Rated 4.4 stars out of 5 overall based on 1,700+ reviews on Amazon
Rip, crosscut, and make angled cuts up to 50" long in plywood, MDF, and panels
About this store:
Amazon return policy: For the 2021 holiday season, returnable items purchased between October 1 and December 31 can be returned until January 31, 2022
Rockler return policy: If for any reason you are not satisfied with the merchandise you ordered, just return it within 90 days to receive a refund in the manner of original payment for merchandise only.
This collaborative space allows users to contribute additional information, tips, and insights to enhance the original deal post. Feel free to share your knowledge and help fellow shoppers make informed decisions.
Rated 4.4 stars out of 5 overall based on 1,700+ reviews on Amazon
Rip, crosscut, and make angled cuts up to 50" long in plywood, MDF, and panels
About this store:
Amazon return policy: For the 2021 holiday season, returnable items purchased between October 1 and December 31 can be returned until January 31, 2022
Rockler return policy: If for any reason you are not satisfied with the merchandise you ordered, just return it within 90 days to receive a refund in the manner of original payment for merchandise only.
Model: Kreg Accu-Cut Aluminum 50 in. L Saw Guide Blue/Silver 1 pc
Deal History
Deal History includes data from multiple reputable stores, such as Best Buy, Target, and Walmart. The lowest price among stores for a given day is selected as the "Sale Price".
Sale Price does not include sale prices at Amazon unless a deal was posted by a community member.
I recall Tommy Silva on TOH showing how to make your own straight edge with two glued pieces of plywood, so one side is for left side guide and the other for right side guide of your saw. I think it's on TOH YouTube.
I broke down and bought one of these a couple years ago when I decided to make a couple cabinets for my house. I'll admit I'm not a cabinet maker, but I'm not someone that accepts shitty work on their home either (and custom cabinets = $$$$$$). I'm also an engineer FWIW.
I knew making long crosscuts in the plywood (the skeleton of the cabinet basically) would be difficult without some sort of guide, so I bought this, knowing that while I needed good cuts, I didn't want to spend multiples $$$ to get a "better" saw combo (true track saw).
If you pay attention to the setup, it goes a long way to making this true - like using a straight edge to align the tracks and not just end-butting the pieces of aluminum together and assuming it's square (hint: it won't be). Also, I don't take them apart now that they are true - the setup doesn't take up that much more space this way.
Second, get a good saw - not a HF special. I actually bought a few items specifically for the cabinet projects - this track, a good circular saw, and an RO sander.
Lastly, I made all my cuts on the floor using a couple pieces of 2" EPS (foam board) as a support. MAN that makes it all SO MUCH easier without worrying about supporting workpieces or farking up the blade. Also, the bottom of this track is rubber, so while it doesn't tend to move, I blew off the workpiece and the bottom of the track on every cut (sawdust) as well as put some weight on the track when I had it lined up. If I were making more cabinets or other projects I might invest in some clamps.
Will this replace a real track saw? No, but it doesn't cost as much as a real track saw either, and I'd say the quality of cut is identical.
The largest benefit is speed. There is less setup between cuts. You don't have to figure out your offset line when lining up the edge clamp. Once you got it all dialed in, you just line up the rail with where you want the cut and go. You will want to keep the circular saw in the jig to avoid recalibration. There is a sacrificial piece of plastic that gets cut into when you do the setup. The rail is held in place by friction with rubbery pads vs being clamped to the surface. They always stayed in place for me. I mainly used it for cutting sheet goods. I prefer the table saw or miter if possible.
47 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Anyone have this? Is the stability worth it over using an edge clamp and running the saw down that? I'm about to start building 6 dovetail drawers for my pantry and if this will make my life easier I'll bite
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank ruouttaurmind
Quote
from slaveforthewave
:
Anyone have this? Is the stability worth it over using an edge clamp and running the saw down that? I'm about to start building 6 dovetail drawers for my pantry and if this will make my life easier I'll bite
I don't have this, but I definitely see a clamping edge guide as being more flexible in use. The OP saw track is limited to use with a circular saw. Edge guide can be used with circular saw, router, 4" trim saw… just about anything that benefits from a controlled straight line. I even use mine with a handheld planer to control overlap and wander.
Plus, a decent edge guide is substantially less costly and some models can be expanded up to about 8 feet.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank hjohn06
Quote
from slaveforthewave
:
Anyone have this? Is the stability worth it over using an edge clamp and running the saw down that? I'm about to start building 6 dovetail drawers for my pantry and if this will make my life easier I'll bite
The largest benefit is speed. There is less setup between cuts. You don't have to figure out your offset line when lining up the edge clamp. Once you got it all dialed in, you just line up the rail with where you want the cut and go. You will want to keep the circular saw in the jig to avoid recalibration. There is a sacrificial piece of plastic that gets cut into when you do the setup. The rail is held in place by friction with rubbery pads vs being clamped to the surface. They always stayed in place for me. I mainly used it for cutting sheet goods. I prefer the table saw or miter if possible.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank kevinr5957
Quote
from slaveforthewave
:
Anyone have this? Is the stability worth it over using an edge clamp and running the saw down that? I'm about to start building 6 dovetail drawers for my pantry and if this will make my life easier I'll bite
I have one. and would say no. Clamp edge does the same thing and dosent require you to modify your saw.
I have one. and would say no. Clamp edge does the same thing and dosent require you to modify your saw.
To each his own. I have two circular saws so I keep one in the jig for this and the other I use for miscellaneous stuff. For me this made things a lot easier to make long cuts when I did my porch overhang. I'm happy with my purchase.
I have this and the big thing is speed, all you have to do is mark your two reference lines and line up your track and cut BUT it's a pain if you only have one circular saw and have to take it on and off all the time it gets kind of annoying but worth the money in my opinion
I used a straight edge from HD to rip a full sheet. The straight edge was 2 4' pieces joined in the middle. The join inevitably bends a little and it caused a 1/8th inch variance in width across the ripped good. Not terribly important for what I was making but may not be helpful to you.
From what I have heard, the best straight edge is a factory edge on 3/4th plywood. However, this does take away the calculation you have to do with any straight edge. It'll cut where the edge is.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank psxzombie
Quote
from thepacifist20
:
I used a straight edge from HD to rip a full sheet. The straight edge was 2 4' pieces joined in the middle. The join inevitably bends a little and it caused a 1/8th inch variance in width across the ripped good. Not terribly important for what I was making but may not be helpful to you.
From what I have heard, the best straight edge is a factory edge on 3/4th plywood. However, this does take away the calculation you have to do with any straight edge. It'll cut where the edge is.
I recall Tommy Silva on TOH showing how to make your own straight edge with two glued pieces of plywood, so one side is for left side guide and the other for right side guide of your saw. I think it's on TOH YouTube.
I recall Tommy Silva on TOH showing how to make your own straight edge with two glued pieces of plywood, so one side is for left side guide and the other for right side guide of your saw. I think it's on TOH YouTube.
I made a straight edge jig like that for my circle saw since I dont have room for a table saw and even decked it out with routed handholds lol. Works perfectly.
Like
Helpful
Funny
Not helpful
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
I was given this as a gift. Maybe I'm just dumb, but after an hour of configuring it and following instructions, I just grabbed 2 clamps and made my own. Still sitting in the corner if I'm ever bored.
Leave a Comment
Top Comments
Updated: Found it, you lucky dogs...
https://youtu.be/qIeIZdrbz-Y
Add a rubber backing and you are golden...
I knew making long crosscuts in the plywood (the skeleton of the cabinet basically) would be difficult without some sort of guide, so I bought this, knowing that while I needed good cuts, I didn't want to spend multiples $$$ to get a "better" saw combo (true track saw).
If you pay attention to the setup, it goes a long way to making this true - like using a straight edge to align the tracks and not just end-butting the pieces of aluminum together and assuming it's square (hint: it won't be). Also, I don't take them apart now that they are true - the setup doesn't take up that much more space this way.
Second, get a good saw - not a HF special. I actually bought a few items specifically for the cabinet projects - this track, a good circular saw, and an RO sander.
Lastly, I made all my cuts on the floor using a couple pieces of 2" EPS (foam board) as a support. MAN that makes it all SO MUCH easier without worrying about supporting workpieces or farking up the blade. Also, the bottom of this track is rubber, so while it doesn't tend to move, I blew off the workpiece and the bottom of the track on every cut (sawdust) as well as put some weight on the track when I had it lined up. If I were making more cabinets or other projects I might invest in some clamps.
Will this replace a real track saw? No, but it doesn't cost as much as a real track saw either, and I'd say the quality of cut is identical.
47 Comments
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Circular Saw Track (Circular Saw Track) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PGP...0AVDZ
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank ruouttaurmind
Plus, a decent edge guide is substantially less costly and some models can be expanded up to about 8 feet.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank hjohn06
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank kevinr5957
From what I have heard, the best straight edge is a factory edge on 3/4th plywood. However, this does take away the calculation you have to do with any straight edge. It'll cut where the edge is.
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank psxzombie
From what I have heard, the best straight edge is a factory edge on 3/4th plywood. However, this does take away the calculation you have to do with any straight edge. It'll cut where the edge is.
Updated: Found it, you lucky dogs...
https://youtu.be/qIeIZdrbz-Y
Add a rubber backing and you are golden...
Updated: Found it, you lucky dogs...
https://youtu.be/qIeIZdrbz-Y
Add a rubber backing and you are golden...
https://youtu.be/tS2NH457T7k
Sign up for a Slickdeals account to remove this ad.
Leave a Comment