Walmart has
Southwire 25' 14/2 Romex Indoor Electrical Wire for
$10.76. Choose store pickup where stock permits otherwise
shipping is free w/ Walmart+ (
15 day free trial) or on orders of $35+.
Thanks to community member
arl16 for finding this deal.
Note: Availabilty for pickup may vary by location.
Features:- Coated in patented SIMpull Cable Jacket for easier pulling, stripping, and installation
- Primarily used in residential wiring as branch circuits for outlets, switches, and other loads
- Designed for fast pulling, easy stripping, tear resistance, and reduced burn-through
- 14 gauge, 2 conductors with ground, 25' per coil
- UL Listed type NM-B
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These wires are approved per code meaning you can use it legally by which if you know where and how to install it hence by building code.
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For running a new line to a detached garage , there's only an led exterior flood light probably 20watt max a couple of 9 watt bulbs inside
And a Chamberlain door opener
And a GFCI outlet I use for a plug on electric mower or a snow thrower
Would using the 14/2 be ok if I put in a 15a breaker or will it trip?
I would not ever be using the opener and the mower or snow thrower at the same time , probably not the lights either aside from the led bulb I have in the opener .
Also I plan on using 1/2" conduit
Even though you can run UF without it
For some reason 100' of 14/2 UF was cheaper than 100' of 14/2 indoor regular Romex
I think the UF was $55 and the non UF was like $65 at HD
I got the 1/2" x 10 conduit for ,$3.50
At a smaller hardware store much cheaper than Lowes or HD
What are supply house prices right now compared to big box stores ?
I wouldn't go for 15A with all those devices.
Hire a sole proprietor licensed electrician to do this, and offer 3x the quote for you to participate and learn something
Hire a sole proprietor licensed electrician to do this, and offer 3x the quote for you to participate and learn something
There isn't much to learn for most electrical work. There really isn't much to learn for most renovations/modifications people usually want to do honestly. Sure there are codes and people(contractors probably) try to scare the average homeowner into paying for contractors but the information is all online and YouTube is your friend. Black and decker makes a great book for intro electrical work. Honestly it's sad that the average person can't do or is scared to do the simplest things nowadays.
Ive worked with electrical in my home before so i know the basic ideas, my hope is to pull/connect all the wire in the room; then have a licensed electrician come in and run the power from the breaker.
Just need to make sure im allowed to, its my home and i dont want any issues about the work being done when it comes time to sell. Hopefully my citys code enforcer ok's it.
A snowblower however would really load an outlet.
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Ive worked with electrical in my home before so i know the basic ideas, my hope is to pull/connect all the wire in the room; then have a licensed electrician come in and run the power from the breaker.
Just need to make sure im allowed to, its my home and i dont want any issues about the work being done when it comes time to sell. Hopefully my citys code enforcer ok's it.
If it's done to code, it doesn't matter. The cost to hook it up to the breaker should be a fraction of the overall cost.
There really isn't much to learn
Sure there are codes and people ..but the information is all online and YouTube is your friend.
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A lot of houses have 60 to 80ft (or more) runs to the furthest outlet(s) from the breaker box. While most residential outlets are rated at 15amps, you are not going to get the 15amps over any length with 14ga CU wire that will trip the 15amp breaker every time the anticipated full load is approached beyond a few seconds on even a delay breaker. And of course, if you run wires through an attic in hot climates, temperature is also a factor in load carrying capacity. If a run is going to be long, check the tables. A rule of thumb for a few decades is 14ga for most residential lights and 12ga for all 15 amp residential outlets, but there are exceptions.
Personally, I want 20amp outlets in my garage and wired accordingly with multiple circuits back to the breaker box. The same in the kitchen, where many appliances pull 1500 to 2000 watts and the more circuits, the better. In the kitchen, we usually split the top and bottom on a duplex receptacle with separate circuits in case someone plugs a toaster and a say, a coffee maker in at the same time on the same 15amp outlet that will trip the breaker every time.
There is code and there is code and common sense with the included tables. With electric and wire size, one size up is never an 'overkill.' Any overload, for whatever reason, is much better to be in the breaker box or the outlet, than someplace inside walls that can smolder for a long time.
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A lot of houses have 60 to 80ft (or more) runs to the furthest outlet(s) from the breaker box. While most residential outlets are rated at 15amps, you are not going to get the 15amps over any length with 14ga CU wire that will trip the 15amp breaker every time the anticipated full load is approached beyond a few seconds on even a delay breaker. And of course, if you run wires through an attic in hot climates, temperature is also a factor in load carrying capacity. If a run is going to be long, check the tables. A rule of thumb for a few decades is 14ga for most residential lights and 12ga for all 15 amp residential outlets, but there are exceptions.
Personally, I want 20amp outlets in my garage and wired accordingly with multiple circuits back to the breaker box. The same in the kitchen, where many appliances pull 1500 to 2000 watts and the more circuits, the better. In the kitchen, we usually split the top and bottom on a duplex receptacle with separate circuits in case someone plugs a toaster and a say, a coffee maker in at the same time on the same 15amp outlet that will trip the breaker every time.
There is code and there is code and common sense with the included tables. With electric and wire size, one size up is never an 'overkill.' Any overload, for whatever reason, is much better to be in the breaker box or the outlet, than someplace inside walls that can smolder for a long time.
I agree, my statement was more general... I have 20amp 12/2 run to all rooms furthest from our breaker and guest suite upstairs. There will always be exceptions to a rule when it comes to electrical
Advice is supposed to be free, but often enough, it can cost a lot in the long run from even professionals that don't understand the total picture... that often enough is because they were not given the total picture for their professional opinion. As an example, he/she was only going to run a few small hand tools in their garage, but then does not understand why their new planer is blowing the breaker that is somehow the fault of advice taken.
Meanwhile, the majority of people will run 20 amp breakers and 12 gauge wire to 15amp rated outlets... the 20amp outlets are a decent jump in price. Most of the problems I see were because someone tried to cut corners to save a few bucks, or they only used one part of the electrical code that is often only a part of the total picture that is not an exception to the rule for the total picture.
Like most things, minimal now will be double or more of the original cost to do it right in the future that was not really an exception to a rule that we live in a world that is increasingly electrical dependent.... it is probably better to over build most everything for that future.
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