https://www.lowes.com/pd/A-O-Smit...1000565579
https://brickseek.com/lowes-inven...1000565579
OVERVIEW
Expansion tank for heater overflow works on heaters up to 80 gallon
Powder coated interior shell protects against corrosion, assures long trouble free life
Exterior powder coat paint for long life and anti-corrosion, certified to automotive ASTM standards
Proper tank sizing is critical to the performance of your water heater
NSF and IAPMO approved
If your home was built in 1985 or is newer, you should use an expansion tank
There is a check valve on your meter closing the system and creating negative thermal expansion impact
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank kivfer
I think these are great idea, I'm definitely going to link for it, at this price 👍👍
Thanks, OP!
I believe the national plunging code was updated in 1985 to require backflow preventers (don't know if that was Canada or US). But even if it was the US, it's only a guide and every local has it's own code. Generally, you only need the tank if you have a backflow preventer, RPZ, or close system. Some PRV's do have bypass's and some don't, but always recommend a tank.
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For 99.9% of the time, this thing is a joke, because no one checks to see if the ballon is in tact.
Less than 10 years. There is a rubber diaphragm inside that eventually gets a hole in it or wears out. If that happens, there is no protection from thermal expansion and an increased pressure head to your system. This increased pressure can easily ruin faucets as they typically can handle only about 80psi. This is how I found out my expansion tank needed replacement after 8 years. A new kitchen faucet started to leak around the base of the handle because it blew out the gaskets that aren't meant to be replaced. There is a pressure valve on top of the tanks that looks like something on a tire. You should NEVER get water out of that. If you do your tank needs to be replaced.