Sofirn SC32 USB-C Rechargeable Flashlight 2000 lumens $28.19 on Amazon (Need Prime + Promo code), Free Shipping

Hrmm. 1000yd throw rating. I'm guessing this light has a pretty tight beam which is unfortunate.

I vastly prefer floody lights for "EDC" as they're just more useful.

Not sure where you're getting those specs, quite different on the Amazon site…either way , unable to replicate deal..asks to sign in and then sits there….

Not sure where you're getting those specs, quite different on the Amazon site…either way , unable to replicate deal..asks to sign in and then sits there….

$4.99 @ alibaba 🤣🤣🤣

Code didn't work for me; i could only get down to about 30.
Comes out cheaper than that with shipping on manufacturer's page anyway. 28.98, with zero chance of a fake.
https://www.sofirnlight.com/produ...-edc-light

To obtain these numbers, I used a very rudimentary integrated shoebox and ceilingbounce on my Samsung Galaxy S10. Measurements have been calibrated using a standardized calibration light provided by 1Lumen.

Unfortunately, it is important to note that the Sofirn SC32 underperforms by about 25% all around. In reality, the visual difference between 1500 and 2000 lumens is hard to discern, but what's advertised and how it actually does are different things.

Turbo lasts just under a minute while high takes almost three and a half minutes to step down, but they both converge at the medium level, and all three modes stay there for almost 5 hours. Really, aside from the short burst at the beginning, this is a ~300 lumen light. It would've been nice to see it sustain high for a bit longer than that.

Another thing that's a bit annoying is the jump between moonlight and low. The difference between low, medium, high, and turbo is ok, but not having anything between 1 and 90 (advertised) lumens is jarring. If you think accidentally activating a 10-lumen low mode when you're expecting moonlight is bad, hitting low on the SC32 will leave you blinking for a minute afterward. It's no better with the smooth ramping mode either, since it's very hard to get into a level below the stepped low level.

This section is strongly influenced by what is available for purchase within the US. Changes from last time reflect current availability and may be updated before the next list as that changes.

Wurkkos FC11 - a general-use light for $33. USB-C charging, and it now has proper C-to-C support. There's a strong magnet in the tailcap, and a pocket clip for carry. A 25mm (1 inch) diameter and 120mm (4.7 inches) long is suitable for larger pants pockets. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is available for those who miss the look of incandescents. 18650 battery.

Skilhunt M150 with high-CRI Nichia 519A LED option - a smaller everyday carry light with many characteristics similar to the FC11, but a smaller (14500 size) battery and magnetic charging connector. This light can also use AA batteries, both rechargeable and disposable, but the built-in charger only works with a 14500. 21mm (0.82") at its widest point and 84mm (3.3") long. $40

Skilhunt M200 v3 with high-CRI Nichia 519A LED option - a larger everyday carry light with USB-magnetic charging that could be described as a bigger M150 or a nicer FC11. Compared to the FC11, it's smaller and lighter, maintains higher brightness over time, charges faster, and has more pleasant tint. Unlike older versions of this light, the pocket clip is excellent. $64

Acebeam EC35 II, Killzone special edition with SST-20. I swear I'm not trying to favor Killzone here, but this one is a dealer exclusive. The T-word is overused in marketing, but many would describe this as a handheld tactical light or duty light. This is a great option for situations where the user might need light quickly in a stressful situation because the tailswitch is high-only with other functions on the sideswitch. If you think you want a single-mode light, you probably want this instead. USB-C charging (A-to-C again), and it's a USB powerbank (C-to-C works for this). $77 with bundled 18650 battery, $67 if you bring your own battery.

Skilhunt H04 RC with high-CRI Nichia 519A - a headlamp, right-angle handheld, and magnetic work light all in one. This version has a beaded optic with a somewhat diffused beam, but there's also a reflector version with a little more focus. This version has USB-magnetic charging, but it's available without for a lower price. $64 with the optional bundled 18650 battery and coupon code "reddit".

Sofirn SP36 (Anduril/LH351D version) - a large high-output light with three 18650 batteries and a $67 price tag. It has USB-C charging, a USB powerbank function, and a more complex user interface, but basic operation is similar to most of the others in this section. If you need to light up a room for a long time, or light up a field, this is up to the task. I think most people will like 4000K or 5000K, which look like afternoon and midday sunlight, respectively. 2700K is sometimes available for those who miss the look of incandescents.

Thrunite Catapult Pro - a long-range light able to provide fairly good visibility at 500m and detect large objects at twice that. This one doesn't have good color quality of the other options in this section. 26650 battery included, and USB-C charging. Usually $80.

Some things to consider when shopping
Briefly, here are some characteristics that are usually considered desirable. Most of the recommended lights won't have all of them, but these are things to look for when shopping for lights:

• Neutral white tint - the vast majority of people with an opinion prefer a color temperature that's within the range of direct sunlight, which is generally marketed as "neutral white", but sometimes as "warm white"
• A lack of red, or especially green off-tints, beam artifacts and tint shift from the center of the beam to the edges
• A user interface that does not require cycling through different modes to turn off, and does not change modes every time the light is turned off
• A lack of blinking modes within the standard mode rotation, either because the light doesn't have any, or they're "hidden" by being accessed in a different manner than the usual modes
• An IP waterproofing rating - most good lights are rated for IPX8 with the depth and duration of submersion specified by the manufacturer
• A lack of timed stepdowns. Some lights only produce their maximum output for a few minutes at a time. While some powerful lights can get too hot to hold if run on high constantly, the hardware necessary to measure temperature and only reduce power if the light is actually too hot costs only a few cents, but many lights won't overheat badly anyway
• Full-spectrum, or high-CRI for more accurate color rendering. Color rendering index, or CRI is the most common measurement of this; average LEDs are about 70. Over 80 is decent, and over 90 is excellent. The highest I've heard of from an LED is 99. This is more important for seeing detail than absolute output and can be the difference between a stick and a snake on the trail.
• A sub-lumen moonlight mode (for general-use lights)
• A user interface that allows access to the lowest and highest modes from off without having to cycle through other modes
• A user interface where a single click turns the light on in a reasonable mode, and another single click turns it off.