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Never used induction cooktops. This might not be too bad of a $40 investment and a learning experience.
Although, from what I've heard, most of these cooktops actually just cut on and off to try and get near the set temperature rather than more precisely draw only the necessary current. So it would cut on and draw 1800W and then cut off until the desired temperature is met, and then cut back on after a period of time. Then repeat.
Are there any induction cooktops out there that actually pull less current to reach the desired temperature? That would be more ideal in situations where I might run this on an inverter.
Additionally I would prefer to have one that can be flush mounted into a counter-top, but I suppose I could deal with this for $40.
Never used induction cooktops. This might not be too bad of a $40 investment and a learning experience.
Although, from what I've heard, most of these cooktops actually just cut on and off to try and get near the set temperature rather than more precisely draw only the necessary current. So it would cut on and draw 1800W and then cut off until the desired temperature is met, and then cut back on after a period of time. Then repeat.
Are there any induction cooktops out there that actually pull less current to reach the desired temperature? That would be more ideal in situations where I might run this on an inverter.
Additionally I would prefer to have one that can be flush mounted into a counter-top, but I suppose I could deal with this for $40.
Is this a decent cooktop for the price?
.
Although I have not torn down a GE Profile cook top, I have one of these. It is on or off by a thermal fuse and a backward voltage diode (Zener) under the center of the coil that remembers the voltage used for the setting chosen AFTER the first heat cycle. If say, setting on a medium temperature, it does not appear to give it all 1800 watts after the first heat cycle, but perhaps 900 or so. I say 'appear' because it was broken and could not test the initial pulse, but the only reason for that Zener diode to be there.
Meanwhile, the rated 1800 watts at 110v is 16.36 amps on the average 15amp circuit that is pushing it. It is cheap and it is a throwaway when it no longer works. Nevertheless, I thought this was/is better than the dual burner version that if using both, shares the total wattage between the two burners.
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Although, from what I've heard, most of these cooktops actually just cut on and off to try and get near the set temperature rather than more precisely draw only the necessary current. So it would cut on and draw 1800W and then cut off until the desired temperature is met, and then cut back on after a period of time. Then repeat.
Are there any induction cooktops out there that actually pull less current to reach the desired temperature? That would be more ideal in situations where I might run this on an inverter.
Additionally I would prefer to have one that can be flush mounted into a counter-top, but I suppose I could deal with this for $40.
Is this a decent cooktop for the price?
Although, from what I've heard, most of these cooktops actually just cut on and off to try and get near the set temperature rather than more precisely draw only the necessary current. So it would cut on and draw 1800W and then cut off until the desired temperature is met, and then cut back on after a period of time. Then repeat.
Are there any induction cooktops out there that actually pull less current to reach the desired temperature? That would be more ideal in situations where I might run this on an inverter.
Additionally I would prefer to have one that can be flush mounted into a counter-top, but I suppose I could deal with this for $40.
Is this a decent cooktop for the price?
Although I have not torn down a GE Profile cook top, I have one of these. It is on or off by a thermal fuse and a backward voltage diode (Zener) under the center of the coil that remembers the voltage used for the setting chosen AFTER the first heat cycle. If say, setting on a medium temperature, it does not appear to give it all 1800 watts after the first heat cycle, but perhaps 900 or so. I say 'appear' because it was broken and could not test the initial pulse, but the only reason for that Zener diode to be there.
Meanwhile, the rated 1800 watts at 110v is 16.36 amps on the average 15amp circuit that is pushing it. It is cheap and it is a throwaway when it no longer works. Nevertheless, I thought this was/is better than the dual burner version that if using both, shares the total wattage between the two burners.