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Creality 3D Ender-3 DIY Printer (Black)
$136
$272
50% off
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Save Money via Walmart has Creality 3D Ender-3 DIY Printer (Black) on sale/reduced price for $135.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Staff Member LovelyCheetah for finding this deal
Note, item will be sold by Save Money and fulfilled by Walmart
About the Product
Thanks to Staff Member LovelyCheetah for finding this deal
Note, item will be sold by Save Money and fulfilled by Walmart
About the Product
- High 3D printer w/ ±0.1mm high printing accuracy
- 220/250mm large printing size
- MK-8 extruder
- Hotbed can reach 110℃ in about 5 minutes (for quick heating/printing)
- Adopts V-Slot linter bearing sy
- Compatible w/ various 1.75mm printing filaments like PLA, ABS, TPU
Editor's Notes
Written by Discombobulated | Staff- Price Research: Purchase this device today and save $135.99 Off (50% Savings) from the original list price of $271.98. This is a good price if you're looking for a reliable 3D printer in the market
- Wide application; can be used for product structure design, toy modeling, architectural design, parts manufacturing and more
- Offer valid while promotion/supplies last
- Please refer to the forum thread for additional details - Discombobulated
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About the Poster
Deal Details
Community Notes
About the Poster
Save Money via Walmart has Creality 3D Ender-3 DIY Printer (Black) on sale/reduced price for $135.99. Shipping is free.
Thanks to Staff Member LovelyCheetah for finding this deal
Note, item will be sold by Save Money and fulfilled by Walmart
About the Product
Thanks to Staff Member LovelyCheetah for finding this deal
Note, item will be sold by Save Money and fulfilled by Walmart
About the Product
- High 3D printer w/ ±0.1mm high printing accuracy
- 220/250mm large printing size
- MK-8 extruder
- Hotbed can reach 110℃ in about 5 minutes (for quick heating/printing)
- Adopts V-Slot linter bearing sy
- Compatible w/ various 1.75mm printing filaments like PLA, ABS, TPU
Editor's Notes
Written by Discombobulated | Staff- Price Research: Purchase this device today and save $135.99 Off (50% Savings) from the original list price of $271.98. This is a good price if you're looking for a reliable 3D printer in the market
- Wide application; can be used for product structure design, toy modeling, architectural design, parts manufacturing and more
- Offer valid while promotion/supplies last
- Please refer to the forum thread for additional details - Discombobulated
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Top Comments
If you plan on buying any of it's version, expect to spend time to make it work. It is after all, a new hobby you picked. This ain't your Plug and Play toy ... no no no...
I'm stuck between this or $50 more for a pro, and add the glass bed.
Then I just have to learn how to design and program (I have ZERO knowledge to that end)
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If you plan on buying any of it's version, expect to spend time to make it work. It is after all, a new hobby you picked. This ain't your Plug and Play toy ... no no no...
If you plan on buying any of it's version, expect to spend time to make it work. It is after all, a new hobby you picked. This ain't your Plug and Play toy ... no no no...
2- pro is 189 on a reputable website and 3 v2 is 250+, which is also more than $100 higher than the regular v3 :shrug:
By they way, I printed one of these on this level machine and it did great. Took me 1.5years but pretty awesome project...
Inmoov.fr
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Having said that, I believe there are a few things to consider right away when considering an Ender 3:
- There is going to be time and effort into getting the printer dialed in and to a "set it and forget it" level. Expect to spend many hours researching common 3D printing issues (stringing, poor extrusion, bed adhesion, bed leveling, etc.). This is all good info to know if you plan on keeping with the hobby, but if you just want to immediately start making flawless prints out the box, look elsewhere.
- Some parts likely need addressed right away. One of which (if they haven't fixed it on later models) was the XT60 power connector between the PSU and the mainboard. The other was the PTFE couplings. The only other thing I know to fix right away is to ensure that thermal runaway protection is enabled on your firmware. Some of these things are cheap and easy to fix and the others are a bit more involved. Again, they may have resolved some or all of these issues since my machine was made.
- Some other parts you'll probably want to replace later on, but aren't critical right away. Firmer bed springs (if you don't go the ABL route), PTFE tubing upgrade, silent main board, glass bed, aluminum/dual gear/direct drive extruder, etc. aren't necessary when you're starting out but are nice to have later once you've had some time with the printer.
- You can print an amazing number of upgraded parts yourself. Once you get your printer sorted out and working properly, check Thingiverse for read-to-download parts and fixes for your printer. Upgrading your printer is half the fun and helps you to learn a lot about it in the process.
- Filaments can be confusing when you start out, so try and just get a roll or two of good quality PLA to start with. The Ender will come with a tiny sample of PLA that's not even enough to complete the test print on the SD card. I personally haven't dealt with any poor quality PLA yet and I've bought plenty of sub-$10 filament before. Learn the machine and get your print settings dialed in on PLA before venturing into PETG, ABS, or TPU. All of those require totally different print settings from PLA and trying to work that out while you're still learning is frustrating.
- Start off by printing right off the SD card and not Octoprint. I went right into setting up Octoprint after getting the printer and wasted weeks if not months tracking down poor print quality issues. Long story short, the USB connection on the stock Ender 3 board is not able to keep up with the instructions from the RasPi and will introduce flaws on your prints. Some people don't seem to have this problem, but I did and it was terrible starting out.
I've got countless hours into my Ender 3 now and have upgraded many items along the way (BLTouch, SKR Mini E3 main board, Petsfang cooling ducts, aluminum extruder, glass bed, plus a ton of printed parts). It's at the point now that I can just slice a STL and send it right over and end up with a good quality print 99% of the time. I'm pleased with how everything is set up now, but again, this took a very long time. Think of 3D printing as more of a hobby and less of a way to press a button and print off an object. We're likely moving toward that point in the future of being able to download a design and seamlessly print it off, but we're not there yet. Even if we were, you'd expect to pay a lot more than $135.Worst case, if you end up not liking the printer, you can likely sell it off for most of what you paid for it if you haven't sunk a lot of money into it by then. Or gift it to someone else who may be interested and get them involved in the hobby.
Having said that, I believe there are a few things to consider right away when considering an Ender 3:
- There is going to be time and effort into getting the printer dialed in and to a "set it and forget it" level. Expect to spend many hours researching common 3D printing issues (stringing, poor extrusion, bed adhesion, bed leveling, etc.). This is all good info to know if you plan on keeping with the hobby, but if you just want to immediately start making flawless prints out the box, look elsewhere.
- Some parts likely need addressed right away. One of which (if they haven't fixed it on later models) was the XT60 power connector between the PSU and the mainboard. The other was the PTFE couplings. The only other thing I know to fix right away is to ensure that thermal runaway protection is enabled on your firmware. Some of these things are cheap and easy to fix and the others are a bit more involved. Again, they may have resolved some or all of these issues since my machine was made.
- Some other parts you'll probably want to replace later on, but aren't critical right away. Firmer bed springs (if you don't go the ABL route), PTFE tubing upgrade, silent main board, glass bed, aluminum/dual gear/direct drive extruder, etc. aren't necessary when you're starting out but are nice to have later once you've had some time with the printer.
- You can print an amazing number of upgraded parts yourself. Once you get your printer sorted out and working properly, check Thingiverse for read-to-download parts and fixes for your printer. Upgrading your printer is half the fun and helps you to learn a lot about it in the process.
- Filaments can be confusing when you start out, so try and just get a roll or two of good quality PLA to start with. The Ender will come with a tiny sample of PLA that's not even enough to complete the test print on the SD card. I personally haven't dealt with any poor quality PLA yet and I've bought plenty of sub-$10 filament before. Learn the machine and get your print settings dialed in on PLA before venturing into PETG, ABS, or TPU. All of those require totally different print settings from PLA and trying to work that out while you're still learning is frustrating.
- Start off by printing right off the SD card and not Octoprint. I went right into setting up Octoprint after getting the printer and wasted weeks if not months tracking down poor print quality issues. Long story short, the USB connection on the stock Ender 3 board is not able to keep up with the instructions from the RasPi and will introduce flaws on your prints. Some people don't seem to have this problem, but I did and it was terrible starting out.
I've got countless hours into my Ender 3 now and have upgraded many items along the way (BLTouch, SKR Mini E3 main board, Petsfang cooling ducts, aluminum extruder, glass bed, plus a ton of printed parts). It's at the point now that I can just slice a STL and send it right over and end up with a good quality print 99% of the time. I'm pleased with how everything is set up now, but again, this took a very long time. Think of 3D printing as more of a hobby and less of a way to press a button and print off an object. We're likely moving toward that point in the future of being able to download a design and seamlessly print it off, but we're not there yet. Even if we were, you'd expect to pay a lot more than $135.Worst case, if you end up not liking the printer, you can likely sell it off for most of what you paid for it if you haven't sunk a lot of money into it by then. Or gift it to someone else who may be interested and get them involved in the hobby.
You left out the part where you want to toss the machine out the door and punch the wall sometime. Or how your wife yells at you cause you spend more time with tuning your printer.
Having said that...
These printers - the Ender, the A10, Monoprice - they're all great hobbiest printers - as long as your hobby is 3D Printers. If, otoh, your hobby is something else and you want a 3D printer to supplement your workshop, you do NOT want this - or any of its ilk - as your first printer*. For $500-600 you can buy a printer that will perform with far less troubleshooting and tuning right out of the box and allow you to create things rather than tinker and upgrade your printer. It still will not be inkjet-simple, but it will be far closer.
*Once you are comfortable with printing and know the limitations, and need more print capacity within the capability of these printers - sure, then at least you know what you are up against.
These printers - the Ender, the A10, Monoprice - they're all great hobbiest printers - as long as your hobby is 3D Printers. If, otoh, your hobby is something else and you want a 3D printer to supplement your workshop, you do NOT want this - or any of its ilk - as your first printer*. For $500-600 you can buy a printer that will perform with far less troubleshooting and tuning right out of the box and allow you to create things rather than tinker and upgrade your printer. It still will not be inkjet-simple, but it will be far closer.
*Once you are comfortable with printing and know the limitations, and need more print capacity within the capability of these printers - sure, then at least you know what you are up against.
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No it's not a $135 3D printer but after reading up on it when the Creality CR-10S pro was posted at $302, I think it's a good pick.
I didn't decide to buy one even though I'm still thinking about it. I decided to build a Voron 2.4 350mm and ordered the kit.
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