8-Ounce Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize Lubricant

Tldr; Do NOT use this on water heater anodes.
1. It product is VERY toxic when ingested, take no chances.
2. It is not a protective dielectric grease or designed to be used as a safe conductive grease;the metals in the grease itself can react with the anode/tank and actually cause corrosion problems. Which in turn will act as a barrier to the electron exchange between the anode and the steel of the heater tank. This means that it would limit or prevent the anode from doing it's job. (Unfortunately most conductive grease is also very toxic)

You'll find your anode is in great condition after you have to replace your rusted out water heater. The anode MUST have a good electrical contact to the steel tank to work, and serve it's purpose as a sacrificial anode. 👍

If you want to know more, here is a decent wikipedia on the subject.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode

I would also advise against heavily wrapping the anode threads with Teflon tape for the exact same reason. If you only do about two layers you might be okay, because while screwing the anode into the tank fitting the abrasion of the thread should cut the Teflon enough to allow the edges of the thread to come in contact with a threads of the tank fitting. The surfaces of the threads that contact between the anode and tank will still corrode and bind together, but it will be a much smaller surface area. I don't know how much the reduced contact surface would affect the function of the anode, so it's up to you if you want to take that chance or not.

My advice to you is to do one of two things; number one would be to give the anode a quarter turn every 6 months and then turn it back to break loose any fused surfaces.
Number two would be to look for an anode that has a brass threading or brass plating over the threads. This will dramatically reduce the amount of galvanic corrosion that will occur between the threads of the anode and the steel tank. You should be able to find that feature in any high-end anode, but for a $ price. If you really wanted to, before installation, you could easily heat up the threading of the anode with a torch and then rub a brass wire brush over the surface to give it a light coating a brass over the surface of the threads, basically a do-it-yourself plating for the anode.

I would generally recommend the 6 month turn method, but it just depends on how much you think your time is worth.

$5.97 everyday at menards before rebate

https://www.menards.com/main/tool...207395.htm

this is a must when doing brakes. I also add a bit where the rim meets the rotor/drum so the wheel can be easily removed after some rust