I had previous version of this 1.5 ton is a frighteningly low rating for most modern cars... even the tiny ones. I used mine on a 1960's Datsun pickup that weighed 2100#. On the slightest angled driveway (barely 3" rise over 40'), the jack frame would try torquing to the side. It was to scary to keep. I hope this one is better. I bet it's not. I now have the Daytona Super Duty long reach low profile. It's heavier than a battleship and costs 4x this aluminum one, but it doesn't do scary things when in use.
Have 2 of these, one for a Camry and one for a Toyota minivan. Only used for brake jobs and changing tires when I only lifted one side. Been working perfect for a few years now. I'm sure if you try and lift the front all at once you may have problems.
Have 2 of these, one for a Camry and one for a Toyota minivan. Only used for brake jobs and changing tires when I only lifted one side. Been working perfect for a few years now. I'm sure if you try and lift the front all at once you may have problems.
I had previous version of this 1.5 ton is a frighteningly low rating for most modern cars... even the tiny ones. I used mine on a 1960's Datsun pickup that weighed 2100#. On the slightest angled driveway (barely 3" rise over 40'), the jack frame would try torquing to the side. It was to scary to keep. I hope this one is better. I bet it's not. I now have the Daytona Super Duty long reach low profile. It's heavier than a battleship and costs 4x this aluminum one, but it doesn't do scary things when in use.
/2 cents
I have one of the previous versions too and I agree, it's not the best. I use it mostly to initially lift a low car to get my 3 ton jack under the subframe.
I have one of the previous versions too and I agree, it's not the best. I use it mostly to initially lift a low car to get my 3 ton jack under the subframe.
I currently use my motorcycle jack for this too lol
Have used it to change tires on both a Tesla Model Y and a Chrysler Pacifica (4500+ lbs each). It's fine for a corner at a time, but if you're getting underneath make sure to use jackstands.
always usa a jack stand, this is perfect for track heads doing wheel swap. its light and lift the car. if any yall using a jack without jackstand the you guys are definetly gambling if youre ever under the car.
For the use cases listed above where this jack is not strictly necessary - there may be some people out there who are unfamiliar with compact "trolley" jacks. I got by for years with one of these (when 5-13" was a reasonable lifting range for the vehicles I owned, and 13"/14" wheels were a thing), and I still use it for random tasks involving subframe assemblies, sprung control arms, etc. I can grab the jack with one hand and position it wherever I want, but the saddle is far nicer than a bottle jack.
They're cheaper than this, and they appear to come in 3.3" - 15.2" "low profile" flavors nowadays, although I can't find a better-named example at the moment than "Gnrolaz".
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/2 cents
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/2 cents
I have one of the previous versions too and I agree, it's not the best. I use it mostly to initially lift a low car to get my 3 ton jack under the subframe.
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I currently use my motorcycle jack for this too lol
They're cheaper than this, and they appear to come in 3.3" - 15.2" "low profile" flavors nowadays, although I can't find a better-named example at the moment than "Gnrolaz".
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-2-Ton-Trolley-Jack/1960051717
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Profile-Hydraulic-Capacity-Automotive/dp/B0CGR36YZ2 [walmart.com]