expiredBrianS13 posted May 07, 2022 09:01 PM
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expiredBrianS13 posted May 07, 2022 09:01 PM
1-Gallon Fritz Aquatics FritzZyme 7 Nitrifying Bacteria for Fresh Water Aquariums
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Chlorine and nitrates in drinking water for humans and pets sounds like a bigger problem than just fish tanks. Perhaps for fish, it would be better to use well water that has not gone through a water softener, or perhaps even oxygenated water that has went through a Reverse Osmosis system as bottled drinking water does?
From the reviews, this product sounds like hit and miss.
Chlorine and nitrates in drinking water for humans and pets sounds like a bigger problem than just fish tanks. Perhaps for fish, it would be better to use well water that has not gone through a water softener, or perhaps even oxygenated water that has went through a Reverse Osmosis system as bottled drinking water does?
From the reviews, this product sounds like hit and miss.
Sponge- cheap, easy to maintain, eyesore. I'm a fan of the aquarium coop sponge filters
Hang on back- noisy, cheapish, customizable media, not too hard to maintain. I'd go with an aquaclear brand they are tried and true. There are also seachem tidals, but I'm not the biggest fan of the media box, and the bright blue flow dials
Canister- adds some water volume, lots of media options to customize, quiet, harder to maintain. Canisters are tricky. I've used sicce whales, penn-plaxx, fluval 407s and fx6s. I got the whale because I needed a very small filter to run an inline co2 diffuser, i'm not too big of a fan of the clamps. Penn plax ran on my 29 gallon for a couple years, no issues. currently have a fluval 307 with spray bar on there now. Only downside to fluval canisters are the hoses, I'm not a fan of the plastic ribbed hoses they use.
Lights thats a different ball game, 29 gallon tanks are tall, so if you are attempting a carpet (which is hard in of it self without co2) its going to be much harder. Also, it depends on what plants you have in your tank. If you have mainly crypts, anubias java ferns, most mosses, dwarf sag or even buce. basically any light will work as those plants are slow growing and very undemanding with lighting. If you're going with stems, red plants, or anything higher light, I'd look into some more plant specific lights. I had a finnex HLC on my planted 29 with no issues, currently I am running a plant 3.0 on the tank, it has more features, and my plants are "reaching" for the light less, but I don't see much difference, but the app control is nice. I will say I have a Chihiros WRGB II on my high tech 10 gallon, and that light makes everything look amazing, but the app is total trash.
Just know with any planted tank, its all about balance with light type and duration, what ferts and dosages, and co2. If you change one drastically (such as getting a new light) you will have to make adjustments to the others. Algae will always be creeping somewhere, and its really about maintaining and controlling it vs total eradication, because you will lose your mind trying to do that.
Sorry for the long post, hope it helps.
Chlorine and nitrates in drinking water for humans and pets sounds like a bigger problem than just fish tanks. Perhaps for fish, it would be better to use well water that has not gone through a water softener, or perhaps even oxygenated water that has went through a Reverse Osmosis system as bottled drinking water does?
From the reviews, this product sounds like hit and miss.
A friend raises exotic types of fish and guess I should pay more attention. He was 'jump starting' by adding ammonia to a new tank with media from another tank's filter and said it worked because he was also using well water that is absent of chlorine.
It made some sense, as when city water adds chlorine as an anti-bacterial to then react with ammonia that is from agriculture runoff already in the water, or from fish by products, etc., it produces chloramines (that on a larger scale are effectively WMD's).
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For certain, there are pH specifics for different types of fish. There are volumes written on the subject, but most common freshwater fish do fine in 7.0, and although sodium chloride (salt) is neutral at 7.0, most saltwater fish require 8.0 or a little higher. Obviously, most have to adjust the pH for the specific fish raised, whereas you are happy with the pH of your tap water for what you are raising.
Pure water is 7.0 on the pH scale, so depending on what is suspended in it, RO filtering could raise or lower the test sample's pH level. Since RO filtering typically results in very close to 7.0, but absent of most everything else but H20, it will raise or lower the pH level of the sample that gives a clue that it is working effectively.
With your tap water being at 7.8 pH, it is almost like your pulling it from a limestone cistern that is common throughout the Missouri area. At least you should be getting plenty of minerals.
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Sponge- cheap, easy to maintain, eyesore. I'm a fan of the aquarium coop sponge filters
Hang on back- noisy, cheapish, customizable media, not too hard to maintain. I'd go with an aquaclear brand they are tried and true. There are also seachem tidals, but I'm not the biggest fan of the media box, and the bright blue flow dials
Canister- adds some water volume, lots of media options to customize, quiet, harder to maintain. Canisters are tricky. I've used sicce whales, penn-plaxx, fluval 407s and fx6s. I got the whale because I needed a very small filter to run an inline co2 diffuser, i'm not too big of a fan of the clamps. Penn plax ran on my 29 gallon for a couple years, no issues. currently have a fluval 307 with spray bar on there now. Only downside to fluval canisters are the hoses, I'm not a fan of the plastic ribbed hoses they use.
Lights thats a different ball game, 29 gallon tanks are tall, so if you are attempting a carpet (which is hard in of it self without co2) its going to be much harder. Also, it depends on what plants you have in your tank. If you have mainly crypts, anubias java ferns, most mosses, dwarf sag or even buce. basically any light will work as those plants are slow growing and very undemanding with lighting. If you're going with stems, red plants, or anything higher light, I'd look into some more plant specific lights. I had a finnex HLC on my planted 29 with no issues, currently I am running a plant 3.0 on the tank, it has more features, and my plants are "reaching" for the light less, but I don't see much difference, but the app control is nice. I will say I have a Chihiros WRGB II on my high tech 10 gallon, and that light makes everything look amazing, but the app is total trash.
Just know with any planted tank, its all about balance with light type and duration, what ferts and dosages, and co2. If you change one drastically (such as getting a new light) you will have to make adjustments to the others. Algae will always be creeping somewhere, and its really about maintaining and controlling it vs total eradication, because you will lose your mind trying to do that.
Sorry for the long post, hope it helps.
Sure it helps.... thanks. We have made a lot of fish tanks in various sizes up to 150 gallon, but besides what tastes best, what I know about raising various types of fish is not yet an amateur.
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