Mobil Full Synthetic High Mileage 5W-20 motor oil is designed for vehicles with over 75,000 miles, upgrading from a conventional or synthetic blend, or requiring full synthetic motor oil
Provides guaranteed protection lasting 1.5X longer than our conventional and synthetic blend oils, up to 7,500 miles between oil changes*
Helps to prevent oil leaks, sludge, and deposit formation, to help reduce engine wear, and has a balanced additive system formulation and extra seal conditioner
Provides excellent resistance to oil breakdown, for proven long-lasting protection, and maintains oil viscosity at high operating temperatures
Recommended for all types of gasoline-powered vehicles, including those with turbo charged engines, and meets API SN Plus resource-conserving
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Mobil Full Synthetic High Mileage 5W-20 motor oil is designed for vehicles with over 75,000 miles, upgrading from a conventional or synthetic blend, or requiring full synthetic motor oil
Provides guaranteed protection lasting 1.5X longer than our conventional and synthetic blend oils, up to 7,500 miles between oil changes*
Helps to prevent oil leaks, sludge, and deposit formation, to help reduce engine wear, and has a balanced additive system formulation and extra seal conditioner
Provides excellent resistance to oil breakdown, for proven long-lasting protection, and maintains oil viscosity at high operating temperatures
Recommended for all types of gasoline-powered vehicles, including those with turbo charged engines, and meets API SN Plus resource-conserving
Just the opposite. The Pegasus was the original logo/company. Most people are just used to seeing the premium brand mobil 1. Yes mobil 1 syn is better than mobil syn, i didnt even know mobil had a syn...
I disagree, any synthetic oil holds up just fine based on my experience across multiple cars. They're all "good enough" at this point for factory applications, regardless of brand.
Off brand tires as well as perfectly usable. You may compromise in one or more areas such as tread life, grip, efficiency, noise, etc. But doesn't mean you shouldn't use them. You just have to set your expectations accordingly and not exceed their limit
I don't want to ever be "good enough" when needing to brake in the rain or need to replace an engine because good enough was what was recommended.
I don't want to ever be "good enough" when needing to brake in the rain or need to replace an engine because good enough was what was recommended.
Good luck trying to prove your engine failure was indeed oil related, even if it did occur. Change it regularly and keep it filled is the most important thing.
On the subject of braking if you need the performance difference between top and bottom rung tires, I would evaluate driving style first. Reaction time, and defensive driving will amount to much more than the best equipment. But I digress, do whatever you're comfortable with...
Hey, everybody. This isn't Mobil 1. It's regular Mobil... a different product line.
Full synthetic oil are better than conventional oil. Mobil brand are better than other unbranded product. So I am in for 8. There are no point to waste money because I always change oil every 5000 mile anyway
I'm sorry I have a tuned supercharged engine that I redline on almost a daily basis. I need mobil 1 every 5k miles and a wix filter so my motor lasts. To each his own but to me mobil 1 has given me proven reliability.
Thanks OP!
I just placed a pickup order for 4 x gallons.
I work in the auto industry and own sports cars where I can recommend the following:
- Any full synthetic brand is fine
- Buy your appropriate mfc. engine weight
- Filter change is more important as it won't outlast oil breakdown
- Change regularly 4-5k miles
Personally I don't trust anyone to wrench on my car, especially low skilled people at those oil change shops.
Sure it's convenient, but at least I know I'm taking care of my cars!
I understand the 4-5k miles but during this pandemic I think I've driven 2k miles in the last year on my vehicle. At this rate it will be at least another year before I hit 4k miles on this oil. Should I change the oil since it's a year old or only base it on miles?
I understand the 4-5k miles but during this pandemic I think I've driven 2k miles in the last year on my vehicle. At this rate it will be at least another year before I hit 4k miles on this oil. Should I change the oil since it's a year old or only base it on miles?
Two main things deteriorate oil-- use (duh) and "cycling." For the latter, running the engine creates heat. When shut off, the heat in the crankcase condenses. Condensation breaks down oil. So... depending on whether those 2k miles are short runs, a year might be a reallllllly long time.
* simplified for the SD audience
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I understand the 4-5k miles but during this pandemic I think I've driven 2k miles in the last year on my vehicle. At this rate it will be at least another year before I hit 4k miles on this oil. Should I change the oil since it's a year old or only base it on miles?
Most manufacturers suggest mileage or 1 year, which ever is earlier.
just out of curiosity,,,what is the shelf life of this?
Basically forever as long as the container stays sealed. Feel free to hoard as much as you want.
Blackstone Labs, a company that tests oil, published a series of newsletters nearly a decade ago where they bought and tested various kinds of ancient motor oil still sealed in their original containers on eBay. Some of it was from as far back as the 1930s. They analyzed each oil and found no signs of degradation. The employee who wrote the articles even ran one of the antique oils in his personal vehicle for 1,800 miles. He analyzed the oil for wear metals after using it, and found it performed about as well as modern oil. If anything, I expect modern synthetic oil to be more stable than antique conventional oil.
The newsletters are linked below in case anyone is interested.
I understand the 4-5k miles but during this pandemic I think I've driven 2k miles in the last year on my vehicle. At this rate it will be at least another year before I hit 4k miles on this oil. Should I change the oil since it's a year old or only base it on miles?
I changed at one year even with only a thousand miles per year just to meet the warranty requirement. I work from home and with the pandemic, just didn't have much need to drive.
What's the start up cost to do oil changes yourself?
Depends. You can probably get under an SUV to take off the oil drain plug and slide a pan underneath without lifting it up. You would need to lift a car. Using just the scissor or bottle jack in your trunk, 2-4 jack stands at $16 a piece from Walmart, an oil drain pan, funnel, and a wrench, your total would be about 35-50 for start up cost. But the benefit is that you could get away with doing full synthetic oil changes for 15-20 bucks when they would usually cost 75-100. And most importantly, frugal doesn't have to mean unsafe. Always follow best practices.
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There is no reason to waste money on Mobil 1. Unless it's on sale for cheap.
Just get any Full Synthetic oil brand that match with your car specs.
Any 😂 You're hilarious. That is not true. I can attest to you a Petroleum Engineer all Full-Synthetic motor oils are not the same due to different and patented formulas. Just as no name brand (Chevron/ Texaco, She'll, Phillips 66/76/Conoco,Sinclair or ExxonMobil) brands of gas's are the same. Every oil company has different blends of oil, whereas Castol GTX Full-Synthy is not the same as Valvine or Havoline or even Mobil 1. 😊
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But Mobil 1 is cheaper and better with rebate.
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Off brand tires as well as perfectly usable. You may compromise in one or more areas such as tread life, grip, efficiency, noise, etc. But doesn't mean you shouldn't use them. You just have to set your expectations accordingly and not exceed their limit
On the subject of braking if you need the performance difference between top and bottom rung tires, I would evaluate driving style first. Reaction time, and defensive driving will amount to much more than the best equipment. But I digress, do whatever you're comfortable with...
I just placed a pickup order for 4 x gallons.
I work in the auto industry and own sports cars where I can recommend the following:
- Any full synthetic brand is fine
- Buy your appropriate mfc. engine weight
- Filter change is more important as it won't outlast oil breakdown
- Change regularly 4-5k miles
Personally I don't trust anyone to wrench on my car, especially low skilled people at those oil change shops.
Sure it's convenient, but at least I know I'm taking care of my cars!
* simplified for the SD audience
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Blackstone Labs, a company that tests oil, published a series of newsletters nearly a decade ago where they bought and tested various kinds of ancient motor oil still sealed in their original containers on eBay. Some of it was from as far back as the 1930s. They analyzed each oil and found no signs of degradation. The employee who wrote the articles even ran one of the antique oils in his personal vehicle for 1,800 miles. He analyzed the oil for wear metals after using it, and found it performed about as well as modern oil. If anything, I expect modern synthetic oil to be more stable than antique conventional oil.
The newsletters are linked below in case anyone is interested.
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/w...Part-1.pdf
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/w...Part-2.pdf
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/w...Part-3.pdf
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/w...riment.pdf
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Just get any Full Synthetic oil brand that match with your car specs.
Join The Conversation
Share your experience with the Slickdeals community
Share information with the community. Please follow our Community Guidelines and be kind!