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The link for the 3 pack (HS200P3) is NOT for 3 way switches.
They are single pole only. Without disabling the 3way functionality (the second switch) the 3 pack cannot be used in a 3way switch configuration.
Anyone arguing to the contrary is just plain wrong.
I don't think these are 3 way switches
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"15A switch will burn without 20A fuse ever noticing it. They must break first to protect the rest. If they don't, they are no more a protection. If you want to use 15A switch you have to protect it with at most 15A rated fuse/breaker."
There's probably a reason why you have a 20amp circuit there. If your load is only going to be under 15amp then that's fine, but usually the odds are that there's something with a heavier pull on it, and that could be dangerous.
15A switches have a 20A pass through, they're commonly used on 20A circuits (12g wire,20A breaker).
I had an entire house of 20 amp breakers with 12 gauge wire and 15amp outlets and light switches. That's how it was done. Search Google for 15 amp swith on a 20 amp breaker. Here's a memo from Legrand. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&s...6306037877
If your switch is switching more than it's rating of 15A, that is the risk. Code specifically allows this on branches and it is practiced. You may not want to believe it but it is and you will find nothing other than opinions and misinformation that say otherwise.
I have an Intermatic occupancy switch rated for switching 500 watts incedescent lights. There are no 5 amp breakers and circuits in anyone's house and no way it would be on a 5 amp circuit.
I have no idea what you are saying. Many houses with 20amp circuits/12 gauge wiring are 100% fitted with 15 amp receptacles and 15 amp light switches. That is NORMAL. One way to look at this is breakers/fuses are more or less to protect the wire itself from overheating and being overloaded. Wires travel in the "wild" through open spaces, through wood, around insulation etc except in places where code requires conduit but that has its own rules and again, mainly focused on heat build up in that wire in the conduit. A switch and an outlet is in a "box". Nothing prevents you from taking your 20amp breaker/12 gauge wire circuit and replacing the breaker with a 15amp one if it makes you feel better.
If you plan on using a light switch to control an actual 20amp load then yes, by all means use a 20 amp switch but I bet that light is on a dedicated circuit only for that light or it should be. You pick a switch that will support the load it is switching, not the upstream breaker. This specific switch has a rating:
Sharing my experience identifying the "Neutral" wire. It is not always WHITE.
I open up and check my 3 way switch and saw a WHITE wire before purchasing. I saw the WHITE wire and thinking I am good to go. Oh boy, was I wrong and spend 5 hours correcting my mistake. I did not know that the WHITE wire in my 3 way switch was actually a traveler and there was no NEUTRAL wire at all. To make matter worst, I did not properly label the wires, so I could not put the wire/switch back to the original working (3 way switch) set up. To top it all, I broke my one of my original 3 way switch in the process of trying to restore it back to what it was.
I spend most of the time to realize that my 3 way wires were not connected in conventional colors schemes and that I actually DO NOT have a NEUTRAL wire, then learn how to properly wire my 3 way switch back to original.
After all the chaos, I put this TP link 3 way switch on another single pole switch in less than 5 minutes. Finally, I restore some of my DIY confidence.
so you wanted 3 way but couldnt get it, got frustrated and settled for 1 way satisfied. wonder why that sounds familiar
Does someone have experience with these as well as the feit ones at costco? Any thoughts on which one is better? they are both similar price per switch. here is costco ones- https://www.costco.com/feit-elect...18151.html
The only thing i find after my research is that the wiring for feit ones is a little unique - in that it needs both line and load on the single switch and only 1 traveler - the other switch could be a dumb 1 way switch but needs line too. I guess that's how they achieve the dimming function compared to these kasa ones which maintain the same wiring as dumb 3 way switches for simplicity but sacrificing dimming.
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They are single pole only. Without disabling the 3way functionality (the second switch) the 3 pack cannot be used in a 3way switch configuration.
Anyone arguing to the contrary is just plain wrong.
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There's probably a reason why you have a 20amp circuit there. If your load is only going to be under 15amp then that's fine, but usually the odds are that there's something with a heavier pull on it, and that could be dangerous.
The load on the switch has a max od 15A.
The load on the switch has a max od 15A.
Got kasa documentation on this?
If your switch is switching more than it's rating of 15A, that is the risk. Code specifically allows this on branches and it is practiced. You may not want to believe it but it is and you will find nothing other than opinions and misinformation that say otherwise.
I have an Intermatic occupancy switch rated for switching 500 watts incedescent lights. There are no 5 amp breakers and circuits in anyone's house and no way it would be on a 5 amp circuit.
Each live/neutral is it's on connection to a wire nut (shudder) or a WAGO.
NEC code allows 15A switches and sockets on 20 Amp sockets, other conditions apply.
If you plan on using a light switch to control an actual 20amp load then yes, by all means use a 20 amp switch but I bet that light is on a dedicated circuit only for that light or it should be. You pick a switch that will support the load it is switching, not the upstream breaker. This specific switch has a rating:
Supported Load Types:
100-120V~ 15A max, Res
100-120V~ 5A, Incandescent
100-120V~ 5A, Electronic Fluorescent Ballast
https://m.media-amazon.com/images...dN2ylS
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I open up and check my 3 way switch and saw a WHITE wire before purchasing. I saw the WHITE wire and thinking I am good to go. Oh boy, was I wrong and spend 5 hours correcting my mistake. I did not know that the WHITE wire in my 3 way switch was actually a traveler and there was no NEUTRAL wire at all. To make matter worst, I did not properly label the wires, so I could not put the wire/switch back to the original working (3 way switch) set up. To top it all, I broke my one of my original 3 way switch in the process of trying to restore it back to what it was.
I spend most of the time to realize that my 3 way wires were not connected in conventional colors schemes and that I actually DO NOT have a NEUTRAL wire, then learn how to properly wire my 3 way switch back to original.
After all the chaos, I put this TP link 3 way switch on another single pole switch in less than 5 minutes. Finally, I restore some of my DIY confidence.
https://www.costco.com/feit-elect...18151.h
The only thing i find after my research is that the wiring for feit ones is a little unique - in that it needs both line and load on the single switch and only 1 traveler - the other switch could be a dumb 1 way switch but needs line too. I guess that's how they achieve the dimming function compared to these kasa ones which maintain the same wiring as dumb 3 way switches for simplicity but sacrificing dimming.