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Husky 1/2" Drive 24" Ratcheting Breaker Bar Expired

$25
$39.97
+ Free Curbside Pickup
+37 Deal Score
25,319 Views
Home Depot has Husky 1/2" Drive 24" Ratcheting Breaker Bar on sale for $24.97. Select free curbside pickup where available.

Thanks to community member tunabreath for posting this deal.

Note: Availability for curbside pickup may vary.

About this product:
  • Break free stubborn or stuck fasteners with high torque 36-tooth design
  • 3-position ratcheting head left, right and locked
  • Chamfered lead-ins help to provide fast and easy placement onto sockets
  • Knurled handle grip provides a non-slip grip
  • 24 in. overall length
  • Meets or exceeds ANSI standards
  • Flex-head rotates 180° for access
  • Call for customer service and support
  • Backed by a lifetime warranty, if your Husky product ever fails, bring it back and we will replace it for free. click here for details.
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Edited October 25, 2021 at 10:22 PM by
Home Depot has Husky 1/2 in. Drive 24 in. Ratcheting Breaker Bar for $24.97. Shipping is free. QA Note: OOS for shipping, so store pickup or in store only now

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-i.../315742424
  • Breaker bar with 3-position ratcheting head (left, right, locked)
  • Increased access with 180 degree swivel from flex-head
  • Lifetime Warranty with no questions, no receipt required.
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You only need to turn a breaker bar 1/4 to 1/2 turn to break a bolt or nut free. After that, you use either a power tool or ratchet the rest of the way. To me, the ratcheting function is not needed and looks like it may be the weak point of the tool. I would prefer a breaker bar with as few moving parts as possible, so you could apply maximum torque to what you are removing. If you are pulling as hard as you can and the ratcheting mechanism fails, you may get injured.
·
Extremely rusted/corroded nuts where the threads are exposed (think U-bolts) can fight the whole way they are removed.
·
That's my understanding. For the lug nuts when changing tires. I only ever need it when those jerks at the shop overtighten them.
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> bubble2 453 Posts
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homersapien
10-26-2021 at 07:29 AM.
10-26-2021 at 07:29 AM.
Quote from brian17834 :
You only need to turn a breaker bar 1/4 to 1/2 turn to break a bolt or nut free. After that, you use either a power tool or ratchet the rest of the way. To me, the ratcheting function is not needed and looks like it may be the weak point of the tool. I would prefer a breaker bar with as few moving parts as possible, so you could apply maximum torque to what you are removing. If you are pulling as hard as you can and the ratcheting mechanism fails, you may get injured.
The issue isn't "turning" the bar, but rather being able to get it into just the right position to get as much turn as possible. I'm a typical home mechanic - e.g. brakes, fluids, etc. - and a ratcheting breaker bar is extremely handy. I use an old 1/2" Harbor Freight torque wrench and that's been plenty strong to break free even the most stubborn suspension bolts.
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> bubble2 10,151 Posts
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J03
10-26-2021 at 07:42 AM.
10-26-2021 at 07:42 AM.
I needed a breaker bar but the ratcheting feature seems unnecessary. I guess I should just grab one at HF next time I'm driving by.
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LeasedJet
10-26-2021 at 08:12 AM.
10-26-2021 at 08:12 AM.
Quote from guest2011 :
what's it good for, wheels? is it still needed if i have an impact wrench which handles anything?
Quote from tunabreath :
If you have an impact wrench then it's not necessary. Situation where this could be beneficial would be extremely torqued bolts that have limited access, possibly a crank pulley bolt on a RWD that is accessed from under hood.
Quote from FawkinChit2 :
Just buy an impact driver

It's good practice to always break torque manually with a breaker, those extra 10 seconds of effort buys you a lot of safety and gives you a good feel for the thread condition too.
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Chef_Aspen
10-26-2021 at 08:47 AM.
10-26-2021 at 08:47 AM.
Quote from brian17834 :
You only need to turn a breaker bar 1/4 to 1/2 turn to break a bolt or nut free. After that, you use either a power tool or ratchet the rest of the way. To me, the ratcheting function is not needed and looks like it may be the weak point of the tool. I would prefer a breaker bar with as few moving parts as possible, so you could apply maximum torque to what you are removing. If you are pulling as hard as you can and the ratcheting mechanism fails, you may get injured.

My only reason for arguing this point is that sometimes you get in a tight spot and you are only able to have a non-ratcheting head 4 possible positions. You can turn the head of a ratcheting breaker bar to get right in the "sweet spot"
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PowerfulSardine544
10-26-2021 at 09:51 AM.
10-26-2021 at 09:51 AM.
Quote from judemiller405 :
My only reason for arguing this point is that sometimes you get in a tight spot and you are only able to have a non-ratcheting head 4 possible positions. You can turn the head of a ratcheting breaker bar to get right in the "sweet spot"
just did a brake job with very limited space for my beaker bar -impact was not even close to being able to fit, it got the job done, but would have been nice to have the ratchet feature. Nothing wrong with having one of each.
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> bubble2 17,081 Posts
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jeff34270
10-26-2021 at 10:07 AM.
10-26-2021 at 10:07 AM.
Depending on the orientation of your socket's square drive to it's hex* opening, with a regular breaker bar you can sometimes rotate the socket on the drive to get a different angle of attack for those tight situations. You might even want to try different sockets, as the orientation of the ends may be also be different.

If you have a ratcheting breaker bar like this, you won't have to mess around with that - though it does add some bulk to the end and, even though a 36 point ratchet should be pretty robust, it adds a potential failure point.


(*Please disregard if you are using 12-point sockets.)
>
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> bubble2 1,822 Posts
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johndoe35
10-26-2021 at 10:09 AM.
10-26-2021 at 10:09 AM.
Quote from PowerfulSardine544 :
just did a brake job with very limited space for my beaker bar -impact was not even close to being able to fit, it got the job done, but would have been nice to have the ratchet feature. Nothing wrong with having one of each.
I'm sure you can fit a wrench in there and use a K tools wrench extension. Am I right?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E...0mBI&t=53s
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Joined Jul 2006
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> bubble2 1,822 Posts
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johndoe35
10-26-2021 at 10:12 AM.
10-26-2021 at 10:12 AM.
Get a standard breaker bar without a ratchet. Then add this adapter if you need to:
https://www.amazon.com/ARES-36005...0822&psc=1
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> bubble2 288 Posts
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springchicken
10-26-2021 at 10:27 AM.
10-26-2021 at 10:27 AM.
It showed oos online but my local Home Depot had a bunch in stock for $24.97, so got one. Thanks op
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jeff34270
10-26-2021 at 10:27 AM.
10-26-2021 at 10:27 AM.
Quote from johndoe35 :
I'm sure you can fit a wrench in there and use a K tools wrench extension. Am I right?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E...0mBI&t=53s [youtube.com]
Don't try this at home, but you can "extend" a combination wrench to get more torque by interlocking another one into the open end. Like this:
Click image for larger version Name: c0e39c62c7793dfe3bed5f3a09261d920c9ba381.jpeg Views: 51 Size: 30.8 KB ID: 10718050
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> bubble2 1,822 Posts
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johndoe35
10-26-2021 at 10:30 AM.
10-26-2021 at 10:30 AM.
Quote from jeff34270 :
Don't try this at home, but you can "extend" a combination wrench to get more torque by interlocking another one into the open end. Like this:
Attachment 10718050
I tried this all the time but I don't want to damage my expensive wrenches. LOL
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jeff34270
10-26-2021 at 10:32 AM.
10-26-2021 at 10:32 AM.
Quote from johndoe35 :
I tried this all the time but I don't want to damage my expensive wrenches. LOL
Ironically, it's the expensive wrenches that probably won't get damaged when trying it.

Edit: I only do this on bolts that either need just a bit more leverage than I can easily get with a single wrench or to move my knuckles further away from other obstacles. I look for another option if the bolt is well seized.
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Last edited by jeff34270 October 26, 2021 at 10:41 AM.
Joined Mar 2016
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Gimju84
10-26-2021 at 10:52 AM.
10-26-2021 at 10:52 AM.
Quote from brian17834 :
You only need to turn a breaker bar 1/4 to 1/2 turn to break a bolt or nut free. After that, you use either a power tool or ratchet the rest of the way. To me, the ratcheting function is not needed and looks like it may be the weak point of the tool. I would prefer a breaker bar with as few moving parts as possible, so you could apply maximum torque to what you are removing. If you are pulling as hard as you can and the ratcheting mechanism fails, you may get injured.
This was my immediate thought when I read the title. I first thought, how the hell would actually use the ratchet. That's 10x more effort once the bolt is broke free, and then I thought of the ratchet head failing and breaking your nose instead of the bolt.
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fyu
10-26-2021 at 11:03 AM.
10-26-2021 at 11:03 AM.
Quote from jeff34270 :
Depending on the orientation of your socket's square drive to it's hex* opening, with a regular breaker bar you can sometimes rotate the socket on the drive to get a different angle of attack for those tight situations. You might even want to try different sockets, as the orientation of the ends may be also be different.

If you have a ratcheting breaker bar like this, you won't have to mess around with that - though it does add some bulk to the end and, even though a 36 point ratchet should be pretty robust, it adds a potential failure point.


(*Please disregard if you are using 12-point sockets.)
12 point socket with breaker bar sounds like a bad time
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fyu
10-26-2021 at 11:04 AM.
10-26-2021 at 11:04 AM.
Quote from PowerfulSardine544 :
just did a brake job with very limited space for my beaker bar -impact was not even close to being able to fit, it got the job done, but would have been nice to have the ratchet feature. Nothing wrong with having one of each.
Wobble extensions are nice. Not for every situation but helped me out on a brake job.
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