet
Interior space: 13.13 cubic feet
Long Gun Slots: 24
Fire Rating: 30 minutes at 1200°
Handles: 3 point, chrome
Color: Durable, baked-on powder coated black finish with chrome accents
Certifications: UL Certified Residential Security Container & meets or exceeds California Department of Justice acceptable gun safe standards.
14 Comments
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(by installed properly I mean anchored so you can't tip it, and in a corner where you can't get a pry-bar in the door due to a wall being there when it's closed)
If Danny Ocean really wants in your safe he's getting in even you spent 10x as much on it as this thing. And that's what insurance is for anyway.
(by installed properly I mean anchored so you can't tip it, and in a corner where you can't get a pry-bar in the door due to a wall being there when it's closed)
If Danny Ocean really wants in your safe he's getting in even you spent 10x as much on it as this thing. And that's what insurance is for anyway.
http://m.costco.com/.product.100055
Pretty dumb video... even the more expensive safes are "easy" to break into if you bring the right power tools or it's not mounted properly.
Even worse, virtually all of his criticisms are guesses... like with the key hole "I would bet if you drilled into this you could open the safe...."
His next criticism is he shows you a bunch of things that 'can be bent' but none of them are things you can actually reach with the safe CLOSED.
Then he gets even funnier- suggesting if you first bring power tools- then drill into it in one specific place you'd need to know in advance for THAT safe model- then insert ANOTHER tool, then pound on it with a hammer for a while, he's "sure" it would then break yet ANOTHER piece...again with no evidence of that.
Then his next one is if you get exactly the right thin pry tool, and get, in his own words "lucky" in where you insert it, and then you can somehow ALSO push an interior button at a 90 degree angle with it-- it'll reset the lock. Again without showing you you can ACTUALLY do that (and unlike some of the others this wouldn't even damage the safe to demonstrate... but he doesn't... because like all the rest of his criticisms he's randomly guessing)
So anyway, like I said originally- if Danny Ocean wants your safe contents and brings power tools, knows the model in advance, and has plenty of time, he's getting your stuff.
Even if you spend 10x this much on the safe.
But for 99.9% of actual criminals who are just doing a smash and grab and spend like 5 minutes inside your place because they want to beat the average police response time.... these less expensive safes are just as good as the much more expensive ones, for vastly less cost.
And for that 0.1% where a professional crew with power tools shows up- that's what insurance is for.
http://m.costco.com/.product.100055
Yup that's the one- I'd pay the 100 personally for the interior power and the much better door organizer and having a bit more room/shelf space inside
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How? the video only shows 2 real 'security' differences between this and the other one-
1) It uses only side bolts, versus the SA one that uses bolts on all 4 sides- he thinks the side only system is better, but again offers no actual evidence of that, just alluding to something that "could bend" but you can't even reach when the safe is closed.
2) The actual lock- which did not come with the safe he bought it later for $95 on amazon. Which you could do for any safe if you didn't like the digital one it came with.
So realistically- a team of thieves who know in advance you have a safe, what exact safe it is, and who have lots of time and the right power tools, will get into either safe. Or the much more expensive one you could've bought instead.
The average smash and grabber on the other hand will ignore the safe and grab your PS4 or laptop and anything else he can toss in a bag in 3 minutes and ignore either model of safe entirely other than maybe checking if you forgot to lock it.
1) It uses only side bolts, versus the SA one that uses bolts on all 4 sides- he thinks the side only system is better, but again offers no actual evidence of that, just alluding to something that "could bend" but you can't even reach when the safe is closed.
2) The actual lock- which did not come with the safe he bought it later for $95 on amazon. Which you could do for any safe if you didn't like the digital one it came with.
So realistically- a team of thieves who know in advance you have a safe, what exact safe it is, and who have lots of time and the right power tools, will get into either safe. Or the much more expensive one you could've bought instead.
The average smash and grabber on the other hand will ignore the safe and grab your PS4 or laptop and anything else he can toss in a bag in 3 minutes and ignore the safe entirely other than maybe checking if you forgot to lock it.
I agree that an advanced robber who goes in knowing they are going to be breaking open a safe won't have a real hard time with either and would still probably get into one 2-3 times the price. That is why I'm in the market for one of these. I have a security system with cameras. If they can get by all that and still get the stuff out of my safe then hats off to them, I'll just file an insurance claim.
IMO, the Sports Afield one looks like a gun cabinet locking mechanism covered up to look like a safe. The Big Horn to me looks like a safe locking mechanism.
ok, I can buy that it LOOKS better (if you remove the interior door panels and look at it).
There's no evidence it actually works any better though.
Things that are physically unreachable with the door closed/locked that are more or less robust than the other model aren't really relevant.
Nobody's going to be attacking those parts on either one anyway.
As you seem to agree on, a guy who knows the model in advance as has tools will be attacking OTHER weaker aspects of the safe in the first place... and the average smash and grab guy won't bother with either.
Hence why I'd rather get the model that actually has functional advantages like holding more guns on the door or more shelf space or interior power.
But if this model is "good enough" for a given persons needs (though keep in mind you ALWAYS end up with way more in there than you think you will) it'll work just fine and is 100 bucks less.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product...UTF8&