Deco Gear Photo and Video Photography Travel Case for Cameras Lenses and Accessories
Mini Condenser Shotgun Microphone UM-MIC100
50" Adjustable & Folding Professional Full Size Tripod
12" Tabletop Vlogging Tripod/Handheld Grip 2 in 1
Lexar Professional 64GB 800x SDXC Class 10 UHS-I/U3 Memory Card
Corel Paint Shop Pro Software (PC Digital Download)
Corel VideoStudio SE Software (PC Digital Download)
Pro Lens Dust Blower
Lens/Sensor Brush Pen
LCD Screen Protectors
Pack of 2 Microfiber Cloths
Lens Cap Keeper
SD Memory Card Reader
SD Memory Card Storage Case
Key Features:
24.2MP Full-Frame CMOS Sensor
4K60p 10-Bit Internal Video, Canon Log 3
2.36m-Dot OLED Electronic Viewfinder
3.0" 1.62m-Dot Vari-Angle Touchscreen
Dual Pixel CMOS AF II
40 fps Electronic Shutter
Movie Digital IS
Vertical Movie Mode
Microphone Input, Headphone Output
Multi-Function Shoe, Wi-Fi & Bluetooth
Editor's Notes & Price Research
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About this deal:
This camera has been discounted to $1199 across multiple retailers, these retailers offer additional extras or discounts on top of the manufacturer savings.
About this product:
Limited 1-Year Manufacturer Warranty
4.7 out of 5 stars rating at Amazon based on over 200 customer reviews
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Model: Canon EOS R8 Full-Frame Mirrorless Camera (Body Only), RF Mount, 24.2 MP, 4K Video, DIGIC X Image Processor, Subject Detection & Tracking, Compact, Lightweight, Smartphone Connection, Content Creator
Deal History
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
Canon EOS R8 Full-Frame Mirrorless Camera (Body Only), RF Mount, 24.2 MP, 4K Video, DIGIC X Image Processor, Subject Detection & Tracking, Compact, Lightweight, Smartphone Connection, Content Creator
Manufacturer:
Canon USA
Model Number:
5803C002
Product SKU:
B0BTTTH5G6
UPC:
13803351354
ASIN:
B0BTTTH5G6
Brand:
Canon
Item Dimensions LxWxH:
2.76 x 5.22 x 3.39 inches
Item Weight:
1 Pounds
Item model number:
5803C002
Manufacturer:
Canon USA
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No idea why you say IS is mostly for video. Lots of lenses don't have IS built in and it would really help in those cases. Shooting handheld, IS can be great, especially in lower light situations. You could even get cheaper EF lenses without IS and still get the benefits via an adapter with in-body image stabilization. It could actually save money, depending on how many lenses you end up buying.
Depends on use-case -- I would absolutely take the R8 over the R7 due to the full-frame sensor.
Full frame sensor is considerably larger and a 10mm lens will be 10mm equivalent on it. A 50mm will be 50mm on it. The R7 uses a "crop sensor" which is a smaller sensor that doesn't take advantage of the full image produced by the lens, it only uses a "crop" from the center of it. So that 10mm lens will function as if it were a 16mm lens. That 50mm will function as if it were an 80mm lens.
With that said, all "full frame" lenses ("RF" and "EF" (With adapter)) will work on both cameras.. but there are also crop-specific lenses ("RF-S") that are often smaller, lighter and cheaper since they're designed for use on a "Crop Sensor" camera like the R7.
I believe the R7 has built in image stabilization (in the body) so any lens will take advantage of it (good for video and long-length shots, or low light). R7 I think also has 2 card slots.
It depends on what your use-case is and what's important to you -- I prefer the full frame cameras as I mostly do portrait work and use "fast" (f/1.2, f/1.4) lenses and want the nice depth of field and the "full frame" looking image. Someone shooting sports might prefer the extra "zoom" (crop) of the R7, and the extra memory card slot in case one fails. Someone who wants to get into it cheaper (having more affordable RF-S lenses) might also prefer the R7 over the R8
You need to get out more and meet ppl who actually shoot. Noone shoots under 1/125¿ really?
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Would you prefer this over the R7? Seen a post for the R6 but the price is a bit steep. I would be upgrading from the t5i so any of these camera would be a significant upgrade.
Would you prefer this over the R7? Seen a post for the R6 but the price is a bit steep. I would be upgrading from the t5i so any of these camera would be a significant upgrade.
My wife is a photographer (stills mostly), we've done a ton of research on the best budget mirrorless upgrade, and bought an R6 for 1500 (Europe). Huge improvement over old DSLRs. R8 may be a good option for home/light use though. R7 is cropped, not an option.
In a nutshell, the R8 offers excellent image quality, using the same sensor as the R6. It is also the most compact canon full frame camera, making it great for traveling.
As compared to the R6, the cameras big brother, It lacks image stabilization, which is mostly only useful for video, weather sealing, and dual card slots.
Would you prefer this over the R7? Seen a post for the R6 but the price is a bit steep. I would be upgrading from the t5i so any of these camera would be a significant upgrade.
Depends on use-case -- I would absolutely take the R8 over the R7 due to the full-frame sensor.
Full frame sensor is considerably larger and a 10mm lens will be 10mm equivalent on it. A 50mm will be 50mm on it. The R7 uses a "crop sensor" which is a smaller sensor that doesn't take advantage of the full image produced by the lens, it only uses a "crop" from the center of it. So that 10mm lens will function as if it were a 16mm lens. That 50mm will function as if it were an 80mm lens.
With that said, all "full frame" lenses ("RF" and "EF" (With adapter)) will work on both cameras.. but there are also crop-specific lenses ("RF-S") that are often smaller, lighter and cheaper since they're designed for use on a "Crop Sensor" camera like the R7.
I believe the R7 has built in image stabilization (in the body) so any lens will take advantage of it (good for video and long-length shots, or low light). R7 I think also has 2 card slots.
It depends on what your use-case is and what's important to you -- I prefer the full frame cameras as I mostly do portrait work and use "fast" (f/1.2, f/1.4) lenses and want the nice depth of field and the "full frame" looking image. Someone shooting sports might prefer the extra "zoom" (crop) of the R7, and the extra memory card slot in case one fails. Someone who wants to get into it cheaper (having more affordable RF-S lenses) might also prefer the R7 over the R8
In a nutshell, the R8 offers excellent image quality, using the same sensor as the R6. It is also the most compact canon full frame camera, making it great for traveling.
As compared to the R6, the cameras big brother, It lacks image stabilization, which is mostly only useful for video, weather sealing, and dual card slots.
No idea why you say IS is mostly for video. Lots of lenses don't have IS built in and it would really help in those cases. Shooting handheld, IS can be great, especially in lower light situations. You could even get cheaper EF lenses without IS and still get the benefits via an adapter with in-body image stabilization. It could actually save money, depending on how many lenses you end up buying.
No idea why you say IS is mostly for video. Lots of lenses don't have IS built in and it would really help in those cases. Shooting handheld, IS can be great, especially in lower light situations. You could even get cheaper EF lenses without IS and still get the benefits via an adapter with in-body image stabilization. It could actually save money, depending on how many lenses you end up buying.
Most things people take handheld photos of require shutter speeds which are fast enough to freeze movement, and produce an acceptably sharp photo. That fast shutter speed also negates any movement from the camera, which is really the only thing IS does.
So really the only use case for IS in still photography is landscape or still life, but even then, In most landscape scenarios, shooting shutter speeds that low will introduce unacceptable amounts of blur from the wind or other natural movement, producing unsharp photos.
So maybe the use case is night time, landscape photos or trying to induce some blur, such as in moving water and compositing with a faster shot of everything else.
Still, land scape or still life, in dark environments are much better are done better with a tripod, which any advanced amateur, who wouldn't be afraid to spend 1600+ dollars on a camera should be carrying.
That leaves video. And while buttery smooth video is still much better produced using a tripod, slider or gimbal, handheld video is where IS shines.
Frankly, I don't know anyone doing handheld photography that is shooting any lens at less then 1/125 of a second, and at that minimum shutter speed, IS does nothing.
Would you prefer this over the R7? Seen a post for the R6 but the price is a bit steep. I would be upgrading from the t5i so any of these camera would be a significant upgrade.
Get the R6 Mark II on sale or refurbished. The R8 doesn't have IBIS, and the continuous shooting is very fast with excellent auto focus
Would you prefer this over the R7? Seen a post for the R6 but the price is a bit steep. I would be upgrading from the t5i so any of these camera would be a significant upgrade.
Depends on your use, sports and wildlife you are going to like the extra reach of the crop sensor. It's also got a tad more prosumer specs like the in body image stabilization. The r8 on the other hand is a entry level to full frame. While very capable if you shoot portraits or landscapes you might prefer the larger sensor and better light handling. It's very similar to the r6ii with a few sacrifices for a decent discount.
For a beginner to enthusiast stills/ portraits, landscapes, product, street photography R8 offers the best value for your money. I have been shooting for a while but mostly amateur/ enthusiast level. started with film cameras and keep upgrading every 3 years to keep up with the amazing tech. SL1, 6D and now R8. Take action shots of dogs, my 4 and 2 year old and have EF 70-200 2.8L, RF 35mm 1.8, and EF 100L macro. This camera made a huge difference in the output and I was stunned. If you have a fast lens or one that has IS built in, don't see the value of R6 mark 2. This R8 has same sensor/ dig processor and offers almost everything you need unless you are doing pro level shoots imo. This allows you to unleash your potential for sure. But if money no object go for r6 mark 2 and you will be slightly more future proof.
Depends on use-case -- I would absolutely take the R8 over the R7 due to the full-frame sensor.
Full frame sensor is considerably larger and a 10mm lens will be 10mm equivalent on it. A 50mm will be 50mm on it. The R7 uses a "crop sensor" which is a smaller sensor that doesn't take advantage of the full image produced by the lens, it only uses a "crop" from the center of it. So that 10mm lens will function as if it were a 16mm lens. That 50mm will function as if it were an 80mm lens.
With that said, all "full frame" lenses ("RF" and "EF" (With adapter)) will work on both cameras.. but there are also crop-specific lenses ("RF-S") that are often smaller, lighter and cheaper since they're designed for use on a "Crop Sensor" camera like the R7.
I believe the R7 has built in image stabilization (in the body) so any lens will take advantage of it (good for video and long-length shots, or low light). R7 I think also has 2 card slots.
It depends on what your use-case is and what's important to you -- I prefer the full frame cameras as I mostly do portrait work and use "fast" (f/1.2, f/1.4) lenses and want the nice depth of field and the "full frame" looking image. Someone shooting sports might prefer the extra "zoom" (crop) of the R7, and the extra memory card slot in case one fails. Someone who wants to get into it cheaper (having more affordable RF-S lenses) might also prefer the R7 over the R8
Is it fair to say a 50mm F/1.8 lens on a crop camera would give the same quality image as a 80mm F/2.8 on a full frame? Assuming identical optics quality, of course.
I heard that the depth of field and zoom needs to be multiplied by the same 1.5 or 1.6 factor, but didn't know what else changes. TIA!
Is it fair to say a 50mm F/1.8 lens on a crop camera would give the same quality image as a 80mm F/2.8 on a full frame? Assuming identical optics quality, of course.
I heard that the depth of field and zoom needs to be multiplied by the same 1.5 or 1.6 factor, but didn't know what else changes. TIA!
That might be a good comparison -- you do lose some of the 'depth of field' benefits that are more noticeable on a full frame, plus you're using the entire image from the lens versus a "crop" of the center.
For most people, they probably won't notice, really. It becomes more apparent when you're buying the fast lenses (like the 1.2, 1.4, etc..)
What it does is basically take the same final image as a 50mm lens on a full frame, but simply crop into it. Probably the best way to get an idea of what it will look like, is to download a full resolution image from a fullframe camera (like the R6 or R8) and then crop into it at 1.6x crop -- but imagine that with a higher resolution on the final crop. Feel free to shoot me a DM if you want and I can mock something up as an example of what the difference might look like!
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Full frame sensor is considerably larger and a 10mm lens will be 10mm equivalent on it. A 50mm will be 50mm on it. The R7 uses a "crop sensor" which is a smaller sensor that doesn't take advantage of the full image produced by the lens, it only uses a "crop" from the center of it. So that 10mm lens will function as if it were a 16mm lens. That 50mm will function as if it were an 80mm lens.
With that said, all "full frame" lenses ("RF" and "EF" (With adapter)) will work on both cameras.. but there are also crop-specific lenses ("RF-S") that are often smaller, lighter and cheaper since they're designed for use on a "Crop Sensor" camera like the R7.
I believe the R7 has built in image stabilization (in the body) so any lens will take advantage of it (good for video and long-length shots, or low light). R7 I think also has 2 card slots.
It depends on what your use-case is and what's important to you -- I prefer the full frame cameras as I mostly do portrait work and use "fast" (f/1.2, f/1.4) lenses and want the nice depth of field and the "full frame" looking image. Someone shooting sports might prefer the extra "zoom" (crop) of the R7, and the extra memory card slot in case one fails. Someone who wants to get into it cheaper (having more affordable RF-S lenses) might also prefer the R7 over the R8
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As compared to the R6, the cameras big brother, It lacks image stabilization, which is mostly only useful for video, weather sealing, and dual card slots.
Full frame sensor is considerably larger and a 10mm lens will be 10mm equivalent on it. A 50mm will be 50mm on it. The R7 uses a "crop sensor" which is a smaller sensor that doesn't take advantage of the full image produced by the lens, it only uses a "crop" from the center of it. So that 10mm lens will function as if it were a 16mm lens. That 50mm will function as if it were an 80mm lens.
With that said, all "full frame" lenses ("RF" and "EF" (With adapter)) will work on both cameras.. but there are also crop-specific lenses ("RF-S") that are often smaller, lighter and cheaper since they're designed for use on a "Crop Sensor" camera like the R7.
I believe the R7 has built in image stabilization (in the body) so any lens will take advantage of it (good for video and long-length shots, or low light). R7 I think also has 2 card slots.
It depends on what your use-case is and what's important to you -- I prefer the full frame cameras as I mostly do portrait work and use "fast" (f/1.2, f/1.4) lenses and want the nice depth of field and the "full frame" looking image. Someone shooting sports might prefer the extra "zoom" (crop) of the R7, and the extra memory card slot in case one fails. Someone who wants to get into it cheaper (having more affordable RF-S lenses) might also prefer the R7 over the R8
As compared to the R6, the cameras big brother, It lacks image stabilization, which is mostly only useful for video, weather sealing, and dual card slots.
No idea why you say IS is mostly for video. Lots of lenses don't have IS built in and it would really help in those cases. Shooting handheld, IS can be great, especially in lower light situations. You could even get cheaper EF lenses without IS and still get the benefits via an adapter with in-body image stabilization. It could actually save money, depending on how many lenses you end up buying.
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Most things people take handheld photos of require shutter speeds which are fast enough to freeze movement, and produce an acceptably sharp photo. That fast shutter speed also negates any movement from the camera, which is really the only thing IS does.
So really the only use case for IS in still photography is landscape or still life, but even then, In most landscape scenarios, shooting shutter speeds that low will introduce unacceptable amounts of blur from the wind or other natural movement, producing unsharp photos.
So maybe the use case is night time, landscape photos or trying to induce some blur, such as in moving water and compositing with a faster shot of everything else.
Still, land scape or still life, in dark environments are much better are done better with a tripod, which any advanced amateur, who wouldn't be afraid to spend 1600+ dollars on a camera should be carrying.
That leaves video. And while buttery smooth video is still much better produced using a tripod, slider or gimbal, handheld video is where IS shines.
Frankly, I don't know anyone doing handheld photography that is shooting any lens at less then 1/125 of a second, and at that minimum shutter speed, IS does nothing.
Get the R6 Mark II on sale or refurbished. The R8 doesn't have IBIS, and the continuous shooting is very fast with excellent auto focus
Depends on your use, sports and wildlife you are going to like the extra reach of the crop sensor. It's also got a tad more prosumer specs like the in body image stabilization. The r8 on the other hand is a entry level to full frame. While very capable if you shoot portraits or landscapes you might prefer the larger sensor and better light handling. It's very similar to the r6ii with a few sacrifices for a decent discount.
Full frame sensor is considerably larger and a 10mm lens will be 10mm equivalent on it. A 50mm will be 50mm on it. The R7 uses a "crop sensor" which is a smaller sensor that doesn't take advantage of the full image produced by the lens, it only uses a "crop" from the center of it. So that 10mm lens will function as if it were a 16mm lens. That 50mm will function as if it were an 80mm lens.
With that said, all "full frame" lenses ("RF" and "EF" (With adapter)) will work on both cameras.. but there are also crop-specific lenses ("RF-S") that are often smaller, lighter and cheaper since they're designed for use on a "Crop Sensor" camera like the R7.
I believe the R7 has built in image stabilization (in the body) so any lens will take advantage of it (good for video and long-length shots, or low light). R7 I think also has 2 card slots.
It depends on what your use-case is and what's important to you -- I prefer the full frame cameras as I mostly do portrait work and use "fast" (f/1.2, f/1.4) lenses and want the nice depth of field and the "full frame" looking image. Someone shooting sports might prefer the extra "zoom" (crop) of the R7, and the extra memory card slot in case one fails. Someone who wants to get into it cheaper (having more affordable RF-S lenses) might also prefer the R7 over the R8
Is it fair to say a 50mm F/1.8 lens on a crop camera would give the same quality image as a 80mm F/2.8 on a full frame? Assuming identical optics quality, of course.
I heard that the depth of field and zoom needs to be multiplied by the same 1.5 or 1.6 factor, but didn't know what else changes. TIA!
I heard that the depth of field and zoom needs to be multiplied by the same 1.5 or 1.6 factor, but didn't know what else changes. TIA!
For most people, they probably won't notice, really. It becomes more apparent when you're buying the fast lenses (like the 1.2, 1.4, etc..)
What it does is basically take the same final image as a 50mm lens on a full frame, but simply crop into it. Probably the best way to get an idea of what it will look like, is to download a full resolution image from a fullframe camera (like the R6 or R8) and then crop into it at 1.6x crop -- but imagine that with a higher resolution on the final crop. Feel free to shoot me a DM if you want and I can mock something up as an example of what the difference might look like!