At the time of this posting, Our research indicates that this is $9 lower (18.4% savings) than the next best available prices for similar products with prices starting from $48.99. -SaltyOne
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At the time of this posting, Our research indicates that this is $9 lower (18.4% savings) than the next best available prices for similar products with prices starting from $48.99. -SaltyOne
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
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I'm not sure where they get "three hours of runtime" the included chart says 37 minutes at 100W (which is more than the 600VA?), but if you actually look at the APC site 37 minutes is at 50W, it's actually 15 min at 100W (52/23 min respectively for the 600VA).
It also appears that the battery is not user-replaceable on this model. Not knocking that the price/value isn't pretty good, but things to keep in mind.
I bought a dozen of these for the office. They would simply not work and would break down in less than a year. I ended up having a few PCs get screwed up when we had power outages. (Frequent problem for us due to our neighbors in the office park.)
I had a different model years ago. The problem I had was the only way to turn off the "audible alarm" was to cut power to the APC. So, the thing you bought to prevent you losing your PC power forced you to shut down to kill the alarm. All the while with a 110 decibel klaxon breaking your eardrums. The best part was in Philly, we rarely lose power. When we do it is usually back on in seconds lately, minutes years ago. So the APC should have allowed you to completely ignore it. The worst though was the alarm would go off even if you did not lose power but had a voltage variation in the line. That happens a LOT more often. I ended up just throwing the thing out in frustration. Not sure if any of the newer models have any kind of controls for the audible alarm.
The alarm is to alert you to an issue so you can save your work and shut down the computer. If you want to power your computer for a longer time through a black out you would be looking at a different solution, like a whole home battery backup. Based on the variations you reported there is something going on with your electrical system that needs to be addressed. I have run UPS units in older homes with old cloth wiring and they don't have that issue, so seems like it is bad whatever it is. I doubt it was really 110DB since it's as loud as a concert and close to a plane taking off. You should be able to hear it in the middle of the night, but during the day several rooms away I could see someone barely hearing it while doing the dishes or something.
I have 8 surge protectors from 4 brands including three of these. Lost power for two seconds in a storm and these all died while the other three brands and models had no issue.
This was maybe a month ago.
Absolute garbage, and a big enough sample size to know.
I have over the years probably 20 of UPS from APC, never have any issues. Batteries usually last about 3 years which I am ok with. If they failed before the 3 years, APC will send new ones.
I'm not sure where they get "three hours of runtime" the included chart says 37 minutes at 100W (which is more than the 600VA?), but if you actually look at the APC site 37 minutes is at 50W, it's actually 15 min at 100W (52/23 min respectively for the 600VA).
It also appears that the battery is not user-replaceable on this model. Not knocking that the price/value isn't pretty good, but things to keep in mind.
Quote
from delton1
:
Click on the link below to access the interactive Runtime Chart from APC. If you hover your mouse along the GREEN line, a pop-up window will tell you the runtime(s) at a specific load(s).
Regarding Battery Replacement, the battery can be replaced two ways.1) Sending the unit back to a Factory Authorized Service Center (to the best of my knowledge, APC no longer provides this type of service to Consumer Grade UPS devices); or 2) DIY, IF AND ONLY IF, you are not risk averse and are knowledgeable about working around/with electronic circuitry. Why? This model was designed to be disposable and not serviceable by consumers. When you open the case, you are exposed to hazardous circuitry/components and introducing dangerous errors (e.g. getting the battery polarity wrong). There are a couple of YouTube videos about swapping out the batteries.
We replace batteries on these regularly as well as on APC. Triplite, and Cyberpower units.
These are no more difficult or dangerous (LOL seriously?) than any other UPS. i.e. you can always plug in the battery backwards if you want to. Yeah, you will see a green circuit board near the battery and no you shouldn't work on these plugged in or poking at the electronics. But, they are no more complex or risky.
HOWEVER these have a slightly non-standard lead acid battery (I think they were 12V 3.5 4 or 5AH) which will run about $30-$40 vs the standard 12V 7AH batteries that most 1000VAish units take which run $20 ea (usually needing a pair of them) so take that for what it's worth.
The ones we do have deployed seem to be quite reliable as compared to the tower units we have which seem to have a 10-20% / yr failure rate (fail not battery going bad).
Last edited by gallymimus July 29, 2021 at 12:50 PM.
The alarm is to alert you to an issue so you can save your work and shut down the computer. If you want to power your computer for a longer time through a black out you would be looking at a different solution, like a whole home battery backup. Based on the variations you reported there is something going on with your electrical system that needs to be addressed. I have run UPS units in older homes with old cloth wiring and they don't have that issue, so seems like it is bad whatever it is. I doubt it was really 110DB since it's as loud as a concert and close to a plane taking off. You should be able to hear it in the middle of the night, but during the day several rooms away I could see someone barely hearing it while doing the dishes or something.
I get that the alarm is to alert me there is a problem. But if the problem was a surge and the surge was successfully stopped, why do I have to shut my system down? Why isn't there an option to reset the UPS and kill the alarm without having to unplug it? The UPS I had should have been able to power my system for at least thirty minutes. Nearly every power outage I experienced was resolved much faster.
And I do not actually know the alarm's decibel rating, only that it hurt my ears the entire time I was waiting for my system to shut down.
Last edited by ponagathos July 29, 2021 at 12:58 PM.
Yeah, I was thinking about getting something like this since my old big UPS bit the dust and I only really used it to keep the internet running during the rare power outage in my area. Since removing the UPS my electricity bill has gone done a bit since the trickle charge maintaining it is gone. I ended up just opting for this
You can probably get it cheaper once it shows up on Direct Tools Outlet or goes clearance at Home Depot, but if you are not in the Ryobi tool system you can add two 4AH batteries and charger for a $100 total https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI.../315424283
It looks like that deal sold out online, but if you find a store with the inverter and batteries it will still work until August 1st.
Regardless I think the inverter with Lithium tool batteries is the way to go for your modem/router. Battery is easily replaceable, they don't lose their charge as quickly over long periods of time, and that saves you some $ on your energy bill. You can also use the batteries in your tools. If your internet connection is mission critical the UPS is better, but that short runtime is going to make you need to find a solution in an hour or so anyway when it dies not to mention the higher up front cost for each minute of power and the constant draw added to your meter.
Since lithium batteries age pretty quickly if they are kept fully charged, I'm wondering about the implementation for UPS units. Do they keep the batteries only partially charged over the long term?
I bought a dozen of these for the office. They would simply not work and would break down in less than a year. I ended up having a few PCs get screwed up when we had power outages. (Frequent problem for us due to our neighbors in the office park.)
I'd recommend ONLY using pure sine wave UPS units for backup power on a computer/other sophisticated circuit board based electronics
Would something like this be overkill for a big TV, nvidia shield pro, and sound bar? For something like that should I just use a power strip surge protector?
I get that the alarm is to alert me there is a problem. But if the problem was a surge and the surge was successfully stopped, why do I have to shut my system down? Why isn't there an option to reset the UPS and kill the alarm without having to unplug it? The UPS I had should have been able to power my system for at least thirty minutes. Nearly every power outage I experienced was resolved much faster.
And I do not actually know the alarm's decibel rating, only that it hurt my ears the entire time I was waiting for my system to shut down.
Oh I get what you are saying now. Yeah that's nuts. I really think the one I had was a cyberpower rebranded one. The alarm was no wear near hurting your ears even right next to it and the alarm would stop once the electricity was back. No need to unplug to stop it, that sounds super annoying and a terrible design. Funny since I thought APC was top dog for UPS's.
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Since lithium batteries age pretty quickly if they are kept fully charged, I'm wondering about the implementation for UPS units. Do they keep the batteries only partially charged over the long term?
They should. Based on my research over the years the manufacturers have gotten to the point they don't let your batteries actually get fully charged or depleted to avoid catastrophic failure or reduced life span due to user neglect. Even if some mfg wanted the batteries to die quickly, for like planned obsolescence, they would need to manufacture the cells themselves or spec it from china to remove that basic protection. In that case people would avoid them like the plague for their 90's & 00's NiCad type battery tech. Competition has helped a ton with this.
Tesla just announced they plan to remove the lead acid batteries from their cars. Your standard lead acid battery is only going to last 5 years before you should replace it. I think lithium ion needs to go a long way and prove itself before I feel I can keep an electric car for 20 years, but they have come a very long way.
As an aside I thought these were the APC units designed for networking equipment. Those use lithium ion and I was actually thinking of getting one for the longest time, but I refer back to my last post on why I decided not to. If you need these to be a backup for your computer I would really double check your specs. The wattage is under 300. Granted tech has come a long way at being power efficient, but I doubt any PC ships with a smaller power supply then 300 watts unless it's a mini or small form factor home theater type pc. Even then this seems to be the unit to avoid.
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It also appears that the battery is not user-replaceable on this model. Not knocking that the price/value isn't pretty good, but things to keep in mind.
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This was maybe a month ago.
Absolute garbage, and a big enough sample size to know.
It also appears that the battery is not user-replaceable on this model. Not knocking that the price/value isn't pretty good, but things to keep in mind.
https://www.apc.com/products/runt...Size=large [apc.com]
Regarding Battery Replacement, the battery can be replaced two ways.1) Sending the unit back to a Factory Authorized Service Center (to the best of my knowledge, APC no longer provides this type of service to Consumer Grade UPS devices); or 2) DIY, IF AND ONLY IF, you are not risk averse and are knowledgeable about working around/with electronic circuitry. Why? This model was designed to be disposable and not serviceable by consumers. When you open the case, you are exposed to hazardous circuitry/components and introducing dangerous errors (e.g. getting the battery polarity wrong). There are a couple of YouTube videos about swapping out the batteries.
These are no more difficult or dangerous (LOL seriously?) than any other UPS. i.e. you can always plug in the battery backwards if you want to. Yeah, you will see a green circuit board near the battery and no you shouldn't work on these plugged in or poking at the electronics. But, they are no more complex or risky.
HOWEVER these have a slightly non-standard lead acid battery (I think they were 12V 3.5 4 or 5AH) which will run about $30-$40 vs the standard 12V 7AH batteries that most 1000VAish units take which run $20 ea (usually needing a pair of them) so take that for what it's worth.
The ones we do have deployed seem to be quite reliable as compared to the tower units we have which seem to have a 10-20% / yr failure rate (fail not battery going bad).
And I do not actually know the alarm's decibel rating, only that it hurt my ears the entire time I was waiting for my system to shut down.
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https://www.homedepot.c
You can probably get it cheaper once it shows up on Direct Tools Outlet or goes clearance at Home Depot, but if you are not in the Ryobi tool system you can add two 4AH batteries and charger for a $100 total https://www.homedepot.c
It looks like that deal sold out online, but if you find a store with the inverter and batteries it will still work until August 1st.
Regardless I think the inverter with Lithium tool batteries is the way to go for your modem/router. Battery is easily replaceable, they don't lose their charge as quickly over long periods of time, and that saves you some $ on your energy bill. You can also use the batteries in your tools. If your internet connection is mission critical the UPS is better, but that short runtime is going to make you need to find a solution in an hour or so anyway when it dies not to mention the higher up front cost for each minute of power and the constant draw added to your meter.
And I do not actually know the alarm's decibel rating, only that it hurt my ears the entire time I was waiting for my system to shut down.
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Tesla just announced they plan to remove the lead acid batteries from their cars. Your standard lead acid battery is only going to last 5 years before you should replace it. I think lithium ion needs to go a long way and prove itself before I feel I can keep an electric car for 20 years, but they have come a very long way.
As an aside I thought these were the APC units designed for networking equipment. Those use lithium ion and I was actually thinking of getting one for the longest time, but I refer back to my last post on why I decided not to. If you need these to be a backup for your computer I would really double check your specs. The wattage is under 300. Granted tech has come a long way at being power efficient, but I doubt any PC ships with a smaller power supply then 300 watts unless it's a mini or small form factor home theater type pc. Even then this seems to be the unit to avoid.
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