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65" Sony Bravia XR65A80J OLED 4K UHD Smart Google TV
$1,362
$2,000
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the 4th to last digit on box (but also back of tv, not the serial# but vertical number/letters) identifying WBC or WBE ("EVO") is only true of LG C1. As of C2, this can no longer identify the panel, LG nipped that in the bud.
Yes LG makes the WOLED panels in this A80J, but it is still a Sony TV.
77" A80J is guaranteed WBE like the 77" C1 (again "EVO" because EVO to LG = the processing and panel, although 42" C2 are all WBC right now due to supply or something and marketed evo so its more whatever LG wants it to be), 55 and 65 A80J are a mix.
As far as being able to tell which panel you got, unless you got a colorimeter and read the RGB spectrum, the only laymen way to typically tell is obvious pink tint off axis = usually wbe and more blue off axis = WBC but even then it can be hard to really know because of panel variation.
My advice is dont worry about it, unless you are using it as a desktop monitor with lots of static windows up, even for gaming it shouldn't make a big difference. WBC is tried and true (and made in Paju, SK) whereas WBE is made in Guangzhou, CN. WBE is marginally brighter though most people cannot tell at all without equipment to read brightness measurements, supposed better burn in protection though that may not be an issue anymore and even though theoretically seems to be the case with phosphors it hasn't withstood the test of time to know if really true or marketing, but also comes with often Venetian blind effect and grid in highlights. In theory it comes out of black more competently on average than wbc too but I think panel variation will be more at play.
I would say worry more about panel uniformity than WBC or wbe: tint, banding, vignetting and the aforementioned Venetian blind and gridding.
By the end of the day, both types perform extremely similarly its more down to the lotto itself.
Hope this helps someone.
--
fwiw, if you're hell bent on getting an wbe, more power to you its of no concern to me. I just feel theres lots of wrong info surrounding the matter.
I have a WBC 65" C1 and a WBE 77" A80J and wouldn't dare trade my 65" C1 for another, even WBE, because panel uniformity is excellent and I have nothing to gain (imo) by playing the lotto.
Another way is to go to you tube and look up "100% White Fullscreen". Its an EVO if the image is slightly pink
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the 4th to last digit on box (but also back of tv, not the serial# but vertical number/letters) identifying WBC or WBE ("EVO") is only true of LG C1. As of C2, this can no longer identify the panel, LG nipped that in the bud.
Yes LG makes the WOLED panels in this A80J, but it is still a Sony TV.
77" A80J is guaranteed WBE like the 77" C1 (again "EVO" because EVO to LG = the processing and panel, although 42" C2 are all WBC right now due to supply or something and marketed evo so its more whatever LG wants it to be), 55 and 65 A80J are a mix.
As far as being able to tell which panel you got, unless you got a colorimeter and read the RGB spectrum, the only laymen way to typically tell is obvious pink tint off axis = usually wbe and more blue off axis = WBC but even then it can be hard to really know because of panel variation.
My advice is dont worry about it, unless you are using it as a desktop monitor with lots of static windows up, even for gaming it shouldn't make a big difference. WBC is tried and true (and made in Paju, SK) whereas WBE is made in Guangzhou, CN. WBE is marginally brighter though most people cannot tell at all without equipment to read brightness measurements, supposed better burn in protection though that may not be an issue anymore and even though theoretically seems to be the case with phosphors it hasn't withstood the test of time to know if really true or marketing, but also comes with often Venetian blind effect and grid in highlights. In theory it comes out of black more competently on average than wbc too but I think panel variation will be more at play.
I would say worry more about panel uniformity than WBC or wbe: tint, banding, vignetting and the aforementioned Venetian blind and gridding.
By the end of the day, both types perform extremely similarly its more down to the lotto itself.
Hope this helps someone.
--
fwiw, if you're hell bent on getting an wbe, more power to you its of no concern to me. I just feel theres lots of wrong info surrounding the matter.
I have a WBC 65" C1 and a WBE 77" A80J and wouldn't dare trade my 65" C1 for another, even WBE, because panel uniformity is excellent and I have nothing to gain (imo) by playing the lotto.
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the 4th to last digit on box (but also back of tv, not the serial# but vertical number/letters) identifying WBC or WBE ("EVO") is only true of LG C1. As of C2, serial# can no longer identify, LG nipped that in the bud.
Yes LG makes the WOLED panels in this A80J, but it is still a Sony TV.
77" A80J is guaranteed WBE like the 77" C1 (again "EVO" because EVO to LG = the processing and panel, although 42" C2 are all WBC right now due to supply or something and marketed evo so its more whatever LG wants it to be), 55 and 65 A80J are a mix.
As far as being able to tell which panel you got, unless you got a colorimeter and read the RGB spectrum, the only laymen way to typically tell is obvious pink tint off axis = usually wbe and more blue off axis = WBC but even then it can be hard to really know because of panel variation.
My advice is dont worry about it, unless you are using it as a desktop monitor with lots of static windows up, even for gaming it shouldn't make a big difference. WBC is tried and true (and made in Paju, SK) whereas WBE is made in Guangzhou, CN. WBE is marginally brighter though most people cannot tell at all without equipment to read brightness measurements, supposed better burn in protection though that may not be an issue anymore and even though theoretically seems to be the case with phosphors it hasn't withstood the test of time to know if really true or marketing, but also comes with often Venetian blind effect and grid in highlights.
I would say worry more about panel uniformity than WBC or wbe: tint, banding, vignetting and the aforementioned Venetian blind and gridding.
By the end of the day, both types perform extremely similarly its more down to the lotto itself.
Hope this helps someone.
--
fwiw, if you're hell bent on getting an wbe, more power to you its of no concern to me. I just feel theres lots of wrong info surrounding the matter.
I have a WBC 65" C1 and a WBE 77" A80J and wouldn't dare trade my 65" C1 for another, even WBE, because panel uniformity is excellent and I have nothing to gain (imo) by playing the lotto.
my general advice is just throw a bunch of content at it and see if you see anything in the return policy. minor issues often clear up with break in, but if it looks horrendous out of the box it may not recover.
OLED's struggle with near blacks, so that's where you'll see vignetting and banding the most.
Tint uniformity, look at ads with white backgrounds or sand scenes / sky scenes. Panning often shows vertical banding the most too.
Try to remember to enjoy it
and if you got a pretty dang good one, do not gamble seeking absolute perfection. chances are you'll get one worse.
--
also be aware the 55 and 65" A80J have a "semi-matte" finish (matte-ish). The 77" A80J and ALL C1 (55/65/77) are "semi-glossy" (more on side of glossy).
My personal preference is semi-gloss, because perceived contrast in brighter settings, is lower. in controlled lighting, I think its the same.
Let me rephrase what you mean't: Don't use LG serial numbers for Sony TVs. See? Was it that hard?
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