expiredCashCroc posted Aug 02, 2021 04:01 PM
Item 1 of 5
Item 1 of 5
expiredCashCroc posted Aug 02, 2021 04:01 PM
13-Piece Milwaukee Hole Dozer General Purpose Bi-Metal Hole Saw Set
+ Free Shipping$40
$85
52% offHome Depot
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In this case, HF is coming in higher at $58 and only going up to 2 1/2".(https://www.harborfreig
Carbide will dominate bi-metal. Just depends on purpose.
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Initially I used the door hole saw from Harbor Freight but didn't work at all for hardwood door.
FYI, the 1" hole saw from this milwaukee also having a tough time drilling the door socket hole but still much better than the Harbor Freight one. Highly recommend this hole saw set.
You don't need a kit, you need one bit that depends on whether traditional stucco that uses cement, or synthetic that is fiberglass and polymer. The OP type hole saw is fine for synthetic.
For just one hole in traditional with wood structure behind, I would try any cheap hole saw bit like the OP, but a lot better to use a carbide masonry bit that is going to be more expensive. I would not use a serious hammer drill mode for fear of cracking adjacent material, so go slow and blow out the hole on a regular basis. Soon enough, you will be through the thin stucco cement part and encounter the chicken wire, then the substrate that is hopefully wood.
If brick or masonry behind the stucco, definitely use a solid masonry bit that is long enough and not a hole saw. Once through the stucco and into brick or masonry, switch over to hammer mode if available, or go slow and clear the hole often to save the bit tip.
PS: Lowes had a clearance on some larger masonry bits that were a deal.
You don't need a kit, you need one bit that depends on whether traditional stucco that uses cement, or synthetic that is fiberglass and polymer. The OP type hole saw is fine for synthetic.
For just one hole in traditional with wood structure behind, I would try any cheap hole saw bit like the OP, but a lot better to use a carbide masonry bit that is going to be more expensive. I would not use a serious hammer drill mode for fear of cracking adjacent material, so go slow and blow out the hole on a regular basis. Soon enough, you will be through the thin stucco cement part and encounter the chicken wire, then the substrate that is hopefully wood.
If brick or masonry behind the stucco, definitely use a solid masonry bit that is long enough and not a hole saw. Once through the stucco and into brick or masonry, switch over to hammer mode if available, or go slow and clear the hole often to save the bit tip.
PS: Lowes had a clearance on some larger masonry bits that were a deal.
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Yes, the core bit is not much help with brick/masonry behind, but is easier on the stucco that when old, can be fragile. We do a lot of work in the SW that has a lot of stucco and for small holes, use one size up for the core hole through stucco and then switch to a regular SDS plus masonry bit.
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