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Costco Members: HP 14" Laptop: i3-1005G1, 4GB DDR4, 128GB SSD, Win 10 S EXPIRED

$280
$399.99
+ Free Shipping
+420 Deal Score
643,324 Views
Costco Wholesale has for its Members: HP 14" Laptop (14-dq1033cl) on sale for $279.99. Shipping is free. Thanks delz4stelz

Note, non-members are subject to a 5% surcharge making total $299.99

Specs:
  • Intel Core i3-1005G1 1.2GHz Processor
  • 14" IPS BrightView WLED-Backlit FHD 1920x1080 Display
  • 4GB DDR4 2666 SDRAM
  • 128GB M.2 Solid State Drive
  • Intel UHD Graphics
  • 802.11ac (2x2) Wifi + Bluetooth 5.0
  • 3-Cell 41WHr Lithium-Ion Battery
  • Windows 10 S Mode
  • Weight: 3.24 lbs
  • Ports:
    • 1x USB 3.1 Type-C
    • 2x USB 3.1 Type-A
    • 1x HDMI 1.4b
    • 1x Multi-Format Digital Media Card Reader
    • 1x Combination Headphone-Out/Microphone-In Jack
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Editor's Notes & Price Research

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Offer is valid through November 21, 2019. Includes 2-Year warranty. -slickdewmaster

Original Post

Written by
Edited November 12, 2019 at 11:40 AM by
Costco Wholesale

HP Laptop: 10th Gen Intel Core i3-1005G1 Dual-Core, 14" 1080p IPS, 4GB DDR4, 128GB SSD, Type-C, Backlit Keyboard, 3-cell, Win 10 S $279.99 + Free Shipping
https://www.costco.com/hp-14%22-l...11171.html

Model: 14-dq1033cl
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Last Edited by kuttoosan December 7, 2019 at 04:42 PM
Sale ends TODAY 11/21/2019

TO ENTER BIOS: On Boot, hit F10 key

BATTERY REPORT:
1. Open CommandPrompt
2. Type in: powercfg /batteryreport
3. Copy link where report is located. (or find the location in file explorer)
4. Open HTML report

Last years version was FRONT PAGE with a HUGE amount of info here https://slickdeals.net/f/12270274-costco-members-hp-14-laptop-i3-8130u-4gb-ddr4-128gb-ssd-315?src=frontpage

Compared to last year's deal this one lacks the Ethernet port. Processor is an i5 vs an 8th gen i3, and is about twice as fast on multithreaded tasks/when benchmarked.
Also see review on intel 10th generation cpu

https://www.trustedreviews.com/ne...ce-3642152

Look for JackT's post on the 4th page for detailed info on upgrades, case open pics, how to open the case, etc.
Link: https://slickdeals.net/f/13524451-costco-members-hp-14-laptop-i3-1005g1-4gb-ddr4-128gb-ssd-win-10-s-280-free-shipping?v=1&p=131670541#post131670541


Youtube video of removing the bottom cover. Found on RedFlagDeals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?tim...e=emb_logo

HINTS ON REMOVING BOTTOM SCREWS
1. Review Screw locations in JackT's images above.
2. Have the following tools ready:
- guitar pick (thin but firm);
- credit card/gift card;
- precision phillips screwdriver;
- hair dryer
- cleaned hands/fingers
3. Remove the exposed screws (4)

NOTE: the adhesive under the strip (especially the thinner rubber strip farthest from the hinges) is on some plastic, so if that plastic stays on the laptop, you'll need to pry that plastic from over the screw. Happened to me only on the thinner rubber strip, so YMMV.
4. (2 screws) Rubber strip top (near hinges) - left side when hinges are farthest away from you
- Using hair dryer about 1" overtop, heat the left edge to about 4" in (~10 sec)
- using credit card corner edge, push strip edge (horizontally) down to dislodge from base
- pry up corner of strip with credit card once strip dislodged.
- DO NOT TOUCH the Bottom with fingers; stick the bottom of the strip (1/2" worth) on the credit card and peel away slowly exposing both screws on the left side.
- using screwdriver, unscrew both slowly with adequate pressure down but avoiding stripping screws as best as possible.
- grasping the side of the strip, place it back down with the end first - align strip end back to where it was originally and then smooth out the rest of the strip.
- reheat the strip to re-soften the adhesive to stick the strip.
5. (1 screw) Rubber strip top (near hinges) - right side when hinges are farthest away from you
- Using hair dryer about 1" overtop, heat the right edge to about 2" in (~10 sec)
- using credit card corner edge, push strip edge (horizontally) down to dislodge from base
- pry up corner of strip with credit card once strip dislodged.
- DO NOT TOUCH the Bottom with fingers; stick the bottom of the strip (1/2" worth) on the credit card and peel away slowly exposing both screws on the left side.
- using screwdriver, unscrew screw with adequate pressure down but avoiding stripping screw as best as possible.
- grasping the side of the strip, place it back down with the end first - align strip end back to where it was originally and then smooth out the rest of the strip.
- reheat the strip to re-soften the adhesive to stick the strip.
6. (1 screw) Bottom strip - only LEFT side needed when hinges are farthest from you.
- Using hair dryer about 1" overtop, heat the left edge to about 5" in (~10 sec)
- using credit card corner edge, push strip edge (horizontally) up or down to dislodge from base
- pry up corner of strip with credit card once strip dislodged.
- DO NOT TOUCH the Bottom with fingers; stick the bottom of the strip (1/2" worth) on the credit card and peel away slowly exposing the screw on the left side (~3-4" from the left). see note above about plastic adhesive.
- using screwdriver, unscrew screw with adequate pressure down but avoiding stripping screw as best as possible.
- grasping the side of the strip, place it back down with the end first - align strip end back to where it was originally and then smooth out the rest of the strip.
- reheat the strip to re-soften the adhesive to stick the strip.

Once all 8 screws are removed, open the laptop and work the gap in between the bottom cover and keyboard edges. I did the right side and it popped free well. Work your down and around the bottom corner slightly. From there try prying the bottom away a little with fingers. If you get a larger gap, a credit card/gift card can be used. Keep working the edge with the pick until 2 of the 4 sides are free. Then, close the laptop and peel back the plastic bottom to see if the clips become free.
(Slight marring of the silver painted plastic visible, so maybe fold a paper towel over the guitar pick.)

Replacing the cover and screws is just reverse of the above with following the same steps for rubber strip removal. If fixing trackpad, do the fix below before rescrewing.

TRACKPAD METAL STRIP fix:
Remove (4) screws holding battery.
Remove (3) screws holding bottom trackpad rail.
Bend the rail SLIGHTLY concave (viewed from screw tops). Too much will result in non response by buttons. No need to put any crease in the rail.
Before rescrewing everything,
- place the bottom cover on loosely and check the trackpad for feel/rattle/etc.
- place the bottom cover on fully and boot up to check functionality of trackpad.
- if all is good, rescrew bottom cover on.

Positives -
Nice IPS screen, ~57% srgb coverage, 6-bit panel, NON-dithered, it's not dithered to 8bit, Output is 262 thousand colors vs 16.7 million on 8bit types -- This doesn't matter except maybe for photoshop--
Average CPU PassMark = 5929 (if you get the i3)
Average CPU PassMark = 9322 (if you get the i5)

Both of these are quite fast for a budget laptop, and likely to be an upgrade for most who aren't running current-gen i5-8xxx-series desktops or newer.

No major effort to upgrade


It appears the system is on a Intel Core i5-1035G4, and not the i3. Please see page 3-5 for more details.

The display model in Costco is typically an i5; check about this computer . Some have received orders from UPS and booted up showing i5-1035G4 CPU, even though online order says i3.

The i5 in these may have been due to intel not being able deliver enough i3's... Some reports now of new shipments of i3's arriving in stores. YMMV.

HP product page - Drivers and Disassembly manual:-

https://support.hp.com/gb-en/prod...13/manuals



Below are the upgrades that will make this a $450 laptop that will maximize the value of the 10th Gen i5 that IS THE DEAL of this post! Just make sure to remove the crapware and only run Windows Defender.


Best memory upgrade, this will get you to the sweet spot of this machine:
https://www.newegg.com/crucial-16...-_-Product
$50 (2x8; expired): https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16...-_-Product
$55 (1x16): https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16...6820232168

Best SSD upgrade factoring reliability, capacity, speed and cost:
https://www.samsung.com/us/comput...7s500b-am/
$60 (same 3x4; 2280; Phison controller): https://www.microcenter.com/produ...tate-drive
(Newegg BF deal - not live yet) - $83: 1 TB Intel 660p


32GB (2x16) Kingston Hyper-X 3200MHz CL20 [amazon.com] for $201 ($166 open box) is the best RAM Money can buy right now if you can afford it, and the price is worth for 32GB 10th gen intel CPU maxed speed RAM, as 16GB 3200MHz (2x8GB) goes for $110 or so.
you could invest in it now now, keep your 4GB chip the laptop comes in with, and 3-4 years down the road, transfer that 32GB dual channel RAM kit to the next Laptop you buy..

Fan Noise:

First of all this is i5 and powerful, even that is only 15W CPU it will produce heat, that's due to the 4 cores - 8 threads - double the i3. Also HP did poor job with the heatsink as it is too small to draw heat, only 1 fan, most likely pretty bad quality and shallow, good enough for i3 was supposed to ship with i suppose.

That been said, if you really want to make a little bit of temperature drop, google some repaste youtube videos and do that, should drop temps 5°-6° and somehow reduce the need of the fans to run, next:

Obviously debloating will help, because CPU will have to work less, so uninstall programs you won't be using, especially HP stuff and Antivirus.. anything that isn't Microsoft, Windows, Drivers & Updates need to go as a clean start, then:

Quoted kubavance:
I think the general consensus regarding the fan is a little off the mark. We perceive the fan to be loud and obnoxious because of its "whistling" quality, but I'm 99% sure the whistling is not caused by the fan, but rather the design of the exhaust vent. If you take a look at the exhaust vent, you can see that two of the ports are constricted by additional plastic material (see attached). I would bet money that the two smaller exhaust holes are responsible for the whistling. When I cover them up with a credit card, the whistling goes away. I haven't disassembled my laptop yet, but when I do, I'm going to find some way to plug/block the undersized ports. I expect this will take care of the whistling.

I've also successfully applied a -100mv undervolt and capped the turbo speeds on battery. This seems to have helped with the fans a little bit, but I think whatever algorithm controls the fans isn't allowing them to ramp down fully when the CPU idles again after a heavy load. Then again, I am still running the stock OS image, so there could just be a bunch of crap running in the background. I'll do a clean install after I (hopefully) pickup a larger SSD during BF sales.

To turn off the HP services running in background (they are not programs to uninstall) what you need to do is this:

1. Click on start Menu and navigate to "Windows System" folder
2. Expand it and click on "Run" program
3. Type "msconfig" (without the " ") and hit Enter
4. A new window will open, navigate to "Services" Tab
5. Click on the "Status" tab of that window and sort it by Running
6. There you will see the 4 HP Services running, uncheck the boxes:
-HP Analytics service
-HP App Helper HSA Service
-HP Network HSA Service
-HP System Info HSA Service
7. Hit "Apply"
8. Restart

All and all, it does run a bit hot, and the fan is mostly on in any moderate to heavy work or gaming i play some WoW on it, and runs it at 60 frames 1080p on minimal setting with just the 4GB RAM it came with, but does get hot..

For the price of $280+tax it cant be beat, with normal daily task the fans shouldnt be on much at all. there wont be a better deal this BF season, this was like price mistake by $150+
If you using it on a desk, not burning your lap, and dont mind the fans when the CPU is under load its great !!!

Quoted Qubavance:
I'm not going to make assumptions about how much you know about modern processors, so I'll just mention some basics. Ever since the invention of turbo boosting, pretty much all processors "throttle" under load. The CPU uses a complicated algorithm to determine which frequency each core should run at in any given moment. The algorithm takes into account power limits and temperature sensor data and the duration of heavy workloads, among other things.

Intel and to a lesser extent the device manufacturer can set power limits for the processor to make sure the processor can run safely in a given chassis. These are known as PL1 and PL2. The CPU can only run in PL2 for a limited time (we're talking seconds or minutes) before it has to throttle back to PL1 to maintain reasonable temperatures. From my very limited testing, it would appear that PL2 for this laptop is set at around 26W, and PL1 is around 18W. Remember, this is a 15W processor.

The new Dell XPS 13 2-in-1 has the Core i7 version of the same Ice Lake processor found in this HP, only its configured for 25W. This means that the Dell chassis has theoretically been designed to dissipate at least 10W more of heat. It's also an $1,800 laptop with 16GB of memory. It should have a huge advantage. According to notebookcheck's review (https://www.notebookcheck.net/Del...573.0.html), the Dell XPS 13 achieves a high score of ~830 the first several times you run Cinebench R15 before thermal soak sets in (meaning it gets capped to PL1), after which it scores about 660 consistently.

I just ran Cinebench R15 about 10 times in a row on my HP 14 and got about 580 consistently (first run was about 600). CPU power held steady at 18W and temperatures hovered around 75 degrees Celsius. That's not throttling--that's working as designed.

Are you really that disappointed that your $280 laptop (with a HUGE RAM disadvantage) only scores within 10-15% of an $1800 Dell?



Update your Bios from F.04 to F.07.

Start Menu > Device Manager > System Firmware > Update Driver

F.07 Bios is not listed at HP support site, so we don,t have a change log yet.

For those encountering issues with the touchpad driver and 1909 on a fresh install its a SUPER easy fix:

download the latest touchpad driver from here:

https://support.hp.com/gb-en/driv...l/31046513

Then attempt to install the driver (it will eventually fail saying something about it not being compatible with the OS.

Close the prompt and then go into C:\swsetup\SP99388

Then right click edit the Install.cmd (may only show up as Install) file located in that directory

Once you have that file open change This:

https://imgur.com/a/Jhj4Bvv

to this:

https://imgur.com/a/CH3r894

All you do is edit the "19H1" to say "19H2" and the two locations where it says "10.0.18362" to "10.0.18363"

Save your changes and launch HPSetup.exe, once thats done reboot and bam no more errors in the device manager.


OVERALL APPROX UPGRADE COSTS
DIY upgrades
- add single stick 8GB RAM ($35); 16GB RAM ($55)
- add m.2 SSD (256GB: $40; 512GB: $60; or 1TB: $99)

RESULT (depending on how you DIY upgrade):
1080p, 10th Gen (Ice Lake) i5-1035G4, 12GB RAM, 256GB SSD: $355 + tax
1080p, 10th Gen (Ice Lake) i5-1035G4, 12GB RAM, 512GB SSD: $375 + tax
1080p, 10th Gen (Ice Lake) i5-1035G4, 12GB RAM, 1TB SSD: $415 + tax
1080p, 10th Gen (Ice Lake) i5-1035G4, 20GB RAM, 256GB SSD: $375 + tax
1080p, 10th Gen (Ice Lake) i5-1035G4, 20GB RAM, 512GB SSD: $395 + tax
1080p, 10th Gen (Ice Lake) i5-1035G4, 20GB RAM, 1TB SSD: $435 + tax

3,670 Comments

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Featured Comments

I've already opened up and upgraded this laptop.


Removing the back cover to do upgrades:
There are 8 Philips-head screws altogether, all on the back cover. 4 of them are underneath the two rubber strips. The rubber strips are attached using double-sided tape with a strong adhesive, so be careful when removing them and try not to separate the tape from the rubber strip. Tip from @msk12: Heat up and loosen the adhesive before removing the rubber feet. I haven't done this before, but maybe a blow dryer or a cloth bag filled with microwaved uncooked rice would work. You don't need to completely remove the rubber strips- just peel back enough to expose the screws. There is an image of all the screw locations in the link below. Also be careful not to pull outward or pull very hard, as you'll stretch the rubber strip that way. Just very slowly but firmly pull it upward, almost as if you are rolling it off. You'll need a pretty thin plastic spudger to detach all the clips holding the bottom cover to the laptop. A credit card may be too thick. Photos of the inside of the laptop, the inside of the back cover, the screw locations, and where to use the spudger to remove the back cover: https://imgur.com/a/zXufcNv


CPU:
The CPU is indeed an i5-1035G4. I got two of them in Los Angeles and both have this CPU. At first I couldn't believe it, but I ran CPU-Z and it's definitely confirmed. On 11/15/19 two people confirmed that they received units with the same model number but with the i3 CPU. The side of the box will say which CPU is in the box- there are some posts in this thread showing a picture of the label on the side of the box. When buying at the warehouse, I recommend going to the merchandise pickup window first and asking to see the side of the box to confirm that it has the i5 CPU. Then ask them nicely to hold that box for a few minutes while you go pay for it at checkout.

One point of concern is that in the pre-installed HP Support Assistant app as well as on the motherboard it says "model number 14-dq1033cl". The spec sheet for that model on the HP website says the CPU is an Intel® Core™ i3-1005G1. https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c06463284 Not sure what would happen if this computer needs a warranty motherboard/CPU replacement. if you check Windows System Information for the model number, it says "HP Laptop 14-dq1xxx".

Intel has had a lot of production problems with these 10nm Ice Lake chips. My theory on why this system has this upgraded CPU is that at the last minute Intel had trouble supplying the lower-end i3 chips so they or HP decided to just use these i5 chips so they can meet Costco's delivery expectations. HP would not normally pair this CPU with such little memory and slow SATA storage.


Integrated Graphics:
The new Ice Lake CPUs come with 3 integrated graphics options, as indicated by the last 2 characters in the CPU's model number:
- G1, basic
- G4, intermediate
- G7, highest level

G4 and G7 are labeled Iris Plus Graphics. This model has G4 graphics.


Storage:
The laptop comes with a M.2 SATA interface SSD, but I replaced it with a HP EX920 1TB NVMe SSD. The new SSD works just fine, so this laptop is compatible with NVMe drives. The easiest way to put Windows on a new SSD drive would be:
1) create a recovery thumb drive from the laptop itself, within Windows. Start menu > Recovery Drive
2) Swap out the SSD
3) Boot up to the USB drive. Just insert the thumb drive and turn on the laptop. It'll boot from the USB drive when it can't find an operating system on your new SSD drive.
4) Restore windows to the new SSD drive from the USB drive.

There are a number of posts in this thread with instructions on how to do a clean installation of Windows, which would install Windows without the bloatware that came with the laptop. It's easy to get stuck in a Catch-22 using this method, where you need to connect to the internet to exit S Mode before you can install the WiFi driver and all the other drivers, but you can't exit S Mode or connect to the internet until you've installed the WiFi driver. If you want to go this route, be sure to read the thread carefully and have a plan for installing the WiFi driver.

There is a space next to the battery where a 2.5" drive would fit, but if you look at the photo I attached of the inside of the back cover you'll see that there's a lattice-like grid on it to give that empty space some rigidity. I haven't tried, but it looks like you cannot put a 2.5" drive there.


Memory:
There are 2 upgradable SODIMM slots. No DRAM is soldered to the motherboard. The laptop comes with a single 4GB SODIMM, and 1 empty slot. I installed Crucial 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 2666 MT/s (PC4-21300) SR x8 SODIMM 260-Pin Memory - CT2K8G4SFS8266 and it works well. The Crucial website actually recommends DDR4 3200, but the 4GB SODIMM that came with the laptop is DDR4 2666.


WiFi/Bluetooth - Support for WiFi 6:
The laptop comes with a Realtek RTL8822CE 2x2 WiFi AC + BT 5 module. They're used in a lot of laptops, including models that are much more expensive than this one. However, there are definitely more complaints about problems with the Realtek wireless cards compared to the Intel cards on the HP support forums, so I decided to switch to an Intel card since I had the laptop opened up anyway. This laptop will work with an Intel WiFi AX200 WiFi 6 + Bluetooth 5 module. You're gonna need to have the AX200 driver on a thumb drive before you install the WiFi module, as you won't be able to connect to the internet to download the new driver after you replace the Realtek module that came with the laptop. https://downloadcenter.intel.com/...Fi-6-AX200


No USB-C charging or DisplayPort/HDMI output via USB-C:
As per the specs, the USB-C port doesn't have Power Delivery or Extended USB-C capabilities (namely DisplayPort & HDMI output). So essentially the USB-C port functions like a regular USB 3.0 Type-A port. Someone in this thread tested this and confirmed that this model has no charging or video output through the USB-C port.


Fan noise:
I've been using two of these laptops for several days now. I'm pretty sensitive to fan noise because my prior laptop has a very quiet fan, even at its highest speed. The fan on this HP seems to have two or three speeds. The lowest speed I can only hear if I put my ear to the unit. I'm not even sure there is a low fan speed- I may just be hearing the components hum. The medium setting I find noticeable but not a big deal since I usually have music or a podcast on when I'm working. The high setting definitely is distracting. Both of my units have a very faint high-pitched whine when the fan is spinning at high, slightly more noticeable on one unit than the other.

After all the setting up and updating is done, when you're just using it, the fan doesn't ramp up that often. And when it does turn on, it doesn't stay on medium or high speed for very long. It runs quiet 90-95% of the time for me. This is for regular web browsing and office apps, either on my lap or on my desk connected to a DisplayLink device driving two 1920x1200 displays and a bunch of peripherals. When it's on my desk it's on a stand that's open underneath to allow for ventilation.


Loose and rattling touchpad:
One of my units came with a loose touchpad that made a clicking sound when I tapped on it very lightly. Here's how to fix a loose touchpad on this unit: https://imgur.com/a/zXufcNv
Start with the photo that says "Removing the battery"


DisplayLink bug and installing drivers not pre-approved by HP:
If you have one of those popular DisplayLink USB 3.0 docking stations, there's a bug with Chrome's hardware acceleration mode that causes a lot of lag on screens that are driven by the DisplayLink device. To fix it, you need to install the latest Intel graphics driver. HP blocks the usual method of running the downloaded executable, so you will have to download the driver ZIP file and install it in Device Manager.
Intel graphics driver ZIP file: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/...uct=197599
Special instructions for installing the driver (regular method won't work): https://www.intel.co.uk/content/w...ivers.html
You can follow those same instructions to install drivers that HP hasn't vetted and approved yet, when the executable driver installation file doesn't work.


Changing from Windows 10 Home S Mode to regular Windows 10 Home:
Instructions here: https://support.microsoft.com/en-...-of-s-mode
Also, the BIOS it came with is F.04, which looks like the most current version. I downloaded the BIOS update from the HP website and installed it anyway for good measure. After I did that, it reverted my Windows installation back to S Mode and I could not get it to switch out of S mode. I had to reset Windows and then I was able to switch it out of S mode again. https://support.microsoft.com/en-...-reinstall
One major concern with this issue is that future BIOS updates may have the same bug, and setting up Windows all over again after having used the computer for a while may be a lot of work.


Costco Price Adjustment:
If you bought this laptop at $400 before it went on sale today for $280, Costco won't do a price adjustment for you because this sale is part of their holiday promo book and those items are limited to availability. So you'll have to buy a new one at the lower price and do a return with the previous $400 receipt. You can actually return the new unopened one you just bought using the old receipt.


Chase Freedom Card 5% Cash Back if used via Chase Pay connected to Samsung Pay:
If buying in-store and a) you have a Chase Freedom Card and b) you have Samsung Pay:
1) Activate the Q4 2019 bonus categories, which are a) department stores, b) PayPal, and c) Chase Pay
https://creditcards.chase.com/fre...cards/home
2) Connect your Freedom Card to Chase Pay
3) Connect Chase Pay to Samsung Pay
4) Connect your Freedom Card to Samsung Pay through Chase Pay. You can't just enter the card number directly into Samsung Pay.
5) Pay for your purchase using Samsung Pay. Be sure to select your Chase Freedom Card. You'll get 5% cash back.
233 Helpful?
You have clearly already checked out, and that's perfectly fine. I'm going to respond anyway to clear up what I consider to be some misconceptions regarding this $280 laptop. I'd hate for people to start second-guessing their purchase just because they read some negative comments.

I'm not going to make assumptions about how much you know about modern processors, so I'll just mention some basics. Ever since the invention of turbo boosting, pretty much all processors "throttle" under load. The CPU uses a complicated algorithm to determine which frequency each core should run at in any given moment. The algorithm takes into account power limits and temperature sensor data and the duration of heavy workloads, among other things.

Intel and to a lesser extent the device manufacturer can set power limits for the processor to make sure the processor can run safely in a given chassis. These are known as PL1 and PL2. The CPU can only run in PL2 for a limited time (we're talking seconds or minutes) before it has to throttle back to PL1 to maintain reasonable temperatures. From my very limited testing, it would appear that PL2 for this laptop is set at around 26W, and PL1 is around 18W. Remember, this is a 15W processor.

The new Dell XPS 13 2-in-1 has the Core i7 version of the same Ice Lake processor found in this HP, only its configured for 25W. This means that the Dell chassis has theoretically been designed to dissipate at least 10W more of heat. It's also an $1,800 laptop with 16GB of memory. It should have a huge advantage. According to notebookcheck's review (https://www.notebookcheck.net/Del...573.0.html), the Dell XPS 13 achieves a high score of ~830 the first several times you run Cinebench R15 before thermal soak sets in (meaning it gets capped to PL1), after which it scores about 660 consistently.

I just ran Cinebench R15 about 10 times in a row on my HP 14 and got about 580 consistently (first run was about 600). CPU power held steady at 18W and temperatures hovered around 75 degrees Celsius. That's not throttling--that's working as designed.

Are you really that disappointed that your $280 laptop (with a HUGE RAM disadvantage) only scores within 10-15% of an $1800 Dell?
17 Helpful?
This one has g4 graphics and the 399$ one is a g1 - no upgrade can fix that.
120 $ can buy more than a 256 gb SSD and 4 gigs og RAM.
Also note that this has a better wifi module...
17 Helpful?

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#4
Shipping is included.
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Anyone know if the ram can be upgraded?
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#6
This one or the 15.6" Dell from Best buy for exact same price. Same hard drive size but the dell has a bigger screen but only 720p vs 1080p on the smaller 14" hp. 8 gb ram on dell vs 4 gb ram on Hp. Dell on Best Buy sku 6373813
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Last edited by jt303 November 7, 2019 at 09:28 AM.
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Quote from jt303
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This one or the 15.6" Dell from Best buy for exact same price. Same hard drive and ram but the dell has a bigger screen but only 720p vs 1080p on the smaller 14" hp. Dell on Best Buy sku 6373813
Definitely this lappy, typing on last years Costco deal of the equivalent and I love it.
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Quote from kane057
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Anyone know if the ram can be upgraded?
Last year I bought the Costco deal of the equivalent (more expensive and slower processor) and it was FRONT PAGE the thread is here https://slickdeals.net/f/12270274-costco-members-hp-14-laptop-i3-8130u-4gb-ddr4-128gb-ssd-315?src=fr...

All I can say is BUY! Buy! BUY!

And to answer your question, yes it is awesomely upgrade-able!
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#9
Yeah, this is a solid deal. Add 4GB of ram and you'll meet the needs of nearly every non-power user or gamer, which is going to be the majority of users.

To get a laptop at this size, weight, and power (with backlit keyboard) you'd be looking at double this cost just a year or two ago. Adding 4GB of ram should cost no more than $20.

EDIT: Slightly regretting getting the Acer aspire 5 I got for a gift, I think this one would have been better as it's nearly .7 lbs lighter. (Though it is a 14")
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Last edited by neffernin November 7, 2019 at 09:48 AM.
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Windows 10 S Mode, what is that, a limitation?

Also, I'm curious about i3, anybody know the battery performance, how many hours can it last with average use?
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Last edited by RifVega November 7, 2019 at 09:50 AM.

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#11
i find it to be a travesty that this day and age we still have barrel connectors for power. Other than that one negative... this seems to be a great deal
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#12
Quote from RifVega
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Windows 10 S Mode, what is that, a limitation?
It's basically meaningless, it is a restriction that takes 3 clicks to remove. It limits you to using microsoft apps through the app store instead of normal windows applications.
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Quote from neffernin
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It's basically meaningless, it is a restriction that takes 3 clicks to remove. It limits you to using microsoft apps through the app store instead of normal windows applications.
Great to hear that it's easy to remove, thanks!
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#14
Quote from TomTerrific
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Definitely this lappy, typing on last years Costco deal of the equivalent and I love it.
battery life estimate on yours? with wifi on, 6 tabs open and the occasional video clip here and there.

This one is a 10th gen , so battery life should be 10-15% better right?
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