Our research indicates that at the time of this post, that Creality CR-10 Smart 3D Printer is $180 lower (~37.6% savings) than the next best available price from a reputable merchant with prices starting from $479.
This collaborative space allows users to contribute additional information, tips, and insights to enhance the original deal post. Feel free to share your knowledge and help fellow shoppers make informed decisions.
Our research indicates that at the time of this post, that Creality CR-10 Smart 3D Printer is $180 lower (~37.6% savings) than the next best available price from a reputable merchant with prices starting from $479.
People saying CR-10s are bad printers have no idea what they're talking about or are Prusa shills. You'll get great print quality from a CR-10 out of the box.
Prusas are very expensive for hobbyists and aren't free from problems. Look up 3d printing forums. You'll see that, yes most prusas are good, but you'll also read about CR-10s reputation for good quality. Plus if you get the lower tier Prusa $800 model, you'll spend 8-12 hrs assembling it. CR-10 takes maybe 20 minutes. Not to mention the comparably tiny build volume of the Prusa compared to this.
If you don't have for tinkering? Then 3d printing won't be for you! You WILL spend countless hours printing, watching that print fail, looking up WHY the print failed, fixing YOUR mistake, resetting printer, start printing and wait until it almost finish for it to FAIL AGAIN. The repeat until you have THAT model 100% done.
Then you THINK you have all the knowledge you need to print everything from here on out pefectly, you WILL BE WRONG about that. i've been FDM printing for 7 years. I've had 3 printers in that time and i just got into MSLA (resin) printing and i'm STILL tinkerin and failing with prints.
it's a constant learning process. The curve keeps on going.
This is a bit off-topic, but I thought I'd post it since I figured it might be of interest to some here. I was in Walmart the other day and saw that they had a bunch of weed-whacker trimmer line on sale for 75% off, which is pretty common every fall. I don't have a 3D printer, but have kicked around getting one and it made me wonder if the trimmer line could be used as filament for printing. After Googling, I realized that someone had already researched the idea pretty thoroughly and documented it all. Obviously, it wouldn't be for everything, but could be useful here and there for some projects. Here's the video that discusses it ā¦
People saying CR-10s are bad printers have no idea what they're talking about or are Prusa shills. You'll get great print quality from a CR-10 out of the box.
Prusas are very expensive for hobbyists and aren't free from problems. Look up 3d printing forums. You'll see that, yes most prusas are good, but you'll also read about CR-10s reputation for good quality. Plus if you get the lower tier Prusa $800 model, you'll spend 8-12 hrs assembling it. CR-10 takes maybe 20 minutes. Not to mention the comparably tiny build volume of the Prusa compared to this.
Prusa MK3 is out of the box flawless printing, and the build volume is good for 99% of people. I use the MK3 for most prints, and go to the heavily modded CR10S pro V2 when i need the extra volume. The quality and support from Prusa is unparalleled, and no, I'm not a shill, just a hobbyist. This does seem like a good deal, just swap the screen and update the firmware to one that isn't a fire hazard.
I can't say anything about this printer, but I can say that I have a much cheaper Wanhao i3 and although I've had to tinker with it a lot, I don't regret getting it instead of a Prusa or something. After upgrading to an all-metal hot end, a glass bed, and a few stabilizing rods, I get plenty of great prints from the thing and very, very rarely have to fuss with it unless I'm printing with a difficult material. People talk crap about the less expensive ones, but if I can save $500 with a bit of tinkering/parts printing, I'm happy to do it.
That said, I'm looking to maybe upgrade to this. Autoleveling sounds nice and I've been held back by the low build area of the Wanhao a few times.
Last edited by coheedcollapse October 30, 2021 at 10:41 PM.
I've been 3D printing for over 4 years. 1st with an Anet A8 that took me an entire weekend to put together. I learned a ton with that printer, and it prints very well. My 2nd printer was an Ender 3. It's a good little printer, but it had the same problem as my Anet A8. Too small of a build volume. I always felt constrained by both.
About 3 months ago I got a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 for $309.00 from NewEgg. It has a 310mm x 320mm x 400mm build volume, BL Touch leveling, run-out sensor, silent steppers, dual z-screws, etc. It also prints the best out of my 3 printers. Far better. The print quality is amazing. But don't take my word for it, listen to what Michael @ Teaching Tech has to say about why he keeps going back to this printer, even with its minor foibles that are easily fixed. (Note: His is not the V2): https://youtu.be/iw5HfHxlnwI
The V2 does not need all these mods. The most expensive mod I did not do is the WhamBam system. I went with the much less expensive and just as effective CH10/FR4 epoxy board: https://youtu.be/g0PK4oXbJT8
There's nothing wrong with buying a Prusa printer, if you have the budget for it. But there's also nothing wrong with buying a Creality printer, if that's more your price range. The most important thing is to lay out your budget and printing goals and make a buying decision based on those criteria.
Remember, you can always print small on a big printer, but you cannot print big on a small printer.
Last edited by VegasGuy89183 October 30, 2021 at 11:42 PM.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank GodBlessTexas
Quote
from omalika
:
TL;DR get the Ender 3 v2 as a first for tinkering. Get the Prusa Mk3s/Mini+ as a first to just crank out part after part without tinkering.
āā
I'm gonna recommend that you stay away from the Creality printers and go for a Prusa instead. These printers are great for learning how to tinker with the machines - tweaking gcode, printing upgrades, installing new ends, etc. but if you need a workhorse that can just crank out part after part, you want something else.
Most FDM printers are capable of similar quality, the real challenge is getting to that quality and maintaining it. The Ender 3 is so popular because it can be tweaked to match machines that cost more than an order of magnitude more. But parts will break. Prints will fail. Upgrades will seem like downgrades. Great for learning, not great for production.
I know this is not the Ender 3, but I would argue that most Creality printers need more tinkering and certainly more maintenance to keep up with a Prusa.
A Prusa is $1000, unless you get the kit version for $750. Those kits are TERRIBLE first printers.
The Ender 3 V2 is a good printer, depending on which mainboard you get. I got a post-10/2020 4.2.2 in both of mine, and those have faulty stepper drivers resulting in degrading prints as a print goes into the second or third hour and beyond. I just upgraded to a 4.2.7 board in one of them tonight, and so far so good.
But the best newbie printer is a Voxelab Aquila (Ender 3 V2 clone) for $159 compared to the E3V2's $279; I got both mine for $249 and $239, and the Aquila is a comparable machine that actuallyprints better out of the box.
Pros
- Good print quality
- Can print Flexibles
- Easy to Assemble
- pre-configured slicer is accurate with decent profiles
- glass bed easily releases prints once cooled
Cons
- can't work with Raspberry Pi due to the Creality box interface
- smart features like auto Bed leveling and Wi-Fi don't work right
- fans are not quiet as advertised
- lots of stringing possibly due to pid tune not being correct out of the box
All in all for a first time printer I'd say $300 isn't too bad for this volume, but you could probably do better since this model has some weird smart features included that aren't very easy to work around.
Deal is Slick but not for me š
3
Like
Helpful
Funny
Not helpful
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I bought an Ender 3 Pro and then later a Prusa Mini+. If you value your time at more than like $5-10 an hour, the Prusa Mini+ is a better buy hands down.
I think the Prusa Mini+ is by far the best beginner printer out there. If you value you time, trust me, you are getting what you pay for.
There is some disdain in this thread for PRUSA so I'll offer a similar opinion. I bought a Prusa MK3S (~$800) and then an Ender3 Pro (<$200) months later. Ender3 is now relegated to ABS low res prototypes and this is after a few upgrades. Creality is really good at "race to the bottom" printers. They are relatively underpriced for what you get.
The opinion above is spot on. This isn't an impulse buy b/c if you have a bad experience, you'll reject the entire hobby, probably forever. Buy once, cry once.
Quote
:
A Prusa is $1000, unless you get the kit version for $750. Those kits are TERRIBLE first printers.
This is good advice. If you are mechanically and technically adept, the kit helps you understand how it works and later teardowns and upgrades make sense. For most though, an assembled kit is the way to go. That said, if you go creality, you'll have be adept to solve the problems that invariably come with the cheaper printer.
Last edited by jumblies October 31, 2021 at 02:08 AM.
Glass bed and sugar water and you'll never have bed adhesion issues again. If you're having layer adhesion issues you have your nozzle temps wrong. Been using a Ender 3 to great effect for 2 years. My prints consistently come out more reliably and with greater detail than my friends with prusas.
I had heard masking tape and glue sticks too, which makes my point for me. I spent hours and hours trying to find the right temps, printing temp towers and tuning, and it made very little difference.
The Mini+ I just fired up and it started printing, no adhesion issues, I can print a full bed and it sticks edge to edge with no tape, glue, or ant-bait.
The only argument for a CR-10 is that you can't get that build volume for the price anywhere else. I have a friend with a CR-10s and he had immediate problems. He finally got it printing well after going through about $200 in parts and being down for months until he had time to make the repairs.
Yes, you can tune up a Creality and get results, but I think SDers need to get out of the habit of recommending Creality for beginners. You know a really badass learning path? Get a Prusa Mini+, build an enclosure for it maybe, then do your own Voron 2.4 build while printing parts with the Mini. I might do the Voron but I also might do the Prusa XL when it's finally released.
I wouldn't recommend a Creality to anyone unless they had excess time and a DESIRE to tinker. I got my Ender 3 Pro in the $100 Microcenter deal, and I wish I had passed on it. I at least planned to ditch it when it got to frustrating, and it was easy to stop wasting time on it when I got to masking tape and glue sticks to fix adhesion because the glass bed I installed, which many said would fix it, actually made it worse. You will find 3 or 4 different solutions suggested for a problem, and that tells me I'm going to be wasting time.
I am running the Ender 3 Pro from the Microcenter deal and producing great prints. Can't speak for the 10 but I am impressed with the creality I have. Take your time with assembly and follow a YouTube video rather then use their instructions. Even if you need a few upgrades they are very reasonable in cost and still keep you way under Prusa cost.
I just bought an ender 3 v2 for $249 as an early bday present š for myself. Its still in the box. Im new to 3d printing. When considering aspects such as durability, ease of use, print quality.... Would paying an extra $50 for this one be recommended?
I just bought an ender 3 v2 for $249 as an early bday present š for myself. Its still in the box. Im new to 3d printing. When considering aspects such as durability, ease of use, print quality.... Would paying an extra $50 for this one be recommended?
If you can return the 3v2 then do it. You will want to print something too large for the 3 soon and be looking for an upgrade anyway.
Yes. My first printer was the ender 3 and it works great. Gotta understand there is a learning curve to 3d printing in general, but there's tons of help on forums and YouTube to get you through any problem.
This is a good printer, just remember, learn how to level your machine manually. Tight belts and a rigid machine make all the difference in the world. To all the prusa comments, it should be better, this is 299$. I use a 175$ printer, no auto leveling, no runout sensor, and it works for my needs.
There are no manual leveling knobs on this printer.
2
Like
Helpful
Funny
Not helpful
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Leave a Comment
Top Comments
Prusas are very expensive for hobbyists and aren't free from problems. Look up 3d printing forums. You'll see that, yes most prusas are good, but you'll also read about CR-10s reputation for good quality. Plus if you get the lower tier Prusa $800 model, you'll spend 8-12 hrs assembling it. CR-10 takes maybe 20 minutes. Not to mention the comparably tiny build volume of the Prusa compared to this.
Then you THINK you have all the knowledge you need to print everything from here on out pefectly, you WILL BE WRONG about that. i've been FDM printing for 7 years. I've had 3 printers in that time and i just got into MSLA (resin) printing and i'm STILL tinkerin and failing with prints.
it's a constant learning process. The curve keeps on going.
72 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
https://www.cnckitchen.
Prusas are very expensive for hobbyists and aren't free from problems. Look up 3d printing forums. You'll see that, yes most prusas are good, but you'll also read about CR-10s reputation for good quality. Plus if you get the lower tier Prusa $800 model, you'll spend 8-12 hrs assembling it. CR-10 takes maybe 20 minutes. Not to mention the comparably tiny build volume of the Prusa compared to this.
That said, I'm looking to maybe upgrade to this. Autoleveling sounds nice and I've been held back by the low build area of the Wanhao a few times.
About 3 months ago I got a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 for $309.00 from NewEgg. It has a 310mm x 320mm x 400mm build volume, BL Touch leveling, run-out sensor, silent steppers, dual z-screws, etc. It also prints the best out of my 3 printers. Far better. The print quality is amazing. But don't take my word for it, listen to what Michael @ Teaching Tech has to say about why he keeps going back to this printer, even with its minor foibles that are easily fixed. (Note: His is not the V2): https://youtu.be/iw5HfHxlnwI
The V2 does not need all these mods. The most expensive mod I did not do is the WhamBam system. I went with the much less expensive and just as effective CH10/FR4 epoxy board: https://youtu.be/g0PK4oXbJT8
There's nothing wrong with buying a Prusa printer, if you have the budget for it. But there's also nothing wrong with buying a Creality printer, if that's more your price range. The most important thing is to lay out your budget and printing goals and make a buying decision based on those criteria.
Remember, you can always print small on a big printer, but you cannot print big on a small printer.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank GodBlessTexas
āā
I'm gonna recommend that you stay away from the Creality printers and go for a Prusa instead. These printers are great for learning how to tinker with the machines - tweaking gcode, printing upgrades, installing new ends, etc. but if you need a workhorse that can just crank out part after part, you want something else.
Most FDM printers are capable of similar quality, the real challenge is getting to that quality and maintaining it. The Ender 3 is so popular because it can be tweaked to match machines that cost more than an order of magnitude more. But parts will break. Prints will fail. Upgrades will seem like downgrades. Great for learning, not great for production.
I know this is not the Ender 3, but I would argue that most Creality printers need more tinkering and certainly more maintenance to keep up with a Prusa.
The Ender 3 V2 is a good printer, depending on which mainboard you get. I got a post-10/2020 4.2.2 in both of mine, and those have faulty stepper drivers resulting in degrading prints as a print goes into the second or third hour and beyond. I just upgraded to a 4.2.7 board in one of them tonight, and so far so good.
But the best newbie printer is a Voxelab Aquila (Ender 3 V2 clone) for $159 compared to the E3V2's $279; I got both mine for $249 and $239, and the Aquila is a comparable machine that actuallyprints better out of the box.
https://youtu.be/ccPqyqJlOLc
TLDW
Pros
- Good print quality
- Can print Flexibles
- Easy to Assemble
- pre-configured slicer is accurate with decent profiles
- glass bed easily releases prints once cooled
Cons
- can't work with Raspberry Pi due to the Creality box interface
- smart features like auto Bed leveling and Wi-Fi don't work right
- fans are not quiet as advertised
- lots of stringing possibly due to pid tune not being correct out of the box
All in all for a first time printer I'd say $300 isn't too bad for this volume, but you could probably do better since this model has some weird smart features included that aren't very easy to work around.
Deal is Slick but not for me š
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I think the Prusa Mini+ is by far the best beginner printer out there. If you value you time, trust me, you are getting what you pay for.
The opinion above is spot on. This isn't an impulse buy b/c if you have a bad experience, you'll reject the entire hobby, probably forever. Buy once, cry once.
The Mini+ I just fired up and it started printing, no adhesion issues, I can print a full bed and it sticks edge to edge with no tape, glue, or ant-bait.
The only argument for a CR-10 is that you can't get that build volume for the price anywhere else. I have a friend with a CR-10s and he had immediate problems. He finally got it printing well after going through about $200 in parts and being down for months until he had time to make the repairs.
Yes, you can tune up a Creality and get results, but I think SDers need to get out of the habit of recommending Creality for beginners. You know a really badass learning path? Get a Prusa Mini+, build an enclosure for it maybe, then do your own Voron 2.4 build while printing parts with the Mini. I might do the Voron but I also might do the Prusa XL when it's finally released.
I wouldn't recommend a Creality to anyone unless they had excess time and a DESIRE to tinker. I got my Ender 3 Pro in the $100 Microcenter deal, and I wish I had passed on it. I at least planned to ditch it when it got to frustrating, and it was easy to stop wasting time on it when I got to masking tape and glue sticks to fix adhesion because the glass bed I installed, which many said would fix it, actually made it worse. You will find 3 or 4 different solutions suggested for a problem, and that tells me I'm going to be wasting time.
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Leave a Comment