Everbilt High-Performance Cooler (Gray): 52-Quart $79.50, 36-Quart Expired

The highly insulated coolers (rotomolded or the quality injection molded coolers) have a lot more mass to chill or heat. Consequently, they don't perform especially well in many use scenarios:

If you just chuck warm beverages and ice into the cooler for today's bbq, the ice is going to take out the heat energy from your drinks and quickly turn to cool water. Nothing is going to appear to perform well. And if your goal is to chill drinks for only a few hours, you might as well get the cheapest, non insulated cooler of the right size.

If you're using the cooler for the weekend, something semi-decent like a Coleman Extreme is plenty good enough. There isn't an especially large amount of cooler mass to chill.
Relatively low demand for space and chill time means you can be lazy and throw warm and cold things together with plenty of ice and still make it through the weekend. You're basically buying some convenience by using more (really cheap) ice.

Premium ice chests shine when you are using them long term, think 5+ days. You want to pull the cooler out of warm places and let them cool off for a day or so. You should pre-charge them by filling them half full with ice 1-2 days in advance to get as much heat as possible out of the cooler. Then you want to pack it no more than 1/2 full of frozen or cold consumables and then get every ice cube you can get in there. Maybe throw a pound or two of dry ice in there if appropriate. Things that encourage frequent opening of the cooler, like beers and water, should go into a separate cooler. If you do all this and keep the sunshine off your cooler you will approach the ice retaining claims manufacturers put on their coolers.